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Everything posted by sclord2002

  1. Carl, Thank you ! Looking forward to the rally. Charlie Lord
  2. Steve, what do you want for your TSLB and can you check on the shipping cost to 29615 ? I want to see some info on your Kentucky trailer project. Hope you are doing well. You can email me at sclordtwothousandtwo@yahoo.com. Thanks, Charlie Lord
  3. sclord2002

    Air brake issue

    Darryl, don't be so modest.....when you are good, you are good !! Thanks.
  4. sclord2002

    Air brake issue

    Replaced air pressure sensor.....resolved problem. Darryl was right on target. Thanks !! Charlie
  5. I have the parts/pieces to make 30 testers at present. i will go with this number unless I hear that more people want one. Looking forward to thr ECR. Charlie Lord
  6. sclord2002

    battery time

    Too many batteries and TIRES !! Charlie
  7. Al, you are always willing to help....thank you !! Charlie
  8. Desert, my tester does not look anything like the picture you posted. The picture is way nicer and more sophisticated than mine. Mine is just a vehicle-end recepticle with wires dangling from it but it works and is KISS [keep it simple stupid], so that I can operate it. I would love to have one like the picture but wanted one that would be simple, inexpensive, useful and easy to build with rudimentary electrical knowledge. Charlie
  9. Way to go, Dave and Shorty...you solved that problem. I'll have enough parts for some extra "special order" testers. By the way, the ones we build at the ECR WILL have a fuse in the 12 Volt wire. My beta test model didn't have a fuse but he new ones will. I think it will be fun, making them up at the rally. Charlie
  10. AV8R, there is plenty of room....you're in.
  11. It's harder to explain than to make one. They are handy, though.
  12. Lance and Desert, yep...it's pretty straight forward. 1. Purchase the vehicle part of a 7way round, blade trailer connector. 2. cut 4 lengths of 14 or 16 gauge wire, 2 lengths of 14 or 12 gauge wire.[12 to 18 inches??] 3. Label one end of the 14 or 16 gauge wire lengths as follows: TAIL AND RUNNING, LEFT TURN AND BRAKE, RIGHT TURN AND BRAKE, REVERSE LIGHTS/AUX. 4. Label one end of the remaining 14 or 16 gauge wires as BRAKES and the other wire end as 12 VOLTS. 5. LOOK AT THE BACK OF THE VEHICLE CONNECTOR AND ATTACH THE WIRES AS FOLLOWS: ONE O'CLOCK - TAIL AND RUNNING; THREE O'CLOCK - LEFT TURN AND BRAKE; 5 O'CLOCK- DO NOT ATTACH A WIRE TO THIS TERMINAL; 7 O-CLOCK- one of the two larger wires- BRAKES; 9 O'CLOCK- RIGHT TURN AND BRAKE; 11 O'CLOCK; the second larger wire- 12 VOLTS. The center terminal is REVERSE LIGHTS/AUX. 6. attach an alligator clip to the 12 VOLTS wire. 7. Tin or attach a terminal to the other 5 wire ends. P.S.- use an analog clock to figure out the clocking of the terminals...it takes too long to use a digital clock. Having done all this you need to verify your wire labeling and connections to the back of the recepticle. after verification of wiring, plug your trailer pigtail onto your shiny new tool and verify that the proper lights work when you clip the alligator clip to the desired wire. Lastly, be amazed if this contraption actually works. Be aware that the turn signals won't blink, but the filaments/led's will light up, Also know that the brakes will draw a spark when touching the 12 VOLT wire to the BRAKE wire due to the load of the magnets on the circuit [ hence the heavier wires on the 12 VOLT and BRAKE positions]. This dohickey is pretty simple but it can be very convienent as it allows you to check your lights and brake magnets without hooking up to a tow vehicle. It is safe to touch the 12 VOLT clip to any or all of the wires since we don't have a wire going to ground [think big spark/potential fire]. DO NOT ATTACH A WIRE TO THE 5 O'CLOCK [GROUND POSITION] !!!! The brake magnets draw approximately 3 amps per magnet, so if you see it drawing 12 amps on the BRAKE wire, you can figure that all 4 magnets are working. much less amperage would suggest that one or more magnets are not working and higher amperage may suggest partially shorted magnets/ wires. If any wires get too warm, disconnect them. You could add a fuse/circuit breaker to the 12 VOLT wire if it would make you feel better. I hope you will find this tool to be as useful as I have. Please let me know the results you get. GOOD LUCK. Charlie Lord
  13. sclord2002

    Air brake issue

    Al, I have ordered the sensor.
  14. Guys and Gals, Carl asked me about a session at the ECR to make my KISS trailer light testers. I have ordered enough stuff to make 20 at the rally and can order more if more than 20 want to make one. The cost will be $10.00 for the parts and we should be able to discuss them and build them in about 90 minutes. I have used mine many times on mine and many other trailers. The tester is simple, safe and very useful. You can check lights and, if you have a dc clamp-on ammeter, brake wiring and magnets. You can also check electric over hydraulic pump function. All of this can be done without connecting to your tow vehicle, since the tester receives it's power from the trailer battery . If you want to bring your own parts, you can do that but there is some economy of scale in bulk buying of the components. Please let me know if you are interested and I will be happy to bring enough components to build as many as are needed and maybe a few extras. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!! Charlie Lord
  15. sclord2002

    Air brake issue

    Good info, Nigel, Thanks,
  16. sclord2002

    Air brake issue

    While heading home form Charleston,SC, in my 2006 Volvo 780, my front air tank gauge dropped to zero, the warning sounded and the display said low system air pressure. i immediately pulled over and began to ponder the situation. I left the truck running and walked around the truck trying to listen for an air leak....no luck. I looked under the hood and every thing looked ok. I then shut the truck down and listened for leaks...no good, again. I pulled the moisture drain cable on the front and rear tanks and both had pressure and no moisture, The rear tank pressure gauge was normal and cycling normally. I then proceeded to cycle the key off and on to observe the gauge check process. After cycling the key 4 times the front tank air gauge displayed normal pressure and cycled normally as the air governor called for air. I drove off and after about 10 miles, the front tank gauge dropprd to zero just as before, but this time there was not a good shoulder to pull off on, so I nervously continued on, expecting some kind of negative brake action.....nothing occured with the brakes but the alarm is not a good thing to listen to. I pulled into a truck stop and cycled the key several more times and the front air tank gauge started showing some pressure but not as much as the rear tank. I asked a mechanic at the truck stop about it and he said it sounded like a flaky pressure transducer. I continued the remaining 70 miles home with the rear tank gauge normal and the front tank gauge reading about half of that. Time and weather are preventing me from attacking the problem but I can't stop thinking about it. I would be grateful if someone with more air brake knowledge than I have would share their thoughts on this. Thanks in advance. Charlie
  17. sclord2002


    Carl, I can't envision any problems arising from using a 235 as a spare. As long as you have clearance between the tires and the increased ride height of the camper would not be a problem, I would be inclined to use the 235 as a spare. I listened to the conventional wisdom that 215 17.5's were the direct replacement for 235 16's when I ordered 215 17.5's for my Cambridge and found out that they are actually a smaller diameter than 235 16's. If I had done my own research I would have known this and I would have gone with the 235 17.5's. I am really very happy with my 215 Sailuns and they are probably the tire size I need after replacing my axles with 8k Dexter axles that now sit under the springs. My old axles were mounted above the springs so the new axles gave the Cambridge a "lift".
  18. That is a great logo ! The Springfield clan is very creative and talented.
  19. I don't believe the generators sold in Costco are actually Yamaha generators. i have seen gennys at Costco with Yamaha engines but they were not true Yamaha generators. They may still be good generators though. Charlie
  20. sclord2002

    D12d Derate

    I get a check engine message when mine derates due to an EGR fault. It seems to be a 15 to 20 percebt derate. It will show up in your codes. Charlie
  21. sclord2002

    $100,000 part

    Rany, Has Nancy checked to see if the improvements have increased your trade-in value ??
  22. Randy, Isn't this forum great...toss out an idea and get all sorts of insight on it. We don't have to re-invent the wheel with every project and that can save us money, time and grief. Glad that your back is doing well...don't mess it up loading all the Florida gear ! Charlie
  23. sclord2002

    Minor Off Topic

    Paul, I used to ride 2 wheelers, on and off road. I discovered that hobby was not condusive to my good health or longevity. I know that you and Paula enjoyed your bikes but it doesn't make me sad to know that you are selling them. We like you guys too much to see either of you injured, or worse, on your bikes. I know life is not without risk but we can try to mitigate it as best we can. I can't imagine that you would get more enjoyment out of riding than you get out of giving me a hard time. Just double down on harassing me and we both will have a good time. Charlie
  24. sclord2002

    Bed crane anyone?

    I have the Harbor Fright hydraulic 1/2 ton crane that I can install for hoisting stuff on the bed and remove for loading the Smart. I need to add a small winch or a block and tackle to increase the lift range, though. Charlie
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