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About sclord2002

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    greenville sc

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  1. Carl, Thank you ! Looking forward to the rally. Charlie Lord
  2. Steve, what do you want for your TSLB and can you check on the shipping cost to 29615 ? I want to see some info on your Kentucky trailer project. Hope you are doing well. You can email me at sclordtwothousandtwo@yahoo.com. Thanks, Charlie Lord
  3. sclord2002

    Air brake issue

    Darryl, don't be so modest.....when you are good, you are good !! Thanks.
  4. sclord2002

    Air brake issue

    Replaced air pressure sensor.....resolved problem. Darryl was right on target. Thanks !! Charlie
  5. I have the parts/pieces to make 30 testers at present. i will go with this number unless I hear that more people want one. Looking forward to thr ECR. Charlie Lord
  6. sclord2002

    battery time

    Too many batteries and TIRES !! Charlie
  7. Al, you are always willing to help....thank you !! Charlie
  8. Desert, my tester does not look anything like the picture you posted. The picture is way nicer and more sophisticated than mine. Mine is just a vehicle-end recepticle with wires dangling from it but it works and is KISS [keep it simple stupid], so that I can operate it. I would love to have one like the picture but wanted one that would be simple, inexpensive, useful and easy to build with rudimentary electrical knowledge. Charlie
  9. Way to go, Dave and Shorty...you solved that problem. I'll have enough parts for some extra "special order" testers. By the way, the ones we build at the ECR WILL have a fuse in the 12 Volt wire. My beta test model didn't have a fuse but he new ones will. I think it will be fun, making them up at the rally. Charlie
  10. AV8R, there is plenty of room....you're in.
  11. It's harder to explain than to make one. They are handy, though.
  12. Lance and Desert, yep...it's pretty straight forward. 1. Purchase the vehicle part of a 7way round, blade trailer connector. 2. cut 4 lengths of 14 or 16 gauge wire, 2 lengths of 14 or 12 gauge wire.[12 to 18 inches??] 3. Label one end of the 14 or 16 gauge wire lengths as follows: TAIL AND RUNNING, LEFT TURN AND BRAKE, RIGHT TURN AND BRAKE, REVERSE LIGHTS/AUX. 4. Label one end of the remaining 14 or 16 gauge wires as BRAKES and the other wire end as 12 VOLTS. 5. LOOK AT THE BACK OF THE VEHICLE CONNECTOR AND ATTACH THE WIRES AS FOLLOWS: ONE O'CLOCK - TAIL AND RUNNING; THREE O'CLOCK - LEFT TURN AND BRAKE; 5 O'CLOCK- DO NOT ATTACH A WIRE TO THIS TERMINAL; 7 O-CLOCK- one of the two larger wires- BRAKES; 9 O'CLOCK- RIGHT TURN AND BRAKE; 11 O'CLOCK; the second larger wire- 12 VOLTS. The center terminal is REVERSE LIGHTS/AUX. 6. attach an alligator clip to the 12 VOLTS wire. 7. Tin or attach a terminal to the other 5 wire ends. P.S.- use an analog clock to figure out the clocking of the terminals...it takes too long to use a digital clock. Having done all this you need to verify your wire labeling and connections to the back of the recepticle. after verification of wiring, plug your trailer pigtail onto your shiny new tool and verify that the proper lights work when you clip the alligator clip to the desired wire. Lastly, be amazed if this contraption actually works. Be aware that the turn signals won't blink, but the filaments/led's will light up, Also know that the brakes will draw a spark when touching the 12 VOLT wire to the BRAKE wire due to the load of the magnets on the circuit [ hence the heavier wires on the 12 VOLT and BRAKE positions]. This dohickey is pretty simple but it can be very convienent as it allows you to check your lights and brake magnets without hooking up to a tow vehicle. It is safe to touch the 12 VOLT clip to any or all of the wires since we don't have a wire going to ground [think big spark/potential fire]. DO NOT ATTACH A WIRE TO THE 5 O'CLOCK [GROUND POSITION] !!!! The brake magnets draw approximately 3 amps per magnet, so if you see it drawing 12 amps on the BRAKE wire, you can figure that all 4 magnets are working. much less amperage would suggest that one or more magnets are not working and higher amperage may suggest partially shorted magnets/ wires. If any wires get too warm, disconnect them. You could add a fuse/circuit breaker to the 12 VOLT wire if it would make you feel better. I hope you will find this tool to be as useful as I have. Please let me know the results you get. GOOD LUCK. Charlie Lord
  13. sclord2002

    Air brake issue

    Al, I have ordered the sensor.
  14. Guys and Gals, Carl asked me about a session at the ECR to make my KISS trailer light testers. I have ordered enough stuff to make 20 at the rally and can order more if more than 20 want to make one. The cost will be $10.00 for the parts and we should be able to discuss them and build them in about 90 minutes. I have used mine many times on mine and many other trailers. The tester is simple, safe and very useful. You can check lights and, if you have a dc clamp-on ammeter, brake wiring and magnets. You can also check electric over hydraulic pump function. All of this can be done without connecting to your tow vehicle, since the tester receives it's power from the trailer battery . If you want to bring your own parts, you can do that but there is some economy of scale in bulk buying of the components. Please let me know if you are interested and I will be happy to bring enough components to build as many as are needed and maybe a few extras. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!! Charlie Lord
  15. sclord2002

    Air brake issue

    Good info, Nigel, Thanks,
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