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About lockmup68

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  • Birthday 05/20/1969

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    MIddle TN

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  1. The square hole on the short handle is what is hitting the side rail on the trailer saver hitch. I have to bend it up a bit or shorten it about an inch and then it would not hit the side rail. Truck is at the shop getting a wheel seal and airbags right now. When I pick it up I’ll take a pic. That handle would totally work if it would just clear the rail another inch when loaded.
  2. I think the unistrut will work. Just have to “s” bend it up so it will clear the side rail on the trailer saver hitch when loaded, right now, the bar will go forward, but. It enough to unlock jaws. I jack the trailer up about two inches and the bar will then go forward another inch needed to unlock. The trailer saver has a downward slope on the frame of the hitch.
  3. Update, after hauling rest of way from Kansas to Utah, discovered, I can only unhitch if I lift the trailer up enough to get the handle to slide forward enough to release the jaws. I will need to bend the handle up a couple of inches to clear the side rail of the hitch with weight on the hitch. And it needs to be a few inches longer as mentioned above.
  4. https://www.weigh-safe.com/ for tongue pull trailer. Or just use truck scale with and without trailer on axle weights.
  5. Not true. Only the big fifth wheels and TTs. I’d tow an airstream with the one ton all day long, with a pro pride hitch. Each has its place. Many tow way too much trailer for their truck and stopping is an issue.
  6. Update: all fixed up. Youngs didn’t have any heads out together, so they had to put one together for me. Longest part was waiting for the paint to dry. this is what it looked like under the head. While it was off I sprayed it down with greased lightning and used a can of rustoleum black to clean it up I also lubed the mounting holes for the head rocker box that are not serviceable. Looked pretty good all painted up and I hope it keeps the rust at bay. We got the head on and they built it at same height as the old head. As someone mentioned, it rubbed on a couple of areas as it is so much bigger than the Binkley unit. We had to grimd out about 1/2” out of the rear plate of the trailersaver. It is already ground out, just opened it up 1/2” more on each side to allow for full side to side head articulation. Here’s a pic showing where it was hitting on the head (white marks on head . and here is a pic of where we opened it up on each side the other problem was the forward to back movement the super Brinkley ET head was way longer and deep, you can see difference here. White mark is where is was first hitting This is is where they tapered the ends to allow the downward clearance on the back bar shaped it more like the small head was. now have full articulation side to side and front to back with no interference. Side by side comparison. The ET head has so much more meat. It weighs over twice as much and is just solid. i didn’t realize how much the trailer was moving around with the old head. With the ET head on there, everything feels solid. The old head also literally fell apart on the bench when we dropped it on the bench. Both pins popped out and lots of parts fell out. Truly blessed I saw that pin walking out at a pit stop and I put it back in with a retainer bolt. Could have been a disaster. The only thing I don’t like about the ET Super Binkley Head is the super short handle. I’m 6’5” with long arms and it is hard for me to reach that short handle and pull the release pin at the same time. Also, I need to know what grinding discs they are using. They ground that head plate, which I believe is 3/8” down in about 30 sec it was crazy how fast they took it down to the right angle Big shoutout to Young’s for working me in and getting me all fixed up. They mentioned they had sold 16 ETs since Jan already. I think Jack and team at RVHL installed all of them. There was also a new comfort ride on a pallet there that they were going to modify to fit a truck for RVHL. Spent a few min at RVHL with Jack and Jonah, good dudes and the new Volvo’s are beautiful and the beds are even beautifuler. Also, big thanks again to West Side tire in Chanute as well. AND, the city has an RV park about 1/2 mile down the road from Youngs and Kansas RV Center. FREE for two days and $10 a day after that. 50a and water. The sites by the bathrooms are all concrete and longer than the ones on the corner/intersection. And the “Grain Bin” restaurant downtown is awesome. Breakfast all day. The smothered hash browns were delish. This beauty was parked next to my truck when we came out. Big parking lot across the street.
  7. Sorry I missed ya. Your Moab trip looked awesome. Need to get back.
  8. RVhaulers.ca. Gregg will know.
  9. Got to Young's this aft. We pulled the pivot box/head off and i left it there. Should be done in morning. While i was unhooking the trailer, I did a walk around. Front steer tire was separating. So down to West Tire in Chanute, KS for two new steers. Went with Hercules steers. Great service. Mr. Scrambler man on HDT forum is nephew of the lady at the tire place. They just got back from Moab. Was fun talking with her.
  10. Yes, Henry and Rick used to weld their heads onto the trailersaver pivot base. I’m hoping Young’s will weld a Henry’s head onto my trailersaver base for me tomorrow.
  11. Henry sold ETHitch. Young’s Welding now owns all the designs and tooling.
  12. Thanks Glenn. That was very helpful. I’m 40’, so similar. I’m not an electrician, but how did you do 220v?
  13. So you put the cassette in the existing AC hole in the bedroom, right? That’s exactly what I want to do for both ACs. But you did not use the existing ducting. Are you going to spray foam the ducting or just leave it? Any issues with the copper piping? I was thinking whether or not needed flex hoses made. Great job Glenn. And how did you run the power? To the TV cabinet above the cubby in bedroom?
  14. Stopping is key. You also need to be able to stop when trailer brakes fail. I’m good. Slow and steady, yet stop all day long. Cheaper than a dually too.
  15. I went and found a grade 8 bolt that fit down through the access hole and all the way through the pin and extended down below the side access hole. I think this will be much stronger and hold it in better until new head is in place. It is a 1/4” grade 8 bolt 3 inches long works. 3.5” prob better, but couldn’t source one yesterday three hardware stores I went to were closed for holiday weekend. Miss the days when you can go into a hardware store and find bolts. No tractor supply near me right now and farmers co-op was closed. I’ll keep close eye on it, but should do fine
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