Scrap

The Eaton or Cooper-Bussmann SW inverter has been what replaced it in trucks in the past few years. http://www.connectorconcepts.com/1218acinwiba.html# The shore power and outlet kit for it is still on EBay! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Phillips-15AMP-Truck-Cab-AC-Shore-Power-Cable-Set-241806-40-FL10-350-with-Outlet/352269532085?epid=1849816587&hash=item5204e67bb5:g:kXoAAOSwGx1Zwcze:sc:FedExHomeDelivery!98038!US!-1 Amazon's got a pretty good deal on one, but no battery charging. They guy sells the FL extras, so don't know the warranty status on something like that. https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-12-110-1800-True-Inverter/dp/B015YT351C/ref=sr_1_12?m=A1RRHZWQYO9TSP&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1577641962&s=merchant-items&sr=1-12

Oh, yea, don't need all that stuff for a regear. Just a ring & pinion kit, but while it's all apart might as well do bearings, side gears, input shaft, I/A diff, new yoke to seal on and.... For non-lockers I just do the Dana exchange, but the locker ones still go to the gear guy. Don't think I've done a R&P since 2004, so not much help there anymore. We bought the diff adapter for our trans jack a long time ago as well, so no help there either. Just unbolt it and pull.... To get it out from under the truck just raise the truck on the mobile column lifts and roll it out....

Nothing special, just a normal parking brake can on both rear axles. Highway tractors can have a single set on the rear with the other rear axle being a set of service only chambers. Put some constant weight on the rear and it doesn't work so well anymore. The sticker wants the bobtail proportioning valve changed into a regular relay valve and it wants the QR-1C valve changed into an SR-7 valve that straight trucks use. Boy haven't seen one of those stickers in forever! http://www.plazafleetparts.com/piping-diagrams-spring-brake-control-for-trucks.html

The yokes torque to 600. Not fun. Haven't met one yet that would come out without a puller. Will also have to cut out a half moon shape in the axle housing flanges to clear the new difflock part. DD405 is already difflock. Does the truck just need to be plumbed? Double check! The whole carrier family for 404/405 is going to be 44 spline fwd and 39 spline rear. Then just match yokes from that group to whatever your driveline is. 4 bag suspension probably has a high angle yoke on the rear rear. You'll probably need to get a "thick flange" bolt kit since your truck is '90s. New carrier castings will look a bit different and take longer bolts. Will need to buy two of the long axle shafts with the longer spline on them for the difflock collars. You can do a single locker, trucks are built that way all the time. Most common on the fwd, but can be done either way.

I've always wondered if the kevlar linings would stick less, or stick more? They might be a bit much for a light truck that doesn't spend much time in the city though. What edge color are your current linings? Or do they have numbers on them? The dealer chamber, was it a welded clevis ordered by VIN? Or an off the shelf? If the latter, make sure the air ports match the other side square for square or round for round. Can't mix long stroke and standard stroke across an axle. That's probably well known ho-hum, but thought I'd mention it. And yea, any truck that isn't a tractor anymore (ie: stuff added on the back) must be changed over to dual park chambers, if not already equipped. Even bare tractors that have to park a non-park brake trailer it's a really, really good idea as well. It just takes a couple piggybacks to put on. Single parks really only work for van trailer freeway trucks.

So didja go out to the truck with the tech and go over what he heard? Any tech that lived through the change to rear crank driven air compressors in the early 2010's knows what impending death sounds like. It's pretty ugly when they let go. Not sure I'd leave my wallet sitting on the table, but be sure to hear him (or her) out before writing the problem off. (yea, pun intended...)

The K30's are the worst at that. Friggen annoying, but you can change the liner on-truck after you get it unstuck. That was the big worry for air discs, if they stick there is nothing to beat on that isn't expensive or that really gets you anywhere. So far sticking hasn't really been a thing with them. I've had one try a few years ago but it was pretty weak. But as aftermarket linings are starting to get popular the potential probably starts going up....

They use a nyloc spline nut. So once you get the head off and the seat out just give it a hit and it'll push it out of the seat channel. Then you can just put a regular nut on. On a W9 you need to remove the chicken lights and conspicuity panel and get to it sideways above the toolbox/steps. 379 I have no idea. Move the air tank? The seat channel runs fore-aft of the cab just under the seat and on a PB the spline nuts are directly in it. You'll feel a set of four of them in the side ears of that channel. The inner set are a mother to get to and may be easier through the shifter hole. Does the lowrider mount bolt directly on? I've only done one (on a KW) and it needed an adapter plate, so at least you can put the new bolt on and hold the nut without a stupid seat base in the way.

BTDT myself. You gotta change out the floorplate and plunger in the near future though. The reason it corroded was because so many pumps wore the coating off of the plunger and now you have steel plunger rubbing on aluminum floor plate. Your rubber boot is probably cracked and letting crap get in there too. It's gonna keep happening. But at least with a mechanical engine you notice it. When e-motor trucks started getting old it wasn't pretty.... Be sure to get the factory/Bendix kit. The painted black aftermarket one doesn't last for nuthin. Don't get the cheap Peterbilt one either. It works but it puts the pedal angle off and drives me nuts. Then while you are in there...... Betcha the two throttle pedal bushings are well worn as well. Might as well.................. With the pedal off look close at the nubbin that the throttle rod is hooked to on the pedal. If the salts got it smaller than it used to be it can break off - I guess you can call that a derate? Then with a nice tight pedal the exh brake pump switch will need readjusting. Might as well put all new heims on the throttle rods before doing that........

Definitely don't want to rewire the charge and start on a 2014. It's a MIL light and/or frozen DEF lines waiting to happen. Probably best just to fix/replace what's there. So, question for all, if you have a troublesome truck with an inverter and want to put a small-ish maintenance panel on the roof or top of the drom, does it have to go back to the batteries? Or can it go to the power studs of the inverter? Inverter's right there in the sleeper toolbox next to the charge controller, has a couple of big fat fused 2/0 cables, and saved me a crap ton of time. I argued against one of the solar system mfgrs help guys [actually my intern doing it had to argue between me and him ;)] and still did it my way. Anyone tried it that way? Truck ain't burned down yet, but it's only been a month.......

Looks like International #2021313C1 for inside the cab or 2035006C2 if outside the cab and a KV2T07-00 tee would be the parts I'd try if needing a non pipe threaded switch. Or if you do end up finding the factory switch, use a KV2U07-99-1 plug in Y, plug that in, then old switch into that, and a short piece of airline to the new switch and a KV2H07-00 union hooking them together. (stem switches won't fit side by side in the Y)

Can you guys put the KW stowable armrests that fold back on your Peterbilt seats? I've never tried it but a National seat is a National seat... They give quite a bit more width.

Can a guy buy the thermal stickers that are on all of our truck Alcoas and put them on a trailer wheel? Turns black = it's gotta go. Anything 5/16 threaded on a RV hubcap? Maybe put a TempBolt in there? They don't pop out till 250 though, maybe too late?

Yea, the main pin is usually in double shear as much as it can be, amongst the other problems above. Think you'll just have to quad track it......

I sure don't miss the old ferry! 70ft of truck on a 80ft boat was no fun. Felt like a fat boy getting on a surfboard! Definitely a grind getting out of there.

17th is main box in overdrive and aux box in underdrive, which is the most inefficient combination in the upstairs - something like 90-92%. So it should be worse numbers. Worth a try though as it won't hurt anything in a 9-series to run it and it'll see if your numbers can see the resolution.

Bah, that's like putting Calvin Kleins on Ron Jeremy!

Yea that's pretty much all of them. The Lubed for life driveshafts are only good to 600K. After that they need it every time with everything else. Same goes for the extended service brakes. If they have plugs instead of zerks in those spots then a guy needs to put in zerks at 600K and grease with everything else. There is a zerk on the front of each seat suspension but you may not want to do those unless it is a problem. Makes a mess on the inside of the truck. Careful when greasing the steering gear: https://www.trwaftermarket.com/globalassets/na/trucksteering---literature/steeringgears-lit/steeringgears-sp/tas103.pdf

With the KW is you can rotate the tanks cuz it is underslung. Run it down to 1/4 tank before starting into it, then take all the straps off. Rotate to where you need to be and put one strap back on enough to hold it in place. Do a different strap at the next rotate and you won't have tan lines when you are done. Get some #8 and #10 45 flare caps and plugs and you can get your fuel lines out of the way and keep them from dripping too. Replace the tank and strap rubbers first so you don't scratch it when rotated.. So, yea, 10". Or.......... While its all apart, take em off and have em painted? 😏

I like the Techtran Magnums for end of frame gladhand. They don't wad up like the separates and seem to hold up pretty well. They have the big handle on them too so you don't split the air hose trying to take them on and off. I use a couple of their 360 deg clamps on springs to hold the center of the thing up. I've never done an RV, but use the 12 footer with the 14" leads for the flatbeds. RVs might take a different lead. https://tectran.com/3-in-one-airpower-line-tec-360-clamp/ https://tectran.com/magnumflex-hd-dual-line-aircoils/ I'm not sure you can use the straight rubber air hoses on the back of the truck? Does it work? That's a lot of stretch back there.

Preset hubs (standard on most trucks for 10 some years now) need their first take-apart service done at 500K. Not sure that is getting done out in the world, but word needs to get out! https://www.conmet.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/HD_MD_Hub_Service_Manual_July14.pdf The oil list too: https://conmet.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/10009945J1.pdf

With the DM's I kept forgetting to throttle them up when coasting to a start going downhill. They'd work themselves up to 5th gear then clutch in at 1200 and slide me sideways. It was usually kinda messed up in the throttle at that point so you couldn't power out of it but sometime in the middle of all the screwing around the stability control would trailer jerk me straight again. Got stuck up on Eisenhower once where even in manual hold it wouldn't let me lug down to 800 rpm and kept shifting out of it. It never gave me a chance to shift the difflocks out and add them plus all those revs I slipped my way sideways down the banked corner and screwed myself. Sometime after that I decided to just steer the thing and let it traction control itself to do its own thing. Fast forward to another year and I scratch my way up Lookout and get down into Montana and I'm driving along wondering why every truck around me has stinky brakes. Finally figure out it is me! WTF? Shortly after realize that I put a bunch of heat into the tractor brakes on the way up. So ATC'ing is kind of a balance. Never really had a problem with the Plus' or the Endurants. They never want to go into the gear I want them in when I want it so it dings and I cuss for a good hour or so, but we get the snowy stuff done eventually. If I fly out and get a bobtail I'll pack a set of the studded SuperSox in the suitcase cuz they pack up so tight. They seem to do fine for the freeways and seem to fit the Flow Belows and stuff the aero trucks have. Never tried them on a loaded truck yet but might give them a shot on a trailer next year. Also with snow comes the de-icer.......Stuff will make a mess out of your nice steel truck bed in a hurry!

Never done an ATR-3 myself. I always assumed they were different internals but never actually looked it up. They weren't too common in my world though, still used the separate solenoid and/or hill hold assist valves back then. The ATR-6, yea, we've all done a bunch of them during the recall. Pretty easy, but they were all pretty new so they didn't have much chance to score up the valve bore itself. Don't drop any dirt inside and use lots of the pink grease! Don't those valve packages suck? You'd think you could screw the modulators back on and the mounting bolts would end up right back where they started, but they never ever line back up with the bracket hole. Frustrating! The old Wabco ones with the flange, bolt, and gaskets were pretty slick, but these ones not so much.

They added electric and hydrogen to the IFTA tables 4th quarter last year. Well, at least that's when our IFTA auditor pointed it out to me. Most states don't do much with it but some have a real small amount for straight electric. I haven't had to send in my Blink receipts, etc so far though. Just send in mileage only on those for now, but they are getting that all figured out. That truck doesn't have the M plates on it that the car has, so they registered it commercial IRP. It must have been the one that hauled the batteries around or an outside testing service is running it or something. They won't make it far without door decals! Yea, M plates need trip & fuel permits for every out of state trip. Heh, oops, yea you kind of have to get your lighting, signals, and markings right before you put your door cert label on and hit the road. They need to fix that before it catches up to them!

Well a year and a half later the Tesla truck finally gets a load ZECT got delivered a couple of months ago so you'll probably see it in LA. The first of the Toyota trucks has been delivered too. ('scuse the marketing video). There's 10 of them so I'm sure you'll run across one of them in LA sometime soon.