Scrap
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Posts posted by Scrap
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SAE J2863 for flatbeds and non RV stuff the problem?
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https://www.westernstartrucks.com/_Assets/BodyBuilderBook/08Suspension_Mar2017.pdf
I don't think you can use a single axle Airliner ride height (page 8-5) because they are usually made for 10" ride height. They have different bags, seats, front axle spacers, engine slant, etc to get there. I think you'd still need to use the fwd axle ride height from a tandem (page 8-6)since all the tandem parts were used.
For trailing arm suspension you can also go at it the other way around. If you saw the angle number cast into the seat when you installed it, you can use a digital protractor zero'd out on the rail. Then put it on the machined surface of the input yoke and play with the leveling valve. When protractor hits the listed seat angle then you know you're at ride height.
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On 5/20/2021 at 2:24 PM, rickeieio said:
The clutch in this thing is CRAZY easy.
It's a Kongsberg air assisted hydraulic. The little plastic linkage looking thing on the top of the pedal is what makes that detent you feel right before you get into the clutch brake territory. Hopefully keeps you out of there when you don't need it. Kind of might be a fan of that clutch pedal myself... 😉
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Yea MP280 sealed and the small PDM's made for them from Littlefuse or GEP. To skip all the terminals and crimper and stuff you can buy an Amazon one built and ready to go, just hook all the end wires together in how you need. I've not used one though so don't know much in regards to how well they built it up.
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A couple of my DIY sealed units for ideas. They weren't $30, but they came from the same diagrams. They keep the relays out on the frame rail so you don't have to hear the relays clicking under your bunk. They make sealed MP280 junction boxes and micro relays that work great for this. Or a RTMR if you want to mount it to something. The 4 into 1 splices I probably won't crimp again and would use two sealed 280 splice connectors. Ones been on the truck since 2012 and the other 2016 with no troubles. The top one runs a trailer and goes inline of where the trailer connector harness plugs into the truck. The bottom one runs a headache rack.
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Manlift is kind of a bit annoying cuz you have to lay on your belly in the basket to get enough steady pressure on the buffer. You end up with your legs bent up all backwards and the lip at the entry right up under your armpits. Then the basket gets to shaking and weaving and tries to hit the truck you just buffed. You have to get the basket right up in there. Scaffolding works, but anchor it really well cuz you'll be putting a lot of sideways pressure on it with your feet when between levels. Nothing about it is fun!
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General rule of thumb minimum for trucks:
6L-9L w/ 42MT starter: 3 batts
6L-9L w/ gear reduction starter: 2 batts
10L-13L w/ 42MT starter: 4 batts
10L-13L w/ gear reduction starter: 3 batts
14-18L w/ 42MT: 4 batts
14-18L w/ gear reduction starter: 3 batts
14-18L w/ gear reduction starter and body controller: 4 batts
Adaptations:
6L-13L weight sensitive and you own a service truck or are the service truck: 2 batts
Engine start module: 2 batts
Engine start module and service truck and\or you never shut your truck off: 1 batt (good luck with that...)
Inverter, fridge, beacon lights, liftgate: 4 batts.
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The NextGens won't be out until July. They won't be able to get Allison because the big cooler kind of defeats the purpose of the front end its got going on. Allison is T880 and others now. Markedly better truck though, worth waiting for.
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If you've got stability control it'll apply the service side momentarily during the chuff test just after key on. Leaking diaphragm, bad QR-1C, messed up plumbing from converting it to straight truck, etc, could cause crossover and momentary park release. Probably need to unhook some emergency side hoses to isolate and see just which ones are blowing air at that time.
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Ha, ain't that the truth. And why is that charger you've been counting on forever in your app always end up at the top of a hill?
A couple weeks ago I jumped in a truck to do my thing and thought "man, its nice to be in a diesel truck again". Was like, what? Did I just say that? Right now, enjoying the forum and a coffee before a morning of moving one of each type over to downtown. But heck, all keys crank over the same... Crazy times we are in.
The green hydrogen is the thing I can't get over. Cool and all, but a whole dam near us gets committed to making hydrogen during instantanious off-peak or low wind, or whatever. The whole dam, cranking away, doing nothing but making my fuel. That's some serious power!
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Lol, yep, a guy can hope!
So here is your 4 door T680 6x2........
https://mhc.com/trucks/used/2015/kenworth/t680/i0478700
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Yea, just trying to keep the family place alive. I would miss the big sandbox! Hoping to do both. Luckily the CRP re-bid is looking pretty good for next month so hopefully that works out. Happiness is being a pickup farmer!
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Just left there at midnight last night with a truck y'all can't see till next month! 😏
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Today, actually, is my effective date of being a wheat farm owner. My cousin and I are doing this...Gulp! Bankers, lawyers, accountants, and FSA office have been my life so haven't been on the forum too much. I'm still same ol Mr KW as well though. I saw your PM Rick, see what we can figure out.
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Phillips has started to make small qty packages of the good PTC fittings. I think they also have assembled kits and things too, if that strikes your fancy. You can order them anywhere they sell Phillips - KW dealer, Napa, online, etc - but not at a Parker store since they are competitors.
Qwik-Fit Catalog:
http://phillipsind.com/media//media_relations/983/_B-QF-ENG_REV0_QWIK-FIT_8-31-16.pdf
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Yes, good luck Dave!
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Bendix # 107284. Relay valve, 5.5psi crack.
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Call Freightliner, buy the axle seats and u-bolts that match the angle the fwd axle used to have (2,3,4 ~ish deg). I don't know Freightliner, but maybe the original fwd axle seats will work on a rear axle. The axle slant needs to get to near the engine slant or it won't work out. Set the axle, then you can do all the math (or hold/measure/adjust with a crane) and lower the centerbearing to get the perfect angles. Or maybe with the axle set right it'll be close enough....
Shaft angles need to target a compound 3 deg, shouldn't be much over 5deg if overdrive trans.
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Ooooooooh mama, that's an inverter!!
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Ha, yea, from Formulas to PEEC's, Super 10's to Ultrashifts, Jifflox to 6X2's, there always has been and always will be new fangled ways to save fuel and emissions on the pavement pounders! Sometimes it is nice to have a good ol regular truck that just does its thing!
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Safety & liability. Official term is "Cruise Control Rationality". The 3psi and 60 psi pressure switches use the same housing, but you really don't want to screw them up or lose a ground or something. Nowadays the truck can tell you to hit the brake or clutch in the dash display, but back then there wasn't really one. Usually it'll set a code in the cab controller when its stuck on rationality, and/or has a 1939 message that can be read. Can you add an indicator to your Silverleafs or Bluefire screens to display rationality status? I don't remember it being a 90's thing, and not really a thing till 2004/2005, but maybe it was a Volvo thing way earlier.
engine brake not working
in HDT
Posted
How to check the old Smartwheel:
https://f01.justanswer.com/NicholasM1019/3dad3972-dfb4-47a3-b7be-ce24b50441cd_km816012_(2).pdf