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Scrap

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About Scrap

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  • Birthday 12/06/1974

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    WA

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  1. Scrap

    10 Speed Autoshift ain't so Auto any more

    It just replaces the hydraulic slave that is under the clutch housing with the pneudraulic version. Put it in, add an airline, bleed, and done**. It doesn't really care what clutch is in front of it. ** I think......it is Volvo stuff I never personally put my fingers on but when we figured out the part # I think it worked for a guy on here. One other thing though, normally when going from a Solo to an EZ Pedal or an old Solo to the new Advantage clutch (self adjust or not) you have to change out the roller release fork used with the Solo for the finger version used on the others. But I only know rodded clutches....Does that still hold true for the hydraulic setup? Make sure your shop knows before stabbing in the trans...
  2. Scrap

    Cat C7 Alternator Neville LBA2108 no output.

    Those LN's (Prestolite) alternators do have a voltage regulator on the middle back of them that you can replace on-engine if there isn't water pipes and stuff in the way. Might be an easy fix?
  3. Scrap

    10 Speed Autoshift ain't so Auto any more

    That sucks Paul! Sure you don't want to put air assist on it while its all apart? Volvo # 20469695. I mean, what's a few hundy more..... EZ Pedal is nice and all, but no comparison. EZ pedal has been standard production for like 15 years and so common you'd have to work hard not to get it as a replacement part, sure you don't have one already?
  4. Scrap

    Filled That Space

    Wrapping the DPF runs the risk of getting an overtemp fault, which is a stop engine and a derate so you probably don't want to go there. Wrapping the tailpipe doesn't do much and probably isn't worth the cost of the wrap - except being able to package things closer to the pipe. Sometimes you can't put a price on that! Wrapping the downpipe doesn't help an active regen much since your DOC is in the DPF can, but it does help a lot with getting a lot more passive regen. It may be worth it. 95% of the benefit you'll see will be your new doser, gasket, and new downpipe clamps and gaskets, but wrapping that pipe will help some to get more time between active regens. All those pipes are wrapped on DEF trucks so that the SCR can hold minimum temps.
  5. Scrap

    Filled That Space

    In the DPF can. Pipes are in the 800's on '07-'10's. Maybe a tin heat shield somehow with some of that white & silver JEGS heat mat on it would work.
  6. Canalyzer 😉. It used to be in Road Relay but I think it left when XPI engines came out in 2010 because it didn't matter anymore. Or maybe it left with Road Relay 4. I haven't been able to find in in my Road Relay 5 trucks. Or you could do BlueFire on your phone and have Mark add it as a parameter for your exact engine and then pick it as a gauge to display or as something to log. Or my First-Link may have it too, I'd have to bluetooth to a truck tomorrow and see. That one's a bit small to try to drive by though. Or there is SilverLeaf as well. I'm kind of a Road Relay fan since it isn't really a dash Klingon I have to remember to set, but that's just opinion. * Suppose I should correct myself above.... big CAT is EUI, not HEUI, oops.
  7. Keep that stick hospital clean or don't use it. Wood and hollow tubing can't stay hospital clean. 2 micron secondary filter or not, a lot of engines can handle the dirt but your HEUI isn't one of them. Never run your truck below 1/4 tank out here unless you have a Silverleaf or Cat DID or something to see fuel temps. 135 it starts missing, 140 it starts to derate, and 150 it finally sets a code. In the midwest it probably isn't a worry but out here it is pretty easy to do with the old trucks. Injectors used to be the biggest worry ever before there were DPF's to worry about.
  8. Yep its regular 5/8 truck air line.
  9. #10 green air hose drops down from the treadle, goes into the LH rail, then goes forward to the QR valve in the middle of the rad xmember. It is probably wrapped in convelute. Maybe rubbed through by the clutch bellcrank?
  10. It was the trailer brake passthru trace that didn't have continuity and we had to jumper. It won't affect this. The red light isn't a warning light, it is an indicator light that the markers are on and it has power that far. That is a good thing. When you twist that Deutsch apart it is the upper part that comes off and the lower part stays in the floor. Look at the pins in the floor part and make sure they are all the same level. If one got pulled on it'll be a bit lower than the others. Push the wire in from under the sleeper side and it'll click the pin into place. Check for 12V on the female end while you have it apart. Then check continuity from the male floor end to the trailer plug. Then you'll know where the trouble lies. Not to sound dumb, but make sure the headlamp and the clearance lamp switches are on, and that nothing is pushing the interrupter switch up or down.
  11. Inboard Deutch connection at the sleeper floor and the screws on the trailer plug are the only two connections past the LED's. Maybe it got pulled too tight or maybe it got pinched when the bed went on? Without a meter or a test light you are kind of stuck. Want to run the truck down to me tonight?
  12. Scrap

    Rust Epidemic heading north

    What? A Canadian without wrinkled tank rubbers? So anyways what happens when a strap on a hanging tank like this breaks? Do you have to jack the tank back into place? Does it bend up the other strap? Does it just bolt back in or is it a major pain? Tank doesn't get worn or punctured? Kind of sounds like a non-event if your pre-trip catches it? We've sold against hanging tank trucks for so long that by now I figured a broken strap would be an Atomic Fireball with some Valdez Jr on the side...
  13. Scrap

    KW T2000 Battery Cables?

    To do a disconnect switch, change out the red cables for these: K396-2341F020 batt-disco K396-2341F030 batt-disco K385-22E5F065 Qty 2 disco-starter P11-1012 bracket holds it and get a Flaming River Big Switch with handle for the switch. Cut the top half of the T-handle off to get it to work under the step. (the KW specific one isn't made anymore) I don't think the KW battery cables will seal with your Deka battery ties though. You will probably have to buy two Julian/Deka/Freightliner cables to go from your battery ties to the disconnect switch in order to keep the sealing. Or buy the Kenworth battery ties that seal in with the cables. You won't need that Freightliner stud for accessories anymore since they will all be on the disconnect switch lug anyways. I don't have a whole lot of experience with them, but that single stud for two batteries worth of cable has got to be a restriction. Usually 3/8 studs are only good for 250A, so the KW cables use a stacking washer to use the cable ends plus the stud to pull power from two batteries. Not that it'll burn up or anything, but you may see a starting improvement.
  14. Scrap

    Air tank replace

    Ah, yea the primary can be any ol tank of equal or greater volume. The secondary is the one special for the dryer. It is big, heavy, gangly, and would really suck to have kicking around if you got the wrong one!
  15. Scrap

    KW T2000 Battery Cables?

    120" hood big block w/ 42MT starter can't do it on a single set of 4/0 cables. If changed out to a gear reduction starter it maybe might squeak by. But dual 2/0 is still very common with them - especially with 4 batts. So probably best to stick with tandem starter cables. Give KWNW a shot at quoting new cables. They really aren't that bad. Adding a disconnect will more than double the cable price though. Yea it doubles the cables but it also isn't as common out there. So you get out of the high volume parts and get into the specialty stuff. Could still be well worth it though.
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