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Scrap

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About Scrap

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  • Birthday 12/06/1974

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    WA

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  1. Scrap

    Checking Brake Fluid With A VOM Meter

    For Hydromax and Hydromax II (medium duty trucks have em, probably RV's, etc) you go by TMC TP 1409. It is not in the owners manual because it is industry standard thing. I don't do automotive, but they did an industry standard in the mid-2000's. It goes by amount of copper. There's test strips for it. I know it is for DOT3 sealed (bellows) cap, not sure if it is vented DOT4 european. I'm sure it is all Google-able.
  2. Scrap

    Question for the newbies.

    OK guess I don't need the VIN for 2015+. (But still send it and I'll save it for future) Retrofit kit is P74-1016-110. They don't sell the kit anymore but that # will ssd you to the two parts that are needed, sans instructions. It'll be a RH window control module and the two key fobs. You can get the window module out with a putty knife/trim tool and don't have to take the doorpad off. Light check on the key fob is nice to have!
  3. Scrap

    Question for the newbies.

    There isn't really a retrofit kit but send me your VIN and I'll see if I can figure out a list of parts.
  4. Scrap

    Question for the newbies.

    Whoa, that's a whole nother level! Last spring we had a big office argument over how steady PTO RPM needs to be, so they sent me out ride with a slinger guy around us for half a week. I sucked. Bad. First load Monday morning we beat our way all the way deep into downtown, park next to this bent over fence, fold her out, and have to fling a truckload of rock into a little piling square four stories down in a sky scraper sized hole in the dirt....😲 I thought I'd get step by step instructions from him before starting but ohhhh no, he yelled something about peeing a perfect dot in the snow and flipped on the belt!😏 I guarantee you we have the steadiest PTO RPM in the biz now...
  5. Scrap

    2 stroke Diesel is KING.

    Peterbilt's gotta build two trucks with that engine next year. Then run one as a Tyson truck in Sacramento and I think a Wal-Mart somewhere else inside CA. By this time next year we'll know how well it works out. I think I heard Cummins has been building a bigger (still test?) version of them for something military for the past couple of years?
  6. Scrap

    Changing out the STD 5th wheel ????

    Frame jacking is a pretty big consideration nowadays too. Takes some stout components to combat that with a 1650+ engine. It'll probably suck up a good chunk of custom shock valving as well. Haven't been able to do a 21K rear with a 12-14L engine since the 90's. There's a tilt table mixed in with it all too. You don't want to be the OE that flops off of that!
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    Question for the newbies.

    T880 Dump? Sweet!!
  8. Scrap

    What happened to my shocks?

    Yea, safety chain on the Zacklift or one of those tow-your-own setups. Inboard shocks are their favorite, right behind an 8 bag.
  9. Scrap

    Question for the newbies.

    XXXX-2005 = special handwired option (non T2, usually only on Brakesaver trucks), 05-'10 without and with is only dealer programmable, 10-13 standard position without and optionable with, 13-18 standard position with and optional without, 2018+ is only with but follows a decel algorithm to turn them on instead of flashing all the time. Has to accomodate regen braking for electric trucks as well.
  10. Scrap

    Question for the newbies.

    Assuming you are looking into converting to spring brake modulation (aka straight truck air, aka rigid) before the new bed goes on? And thus the question? If you bed + stuff = more than 2000lbs then yes, you gotta do it. Page 2: https://www.macktrucks.com/-/media/files/body-builder/manuals/5-brakes.pdf Page 25: https://www.volvotrucks.ca/-/media/vtna/files/shared/body-builder/manuals/volvo_section-5-brakes.pdf Dunno what valves Volvos use but 30% of NA use this (or at least used to in 2012):
  11. Scrap

    Antifreeze colors

    Also beware of the TRP oil in the coolant bottle...🤬 🤬 Stuff's a bad day waiting to happen.
  12. Scrap

    Air leak help

    Dropping pressure and then holding on the F tank sounds like the pressure protected check valve doing its job. With it going down first without the R leaking down then it's prolly something forward of the F tank. A supply tank leak, an air dryer problem (bad regen valve?), or governor problem? How to check the PCCV: https://www.tectran.com/images/pdf/TB_AD21.pdf What to check on the dryer: https://wheelco.com/assets/uploads/Meritor-WABCO-SS1200-SS1800-Air-Dryers-TP97101.pdf This just start happening or has it been at it for awhile?
  13. Scrap

    Newmar fifth wheel tire and wheel dilemma

    They are Dexter wheels. The warning sticker is still on the spare of my 02 Mountainaire:
  14. Scrap

    Relays for trailer lights

    Benefit to this is that it is really small and it is sealed. So if you have a daycab truck, don't want to cut a hole in your sleeper floor, or don't want to hear relays under your pillow in the sleeper this has some benefits. Or if you just wanna wire a flatbed or some mudflap lights, or some rack lights, and you ordered your new truck with the OEM junction box like you are supposed to, then found out they wire them like a trailer [👎] this works good to fix that. Downside is that MP280 terminals are 30A and under, and your average micro relay is 15-20A unless you order something special, so the little unit is used for LED lamps only, and keep your plans for it kind of small, of course. Also gets to be a bit of a rats nest if you aren't careful on the harness side when connecting as a powered trailer lamp converter. Isn't quite 1:1 wire connections. It'll work fine off of taillamps as a straight relay set, but doesn't really fix anything if something wipes out the tail or turn circuit. If there is no signal to the relay it is not going to do anything, or it is going to stay on all the time. Either way is still broke so, yea, gotta dig into the wires and get em sorted.
  15. Scrap

    lost all lights to camper

    RV wire doesn't fit for crap in a J560 plug. Truck wire is a better bet if going that direction. But use the right truck wire: Most every truck since 2004 is going to have a QCS or QCS2 on the truck side. They were optional for a couple of years but were for sure standard by 2007 in my world. Be sure to carry one in the glovebox. When there are problems you just pull the end off, put in the new one, then clean and futz with your old one when you have time. For you guys that are QCS and are permanently plugged into the front end of the Jackalopee you should be using a QCMS2 cable to go from truck to converter. http://phillipsind.com/main/electrical-assemblies/straight-assemblies/sta-dry-qcms2.html http://phillipsind.com/resources/video_library/sta-dry-qcms2 If you are going J560 to the trailer then you should buy a QCS2 harness to exit the Jacalopee and go to end of truck. http://phillipsind.com/straight-qcs2-harness.html Now if you really like the metal sockets then none of this really helps. The socket cleaner Noteven mentioned at truck dealers is the Phillips unit in their metal maintenance kit. They want you to do this every 3-6 months. http://phillipsind.com/media//media_relations/767/_PM-PSM-ENG_REV0_Preventive_Socket_Maintenance_3-4-16.pdf If you have metal sockets and one end of your coil cord isn't removed that much, then put a Permaplug on it: http://phillipsind.com/resources/video_library/weather-tite-permaplug-1 And how to know if you have a QCS on your tractor already: http://phillipsind.com/resources/video_library/qcs2-quick-change-socket
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