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About Scrap

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  • Birthday 12/06/1974

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  1. Attention HD Truck enthusiasts

    That is pretty impressive. No hopping, no frame jacking, no screwing around, just freakin shovels dirt. Must have new pins & bushings. I sooooo want to do that as the first ride & drive for the electric trucks. Might sell a few.
  2. My Build

    Go big! Jack needs one in the new shop! Well actually two...one with the cutting die. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Electrical-Termination/Hydraulic-Crimpers-and-Cutters/2679-22
  3. Thinking about anti freeze

    OAT Test strips for ELC coolant: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PARAFC240 http://prestone.com/command/products/test-strips.php
  4. Truck Cover

    $550 a truck for an aero truck, and basic with no flaps, zippers, felt, etc, etc.
  5. Truck Cover

    I call the boat shrink wrap guy and watch him do it. Works great!
  6. Sleeper mattress sizes, what fits what doesn't?

    Kind of wonder what you are supposed to do in an old PB myself. So you get the 42x77 PB mattress, do you stretch a 39x75 set of twin sheets on it? Or do you put on a loose 39x80 set of twin XL sheets on it? Or do you buy Peterbilt sheet too? The KW's are 42x80 so I get a set of twin XL at Target and am good to go. I know, not much help, but I've been trying the Bostrom/Serta truck mattress in the last couple weeks (yea, tough day at work) and it sure is nice! But it is only in 80".... Bust out the Sawzall!
  7. Parking on an incline

    If this parking is most of the trucks life then consider some MGM TR-HD springs at the next brake chamber change. They make a difference. OEM or 1st tier linings too. China linings will roll away. https://mgmbrakes.com/files/6714/2496/9293/5033.pdf Detroit's not my every day thing, but I swear there was some TIB/Service procedure/something on that. Google the hell out of it. Something akin to: http://dd15troubleshooting.com/low-oil-pressure-codes/ Delco Hill.......
  8. Should I change my def?

    A DEF refractometer will tell you which way to go if it is suspect. Dip a sample and if above 34% and below 30% it'll need to go.
  9. Older batteries in a 2013 truck

    Freedom HFS 2000? I know its the same install but never compared specs with a fine tooth comb. Always assumed they were pretty much the same thing. I think it is missing the SAE cert if that matters. The 1800W Freedom HF was MSW if I remember right.
  10. The connectors are Deutsch HDP24-24-9S and the wire is a straight Phillips Lectraflex (the green cable). The cable going to the back of the truck was the RV cable that came in his Jackalopee kit. I took his trailer plug off and cut the green cable back till I hit fresh copper. Put the Deutch on the end of that and routed it over to the sleeper toolbox floor. I fillet'd an old sun-baked green trailer cable for its wires and used that as the makeup wire from the floor to the converter and from converter back to floor. Then the RV wire got a Deutsch on the end of it and back to the end of the truck. The RV wire was a lot smaller than I imagined so I had to pin the 'out' connector differently so the right gauges were in the right holes. Good or bad I don't know but it made for a lot more reliable crimps. The connectors are also installed backwards from how a truck would normally be. Mr Cob wanted it so you could twist them off and pull the whole converter out to work on it on a bench, which made sense to me. Had I done it all over again I'd probably buy a P92-1922 KW body junction harness and ran that from the 'out' connector to the back of the truck instead of the RV wire. I'd probably also buy the KW trailer extension harness (forgot the PN but it is basically a green cable with a Deutsch on either end), chop it in half, and use that as the in and out of the Jackalopee. Then you'd only have one hand crimped connector (old trailer plug end) and three machine crimped connectors. It would be much more reliable on the 10 and 8 ga wires. They aren't easy to do.. Connectors: https://laddinc.com/product/?sku=HDP26-24-9SE-L024
  11. Older batteries in a 2013 truck

    2014 was the year of the mainstream truck inverter so a 2013 truck was a bit early. We were supposed to have shore power at every truckstop at that point in time. The current J1544 inverters came out in 2014 but didn't get battery charging included until sometime in the last year. They charge at 40A. You buy the inverter: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/80144/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-12-110-1800-B4-True-Sine/ The cable ends for it: http://www.partdeal.com/zerostart-cab-power-inverter-panel-mount-connector-kit-8500647.html The harness to the load center (grey box) http://www.partdeal.com/zerostart-cab-power-54-in-interior-wire-harness-8500641.html Unplug the shore power cable from the load center and plug it into the inverter. Plug the new harness in the inverter out and into the bottom of the load center, give it the same battery cables and mounting as any other inverter, and you've got an inverter on your outlets like it would be done today.
  12. Older batteries in a 2013 truck

    The grey box is the circuit breaker for code. It isn't used with the inverter because the inverter has all that stuff inside it so its a pretty good bet you only have shore power. If you want to add an inverter then you can get the 1800W one Mr Cob got in his thread and the shore power will plug right into the inverter using those same plastic clip plugs. Then the grey box side will plug into the AC out of the inverter using those plugs too, but you'll need to buy a harness since you'll be short one. The Ebay set Mr Cob bought would work too. Run the battery wires through the floor and now you have a charging inverter in place with no tearing up of the sleeper. Officially you'd have to replace the shore power cord with a 20A sideways plug one since an 1800W charging inverter draws more than 15A, but that's kind of up to you if you are a code stickler or not.
  13. DPF Cleaning and VCADS

    Did the dealer call back? I don't know Volvo specifically, but in generic terms you need to reset the ash level and put it in degreen with a service tool. The ash level just resets the warning light timer for another 200K or so, and degreen just changes the regen parameters a bit for a green DPF. It only lasts like 4-10 regens. Neither one makes a major regen change like you have, so I'm kinda thinkin somethings wrong. I imagine you checked out the DOC when you had the DPF out, so assuming it is good. About the 3 min timeframe (on a warmed up truck) is where it is making the to dose or not to dose decision and fires out some test squirts to see if it gets back the results it wants. If not it'll try again later. With a service tool you can see the results of it all and can pick out who is having the problem. If they look fine then you put the dosing unit in a beaker and flow test it manually controlled by the service tool. Without the laptop you are pretty blind and are a bit stuck being a parts changer. But a new dosing injector and a couple new pressure sensors & tubes never really hurt anyone. They die all the time and get horribly inefficient before they die. I think it would be a good gamble to take if you want to DIY.
  14. Went for a ride today - SRC System

    Derate in regards to SCR is either the 5mph "safe harbor" derate (takes a key cycle or a fuel re-fill, etc) or the 55mph 20-40% torque reduction derate. It takes hundreds and hundreds of warned miles to get to that point, but that is what the dash is trying to tell you. There should be a section in your owners manual that describes the SCR derates and dash warnings that'll be specific to the right truck (I dunno Volvos). Happening 70 miles into a trip after being parked for a long time would suggest a DEF concentration problem or a NOx sensor that got wet and died or a DEF crusty that got somewhere it shouldn't be or corrosion in the DEF harness connectors, and on and on. Only pulling codes leads to the right direction. The only manual parked regen that does affect it is the short desorb regen if you idle all night but I don't think that started until 2013. The truck will tell you when it wants it and it'll only happen parked anyways. They'll have to fix it before they can change the DEF filter or they won't be able to re-prime it, so you'll know soon enough what the trouble is.
  15. Truck bed install

    Yea it may be a big ol semi truck but don't over-estimate it. You take a single rail highway truck, load all your worldly possessions in the big sleepers, mount a high cg drom immediately behind the sleeper mount, side-load a car off the edge of the bed behind that, then load the rest of your possessions in a whole lot of toolboxes that need to open anywhere you may park, then counterbalance all that with a trailer another 10 feet down the line. Then stop and beat your way into a parking spot every 250 miles. It ain't easy being an RV truck. That said, if the body is being designed for a light application, then it needs to be marked somewhere on the door jamb or have a loading plaque installed somewhere conspicuous. You don't need to re-rate the truck (unless first retail sale) but people are people and if it looks like a semi then someone somewhere is going to load it like a semi unless well marked. Now most beds seem to have a subframe probably from experience and probably from needing to clear tires, but I'd assume you also want the thing to be torsionally stiff so it doesn't rip your car apart, leaves your tool box doors open-able anywhere you park, doesn't crack every corner on your body, etc. So you tie it on flexible enough both so that doesn't happen and so you don't get a straight truck front end bounce. But you still have to make it solid enough so you don't get the dump truck thunk as well. That is why the KW manual above has flexible in the front and rigid in the back (BAM3). The Europeans and COEs, however, don't like that and do the same thing with all flexible and frame spacer (BAM1). Anything full rigid has a bunch of requirements and no frame spacer. So there's many ways to skin the cat and frame spacer or not depends on how you do it. Now add your Volvos (or is it just Mack's?) that have certain brackets/Xmembers with bodymount bolts and I don't know how you'd make a rigid mount by hand while reaming holes for those. I'd guess you'd have to make it flexible just so you can deal with hand-built tolerances. Or build the subframe & mounts on the truck first and then transfer to the bed. Either way a frame spacer isn't going to be able to hold the tolerances for them. They add a whole new dimension. Anyways, long story short, the DAF manual is probably the best out there in bodybuilder university. Yes there is a lot to it and you have to read it a good 5 times over but all the decisions to space or not space and where to put all the mounts are in there. It tells how to make the subframe as well. CF and XF correspond to class 8 trucks. http://www.dafbbi.com/~/media/files/bbi/bodybuilders-guidelines/en/bbg201222en.pdf Start at page 51.