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About Scrap

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  • Birthday 12/06/1974

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  1. They added electric and hydrogen to the IFTA tables 4th quarter last year. Well, at least that's when our IFTA auditor pointed it out to me. Most states don't do much with it but some have a real small amount for straight electric. I haven't had to send in my Blink receipts, etc so far though. Just send in mileage only on those for now, but they are getting that all figured out. That truck doesn't have the M plates on it that the car has, so they registered it commercial IRP. It must have been the one that hauled the batteries around or an outside testing service is running it or something. They won't make it far without door decals! Yea, M plates need trip & fuel permits for every out of state trip. Heh, oops, yea you kind of have to get your lighting, signals, and markings right before you put your door cert label on and hit the road. They need to fix that before it catches up to them!
  2. Well a year and a half later the Tesla truck finally gets a load ZECT got delivered a couple of months ago so you'll probably see it in LA. The first of the Toyota trucks has been delivered too. ('scuse the marketing video). There's 10 of them so I'm sure you'll run across one of them in LA sometime soon.
  3. I've become addicted to my metric tape....anything else and I screw it up. I owe my tech $100 for every hole he has to drill that could've been done factory. 😟 I got him down to $50 if I get it on the wrong side! 🤣
  4. Scrap

    Tinker Week?

    The factory tool. Pulls them tight and cuts them flush. MK9 EVO
  5. Scrap

    Window Vents

    Nice! Ah, it's an old KW......It allows you to close your doors all the way the first time!
  6. Get a 12V sealed relay or similar: https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Waterproof-Harness/dp/B01N66W2XF/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=12v+sealed+bosch+relay&qid=1558197179&s=gateway&sr=8-5 85: To Ground 86: To Generator IGN 87a: None 87: To ACR Isolation #1 30: To truck IGN If the generator has more on time than the truck then you'll want to swap 86 and 30. If you do that, however, you'll hear the relay click every time you key on the truck. That may get annoying after a couple years.
  7. I think the simplest way is to just manually turn your ACR rocker switch to off when running truck and generator at the same time. That'll uncombine the batteries and the truck charges/maintains its side and the house charges/maintains its side. But you can't forget. To do it automatically you'd need to make a relay setup that takes IGN from the truck, IGN from the generator, then when they both have 12V it sends that signal to the Isolation #1 input of the ACR so it uncombines the batteries when both of them are turned on. It'll have to be a relay system so it doesn't backfeed the two IGN circuits. How to wire that I'd have to think about it for a bit....
  8. Scrap

    First Build

    Took me some head scratching and I still had my fingers crossed behind my back on the PN for Glenn's ABS module. It was kind of a simple system though. The ACC/ACB/Fusion on this one is a whole different ball game. Take a truck that automatically safety brakes and then remove two brakes and 4000 lbs off of it, yea that's a bit of liability to guess on what will work. Needs track time.
  9. That T660 is HOT!!!!
  10. Scrap

    Jackalopee question

    Can you guys put a TrailCharger in your RV trailers? That is the unit they designed to charge trailer batteries off of the center pin ABS circuit after the trailer hotline got taken out.
  11. Scrap

    Jackalopee question

    The circuit is 40 or 50A Maxi fused. TMC standards require it to be 12.5V at 10A at the trailer end connection. A battery powered trailer hooked to the trailer ABS center pin will backfeed the IGN circuit and keeps the truck running. Prior to 98 the truck didn't care about backfeed and used the old 30A circuit breaker in the header. 98-01 you just needed to swap the ABS power and trailer hotline connectors that are side by side and interchangeable and you are set. 01+ with PLC the connectors had to be separated and truck had to come factory with ABS power but it could still be switchable to trailer hotline with a chop and a butt splice. Somewhere around 2013 or RSD brakes timeframe standards changed again and ABS power is the only thing that could be on the center pin and trailer hotline had to be removed. Trailer hotline has to be spec'd to be in the 2nd yellow 3731 connector. Long story short, I can't imagine a used truck not having a working trailer ABS center pin, so if you had to add a relay it may be powering trailer 'aux' or hotline? So it should work?
  12. Engine oil is legit for Sheppard gears. Dex II or III for TRW/Ross gears. Watch your max temps if using engine oil. Maybe put one of those sticky temp thermometers on the reservoir and check it out for awhile before swapping over. Don't dry steer it with 10-40 either, but a truck shouldn't be dry steered anyways.
  13. Can you post up a material list of wire size, length, and end fittings Glenn? I might be able to come up with a part # list of pre-made assemblies you can just buy.
  14. Scrap

    Truck battery charger

    Its fine on a Freightliner because they can handle it. Everything grounds to chassis then to battery so it'll find its way if it needs to. On those that ground via harnesses you gotta make sure your ground harness (the alt-cab-engine-starter-battery) is perfect and sized correctly if you switch the ground. Long ago I fried (like melted into a puddle of goo) both door modules, a sleeper clock, and an Autoshift beeper in one bad click. It sucked. A couple on the + side is safer for the others unless you really check it out. C-H disconnects are 175A or 300A, depending on which you buy. ECU's in a 06 will be fine being disconnected forever. Running a truck off a converter is the more risky part. Make sure it is good stable clean power, has a couple of batteries between truck draw and converter for 'filtering', and that the converter inserts into the correct ground loop (aka if converter charges to house batteries but plan to run the truck on its original charge/start then be sure to ground it right). Trucks are made to shut off an APU at key-on (TMC standard) and aren't really designed & tested to run off a external power so they might not even be right as OEM...
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