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About Scrap

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  • Birthday 12/06/1974

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  1. I forgot to say that if you use one of the spare power breakouts and are going to install the brake controller with a circuit breaker then you can just put a breaker into the fuse position that you were going to add anyway.. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46773/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-22120-300-ATC-ATO-Circuit/ If you use the main cab circuit breaker stud for power then you have to splice something inline of your power wire. Probably the same breaker and an ATO fuseholder. I was also thinking about your inverter. You are a pretty good match for the Phillips & Temro kit. I know more $ for less watts of what you can DIY, but all the harnesses are already made and you just click it all together. You don't make any splices and you can't cross anything up. Can't go wrong. There are additional y-harnesses you can get to add a 2nd outlet and different length harnesses can be bought to put the outlets anywhere. https://phillipsandtemro.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/30349-PT-LIT0019P_cab_sellsheet_LR.pdf To get power from battery to inverter you get a HPDM and a 250A Megafuse. Tie that to something in the battery box. https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46319/Littelfuse-880195400-Sealed-HPDM-600A/ Now Ebay the Peterbilt inverter harness. Put the ring terminal end on one of the outputs of the HPDM and cut the slot in the sleeper floor for the other end. I'll have to figure out the # of the mating harness that goes from floor to inverter. Buy that, lock them together, and done. Again, no way you can cross them up and burn anything down. https://www.ebay.com/itm/P92-9042-3100-PACCAR-PETERBILT-BATTERY-CABLE-WIRE-HARNESS/361884197765?epid=504723081&hash=item5441faa385:g:FHIAAOSwopRYgOM2&vxp=mtr That's probably the easiest way and it is all assembly work without any harness building work. KWNW in Marysville could probably install it pretty easy as they've dealt with it all as options for almost 10 years now too. But I'm sure you can do it!
  2. They are a big fan out of little single wire connectors. Should be through the upper dash panel and come right out of the main harness bundle. Technically they are Packard 56 series but 1/4" spade fits. Couldn't find an internet pic of them, but did run across one of the brake light switch - even circled!
  3. You flip over the panel with the application gauge in it and the hose that goes in the back of the gauge is your hose. Don't cut it; you put a tee in the end of it and a new hose to your unit and another new one to your gauge. You don't have to go all the way to where it comes through the floor. Amazon yourself a good tee for in the dash: https://www.amazon.com/SMC-KV2T07-00-fitting-union-tee/dp/B00DD7BJS4/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1515645517&sr=1-2&keywords=KV2t07-00 If you don't want to tee that line then you can use your brake light switch down at the floor pass-thru. Take out the switch, put in a 1/4" NPT run tee, then put the switch back in. Look for this switch. It is not the pointy shaped Hobbs ones with the 1/4 slides on them. Those are the low air switches. For power you go to your spare power plugs in the middle of the cab/dash cavity and find the spare unswitched. Put a 1/4 slide spade into it and a fuse in the spare fuse # that matches the tag of the spare you used and you have power. You have 7 of these to hook random stuff to. If 20A isn't enough then you need to go to the circuit breaker right next door. Looks like this: Put a ring terminal on your power wire and put it on the "out" with the rest of the wires hooked to it. You now have power. Remember where this is because it is right next to your flasher. You'll be changing that every couple years. You'll see a whole bunch of wires going to a ground stud in there as well. Put your ground there. Any trailer harness stuff you make grounds here as well. If you pull power from the dash harness then it grounds to the dash harness. If you are putting the light converter in the sleeper then you pull the threshold cover off from the door, run the blue wire to the side, around your intake tubes, down the cowl, across the threshold, and into that toolbox. I guess you could chop a hole in the floor to run a fat green trailer cable in as well, but the Peterbilt harness in the other thread keeps it all inside the cab and routes the same way as the blue wire. Yes you are going to play whack-a-mole with popped out gauges for a week afterwards and gauge backlights are gonna keep falling off for the life of the truck. That is the nature of the beast not being computer controlled and full optioned. There's wires and hoses. Lots of them. They're all that way. For the controller, Peterbilt would just use a self tapper or five. A KW would have an AVK and a locktited screw. If velcro works, no harm in that. You are a machinist man, you can drill a pilot hole without poking too deep at full speed. Nothing different here. The big connectors and mass of wires is at the bottom with just some random wires in the middle. The reason it is so daunting is cuz you aren't ready to harness just yet. Make us a list of what all is going in and where it is going to mount. Then we can figure the wires and best way to get signals to where they need to be.
  4. Alternative energy trucks

    Some e-TV watching for y'all.... ZECT: Toyota Hydrogen: (had nothing to do w/ KW except the glider) Autonomous: (not really alternative energy, but was a suggested vid that was interesting.)
  5. Chevy volt battery questions

    The part I am talking about is just the 12V part, and trying to solve the specs J-T has here without plugging into a wall. You have the pumps above and you have a generator that needs to be started which are both high draws and short duration. Then add to it Jack doesn't want a battery for it because, well, it already is all running off a bigger battery. They make 48-12 converters that do this but they are real low amperage so you parallel them up. Automotive solves this problem next year with road hardened converters that are big enough to do it all with a single unit. You just can't buy them yet. They are bi-stable as well so they cover the 12V to 48V vehicle charging requirement above too (whether they cover a NMC would have to be figured out). They still package with a single 12v battery (the Wandler in my pic above) but I suspect that after a few years of tuning that will go away. I've seen some LiPO ones already tooled up. So I suspect for the next year you'll need some kind of buffer for the short duration large loads. Whether it be a bunch of batteries or you add an Ultracap that can charge itself off a single small DC-DC converter. Maybe even the current ESM with the charger already built in. You lose some capacity but it is all packaged up in a grp 31 box. Major advantage of the ultracap is that you can use it up and be all ready to go again in 10-15 minutes off just a 25A DC-DC converter. You'll be charging for a couple hours with a battery setup. Major drawback is that if you are off on the math then you gotta go take lunch when your trailer stops leveling halfway through! I don't think AC units are part of this, yet. I'm sure a Volt battery or two could cover it but I suspect you'll need to hook up the cooling part of them, which is another whole system to figure out. The 48 volt stuff is worth investing the time in to figure something out for the future. You really don't want to go to the high voltage hybrid parts and deal with the HVIL loop and all the CAN and all of that complex stuff that comes with. 48V keeps you under that and it won't be long till every car you buy has that system on it so there will be parts galore to make systems out of. An RV mfgr isn't going to spend the $2M to tool up special converters right off the start, but let the cars do it and buy them as service parts later. Now, whether your truck will have 48V still remains to be seen. Auto-Neutral with your Ultrashift is one thing, but 80K of engine off coast like the cars are gonna do is a whole other ballgame!
  6. Chevy volt battery questions

    We've done it with a couple of Sevcon's on the bench for an hour long demo Jack but not in real life on a transient truck, so I'm not too sure. But hey if you got em already might as well try them! It was also for three PWM controlled scavenge pumps for the cooling oil for a traction motor and they did have to make some inrush limiter and software ramp up like Steve posted. In reality as soon as they spun it up for the first time it shot ATF across the shop from a hose screwup so I had to tend to that while they figured out their motors and converters and I missed most of what they did. So I might not be too relevant. Those three pumps were the bain of the electrical guys for a good long time so you are in good company! The new automotive converters go both ways as buck & boost, which is another benefit they have. Barring being able to get one of those for the next year we'd probably attempt a 12V ultracap where you can charge at 25A for 10 min and then hope it has enough oomph to make it through a jack cycle (well, don't hope but do the math). They started making large 48V ones now too that might be useful as a big buffer when the heavy users go 48V too. You don't want to burn through half your battery charge just to make a trailer level!
  7. If it helps for wiring, you can buy Peterbilt harness # 16-08101-06700. You unplug your white plug on the firewall (your trailer connections) and plug this one in. The new harness is just the six ring terminals without the trailer plug. This one can be run inside the cab and you can skip one of the holes in the floor. The ring terminals bolt to the input of the light converter and route it right along with however you'd route your brake controller line you have to make. If you want it outside and still want to keep your two trailer connectors as stock then order harness 16-08396. Same story with the white plug and it is the same trailer harness you already have but it has a breakout with the six ring terminals on it. Replace what you have now with this one and all the splices to get to the light converter are done for you. One thing you have that isn't on all the other trucks is the ISO 3731 plug. Your ABS power is on the center pin of the yellow plug and not the black one. You still have aux power in the center of the black but it isn't the 50A of clean power that a black only truck would have. I don't know if that maxes a difference or not. If you do need those circuits and use the ring terminal harnesses then you need to get two of the 08101 harnesses and click the two blue lines into the empty cavities of the white connector. If you need the 50A aux power and want to use a trailer coil cord then I'm not sure how you'd do it. Buy a green coily and a yellow coily and run them both through the floor and into a converter?
  8. This one is a double check, AKA shuttle valve. Its purpose in air-brake life is to send out the higher of the two pressures, so that way if you have a circuit failure then the higher side air still goes out (ie: you still have trailer brakes). This valve is already inside the tractor protection valve on tractors so you don't need to add it. There is a double checked port on the TP valve you would plumb to which is used by the application gauge if equipped. On straight trucks, who would usually be the ones to use electric trailer brakes, you don't have a tractor protection valve and you have to make up a double check shuttle setup yourself, which is what is in the instructions. Now all that said, the old Peterbilt most likely doesn't use a tractor protection valve with the port in it. The same thing is accomplished with a series of check valves plumbed into the floor mounted treadle. If the truck has an air app gauge then use that with a regular ol DOT tee and no double check. Getting to the fittings of a floor treadle absolutely blows.
  9. Chevy volt battery questions

    Using a 12V battery is perfectly legit. In fact that is how 48V automotive is done. The 3KW 48-12 converter is in its infancy so far. Everybody has designed one but few make em yet. They will be everywhere by this time next year. So the Sensata is probably the only off the shelf unit for now. 48V is pretty cutting edge so it isn't cheap. Once the 2019 Audi R8 comes out this fall you can probably just go down to your Audi dealer and get a 3KW converter.
  10. Alternative energy trucks

    Ya, that is kind of the unspoken part of the "electric highway". Sure it puts you in full electric mode right in the heart of the Port of LA where all the trucks queue, but it also puts a 20 mile buffer (if they get it built that far) on your route. Your range can vary by 18 miles (ambient is the fuel cell killer) and if you can get to the power lines you put your catenary up and it gets you the buffer you need to get the electric charged while still moving along the queue. Everybody truck-wise knows that the future of regional trucks is electric. The near term trucks will need to be range extended. As an OEM you don't know what the fuel du jour is going to be so you make it agnostic. Give me three orange wires and I'll make your truck move. It is all about brackets and software. The grant is both Hydrogen and CNG, just the Hydrogen came first. The CNG is easy, build a glider with a Near-Zero CNG engine, bolt on a SAE2 generator, flash some software, then go about the electric business. (as-if....lol) This stuff has come a long way though. The grants for the truck two years ago was just to build the truck, drive it around some, tow it home from failed plans a good 25 times, then throw it all away. This one steps it up a bit to build it, run it for a year, then junk it. Lots has been tooled into actual truck parts in the last two years and they go together a whole heck of a lot easier. The parts guys at my Chevy and Toyota dealers here are still trying to figure me out when I waltzed in to get 36 gallons of Volt inverter coolant and 12 gallons of Murai fuel cell stack coolant. But they figured it out and a week later they had it all in and ready to go. Couldn't have done that two years ago. But trust me, autoshifting an electric motor still ain't for the faint of heart - one missed keystroke and 30HP, 100 RPM, and 1400 torque will pretzel the truck in ways you don't want to see..... The e-axles time will come, but adding 200lbs of unsprung weight takes years of study. Or static mounting the assy and using CV joints on a truck takes study too. If you have a new truck clean sheet then it is all part of your program, but for the rest of us it all will just have to come in time. It'll have to happen sometime, however, as regional LTL is an important part of electric trucks but right now you can't make a driveshaft short enough and have to mount a brokeback shortie that keeps your wheelbase relatively long. Hydrogen trucks use carbon fiber tanks in a cabinet that is real similar to a CNG cabinet. It fills on H70 but is about 10 times the 5kg of your Murai's and Traverses. So far I've only filled with a test trailer that uses all of the industrial stuff with the filler with all the knobs and levers like CNG. Supposedly the truck side works with the infared comms and plastic filler handle at the consumer hydrogen stations but I don't know yet. I have two nights at Harris Ranch with it in February to find out. Will be interesting to see how the water exhaust does in a drier climate too. Right now I swear I suck enough water out of the air to make it stop raining in Seattle! Still, no matter who you are, you gotta take a ride in 80,000 lbs of electric truck going 60 mph........ It is something else!
  11. Alternative energy trucks

    Go to the CES show in a couple weeks and you can see our hydrogen electric truck up close and personal. Weighed 23K when it hit the road last week.
  12. BluDot adjust brake pressure & maintenance

    The relay valve installed already has a 4.5psi crack (check its part #) so there will be no change in that regard. LQ-4 will change the brake bias though. Maybe ditch the RV-1 and put a 1000 psi proportioning valve on the hydraulic side?
  13. Jackalopee question, brake/turn signal off

    I know building a 3 relay powered one it flashes trailer alternate with the brake lights on. Quite the light show.
  14. BluDot adjust brake pressure & maintenance

    Yea I'm thinkin that is pretty much how it is gonna be with that valving. Emergency braking is gonna be on/off only and depend on the truck red knob and not do it on their own. 'Course maybe everybody already knew that and I just figured it out, ha. I still think the limiters need to be in the control lines, but that is contrary to a lot of installs. Anybody know why the whole tank is limited? Something not working right when plumbed in the control lines?
  15. BluDot adjust brake pressure & maintenance

    Sorry, I forgot that you guys don't use Relay Emergency Valves. You use emergency control valves, which I think just actuate from tractor supply knob and not directly from low air, which ultimately gives you a lot more leeway than I was originally thinking. When you had low air did they lock down before red knob popped out? Or when the red knob popped out? So I guess being valved that way you don't really have a holdoff pressure, but still limiting the whole tank to 70 doesn't seem right. You lose out on a whole lot of applications that way and are really relying on truck air flow to get back there. Seems you would keep the tank at system pressure and then put the RV-1 in the control line of the relay valve (or delivery port of emergency control valve - same thing) and do your limiting there. You have full system pressure of storage but there is no way that it can apply more than 70 lbs to the chamber. I was also wrong on ratio REV's earlier - I forgot trailer ratio valves ratio UP so you don't want to do that. Makes things worse! So put your LQ-4 in the control side of the relay and limit applications there. So you end up ratio-ing the trailer lower until 50-60, then it blends back to tractor application pressure, then RV-1 caps it at 80 (or 70 if readjusted per this thread). I also remembered that Sealco makes a 0 PSI crack "signal booster" valve that looks exactly like their relay valve. Maybe that was the trouble with the trailer that needed a crack pressure? Wrong valve was shipped? A zero crack relay would make for a pretty hyper trailer!