WILDEBILL308

Well I hope the OP read and uses this link. If he is parked for long periods of time he needs a biocide. Bill

Does having the hot water run out when in the shower count? Bill

I wonder if the OP Funster101 got his problem solved. Wanted to point out that if he needs to air up the system, air bags and breaks there is normaley a air fitting on the front firewall. This is what the tow truck uses to add air to the system. I think his problem is fuel / fuel filter related. I would look at the Diesel Kleen website. This is the only additive recommended by Cummins. https://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-kleen-cetane-boost/ Bill

Well I was in Cal. last week. The Love's in Tulare was $6.489 with TSD it was $0.30 cheaper and it was 20% Bio. Later stopped at the Petro in Eloy $5.359 saved $0.76 off that with EFS card. Bill

Why don't you talk to the people in the office. They have the most up to date info. Bill

Keep an eye on the sites I linked to. Personally the best place to buy is NIRVC. When you are looking at a RV don't just walk through. Stop sit down see how it feels, think how it would be doing the basic things. Let me know if you have any questions. Bill

Looking for a update. Bill

2gypsies, What RV are you talking about that didn't have slides till 2017? My last RV a a 38N Bounder had 3 slides and one was in the bead room and it was 2003. Jinx & Wayne, You are going to be full timing and have some things you are looking for. You said "The captain's and navigator's chairs should swivel (and recline?) so that the cab area is not dead space when stopped. A queen bed or bigger is a must. NO DINETTE is a high priority. Counter space in the kitchen that doesn't involve the need to cover the stove and sink to chop veggies would be nice. Tanks that will support more than a week of boondocking with reasonable water conservation are necessary." I don't know of a diesel pusher that the front seats don't pivot. If you like the rest of the coach the dinette can be changed. I have a drop leaf table instead of a dinette. If you don't want to do the work I know people who can do it. You said "We want to stay under 35'" Why when you are full time? All the things you are looking for are what you give up in a short coach. There are maney more used 38-40 foot coaches out there. Explain to me how 5' makes a big difference? You can't tell when you are driving it. When looking look at angle of wheel cut and wheel base they make more difference. Just so you know I have ben traveling in a RV full time and part time since before Y2K. I was in all the lower 48 states more than 2 times (some many more than that), in my last 38' coach and never had a time I couldn't find a place to park. I have been to most of the National parks and a bunch of state parks. We upgraded to a 45' coach and last year was in 21 states (you only count a state the first time you enter) We stayed in 51 campgrounds. drove 11,600 miles. Just a fun fact. I was doing some research on the new to me 45' coach and discovered the wheel base is 6" shorter than the 38'. Some outher things to look for. I like a side radiator for ease of acess to the engine. I also like my generator on a slide out. I also like a tag axle coach for the stable ride/drive. Your wife would like a coach with a Oasis system for the unlimited hot water. Heare are a couple to look at. https://www.motorhomesoftexas.com/--xInventoryDetail?id=11230424 If you want power to get over the mountains this is 600 hp coach. https://www.motorhomesoftexas.com/--xInventoryDetail?id=11406066 Next https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used-rvs-for-sale/diesel-motorhomes/2004-monaco-executive_rv-48778 If you get the chance I encourage you to drive a Newmar with "Comfort Drive" It automatically compensates for cross winds and passing traffic turbulence. Let me know what you think. Bill

Ok then, tell us how that works out for you. Bill

Sounds good. I was thinking your pop off valve has a bad gasket. You tried to create a air pocket several times and it didn't hold it. Welcome to the forum. Bill

The problem is you have to prove you did the required maintence. Bill

So once again we have those who wanted facts are now in a river in Egypt. You know De Nile. If 3000 mile makes you feel so good you should do 1500 mile changes. think how good the oil would feel then. For those interested in facts I do a annual oil sample on the engine and transmission. If I see something that I want to watch closer I will do more frequent samples. Bill

Without doing a oil sample you can't tell anything. You can't feel the where metals in the oil as they are in parts per million. Bill

These type of threads are always fun because of the diverse opinions. Hear is my opinion based on my experience and background. Yes I have actual training and ran a oil analysis lab when in the AF. First the oil of today is not the oil your grandfather used. The oil companies love those who still believe in the 3000 mile oil change. Dirty little secrets oil does not where out. Oil becomes contaminated and the additive package is depleted. The engines of today run many times cleaner than those your Grandfather had or even your father. First thing is if you are under warranty follow the manufactures instructions to the letter and have documentation. Now for those who want to extend their change intervals (low use or just extend it) I would start a oil sampling program. The big thing I see is at least 2 people talking about taking a sample when you drain the oil. This is the wrong way to do it for a couple of reasons. 1 when you take the sample from the oil stream draining out you are prone to get contaminates swept up by the fast moving oil off the bottom of the pan. This will give you a false reading. 2) you need to pull the sample with a little vacuum pump (you can buy them from the website) and a tube down the dipstick tube, being carful to not hit bottom and suck up contaminants. I use the length of the dipstick as a guide on how long to cut the tube and mark it. The reason you do this and have the results back BEFORE you drain your oil is if you get a false reading like really hi iron or al. you want to do a re test to verify the results. If you have dumped the oil you have no way to verify weather it was correct or not. In the example Kirk W posted if his Were really hi the only alternative would be to borescope the cylinder's or do a teardown to see what was going wrong. As it is he needs to find out why he has so much fuel in the oil. Bill

Yes they are called slam latches, but they don't do well when used that way. On my Bounder I found the best way was to shut the door while holding the latch open. then release it while holding the door closed. I would try soaking them with WD-40 and seeing if you can't pull the latch/plunger part out. I had more problems with the end breaking off than sticking. Look carefully and see if they still have the tapered part. Bill