NeverEasy

Need a year/make/model of the truck. Jackalopee installed?

I fixed one this past ECR that had the same issue. If it is the same, you have a bad connection to ground for the dash. To test, find yourself about 8ft of #12 wire. Attach one end to the ground stud for the CB radio. Attach the other end to the ground bar on the batteries. This test will not hurt. It will just parallel a ground that should be there. Chet

IMHO, this thread should go away. The topics discussed herein are too specific to be in a thread by only one name, thereby, making it harder to search for a single act. It is almost like only having one thread for the whole HDT site. Chet

Thanks, Phil D. I should have thought of that. I use PWM to control the speed and output of a cat feeder I designed with an Arduino chip. Sure would like to have put a o-scope on Carl's truck. Could have gained useful info to pass on. Cheers! Chet

Damn, I wanted the resistor! Happy to hear it worked. I would not be surprised if it quits again. Handling the motors sometimes jolts the brushes and they make contact until they wear down again. On the positive side, the resistor is not likely to fail and then come alive again. And it could have been just bad connector contacts. Use some DeOxIt. https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-LABORATORIES-D100L-25C-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B0000YH6F8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1JNJMWSHW16H5&keywords=cramoline+electrical+contact+enhancer&qid=1655343304&sprefix=cramoline+electrical+contact+enhancer%2Caps%2C50&sr=8-4

For $100 it would be far less expensive just to replace it. If I pop a code on a vehicle, I will not take it to the dealer. They just swap parts. If the particular part did not fix it, they won't take it off and put the old back on. They charge you for all the parts whether or not you need them. I can do that myself. New Navy technical solution: Swap till you drop. Had to borrow that from the Air Force. Army still sends it back to the Depot and gets a new one. Marines ask the Navy to fix it. ☺️ Now, about that "resistor". If you look at the side of it are there not two diode symbols on it? Now, let's count connector pins. One is ground, One is 12VDC straight off the 30 amp fuse. That leaves two pins. One must go to the motor drive and one must go to motor ground. How could you get speed control within the "resistor". IMO, Speed control must be coming from the large Climate Control Unit to the left by dropping the voltage on the motor drive. Note that the schematic shows 5 wires going to the Blower Control. Perhaps the ground or power to the motor are shared. That would leave 2 pins for control. Perhaps then a binary signal from Climate Control Unit sends signals such as" 00 off 01 low speed 10 medium speed 11 High speed I really wish I was in TN! This problem sounds like a hoot and a good learning experience. And still, you need to test the fan motor. You stated you were going to replace it anyway. But you need to know if it was the problem. 1. If it does not work then replacing it only would be a good option. 2. If it does work then you can believe it is a problem before the fan. Replacing the fan on GPs and the resistor would be a good option. Carl, can you send pictures of the wiring harness to the resistor and motor? That would help.

On your picture above, I see one connector. Is there one I can't see? Your testing is sound if this is a purely resistive component. On the Gen 1, the resistor is simply a set of very large wire wound resistors. Those resistors have to dissipate a whole lot of heat. Therefore, I find it difficult to see that the relatively small "resistor" package will be able to do that. The heat sinks on the back lean me towards something else is goin go. I am thinking there may be active components something like some high power Zenner diodes that control the voltage to the fan. Put the meter in the Ohms scale that has a diode next to it. Touch the leads together to show that you have near zero ohms. Do your test again and then reverse the meter leads and try again. Testing the motor should be straight forward. Put 12 volts on the orange lead and ground on the black. Should rotate in the direction of the arrow. You can hold the motor. Just tap on of the wires to see rotation. Otherwise clamp it in something to hold it. Those squirrel cage fans will present a lot of torque.

Try this provider: https://www.truckac.com/blower-assembly-fasco-2809-820-021-t2480.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIycay76Om-AIVqwOzAB0NwwfPEAQYBCABEgJdaPD_BwE See if they can match one up to your truck. Can't find anything on the resistor. Might have to go OEM.

Excellent! Deb and I would like to make that trip in 2024 also. It has been on our bucket list for a long time. Maybe we can get some other HDT folks to go. That would be a hoot!

What Glenn West said is a good idea if you have the equipment on hand. Not many do. And if your system has leaks, your new charge will disappear in short order. Find a friend! Your system may already be out of freon if you did not get a can in there before giving up. Dumping a lot of refrigerant into the atmosphere from a big truck has never been my idea of good protection of the environment. Take it to a shop and have it evacuated. Cost me $223 four years ago. Probably twice that now. Now I have a full set of hvac maintenance gauges and hoses so I can use it to add freon or air and control it while watching both the low side and high side of the system. I also bought a nitrogen bottle to air up the truck tires and charge the ac system with dry nitrogen. More $. By dumping the system to the atmosphere, you have exposed the entire system to plan ole air. No big deal, the vacuum pump will clear it when ready. Checking for leaks before continuing. Build a shop air adapter to connect to the low pressure charging port. Use a regulator to pressurize the system to 100-125 p.s.i. Get some bubble soap and start spraying all the tubes and connections you can find. Don't forget the bunk station if so equipped. Fix leaks, re-test, fix leaks, re-test. No sense in dumping expensive freon into a leaking system (which you have or you would not be re-charging). Small leaks can go a couple of years before a need to recharge. Here is an idea. Don't dump the system until you have searched for leaks. Assuming your can of freon has a gauge on it, with the truck off, connect the can to the low pressure port. Don't pull the can's lever to charge! Read the pressure. With the engine off and therefore the ac pump not running, the high pressure side should be dumping pressure to the low pressure side and therefore, if there is any freon in the system it should show something above 45 p.s.i. If not, the system is almost empty anyway. Now, don't dump the system, yet. Make the shop air adapter and with a regulator, bring up the pressure to 100-125 p.s.i. I used a hose off an old can of refrigerant and inserted a valve in the line between the shop air adapter and the low pressure connector. That let me air up the system to 125 p.s.i, close the valve, and see if it starts dropping pressure. If it does, do the stuff in the paragraph above. This is a link to repair to my Volvo system in 2018. It is still holding. Re-charging it involves having a vacuum pump (a heavy duty one that will run for hours) or there is an air type (inexpensive) that works with a compressor that will work for hours.. At that point, you are probably well ahead to take it to a shop to be done due to the vacuum pump expense.

I agree with spindrift and Mr. Cob. Keep on marching. Now if our health will release us we would be on the road. We call it "fuel averaging". We have to stay in one place long enough that the cost per day for fuel is averaged over the whole trip. Harder to justify a short trip. To do a trial run, I set of to go to the mid-west. A trip out and back of 1680 miles (840 *2) for two weeks. I put in fuel, CG stays along the route, food for 2 weeks, fuel for Smart, and CG for two weeks. Then, I flew from Norfolk to St Louis. I put in flight for two, hotel cost for 2 weeks, car rental, and eating out every day. I assumed cost for entertainment to be the same for both ways so that did not enter into my spreadsheet. Driving the truck out at today's prices and staying for 14 days is an average cost per day of $205 Flying out for 14 days has an average daily cost of $490. Cutting the trip down to a week: Driving - $303/day Flying - $668/day Driving/flying half the distance and staying for 14 days Driving $165/day Flying was a bit ambiguous. Flying places within 450 miles costs more than long flights into the mid-west. Costs then would be at least $668/day or more. Results: !. Short driving distance saves money. 2, Staying longer cuts down the avg daily cost About $100/day saved at 14 days ($205) vs. 7 days ($303) 3. Flying is expensive. And no amount of money equates to the joy of driving these rigs and having our own place to stay.

Thanks for the correction! R134A. Post edited and corrected.

If you are outside the truck, watch the clutch on the front of the compressor. If the forward part in front of the belt is turning, the compressor is running. Note that the compressor will not run if there is not enough refrigerant in the system to get pressure. Nor will the system pull in refrigerant because the pressure at the low port is too high when the compressor is not running. You might need to force it to run to get enough in the system to start the upload. Remove the two pronged connector on the compressor. Jumper the pins. The compressor should engage. Start filling. After 30 seconds, remove the jumper and put the connector back on the compressor. Hopefully, there will be enough refrigerant to get pressure and the compressor will cycle on/off on its own. Watch the pressure on the can's gauge. Use this chart https://rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart to see what kind of pressure is good on the LOW side for the ambient air temperature. Open the truck doors and set the fan and temp to max AC. If the compressor does not cycle on its own, repeat the jumper routine for a few more seconds. While filling, rotate the can about 45 degrees side-to-side in the upright position. Caution: I believe you would be using R123A refrigerant. DO NOT turn the can upside down while filling. If you do, a liquid slug will pass into the compressor locking it up. Belts will scream and things will break.

IMO, Progressive Dynamics is the only way to go with the PD 9200 series. https://www.progressivedyn.com/ I have a PD9240C in the truck and a PD9260C in the RV. They do come with a "charge wizard" to show the charging rate but you do not need to connect it. No need to do anything but hook it up.

Some good points by others. I really feel that the tube is not going into the o-ring and that is why you have varying results in seal. I would use silicone grease for lube but specifically, no petroleum products (softens plastic). Still think measuring the depth w/o collet and o-ring is a start. Might even leave the collet off, insert the o-ring and then insert the tube. When you pull it out, the o-ring better be up on the tube. Another thing. Replacing the whole pass-through would be my last choice. Take a close look at the black connector with the green hose. Are there six sides for a socket at the bottom? Still think it is removable. Available on Amazon. Ok, still no joy? Make your own pass-through hole. I would try to insure it is a straight pass through from the firewall side to the inside, meaning no channels in the pass-through feeding some unknow port. Take the firewall side off. Drill a hole through big enough for the tube to pass through. Push either side through to the other side and couple with a straight thru connector. If the existing tube is not long enough to reach the other side, use a new, short piece. Put straight thru connectors on both sides.

Without being there, I don't know where to begin. Brainstorming here. 1. Perhaps the wrong size o-ring? Make sure it slides over the tube with minimal expansion but no air gap either. 2. Tube not going in far enough? Remove the collet and the o-ring. Push the tube into the hole and mark the tube where you can see how far it penetrates the hole. Re-insert parts and try again. Tube should go in the same amount as test fit. 3. No seal around the o-ring on the pass-through hole vs around the tube? More cleaning. I assume the leaking tube is the green one in your picture on the original post. That connection looks significantly different than the two below it. Is that black connector removable?

Might try this to clear all the pieces and trash. Remove the collet and as much of the o-ring seen. Wear googles! Fire up the truck and put your finger over the hole. When you can't hold it anymore, remove finger. See what blasts out. 🙂 Chet

Don't understand how you could put in a new o-ring without removing the collet. The collet has fingers that will collapse when there is no line inserted. It comes out fairly easy. Just rock it a little while gently pulling. I have some collets that were already broken and had to be replaced. This video will help: quick connect air line fittings repair - Video Search Results (yahoo.com)

Here is some good info. Available on Amazon.

Carl, What was the fuse number. The stuff I sent you earlier was Gen I info and would not apply to you (I think). I looked at the Gen II schematics and there is a lot of difference. My guess is that the fuse is the Climate Control Fuse, F47, 30 amp. That feeds the "Blower Control" unit and I can't find a blow-up of it. If you let me know the Fuse # and type of fuse I will tell you how to check the DC current draw with your DC clamp-on meter.

What dennisvr said is true of the AC power. 12 VDC comes from Maxi Fuse 5, a 40 amp fuse. One of those big babies. That is feed down wire #150 and directly to the AC/Heater blower motor. Ground is the controller. The motor speed is determined by the selector switch (or auto climate control if equipped) feeding ground to one of four places. Wire 161 feeds ground directly to the fan motor for max speed. Wire 155 is low, 159, and 156 are speeds between low and high. I had to replace my fan motor some years back. It was not that difficult. Care should be taken with routing wires to prevent hitting the fan. Now, as I remember, when I dropped the cover on the passenger side, the set of resistors that the speed control uses to control speed were right there. Check voltage on 14-C for 12VDC. Then check ground on 2-D with the selector to max air. If those are there and the fan does not blow then the fan is likely bad. You could jumper 12 VDC and ground to the motor but use large wires. Fused at 40 amps, the fan will likely draw 20. Schematics available if you need to see them. I might mention, though not relative to this discussion, one other control circuit that uses ground for control is the windshield wipers. Chet

Yep, I don't come by my NeverEasy handle by choice! Home Depot has some "rubber" tape that bonds itself to itself when you stretch it. Works much better than the traditional vinyl tape. Usually the hardest part on the Gen 1 Volvo is finding the Reverse Light wire. Unlike the other wires that went to the truck's trailer connector, the Reverse Light wire runs down the passenger side of the truck.

Check the red wire. Put a DC voltmeter or simple test light on the red wire and one end on ground. With no brakes, there should be no voltage. With brakes there should be battery voltage or the light on a test light should light bright.

Mr. Cob OK, fixed. Just remember that the ground is the only return path for the BLUE wire to the trailer. Electrically, it is the same as a bad crimp on the BLUE wire (trailer brakes). If in doubt, cut a piece of 10 awg wire (preferably white) long enough to go from a screw on the cover of the Hayes to a screw or bolt in the metal part of the dash. Crimp yellow ring crimp connectors to both ends and attach. Hope this finds you well. Health problems on this end are keeping us grounded. Hating missing the ECR but such is life. Chet

Mr. Cob, you still having problems?