NeverEasy

I use the air from the sliding hitch release. The air is controlled by a switch on the dash. Assuming your original truck hitch has been removed, try mashing the switch and see if you hear air at the rear.

Easy to see if the dash ground is the problem. Had this happen to a friends '98 Volvo. Get a piece of 12 or 14 AWG wire. Connect one end to the battery negative. Connect the other end to the negative on the CB terminal post. Try to start again. Chet

Yep, stuff happens. I built this just in case and it did happen. What I don't have is a picture of the drag marks in the words in front of the drop preventer when it did happen. Saved my bacon.

Carl, This is how simple it is to add a Wireless Remote Controller to your setup. The receiver could be mounted in your solenoid cover but I would not. You only need 4 wires. Use a standard set of 4-pin flat trailer wire connectors. Attach the mostly female wires end to the contactor (always use white for ground on both ends). Splice the wires on the mostly male end to the wireless receiver wires. Then when not in use, unplug the receiver and store it. I do recommend disconnecting it when not in use. The receivers are very common and someone near you night gain control of your winch. You can still use your cabled remote. The receivers are all over Amazon. I currently have 4 of them installed on various systems and oddly enough, none interfere with the others. https://www.amazon.com/Wsays-Wireless-Control-Compatible-Recovery/dp/B09VG8XHF9/ref=sr_1_16?crid=3PBWXHMZKYI1Y&keywords=wireless+winch+remote&qid=1682292237&sprefix=wireless+winch+%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-16 Ignore that "Public" wire on the drawing. It just means it should already be installed by the customer. Argh! I just looked at Amazon for those 4-pin trailer connectors. All the ones I have used in the past have the odd pin (covered or not covered) as white. I see that some of them are green which has always been right turn in the past.

Carl, Just got home from working on a rental property all day. The only thing the winch contactor needs to work is a ground on the center pin of its three push-on connectors. 12VDC then will be applied to either of the two other push-on connectors to make it go in or out. Obviously, the remote connector in this drawing is a 7-pin. I don't know if the wire colors at that end are the same as your 5-pin remote cable. I will have to rely on you to meter it out and make sure the following is true BEFORE you connect the three small wires to the winch contactor. 1. The black wire (that would push onto the contactor) is ground. 2. The yellow wire gets 12VDC when you put the remote to OUT. 3. The blue wire gets 12VDC when you put the remote to IN. I have looked at other drawings of the setup. Not that this is an issue, but those drawings shows the F1 and F2 leads swapped IAW your drawing. Not to worry, if the winch goes in the opposite direction from the direction you chose on the remote, just swap the two little outside wires on the contactor solenoid. On your drawing, it shows the ground wire to the remote attached to the battery negative post. It would be just as good to connect it to the ground lug on the winch. The "circle with the red dots" on your drawing is either the positive post of the battery or an isolator switch. An isolator switch is a good idea on powerful winches. On the old solenoids, they were prone to weld the internal solenoid contacts together due to arcing at very high amps. If that happens, you lose control of the winch. It will keep going in the direction is was traveling when the arc welding occurs. You can't stop it very quickly and it could cause some major damage. Look at the drawing on the Amazon ad showing the contactor. Note the isolator switch between the battery post and the 12VDC input post on the contactor. Also know that an isolator will need to handle 500 amps. Here is one on Amazon: Amazon.com: Witproton Battery Disconnect Switch 12V-48V Battery Power Cut Master Switch for Car, Vehicle, RV and Boat (on-Off high Current) : Automotive I kind of like a drawing from YouTube. However, neither has your 5-pin remote cable. To operate the winch, the remote only requires a 12 VDC input, the wires going out to the IN and OUT terminals and a switch to direct the 12VDC back to the contactor on either the IN or OUT terminals. All the other signals are appear to be there to light the LED on your Remote Controller. Here is the drawing I hacked up to add the isolator and get rid of some Print Screen junk. It only has four wires (one ground is missing. Chet

Just one. There are videos on YouTube of some who have replaced the old type solenoids. Search for "albright solenoid for warn winch"

Carl, I would not replace the solenoids with the standard solenoids. I would switch to a winch contactor solenoid relay. Albright seems to have the best reviews. Available on Amazon for $75. Rated at 500 amps. Yours only pulls 435 at max load. In the "Technical Details" it shows 800 amps but that load max have a maximum time to run at that amperage. Dimensions are: 3.24 x 3.84 x 2.61 inches if you need to make sure it will fit. Amazon.com: 500 Amp Winch Contactor Solenoid Relay for 6000 to 18,000 lb Winches Fits Warn (12V) : Automotive Simple wiring setup. Certain you can use your current remote. If you go this route, it would give you the option of adding a wireless remote controller for about $20. I have wireless remotes on my Volvo winch for loading the Smart, 5th wheel slides and front legs. Qook Wireless Winch Remote Control Kit for Truck Jeep ATV SUV 12V Switch Handset (amazon.com) Cheers! Chet

Ship them by freight. Not as expensive as you may think. Free estimates online.

I believe there are replacement parts for the solenoids. I will have to look into that and find out if they will handle the 435 amps load of the M8000. I doubt you would see much need for the full load capability unless you were stuck in the mud.

Carl, https://nc4x4.com/forum/threads/warn-winch-wiring-diagrams.108597/ I have been searching for a wiring diagram. The link above is the best I can find so far. Those diagrams show several different configurations. By your picture, yours is a 5-wire remote. Scrolling down, I found a 5-wire system but there is also a 5-wire large frame drawing. And to confuse things more, below the 5-wire remote are some pictures of the remote controller switch, The number of wires does not make much sense to me and there are 4 pictures that have a label of "front side" and "back side" which means nothing to me either. To answer your question about using an "off-the-shelf" remote, I doubt they will work as most are 3-wire controllers. I would start by checking the solenoids as per the YouTube explanation. That test is without a load. Your statement that the remote controller intermittently clicks the relay sounds more like a relay problem to me. A big warning here. The YouTube video tests without a load. The 8000 pulls 435 amps at full load. Just because you get continuity across the polls at the very tiny current from the meter does not mean it will work at load rate currents. If the relay contacts have become pitted, the relay will click as it closes but it may be unable to pass enough voltage to the winch to make it turn. Math example: pitted contacts have created a .5 (1/2 ohm) ohms resistance across the polls. Your winch has nothing attached so it pulls only 20 amps. Voltage drop across the relay equals .5 x 20 or 10 volts. You only have a 12V system, so the winch sees 2.6 volts. The winch will not work. To check for such a problem, you need to check the voltage across each actuated relay UNDER LOAD. Not much load but the winch needs to be connected to the relays. You can probably tell which relay is actuated by sound or putting your finger on the relay and set the controller to in or out and mark the relays (should be two for each direction) as "in" or "out". Using that very nice meter I gave you, energize a relay and measure the voltage across those two big contacts on each relay. The voltage drop should be minimal. Maybe about .1 volts. If you see a big voltage drop, that relay has a problem. Another warning! If you do have a high resistance relay, high loads of current will cause a lot of heat. The above will also check the remote controller if the relays do energize. If you want to check the remote controller, disconnect the 12V from the system. Remove the cover of the Remote. Expose the backside of the remotes connector. Hopefully, the wire color remains true from remote to the remote connection. Check continuity from one to the other. Now, on the remote controller, figure out which wires are connected to which other wires when the switch is placed in "in" or "out". As a hint, all switches i have played with works such that if he switch lever is pointed to one side of the switch, the center contacts are connected to the contacts on the other side from where the switch lever is pointed.

Carl, this might be a good place to start. There is a part 1 (check the winch) and part 2 (check the controller). Chet

If you still can't get to the link HERO Maker put above for Mark Bruss's files, PM me an email address and I will send you the pdf for the Engine ECU for the N14. Thanks Mark for putting the PDF up there. You might try switching browsers to get to Mark's files.

I did not have much luck with wireless so I cut the cable on the transmitter and extended it to the battery box on the trailer. Connected it to the running light closest to it so turning on the trailer lights turns on the camera. Same on the truck end. Cut the receiver cable and extended it to a plastic box on the hitch. Check out these posts. Some sound like they have had success. https://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/139353-wireless-back-up-and-hitch-camera-set-up/#comment-1020018 https://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/137103-back-up-camera-system/#comment-995775 https://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/128366-back-up-cam-and-tpms-ideas-please/

Yes, I had some difficult disconnects some were hard to get to. I made a set of tools to remove air lines. Used some rigid aluminum. At the end, I Drilled a hole the diameter of the air hose. Cut a slot to the hole just a bit less in width of the air line hose so that it pops over the hose. Mount on air line and push hard on the brass collet and then pull.

Agree with all that the OEM headsets are marginal. The headset does work better than the lights on the unit. I don't understand what GleenWest's problem might be. Bad Whisper? Need to run a test against a know working device. I have used mine at many rallies and found all sorts of leaks. The hardest were behind my own dash where it was hard to isolate the leak. The Whisper would hear it but it was too crowded with wires to isolate. Soap bubbles found them, however, the soap ran down the throttle wires and screwed up the potentiometer. Had to replace it. It also works to find air conditioner leaks if you have evacuated the freon and charged with 125 psi environmental air or nitrogen. Bragging here. A year ago my '01 Volvo would hold 125 psi for two days. At two weeks it dropped down to 90 psi. Not that good anymore. I need to sweep the truck again.

Did that the first time as I have done it before. Link goes to the site and gives error. https://i.imgur.com/SWhtR39.jpg "target=new"https://i.imgur.com/SWhtR39l.jpg "border=0"[/IMG][/URL] [IMG]https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.png[/IMG][URL=https://i.imgur.com/SWhtR39.jpg "target=new"]Click For Full-Size Image[/URL]. This worked with just the first part of the URL.

https://i.imgur.com/l81LgDBl.jpg If there are only two wires as shown in this schematic, it should not matter. It is just a switch, I will try to PM you with the full PDF. Chet That did not work to send picture. Watch for PM.

I use NP1. It might be as messy to use as Lexel but I have not used it. NP1 lasts forever and does not crack.

I am with Chad, too. I might add that I am towing with a 26 ft class A motorhome. Only been turned down once. Elkhart Co. / Middlebury KOA Holiday. The manager came out and told us we could not enter the park. Had trouble with HDTs in the past.

Just before the brake light air switch is the place to connect the Tee into that line. The truck brake lights come on whether you press the pedal or pull the Johnson bar. Open the dash and look for the air switch (almost center and forward) with two wires on one side and a air tube on the other. On the electrical side, one of the wires is a constant 12VDC. The other wire is switched when the air pressure closes the switch. Put a meter or test light on the wires. Find the side w/o 12VDC. Mash the brakes or pull the Johnson bar and see that 12VDC shows up. Then you know you are working on the right air switch. The switched side is also where you want to land the RED wire to the Hayes so if you use the Hayes override, it will turn on the brake lights. Merry Christmas to all! Chet

Air spring, cab: 8074629 https://www.hhrvresource.com/node/850.html is my write up on how to change those, the cross member, leveling valve, and shocks. The pdf with the parts breakout and part numbers is too big to fit here. PM me and I will try to send it to you. Might need to include your regular email address.

I have said this twice before and I don't know why the easiest way to isolate a ground problem is being ignored. Simply provide a good ground to the dash. Take a long piece of 12 or 14 AWG wire. Put one end directly under a nut on the battery negative bus bar. The other end should go on the CB radio Black connector on the dash. TEST starting. If it works then you can start looking for a bad ground.

Have not heard that you have tried this simple test: Hook a wire to the CB radio ground terminal. Hook the other end to the negative strip at the batteries. Try to start the truck.

Be sure to check the oil level in the crankcase. The float bowl overflow will also allow gas to flow into the intake manifold and then into one or both cylinder top ends and then leak past the rings into the crankcase. If enough leaks into the cylinder, it will lock up the engine like a stuck piston.

Did yours have no power at the dash when the key was turned on?