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NeverEasy

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    Virginia
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    HDT

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  1. The HHRV Resouce guide has a link to Dale Bruss's site where he has posted Gen 1 schematics. There are a couple of diagrams of the grounds . http://www.dmbruss.com/images/Schematics/GroundStuds.pdf http://www.dmbruss.com/images/Schematics/V5_PV776_370_99244_1_Grounding_VN_B5_99.pdf
  2. I am with rickeieio. My 2001 VNL660 showed the same symptoms after I sprayed soap on the pressure gauge lines over the throttle. Soap ran down the wires into the potentiometer. I think it cost $113 from Volvo. Could not buy just the pot. As I remember, two 10 mm head bolts hold the throttle to the floor. Easy fix. I still have the old one. Soap probably dried out and it might work. If you want, I check the potentiometer and send it to you if it looks good. On edit: The truck did not throw any codes.
  3. Got to this link: http://www.hhrvresource.com/node/179 I have yet to figure out the whole scheme of things but this is what I have found by looking. All of the below manuals are for a 2006 and seem to be a complete set of sorts. There are two electrical schematics for the 2006, seeming to be for different builds. The others on the above link are for other years but none newer than 2006. PV776-20043814 Electrical Schematics w/ Fuse and Relay designation PV776-20177347 Electricl Functional Description, Trouble Shooting and Service PV776-20047693 Parts and Wiring Harnes Locations/IllustrationIndex PV776-20175317 Electrical Schematics w/ Fuse and Relay designation In one of the Electrical Schematics manuals, look at the index to find what page the fuse listing is on. That page lists the fuse number, function, and page where the fuse will appear in a schematic of the function. Following the fuse listing is a listing for the relays. Hope this helps. Chet
  4. Have you tried the Resource Guide for Gen 2 Schematics? Pg 47, 48, 49 seems to be lighting.
  5. NeverEasy

    Bumper Pull Hitch

    It would have to stick out far enough to put the pin in. That would be a PITS (shin).
  6. NeverEasy

    Bumper Pull Hitch

    I used a hitch off a '84 Chevy 3/4 ton truck that I junked. It is a heavy duty hitch rated at 1600 lbs tongue weight/15,000 lbs towing. The side plates were bolted to the cross bar. Those came off and were given to RandyA. I cut some 1/2 inch plate to replace it with enough drop to make the hitch a reasonable height. As I remember, it had to be made narrower so it all got welded instead of reusing the bolt-on setup. The receiver sits on a 2 x 4 thick walled rectangular tube cross-member for additional support.
  7. NeverEasy

    Need Craft Help

    Oh dear, my decoder ring is broken. Can you be less cryptic?
  8. I am interested in your install. I bought an Onan 6.5 diesel and want to mount it back there. It is 30 long x 25 tall x 24 wide. Are you going to shock mount it in any way or will it be a rigid mount to the receivers? I noted you will use two receivers. I was thinking the one installed for tow-behind trailers and outside support arms sitting on the cross member. I have the base plate ready and contemplating the front and back needs for air-flow while running/weather while in transit. It probably will not happen until after the ECR. Chet
  9. Phil, I think this is what you are looking for. Chet
  10. A million wires? I'm in.
  11. Don't know how this works but we may fall into the mix if it is just a roadside pull-over. International Roadcheck is a 72-hour inspection blitz on commercial motor vehicles. Inspectors all across North America perform tens of thousands of roadside inspections and place a significant number of trucks and drivers out of service. https://www.thetruckersreport.com/inspection-blitz-alert-roadcheck-2019-announced/
  12. The fan motor for me, too. Replaced last year.
  13. I feel your pain, Carl! Getting old sucks!
  14. NeverEasy

    brake controller

    I have had two Hayes controllers. The first was as simple as they can get, a wire-wound resistor with a slide to pick off voltage. Sounds good but mine was so erratic it was not reliable. Cleaning and checking bolts did not help. Then I found out that the Hayes had been upgraded to an electronic controller. Works much better. I have a voltage/current monitor on the blue wire for the brakes. The current going to the drum electric brakes was a match to the voltage being sent. 13.1 volts send, 13.1 amps out. Sweet. That was reasonable since the 4 magnets in parallel presented 1 ohm resistance. Then I went to electric over hydraulic disc brakes by Dexter on the 5er. The Dexter hydraulic control box took only .8 (yes, eight tenths) of an amp to lock up the tires. However, the Hayes controller could not be limited to that low of amperage. I had to put in a mechanical limiter to keep the Hayes from giving the Dexter control box more than .8 amps. That consists of a small block of wood taped to the manual override knob. This is why "House" said the Hayes is not compatible with disc brakes. It is working for now but I don't like it.
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