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About NeverEasy

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  1. NeverEasy


    These folks provided my aluminum boxes. They are sturdy and waterproof. https://protech.net/ This site has stock and custom made: http://www.truckbox.com/underbodytrailertoolboxes.html Other folks have used this supplier: https://chandlerequipment.com/product-category/truck-and-trailer-accessories/underbody-toolboxes/
  2. NeverEasy

    MDT and HDT onwers

    The axle is removed by hitting the center with a sledge hammer. The axle recoil from the blow will break the seal and spring out. It works, I have done it.
  3. I have had the old and the new types on my truck. It is easy to distinguish which you have. The old style required a ground wire to be attached externally to the case. The new style has a white wire installed to use for ground. I have a DC digital volt and ammeter on the blue wire so I can see what goes to the trailer. The old-style power to the trailer came and went at different brake pedal pressure or manual push of the bypass. I opened it and cleaned the rheostat and wiper. It got better but still dropped out at times. I bought the new style and things got better for a while and then things started doing just about the same thing. The new one still has a rheostat but a much smaller version so it might need to be cleaned as well. At the National HDT Rally, I bought a new Max Brake Controller from another member and installed it and all is well now. You will not need the red wire unless you want it to turn on the truck brake lights when the trailer brakes come on. The red wire can be used to check for 12VDC going to the controller as it is attached to a copper contact such that any slight actuation of the device would cause brake lights to come on if attached. The connection for those contacts are right next to the 12VDC input wire. Also, the red LED on the controller will glow bright if the trailer is disconnected (open circuit voltage) at any braking level and intensity will increase with increased braking with the trailer connected. My suggestion: Check 12VDC in and, as Dave said, check the ground. The new style has a white wire for ground already included. However, that ground wire is too small of gauge to suit me. I would install another 12 AWG ground wire directly to the device anyway. Then buy some DexoIT Spray Contact Cleaner and clean the rheostat. As an alternative, clean with alcohol and then apply some DeoxIT Gold. DexoIT is expensive but only requires a small amount to work. It also works great on the trailer/truck connector. And a word to those who might want to go to disc brakes. The Hayes is not compatible with disc brakes. The gain of the Hayes is not controllable. It will lock up the disc brakes unless you can limit the output. Before the Max Brake install, I had to tape a block of wood to the manual control knob to stop it from going past the point where it locked up the trailer brakes.
  4. The HHRV Resouce guide has a link to Dale Bruss's site where he has posted Gen 1 schematics. There are a couple of diagrams of the grounds . http://www.dmbruss.com/images/Schematics/GroundStuds.pdf http://www.dmbruss.com/images/Schematics/V5_PV776_370_99244_1_Grounding_VN_B5_99.pdf
  5. I am with rickeieio. My 2001 VNL660 showed the same symptoms after I sprayed soap on the pressure gauge lines over the throttle. Soap ran down the wires into the potentiometer. I think it cost $113 from Volvo. Could not buy just the pot. As I remember, two 10 mm head bolts hold the throttle to the floor. Easy fix. I still have the old one. Soap probably dried out and it might work. If you want, I check the potentiometer and send it to you if it looks good. On edit: The truck did not throw any codes.
  6. Got to this link: http://www.hhrvresource.com/node/179 I have yet to figure out the whole scheme of things but this is what I have found by looking. All of the below manuals are for a 2006 and seem to be a complete set of sorts. There are two electrical schematics for the 2006, seeming to be for different builds. The others on the above link are for other years but none newer than 2006. PV776-20043814 Electrical Schematics w/ Fuse and Relay designation PV776-20177347 Electricl Functional Description, Trouble Shooting and Service PV776-20047693 Parts and Wiring Harnes Locations/IllustrationIndex PV776-20175317 Electrical Schematics w/ Fuse and Relay designation In one of the Electrical Schematics manuals, look at the index to find what page the fuse listing is on. That page lists the fuse number, function, and page where the fuse will appear in a schematic of the function. Following the fuse listing is a listing for the relays. Hope this helps. Chet
  7. Have you tried the Resource Guide for Gen 2 Schematics? Pg 47, 48, 49 seems to be lighting.
  8. NeverEasy

    Bumper Pull Hitch

    It would have to stick out far enough to put the pin in. That would be a PITS (shin).
  9. NeverEasy

    Bumper Pull Hitch

    I used a hitch off a '84 Chevy 3/4 ton truck that I junked. It is a heavy duty hitch rated at 1600 lbs tongue weight/15,000 lbs towing. The side plates were bolted to the cross bar. Those came off and were given to RandyA. I cut some 1/2 inch plate to replace it with enough drop to make the hitch a reasonable height. As I remember, it had to be made narrower so it all got welded instead of reusing the bolt-on setup. The receiver sits on a 2 x 4 thick walled rectangular tube cross-member for additional support.
  10. NeverEasy

    Need Craft Help

    Oh dear, my decoder ring is broken. Can you be less cryptic?
  11. I am interested in your install. I bought an Onan 6.5 diesel and want to mount it back there. It is 30 long x 25 tall x 24 wide. Are you going to shock mount it in any way or will it be a rigid mount to the receivers? I noted you will use two receivers. I was thinking the one installed for tow-behind trailers and outside support arms sitting on the cross member. I have the base plate ready and contemplating the front and back needs for air-flow while running/weather while in transit. It probably will not happen until after the ECR. Chet
  12. Phil, I think this is what you are looking for. Chet
  13. A million wires? I'm in.
  14. Don't know how this works but we may fall into the mix if it is just a roadside pull-over. International Roadcheck is a 72-hour inspection blitz on commercial motor vehicles. Inspectors all across North America perform tens of thousands of roadside inspections and place a significant number of trucks and drivers out of service. https://www.thetruckersreport.com/inspection-blitz-alert-roadcheck-2019-announced/
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