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About NeverEasy

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  1. I use a Progressive Dynamics 9240c converter, the same type (but smaller) as in my TT. It is a 4-stage charger. The truck batteries lasted 11 years. Also used the converter running off the generator when I lost an alternator in the middle of nowhere. Ran a total of 9 hours until I could get the alternator replaced. Could not run lights as the converter would not keep up. Therefore, I would recommend stepping up to the 9260C. Having a built-in high amperage charger just makes good sense.
  2. NeverEasy


    I changed mine in 2019 after being in the truck for 11 years. Keep them on a Progressive Dynamics 9240C charger when not on the road.
  3. Thanks for all the info and suggestions. I have a 2011 and load/unload it frequently. I use a winch for up always and down most of the time. We would be picking the 2016 up in NYC at a dealership. Probably not many options for sloped ground. I can bring it up forward or backward. The single tow point on the back would work if one tow point will hold it going up the ramp. Trying to avoid a "fail" and problems so far from home.
  4. Driving up is not a good option for us. Our bed was an early build. We bought it like it is. The height of the bed makes it a really step incline. I changed the 10 foot ramps to 12 feet but it is still very steep.
  5. Looking to buy a 2016 Smart that is out of state. I want to go put it on the back of the Volvo and bring it home. Any help with tow points (even chains) would be most appreciated. When I get it home I will do whatever is necessary for long term loading.
  6. Maybe you should put them in the truck and let the alternator put a charge on them. Might help. The batteries in my Volvo were 11 years old. Tested in spring and they were good. Tested this fall and three showed bad. Bought 4 new ones at Volvo and tested before putting in the rig or charging. Two tested iffy. Put them in the truck and charged for 24 hours with a built-in converter/charger. All showed good. When not in use, I run a Progressive Dynamics PD9240C converter/charger on them to keep them at full charge. I have had super success with PD units. I run a 60-amp in my RV. The PD's fourth stage is a equalization mode. After coming to full charge, every 21 hours it hits the batteries with 14.4 volts for 15 minutes. The last time I had to add water was about 3 years ago. Also, lost an alternator heading to Sioux Falls. Fired up the generator and continued on, running on the PD. Could not get a new alternator in Sioux Falls so drove 6 daylight hours back to my brother's house. I tried the lights but the voltage started dropping so the 40 amp charger was not enough to run everything.
  7. NeverEasy

    HDT in Virginia

    Hammer804, Don't know where you are in VA but all the DMVs don't have the same answers for registration and titling. In the Tidewater area, we have found that the one on Greenbriar in Chesapeake is the easiest to deal with.
  8. The flexible brake lines are fairly common. NAPA has them. The usual problem is getting the old one's fittings broken free.
  9. As I understand this, they have a hot brake problem on their Class C built on a Kodiak c5500 chassis. ?? Don't know the year but if it is over 5 years, I would be looking at the flexible brake line going to the errant wheel. The outside looks good but the insides come apart. The brake fluid goes to the caliper but can't go back as the failed hose forms a check-valve.
  10. NeverEasy

    Anti Algae

    No problems with the Volvo. I have used a biocide to treat an old 930 Case tractor that sits all but two days a year. Only used to cut ditch banks. It was all algae-ed up and Bio-Kleen from Power Service seemed to kill it. I still had to change the filters once.
  11. Regretfully, no. The 89 year mother-in-law is now a permanent resident of our m-i-l house extension. Her short-term memory is getting really bad. We had to take her meds away, issue them, and watch her take them therefore, we have to be here twice a day. We do have a lady down the road that will help us for short periods if she is free but professional care givers help out here in the country is difficult. Mom is physically healthy so we are expecting a long hiatus from traveling. We will miss the many people we have met at the HDT rallies across the country for a long while it appears. Mark & Bonnie: We will miss our 2018 neighbors! Your truck is looking good. Did you paint? I will PM you and stop hi-jacking Carl's thread.
  12. Carl, this is the link to the thread that had info on the new numbers and the url for the parts on Amazon.
  13. NeverEasy

    brake light switch

    I had a Hayes (the new type) on my truck when I switched to electric over hydraulic. The Hayes could not be adjusted to stop from skidding the tires on the RV no mater how gently I put the brakes on. I had to tape a small block of wood to the manual activation knob to limit the movement of the controller. Lucky for me, I found a new Max Brake controller that works great. Also, putting an air device in the brake line that is just 12VDC on/off is a bad idea. It will provide full 12VDC to the brakes at every closure of the switch. It will definitely slid the tires.
  14. Don't forget the connection at the starter itself. Vibration and heating/cooling of the copper terminals can loosen them.
  15. I agree with the above comments. One bad battery will make the charging system ignore the good ones and either not charge them or over-charge them. If you think you have a drain on the system while the truck is turned off, the best way to know is with a clamp on DC current meter. They are getting less expensive. This one is relative inexpensive. It seems to work well. Bought from Amazon. Voltcraft Current Clamp Meter VC330. There are less expensive ones on Amazon but I can't attest to their functionality. With the truck turned off and all the accessories in their usual state while stored, turn the meter to a high DC scale, zero it, and clamp it over the positive battery wire (there may be more than one positive lead on the battery if accessories have been tied directly to the battery). Get a reading and note whether the meter shows positive amps or negative amps. Reversing the clamp on the same cable will reverse the polarity reading. Get the meter to show negative as (with the truck off) there will definitely be a draw from the battery. On the high voltage scale, the reading will not be very accurate but it will likely show some rounded off amperage. Reset the scale to the range needed, zero it again, and clamp it on again. There will always be some drain while turned off. I don't know what is acceptable to your truck but it should be less than an amp, I would think. Starting the truck will run the alternator and the direction of the DC current polarity will reverse and then start decaying in amperage as the battery gets recharged from its effort to start the truck. Good luck!
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