porky69

This is a year round restriction. Anything rv is OK.

There are many different air compressors that any HDT can be spec'ed with, irregardless of engine model, but expect 50+lbs.

Sounds to me like you have a bad relay valve. I am all for doing it yourself but if you are not real familiar with how air brake systems work and are plumbed, take it to a truck shop..it's not just your life at stake it's everyone on the road.

I am in the same boat...put a set of Road X drives on my Freightliner conversion and am very happy....run smooth without balancing and about 1/2 the price....I will never wear them out before they rot so....Have put Sailun's on one of my daughters pickup and they are every but as good as the BFGoodrich and Coopers on my pickup and my wife's Tahoe

From what I read there are exemption for low mile per year (something like 10,000miles/yr) users and a few other special circumstances ...

Don't use the do-it-yourself stuff with stop leak in it....if you do and then take it to a shop they will want to flush and replace everything (relatively speaking). Find the leak, replace/repair the leak and top it up. Do-it-yourself plain freon top up can work quite well if there is still pressure in the system, we do it to dads Dodge early each summer and have been for about 10yrs. If pressure is zero it probably won't work out great.

As rickeieio said.... Once that's done I would suggest cordless for power tools. Quieter, more convenient, can use them anywhere(so long as you have a charged battery), no air hoses to trip over, and more power (usually...my 1/2" Milwaukee has more torque than a lot of 1 inch air guns) A 1 inch impact needs a monster compressor if you are doing more than a couple nuts at a time, otherwise you are always waiting for pressure to build. In my opinion you don't need to buy Snap-on, Mac, etc if you are using them to make a living, just buy good quality. There's a reason Harbor Freight is cheap to buy.

For the shake at 50-60mph...did you have the driveline and pinion angle recalculated for the shorter wheelbase and one less axle. Rear drive axle has the pinion in a different position as compared to the original forward axle and this will change all of the driveline angles, which may cause vibration. You may have to shim the drive to adjust the pinion angle and/or adjust the hanger bearing height. If the track bar or any other suspension bushings are shot they need to be replaced before changing pinion angle as they are inter-related

You are no longer a commercial vehicle and therefore have no licenced commercial GVWR, you are either a motorhome or an oversized pickup truck as far as the DOT are concerned. As others have stated, if they see/feel that there is something with your rig they will come and chase you down. In all of my years of RV'ing the only scale I pulled into (had a one ton dually and 38ft Fifth at the time) was the Yahk Scale in British Columbia and the only reason I did was they had special temporary signage up for RV's to report for inspection. On that day the port was backwards.....RV's report, commercial vehicles roll on....

Not sure what engine you have but check the fan clutch. Bearings might be going. Over the years of trucking and Motorcoach ownership have had several sound like that, and it was the fan clutch. You will have to have the truck aired up, key on, engine off and give it a spin. Should be smooth through full rotation, but probably won't free spin very far. If this is the problem you will want to get it fixed ASAP, if the bearings fail completely the fan will contact the radiator...

Have you considered something like this.....no personal experience just have seen trucks with them.... Flexible Solar Panels

I just put 8 new Road-X SDR1 11R22.5 (http://roadxtire.com/SDR1.html) tires on my tandem motorcoach for $3200cdn ($2675us). Came highly recommended by my tire shop.....and they know I don't buy junk but also don't like to throw money out the window. Only out about 100km on them but no vibration that I can feel and we didn't balance as they have never had issues with Road X tires. They still only recommend Michelin for steers for highway use.

I too am a big DIY'er.... But you need to compare apples to apples... in this case it is not fair to compare a the price of a Jackalopee (with stuff like diagnostic LED's, strain reliefs, connectors, proven track record, etc) to a no frills design (which I like...it does the same functions, but doesn't include any extras). Your pricing doesn't factor in connectors, heat shrink tubing, extra wire. I am sure that the first edition Jackalopee built for his own use was built for $50 or less but has evolved to a pretty much plug and play device...hence the price difference. Not bashing you, I would probably build my own as well. A fairer comparison is to the Hoppy 46255, which can be had for $60ish.....same basic functions but no frills as compared to a Jackalopee.

Best block heater out there....no plug in required, 7 day programmable timer, only needs 2hrs to have engine at 150* or more....sold at most truck repair facilities/dealers.... Webasto Heater

Don't think that just because the truck only has 40,000miles on it that stuff isn't worn out......Volvo/Pete/KW/FL/WS aren't any different than Ford/GM/Ram, they use the cheapest stuff that fills the need(which if the original purchaser is smart will spec upgrades). I had to replace shocks on my Pete at 20,000miles. Seats are a finnicky thing, some seats just about cannot be set comfortably if you have certain combinations of body attributes. I for example have relatively short legs, larger than average waist and average height and I find if I adjust some seats so it doesn't bottom out on every bump it puts me way to high in the air and then I can't reach the pedals without sliding the seat against the steering wheel which is uncomfortable. If I lower the seat so I am able to reach the pedals and steering wheel comfortably then the seat constantly bottoms out. Some seats are worse than others. I have learned to love sitting flat on the floor (no air in seat suspension), that way the seat doesn't move..... Being lightweight is a tough one for a lot of seats....they seem to be designed for hefty folks.....

Changing ride height does very little to change ride quality unless you are going to the very extremes(too low and it will constantly bottom out or way too high will over-extend the shocks and eventually blow the air bags out). It will change driveline angles which may cause vibration and accelerated u-joint wear and possible alignment issues. As others have indicated the factory engineers this stuff very precisely. Worn out seats or seat suspensions(seat shocks) can ruin a good riding truck. Next I would look at some upgraded shocks front, rear and cab- did this to a Pete 379 I used to own and it turned it into a whole new machine. Check with the dealer for your VIN #'s engineered ride height and have it checked/set. Tire pressures can be adjusted (so long as it is within the tire manufacturers specs- most have a load vs psi chart online for each model of tire), but this can cause mushy handling and funny tire wear if not careful. I haven't driven a newer truck with front air-ride suspension but any of the older ones handled like crap and were un-holy expensive to repair when they wore out.

I would start with quality shock absorbers.....drove a Pete with less than 100,000miles on a set of cheapish shocks and it rode like a tank, convinced shop foreman to replace them with some good ones and it was better than the day the truck was bought.

See.... Peterbilt Low Air Leaf

My class 8 conversion is geared WAY to fast for my liking...if I were to regear it I would probably go somewhere in the 3.55 or 3.73 range with my low pro 22.5 rubber and keep my 3way lockers.... most people would want to keep the 3.23ish gears that are in it.... A little off topic but further to what noteven showed....amazing what properly built/equipped machines are capable of....that being said- what works for my wants/needs may not be what works for you.... If you are worried about getting a tug from a tow truck..... 4 dozers, 2 bed trucks moving one trailer Own your own new KW 8x8 new/unused Kenworth 8x8 Like noteven said old but still expensive 45yr old 6x6

Try turning the engine brake off...I have driven trucks in the past where the cruise control would not work because the engine brake switch was in the on position. Sounds ridiculous but..... If this is the issue you should be able to have it disabled in the engine ECM settings. Also ....my Detroit powered requires the cruise control on/off switch to be turned off and then back on before the cruise control works....nothing you can change to disable this.

Napa.... Napa Metal Glad hand Holder or any truck parts store should have or be able to get. For the electrical cord....these are supposedly aluminum.... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pit-525 or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pit-520

Your new seats will probably have many, many extra mounting holes in the base. Worst case, cut the head off of the problem bolt and pick another hole nearby and mark it on the floor and either buy a kit to install a Nutsert (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Astro-Pneumatic-13-in-Nut-Thread-Hand-Riveter-Kit-with-Nosepiece-Set-AST1442/206859159) or find a local mechanic/fabricator that has them and have them install one for you. You would think that 3 bolts would be enough but you would be amazed at the forces on the base and over time the seat will rock a little and eventually come loose or break the other bolts, I have seen this happen.

In the aftermarket seat world under $1000 is a relatively cheap seat truck shops don't bring in the expensive stuff cause it is a hard sell but you get what you pay for.....had a driver in the drilling rig moving company I managed who needed a "good seat" for his back and it cost us $3500cdn.....without heat or cooling.

I put some Bostrom Wide Ride's with the low pro suspension, high seat back and dual arm rests in my 2000 379 Pete and loved them, but that was 15yrs ago. They were towards the lower end of the price spectrum but very comfy and well built. Unless you can find someone who has a particular seat installed in a similar model truck to yours it is just about impossible to tell how they will be in the real world just by sitting in them, something as simple as mounting them forward an inch can completely change how comfortable they are. There are a couple of things to be aware of with some lo-pro seat suspensions in some trucks......when I took the air out of mine, your butt was only about 6inches off the floor, I am 5'10" and could just nicely see over the dash and window sills (ie HAD to have air in them when driving in traffic or pretty much anywhere but open road) which to some insurance companies is a very bad thing....which is possibility #2 ... loss of insurance coverage due to the seats potentially not allowing proper visibility. Yes it is a long shot but we all know how insurance companies like to try and get out of paying. If you are going to adapt some automotive seats to air ride suspension, and I am not in any way condemning this, make sure you mount them at the right front to rear slope, if the front edge is to high and puts pressure on the back of your legs it can reduce blood flow to your lower legs and if it is to low you will always feel like you are sliding out. This is a purely personal thing, I like to have mine flat to slightly high, lots of people are the other way.And makesure the seat belts are securely mounted.

Here on the prairies of southern Alberta we received approx 18inches of wet, heavy, crystal white snow between Saturday afternoon and early Monday morning. Here in Lethbridge and area (actually pretty much anything south of Hwy 1 from the Saskatchewan border to the BC border) it closed all schools, most roads/highways, cancelled city buses, closed university and college, etc. Even today many businesses even the shopping centers were still closed. Any non-main roads are pretty much impassable. Didn't get much more than 1 or 2 degrees below freezing. Supposed to be +7 celsius by Wednesday.....sloppy days here we come...... Had to quickly put the snowblower on the little tractor so I could clear us a path out. Snow is so wet and heavy it just about can't be blown.