Jump to content

JRP

Validated Members
  • Content Count

    468
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About JRP

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/16/1948

Optional Fields

  • SKP#
    89477
  • Lifetime Member
    Yes

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SD, CO, NM

Recent Profile Visitors

15,786 profile views
  1. JRP

    Estes Park

    My recollection from years of living in Colorado was that there is not a lot of difference between those sections of 34 vs 36. Both gain 2000 ft elevation and both have lots of twisty turns. I recalled 34 being a bit more twisty than 36. But 36 has a bit more uphill since it goes up to 8000 ft before dropping into Estes Park. As for 7, its at a higher elevation, 8500-9000 ft and more exposed to high winds. This winter Colorado had 3 times its usual snow fall. Right now the roadway on 7 is clear but there is still 2 ft of snow along the shoulders, and its not unusual to get a May snow storm on that route. Keep an eye on the weather forecast. Going on 36 south would be a good alternate if the weather turns bad.
  2. Buying an insurance policy to cover the risk of loss of a $250,000 house or $250,000 motorhome or a $500,000 liability law suit, is a whole different animal than paying over $1000 a year for an extended RV equipment warranty/policy where the typical claim is a $1000 replacement item. The amount you risk losing vs the amount of premium cost to insure that loss is an easy calculation. The cost benefit of risk analysis varies depending on your financial resources. Many folks don't even carry collision/comprehensive insurance on vehicles once their value drops below $xyz. I don't mind paying $500 a year to insure a $50,000 car, but I refuse to pay that same $500 a year to insure a $10,000 car. etc
  3. This question is a frequent hot topic on RV forums. The majority of folks think they are a waste of money that only benefit the folks selling them. But some claim they sleep better at night by paying someone a $1000 a year in hopes that enough of their motorhome will break that year to come out ahead. Unless you think you're going to be the 1 in 10 million who has an engine or tranny blow up, its hard to justify the cost based on any logic. But if your finances & willpower are such that you'd rather pay $1000 up front instead of saving up until you actually have something break then go for it. I haven't spent enough on broken stuff on my motorhome in the 15 yrs I've owned it from brand new to now, to pay for what they wanted for one 3 yr extended service plan. So I have an extra $15,000 in my savings account to spend on repairs when something does blow up.
  4. JRP

    Co-op questions

    New Mexico, like many states has multiple definitions for "resident" status depending on the specific state law and department involved. If you're applying for state benefits or in-state tuition then its 12 months. But if its the state personal income tax as a resident, then its when you physically spend 185 days or more within the state if your domicile was elsewhere, or immediately when you moved into the state with the intention of making it your home. Its not unusual for there to be some variation in when you become a resident, most states allow for several different circumstances. 1) you moved here with the clear intention of staying and working fulltime in the state, so you become a resident immediately 2) you have a permanent home elsewhere and only moved here temporarily, so you will be considered a non-resident for tax purposes, until your stay exceeds 185 days. 3) you have no permanent home, but have an established domicile elsewhere and moved here temporarily, but have now stayed 185 days or more. Fulltime RV'ers usually fall into gray areas that the laws don't always exactly fit, but the generally accepted rule is, don't spend more than 6 months within any one state if you want to avoid residency & tax disputes. Some states are very aggressive in forcing compliance and would use the tactics you describe. However, NM and TX are not one of those and are somewhat flexible. Sometimes it also depends on your visibility & exposure to law enforcement. If you're out in the boonies and don't come in contact with the authorities, you can get away with more. If you park in the middle of town, raise hell, drive drunk, participate in public protests, etc, then you're more likely to be held to the letter of the law. As for the NM MVD policy on when your vehicles need to be registered, thats spelled out clearly, within 60 days of becoming a resident of the state. (when do you become a resident -- see above) https://www.mvdexpress.com/new-resident-registration/
  5. Dish seems to be headed in the same direction. They're losing 200,000 Sat customers a year and already announced plans to spend a $1 billion a year converting to a 5G wireless TV system.
  6. When I retired at 60 and had to fund 5 yrs of private heath insurance until Medicare kicked in, it was all pre-obamacare. So it was a very different marketplace. I was able to find a reasonably priced Bluecross/Blueshield plan with nationwide coverage. Today the choices are more limited and more expensive, and vary greatly depending on your home state and even your home county within the state. Most reasonably priced options are HMO type that limit covered care to a specific region. Many limit out of network coverage to "emergencies". PPO policies with national coverage are harder & harder to find. There is no "one size fits all" answer, but start by reviewing this site that summarizes most of your options and is specific for RV'ers http://www.rverinsurance.com/
  7. JRP

    The Ranch

    We had a 1/2" dusting of snow this morning, at my ranch outside Deming NM. Its melting now but the whole area was covered in a white blanket this morning. I'm at 4000 ft, there was probably a lot more snow up higher.
  8. Contact one of the independent insurance agencies that specialize in RVs, they know who offers the best rates for certain type vehicles & coverages. I used Miller but there are several other good ones as well. look in the Escapees commercial directory listing or wait for more input here Don't push the Liability limits too high in your base policy. Its much cheaper to buy increased Liability in an umbrella policy. Although it will require a certain minimum liability coverage in your base policy, mine required 250,000/500,000 to get an additional $2 mil in the umbrella. I pay about $1300 a year for complete coverage of my class A motorhome, and another $200 for the umbrella policy. I have 6 other vehicles on separate policies with the same company.
  9. Yes a Fulltimers Policy is more expensive because it includes additional coverages. Most RV Insurers will require you to get a Fulltimers Policy if you live in the RV more than xxx days a year, or if you have no other fixed residence. However, not all insurers will write a fulltimers policy. With no HomeOwners policy, the primary coverage you're missing is Personal Liability Coverage. If someone sues you for something that doesn't involve a collision, then your normal RV policy will not cover it, but a Fulltimers Policy will. You could also purchase whats called an Umbrella Liability Policy to get additional liability coverage. The fulltimers Policy will also usually include Medical Expenses for others hurt in or around your RV. Most fulltimers policies also allow a higher level of personal property limits and/or specific riders to cover additional electronics, computers, firearms, jewelry, etc. Some also include an Emergency Living Expenses coverage, to pay for hotel expenses if the RV is in the shop under a claim.
  10. I think you're making this a bigger issue than it needs to be. As long as you set it up ahead of time in a Fulltime Traveler friendly state, it shouldn't be a problem. As for the required US vehicle insurance, it varies state to state, but as long as you avoid the "no fault" states like Florida, the required insurance for most others is a minimal amount of Liability Coverage thats very cheap. Most states don't require you to actually insure the vehicle, just have a bit of Liability coverage in case you hit someone. No it won't cover you in foreign countries, but having that current valid US registration will make your life easier at each border crossing.
  11. In the court cases that addressed this issue, the answer depends on how the RV is being used. When the RV is on the hiway or public streets or public parking lots or even your driveway its considered a vehicle. Like any other vehicle, when the LEO has probable cause, they can search it without a warrant. When the RV is parked in an RV Park, Trailer Park and is plugged into utilities, being used for living purposes, and not easily driven away quickly, then its considered a home and requires a search warrant. The courts placed emphasis on how easily the vehicle could be driven away to dispose of any contraband or evidence, in choosing which category would be applied. They also allow the officers to temporarily detain the vehicle until a search warrant is obtained, if they can demonstrate probable cause. Probable Cause is a rather easy bar to reach, it doesn't require any proof, just a reasonable belief based on available evidence. But more than just a suspicion. The 4th amendment only prohibits "unreasonable" searches and the courts definition of unreasonable doesn't always agree with yours or mine. This is a personal opinion and not professional legal advice. Always consult with a licensed attorney for legal advice.
  12. The TIP process & requirements for Mexico is one many here have been through and its well documented online. as you see in the documents required list, vehicle registration is one of them https://www.mexpro.com/mexico/vehicle-import-permit.html
  13. My experience did not start in the US nor include a US vehicle, and was over 30 yrs ago. We wanted nothing to do with driving through Central America. We were a small group of mountain climbers primarily interested in climbing many of the glacier covered mountains in the Andes.. So we flew to Quito Ecuador, bought a van and drove the length of the Andes, stopping frequently to climb along the way, we drove as far south as the Towers of Paine National Park in southern Chile, then sold the van and flew back home. We were on the road just over 1 year. My suggestions would be.... Before leaving the US, "move" to a state that doesn't require annual smog or safety inspections, and one that will allow registration renewals over the internet or through a 3rd party, like a mail forwarding company. Most of the mail forwarding agencies used by fulltime RV'ers offer a vehicle registration service. It will vary from border to border, but having a valid current registration will help reduce the "bribes" you will be asked for. You should do some homework up front on each countries vehicle import requirements, vehicle taxes and insurance requirements. Many countries will not accept a US drivers license. But its easy to get an International Driving Permit, that most will accept. You will also need to ship the vehicle by sea from Panama to Columbia, to get around the Darien Gap. I think you should plan on selling the vehicle where ever your trip ends, bringing it back to the US will not be practical or economically feasible. Several folks have done this drive much more recently and you may find their stories & contact info online. Not usually done in a true RV since many of the roads are near impassable and frequent pushing & towing is required.
  14. One negative in Florida is they consistently have much higher vehicle insurance rates. Of course insurance always varies a bit, based on vehicle type, coverage's and your personal record. But the experts who rank insurance costs by state, always have Florida in the top 5 most expensive. Its mostly due to their mandated Personal Injury Protection (PIP) coverage. The same insurance cost rating lists usually have SD toward the lower cost end and Tx in the middle. Insurance cost is just one factor in this choice, important to some, not so important to others.
  15. The system linked above appears to be a low pressure RO sys, which are only practical with fairly clean input water, otherwise the membrane fouls quickly. The systems I am familiar with are all high pressure, which work well when the input source water is dirty or salty. Yes, I process 4 gals of raw water to generate 1 gal of drinking water. But when there is no spigot nearby, processing 4 gal of lake water, river water or sea water to get me 1 gal of drinking water is not wasting any water, since it drains back in the river, lake or ocean. I agree that RO isn't needed where you're simply filtering already good water. But when dirty lake or river water, or salty sea water is your only source, then RO is a great solution. When I live on my Sailboat for 5 months each winter, I live off RO water made from unlimited sea water. In the Bahamas, there is no fresh water, all the inhabited islands & towns use RO water for everyday water needs. When I pull into a marina, they will sell me RO water for $ .50 a gal, or I can make my own for pennies a gal.
×
×
  • Create New...