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GR "Scott" Cundiff

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About GR "Scott" Cundiff

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    Major Contributor

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    113181
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Here and There
  • Interests
    RVing

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  1. Most everyone recommends Campground Membership Outlet for both selling and purchasing used memberships. They make their money from the transfer fees, so it doesn't cost you any extra for using their service. Also, they have a reputation for responding to inquiries quickly. Their website is: https://www.campgroundmembershipoutlet.com/
  2. Suggestion: don't ask people what the average cost is because they will (correctly) respond that "it depends." Instead ask people what THEY paid when they parked for a month last year. That way they won't be able to respond with "it depends" because they either they know what they paid or they don't. In the Houston area, we are paying $500 with utilities included this winter. Of course, "it depends" on which RV park you are talking about
  3. Since everyone in the Trails Collection has the same booking window you have about the same chances as anyone else to book a site. Last summer at one place they insisted we go into a 30 amp water/electric site. I countered that I was told when I booked that I would get a FHU site. When they insisted, I told them I was calling Thousand Trails. While I was on the phone waiting, they "found" a spot for me. Later on I wanted to book a site in Maine right in the heart of tourism season. They offered me sites in two parks. One was FHU, the other was water/electric but right where we wanted to be. I took the w/e site and it was great. I guess the take-away is that the Trails Collection is a mixed bag.
  4. If you can get in there Seven Points CoE is a terrific campground and many of the sites will accommodate any sized RV. I reviewed it here.
  5. We got our original Thousand Trails membership from someone who couldn’t use it any more. After using it for 4 years we decided to upgrade to the Elite membership so we could pick up several parks that weren't in our original membership. We think TT is a good deal if you are going to actually use the membership. Having said that, for those who aren’t familiar with TT, the Zone Pass is probably a better way to go. With no commitment you get access to all the preserves in an area for a year. That gives you opportunity to decide if you want to jump in all the way and get a membership. If you use the ZP for just 30 nights you’ll have spent less than $20 a night – that’s a great camping rate. The TT campgrounds are a mixed bag. Some are terrific. A few are subpar. Most are somewhere in between. You’ll almost always have water and at least 30 amp electric. Often you’ll have full hookups. Generally, there will be a surcharge of $3-5 for 50 amp service. There will be a pool, possibly some kind of spa, an Activity Center, and maybe a few other sports venues – generally these amenities will be somewhat tired but progress is being made in bringing them back to life. The same can be said of the roads. I've done many reviews of Thousand Trails campgrounds: http://pastorscott.com/travel/tag/thousand-trails/ If you go with a “used” Thousand Trails membership you’ll want to carefully check out the contract because older memberships are all over the place in privileges. Some memberships don’t include all the preserves – that may or may not be a big deal to you depending on your travel plans. The biggies in our opinion are that you want “park to park” privileges so you won’t have a mandatory week out between stays, a minimum of 2 or 3 week stays, and a national membership that works coast to coast. You also want to know how many “free” nights you get by paying your annual dues (our original membership got 50) and then what it costs per night after that (we paid $5). Other things to check out are being sure dues increases are stopped (or halved) at 62 or 65 and, of course, the actual dues amount. If you are going to use the preserves at least a month or two a year and if you are okay with the quality of the preserves, it’s a good deal. If not, well, anything you purchase but don’t use is a waste of money. We are happy with our membership and would do it again without hesitation.
  6. Thanks Ray - I may have been mistaken about needing to hold the dump air button down to keep it dumping air. I'll check it out the next time we travel. However, the manual says specifically that you are to "hold the Air Dump switch to lower the suspension." Our leveling system is powered but manual. The manual for the rig says I need to manually dump air to lower the suspension before using the leveling system. I understand the purpose of the low air warning buzzer, I was a bit frustrated because I wanted to hear what the engine sounded like as it was just starting and I couldn't hear it for the buzzer. No biggie - I just wondered if there was a way to acknowledge the low air. As far as I'm concerned we can drop that part of the conversation as I understand the importance of the rig's air pressure coming up before proceeding.
  7. Yes, a switch you hold down to "dump air." And thanks for the help via the phone! Take care.
  8. Thanks. I don't "want to" I just want to know if this is normal behavior or if it is something I need to be concerned about. Apparently, it is normal.
  9. Is pressing the brakes while holding down the dump air a good idea or not?
  10. Thanks folks - yes I was asking about dumping air. I hold the dump air switch down and the air slowly drops to around 40 pounds and settles there. Okay on living with the low air alarm. I was hoping there was some way to acknowledge and silence it. I have the Texas DPS Commercial Manual - and am just starting to work through the chapter on air brakes. I also have a pretty robust section on air brakes in my MH owner's manual. I imagine I'll need help from someone before attempting to drain the system. I have a neighbor who does a lot of his own maintenance who happens to own a rig similar to mine. Thanks again for putting up with the questions of a novice.
  11. Excuse the basic questions, but running a rig with air brakes/suspension is new to me. 1. When I shut the rig down and press the dump air switch, the air is pretty slow to go down - and the gauge never really goes below 40 pounds or so. Is this normal behavior? 2. After first starting up the low air alarm sounds until, I think 80 pounds. I know that's expected. Is there any way to acknowledge that alarm and silence it? That minute or two seems kind of long with that beep, beep, beep. Thanks in advance for any helpful and patient responses.
  12. When we retired and announced to family, friends, and co-workers that we were going to sell the house and fulltime RV we also said that this was want we wanted to do and that we weren't expecting it to appeal to everyone else. This was our dream and our life, not theirs. This thread reminds me of that. Since we are on the Escapees forum it comes as no surprise that the majority are coming forward with explanations of why it is a terrific way to live and how most issues are easily resolved. Outside our circles are many who don't see what we see. I think the best thing we can do is acknowledge that this is what we like and it is perfectly fine for others to come up with all kinds of reasons why it doesn't work for them. Honestly, it is fine with me - the campgrounds are full enough already.
  13. We didn't retire so we could fulltime. We retired so we could travel and see the country at a leisurely pace. It just so happens that fulltiming in a RV is the best way to travel. We've never imagined that fulltiming is cheaper than living in a house. We know, though, that traveling in a RV while also owning and maintaining a house is more expensive than having just one or the other.
  14. We got some chocolate custard at Freddy's yesterday - very good, smooth chocolate.
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