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  1. I had a similar issue with having to work to keep it going straight. I checked for play in the steering box, that was fine. Solution, the toe in was way off, like 1/4" + of toe. After attempting the simple adjustment, I determined why it was not adjusted. It was rusted solid. After I could move it, set the toe, now it goes straight down the road. My pin is back a ways as well but I still have almost 10K on the front all hooked and loaded. Rich
  2. You have a good list of tools. You may consider a handheld voltmeter, assortment of stranded wire, shrink sleeving, soldering iron, a roll of self fusing silicone tape, duct tape, electrical tape, tie wraps (real ones), and for what it costs, a governor. Me, I think my fuel mileage may be impacted by the "what if" stuff that I carry. Have a good one Rich
  3. Had you considered a HDT scrap yard? When I did ours, got 6+ ft of the 300mm Volvo frame (both sides with a couple cross members) and 6 ft of some frame rails that fit nicely inside the 300mm stuff that I used as fish plates. I think they charged me $10 a ft and they sent a guy our with a torch and fork lift to cut it and load it up for me.
  4. I have my genset configured to provide two 25 amp legs (for a 240V dryer). The rest of the coach consists of 120V loads. Got the ACs on different legs that draw about 12 amps each. The next biggest load is the microwave at 10 or 12 amps. Never had a problem or even heard the genset grunt when adding load. So, if you can do laundry when the ACs are off, a 6 KW genset will cover you fine at a lot less $$$ than a 12 KW. Also, I recommend putting the genset on the truck so it doesn't vibrate the coach.....and a lot less risk of CO poisoning. Check out these EcoGen gensets for off the grid cabins......others talk about being quiet, but these really are..... 52db at 7 meters. You have to go outside to check if its running. For reference, those Honda suitcase generators are 59db, and a 10db delta is considered "twice as loud"
  5. My truck did the same thing when I got it, a lot of work making it go straight. It had more than 1/4" of toe in. Adjusted to zeroish, no more wander. Be very careful cranking on the steering box lash adjustment. The real procedure for adjusting lash involves taking off then link that goes from the arm mounted on the box to the left steering knuckle. Wiggle the arm back and forth to detect any play. Loosen or tighten the screw just enough to get no play, then tighten the lock nut while holding the screw position. If the lash is tightened beyond zero, it will eat the steering box in short order. Best Rich
  6. Hi Henry - I'm a "non-dumper" but with a twist. I would like to dump the sled so it clears the Mini Cooper (with margin) when I get it down off the truck. With the sled aired up, I need a spotter to make sure the head doesn't snag on something under the car. With the sled dumped, no spotter required. I while back I sent you a cut sheet for a three way ball valve that would allow for said dumpage and undumpage by venting the bags while blocking the signal from the leveling valve. Have you designed a dumpage system with a ball valve? thx Rich
  7. Greetings - Post summer adventure update. The spare tire didn't move a bit in 3000 miles. Yes, there is a cheap ratchet strap to keep it snug against the frame, but the paint isn't chewed up on the wheel or the round tube. Every time I checked it with the IR gun, it was 110 deg F or less. During my one parked regen, with the fairing open, it was only slightly above ambient. After that, I quit checking it. Note to self - this is the last year for the Michelin XPS ribs.....they will be 8 yrs old, look fine, but not going to push it any more. (had great luck, #15,000 on the axles) New ones is the spring, best two become spares. Anyone want a D load range, 0 miles tire with a 2006 born on date, made in China? 😄
  8. Greetings - I need to replace the seal below the curved shower door. It appears to be some sort of clear material, like Tygon tubing, extruded to a particular shape. Is there an RV seal source that anyone would recommend? thanks Rich
  9. You may consider a MTTP solar charge controller. With these, you can use the less expensive (in most cases) higher OCV panels....just be sure to isolate that line to the roof from the 12V system first.
  10. I have the same fuse provision. In the roof is a connector for the solar panel hookup. Its about right above the 12V fuse panel
  11. Don't all our trucks have oil bath bearings on the front axles? My truck may sit for 10 months.....starts right up ....APU starts right up too. .....should I be rolling the front tires every month?
  12. Air Lines? Good point, as some day, a BluDot system may find its way onto the unit. So, if I can "see the light", I'll try and get two 1/2" air lines and two #0 welding cables through there. Seems like that street side front compartment would be a great place to put the air over hydraulic stuff......so I don't loose any storage in the belly area. I have to find the recipe for dexter oil bath disc hubs, that fit my axles, that work with wheels that are rated for 120psi and 4500 lbs (hub centered vs stud centered). I remember something about having to go with two hydraulic actuators with a triple axle dexter system .....something about not enough hydraulic volume capability to push six dexter calipers. thanks Rich
  13. I did some snooping and feeling around at the front of the belly area where it meets the overhang.....that sheetmetal interface mentioned is like 3/16" c channel and the overhang is filled with insulation making for some bad fishing. Next I'll have to get out the Harbor Freight borescope with a flashlight in the pin box area....see if I can "see the light"
  14. Our Teton has the residential refrigerator requiring an inverter to operate on the road. The Magnum 2812 does well, driven by 4 Trojan group 16 batteries 740 Ahr worth. The charge line that comes through the 7 way trailer interface is not able to keep up with the refrigerator load...... almost, as the battery monitor says the bank is at 97% after 10 hrs on the road. I have a second power interface on the back of the truck, a two pin lift gate interface good for 200 amps. I want to run these lines to the battery bank so I can keep it at 13.6 or 13.8v going down the road, even it the frig is drawing 35 amps at 12V. So, how can I get a couple welding cables routed from the pin box to the street side compartment (where the fuses for the trailer lights etc are located). Any suggestions? thanks
  15. Update - 3000 mile trip, one regen. I'm thinking the heat shields I put on the post turbo pipe my have provided some extra heat for passive regen.
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