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Padraic

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About Padraic

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 03/03/1956

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    70220
  • Lifetime Member
    Yes

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  • Website URL
    http://rvescapade.blogspot.com/

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chantilly, VA
  • Interests
    Computer, stock trading

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  1. Padraic

    No starting

    Never mind, I should know where the lug was sold.
  2. Padraic

    No starting

    I can make the cable since you remind me. I build a solar 3000-watt inverter system for my RV, where you get the battery terminal? Are they sale at Auto or truck store.
  3. Padraic

    No starting

    Thank you, guys. Just got it started. You are right. A bad connection/corrosion inside the big red cable close to the battery terminal. I wiggled it and got good voltage at the cab. It was only 5.5V at the dash CB dc terminal, but I got 12.6V at the battery below. I was thinking as you guy suggested, it must be a bad connection of the ground black cable. Use a jumper cable connect the battery negative terminal to the frame of the truck. The voltage in the cab was still 5.5V. Next to test the Red one. As soon as I touch it, the cab voltage jump back to 12.6V. I knew the truck can start. Now replacing the red or the black 3 odd cables will be expensive and a lot of work to un-tied it from the frame and re-tire a new one. Is there a way to spice in a little section? That may be a temp fix since the cable may be corroded all the way inside. How much is one of these cables sold for a VNL610 98?
  4. Padraic

    No starting

    Thanks. I will check the connections from battery cable to the solenoid as suggested.
  5. Padraic

    No starting

    My 98 Volvo with M11 won't start today. I drove it last week and it was OK with a few clicks on the starter solenoid before the starter kick in. The few "clicks before starting" had been happening mostly at cold engine start in my long trip from Virginia to Yuma, much less once the engine had been hot. So I suspect the starter brushing is worn down like my old Buick Electra '66 in 1974. I replace the brushing for $1 in the starter then. Today, no click and no voltage drop (13.2 volts). So what may be broken, could be the ignition switch along the path to the starter solenoid. Since no voltage drop and no sound, it is an open circuit. Does anyone have experience on this issue? I assumed and seems to see the starter is at the driver side under the steering rod but towards the engine. Reading the old forum post, it has three bolts in attaching to the engine. Any ideas to troubleshoot this starting issue. Thanks.
  6. Yes in VA for 7 years, just retired and go back to the west coast. Selling the house. I am driving to Yuma home base. Coolant is ok. Battery of the trailer died and working on a replacement. The truck battery may need to upgrade to the AGM version to handle more load beside starting.
  7. I will check in to the coolant in the whole system more closely once I get our old rig to Yuma AZ from VA. I am hoping the coolant stays OK in this trip. I pick up a spare bottle just in case. Finger cross.
  8. Jay, you are right. Green is the original coolant. With that, it needs DCA added and Nitrate test. A little more hands on. Maybe cheaper. I happen to have the green put in the last service. I used to have the extended life type. Once you read it up on the net, they all do the job of anti-corrosion with expanding temperature range. I open the cap when it is hot on my 1998 Volvo. It does have some low pressure, unlike a car. It is safe to open when it is hot.
  9. Thanks for the info. Just sign up Coach-Net for my travel.
  10. My main cluster is still working, the side LCD panel has no display for many years. But the night illumination of the speed and tach are gone/loose. I wiggle the wire behind. It will good for a short time. Good to know you still can buy the cluster for $1200 from the dealer.
  11. Good to know all green coolant is the same. I need to add half a gallon to bring it back to the MIN mark. Thanks.
  12. Vern, thanks. Sound like the loose clamp introduce air in the system and will need to monitor if any more small leak present. The radiator volume is about 10 to 12 gallons. I added 1 gallon of distilled water for the engine to stay on. That means instead of 50/50 mix, I have roughly 40/60 mix. I have the Havoline Chevron antifreeze (green stuff), hard to come by locally except an hour drive to the shop did my coolant change. Try to keep it the same. Of course, DCA may need to be added after testing it.
  13. I saw the leak under the truck today. It turns out the hose clamp was not set correctly after the shop changed the coolant 10 months ago. They lose the clamp and drain the fluid from the big radiator hose in February. But he did not sit the clamp correctly, it was off about 1/4 inch off from the original groove. In terms of coolant air venting, will see it will continue. So Volvo doesn't have a pressure cap like others, that means the coolant pressure must be low. Thanks, everyone chip in for the ideas.
  14. I am puzzling of so much air vent out from the radiator/engine. Maybe the coolant is low and traps air. Will work on it today when the sun is out.
  15. Is there a radiator cap on the 98 VNL 610? I have not ever noticed one. I assume there is one like any car radiator. I should check the cap and if there are any leaks there or the pressure is still good. Further, read on my Diesel book. There seems a lot of air escaping to the overflow bottle. That must be the high coolant level I noticed. Any picture of that cap location would be appreciated.
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