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About Padraic

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  • Birthday 03/03/1956

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    Chantilly, VA
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    Computer, stock trading

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  1. TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Thanks, for the info. Sound like it is not a critical item for the hitch operation since some system don't have one. Mine is old with a fading label. It is a good question of the design to damping a 7000 lb load or 3000 in my case. Amazon has the Monroe shock.
  2. TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Chet or anyone know the shock absorber used in this hitch? Model and part number for a replacement? Is it a special item or auto parts store may have it? Thanks.
  3. TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Chet, thanks for the detail operation of the hitch. #7 and #8 pin is critical holding the top of the Holland head to the base. I agreed that should stay put. I was wonder how it was put in during the manufacturing process. It will be a better design if there a small lock plate to block the pin from coming out.
  4. TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Chet, thanks for the posts. I study the diagram you list on the website. I downloaded that before and it seems the Holland head is mounted upside down in that application than ours. The part diagram is good but lack of a line to see what went into what. With your description. I started to get how the head put together. The #8 Groove pin tap on in the #7 Clevis pin to prevent the Clevis pin comes out the #13 fifth wheel housing. Mine is better on one side than the other. #8 miss the hole by 1/8 to 1/4 inches with rust. This is how the head attached to the pivot base with #7. It seems, there must be a way to slide that #7 with #8 in place out if the head put in particular position. I assume that is the design to put #7 in during the manufacturing process. I called Trailersaver today, and they recommended to put grease on pin #7 and replace it when the Clevis pin has 1/8 or 1/4 play which is not a too technical way to gauge. I guess if the clevis pin doesn't fall out. The head should stay put. It will nice if that hole is close up once the head is built. #20 the big bolt acts as a pivot and connect the Holland head to the Trailersaver base. That is a critical item for the assembly to work. Mine has rust, and Trailersaver tech recommends to take it out and examine for worn. At 50K miles use, I think it is OK but taking it out for sure. The #3 Clevis pin which holding the jaw #1 using #2 cotter pin, correct? So that cotter pin is critical. Is there a way to replace #2 without disassembly? When the trailer kingpin is in position during travel, those #3 clevis pins should stay put since the trailer is on the top of it prevent it falling out, correct? The locking block #5 movement is critical for the unit to work, after hitch up. The #17 trip level swing to the head means the block is blocking the jaw from open during travel and tension by the #6 compression spring. That is one item to double check after hitch up.
  5. TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Hi guys. is there an instruction to take apart the Holland Binkley head from the Trailersaver base. Our hitch is 16 years old with 50K miles on it. I want to take it apart as much as I can, replace cotter pins. Examine the locking jar and locking block. Check those large Clevis pins and see how they work to ensure all are well before hitching. I am thinking the big Pivot (Axis) Bolt which allow the head to roll side to side, is the first item to unbolt and free the head from the body? Anyone did a full maintenance scrub down on this hitch? The hitch we have is the early version. The body (back) hinges that allows the head assembly to float on the airbag, are two big bolts with the lock nut in a tubing with the grease zerk for lubrication. Anything to watch out in servicing the hitch? Thanks.
  6. Truck Repair

    Nice job for a good look truck. Sound like you can do everything yourself to save money. You have a million miles on it, is that much different in an older truck than the newer in feature and equipment? What kind of engine and transmission? How do you go by find truck like that?
  7. Truck Repair

    For my education, what was the truck age and mileage when you acquired. Did you expect that? I guess I was lucky.
  8. Truck Repair

    I wonder, anyone has a $22K in repair. What does an engine overhaul cost? Like, replace the 6 sleeves, piston, valve and cam/crank shift. Parts and/or labor cost.
  9. Truck Repair

    Maybe my figure was not clear. $22K for the truck, 445K original miles. Now after 16 years of ownership. The odometer stated 485K. 40K miles during fulltime for 9 years. Stored another 7 years. Maybe the truck still worth for 15K. That will be $0.175 per mile. If the truck can get to 1 million miles, that would be $0.04 per mile plus repair and fuel.
  10. Yours is Pete, I saw this youtube video on clutch Volvo spring replacement. Is it the same issue in your case? This looks easy.
  11. Truck Repair

    Speaking of the cost of this lifestyle and truck repair, I was a little shock with the repair cost in getting back on the road. The diesel mechanics are young, and some were not that experienced. We started our fulltime in 2002 with my HDT 1998 VLN610 (445K miles) from Knight retired truck. I paid $2200 purchase price and $55K brand new Mountainaire trailer. That was it. When I look at the price today, similar four years old HDT sell for double the price and the new trailers were up to $100K at a minimum. I understand today vehicles have more belt and whistle and thus of cost increase. We were fulltime until 2011, and I can write off my total RV expense with the rental cost of living in an apartment in Dallas Texas. I was happy to see that cost equation. Like anything else, inflation has crept in no matter what the official number. Our truck was great on the pocketbook at the repair department. In those early days, fluid and tires change was the only cost. We did have the same water leak on the passenger side of the truck. We were in a campground before our maiden voyage and be able to fix it myself for cheap. I built my truck bed using $2000 of steel and brought $2500 welding equipment in 2003 for my welder friend who created it for me based on my design from Autocad. Back then, I was total into RV lifestyle, I live and think RV in all my waking hours. So we did it with less cost than living a regular housing arrangement. The bonus was to see the country free. Seeing today cost in acquiring the same quality setup would be out of reach for us then. I can't believe a fully build HDT, and a nice bed today can sell for $100K plus if I see at the right place. Not that it not worth the cost if someone is in this lifestyle. For me, the value is no longer there. I was going into HDT for value, low cost, and safety for the money. The value equation is tremendous then. It is questionable today if I can't do most of the work myself. Like, pick my own truck, build my own bed and do the repair. This is just a reflection of mine, the way of looking RVing on the cheap sentiment back in 2002. A history what it was. Not to make a judgment how other see what is right for them and for me, not totally get the cost RV market being so high. A sign of getting old.
  12. What antifreeze to use?

    After 24 hours of research on anti-freeze/coolant for my M11 Cummins. A Diesel textbook from Amazon and my Cummins owner manual. There are some surprise and usual finding. The M11 Cummins engine can use all three Type of anti-freeze according to my manual. Type I is the oldest which required testing and flush every two years from build up. Hight maintenance. Type II and III are the extended life which lasts much longer but still required monitoring and add the depleted additive back to coolant half-life if there is no coolant replacement. Basically, the air in coolant form bubble (like you see cooking water on a stove top) outside piston cylinder lining and when they burst. High pressure can punch holes thru the piston sleeve wall. SCA contains nitrite which forming a guard layer to take that beating. A test strip is to test the amount of nitrate left in the system to protect. PH value from 8.5 to 10 to maintain the optimal chemistry. These are the most important factors to check. Other corrosion inhibitors in the SCA/DCA additive to protect other metals from corrosion found in a Diesel Engine. Since both Antifreeze and Water are good to draw heat out, but they are corrosive in nature to the material particle in metal. Mixing coolant type is OK at 5% to the most 25% but shorten the life of the antifreeze product. Type I is all manual control by the owner, you add the DCA filter and SCA liquid to reach the optimal chemistry. Type I is green for Truck diesel and car. But they are different and should not be mixed up. The Diesel truck Type I is very low in silicate. Silicate and DCA nitrite can form green goo that gum up water passage. That will be bad and two-year flush is recommended to minimize that chance. Type II and Type III used other chemical and post less issue. Type III is not toxic but less efficient to pull heat out of the engine. Water is the most efficient way to draw heat, better than the antifreeze, more water in the mix (40/60 water) does a better job for heat removal but less protection by the additive in the antifreeze. So for me at this stage is testing the coolant, add filter DCA and SCA as test dictate.
  13. What antifreeze to use?

    Thanks for the feedback. I am aware the seriousness of coolant to the engine. When I was actively traveling for eight years, I changed antifreeze often enough without the testing strip. After storing the truck for seven years. I know I need to do better. I didn't know about the airlock; I will check that vent plug. The coolant I got was Chevron Havoline green 50/50, so no water added. The concern right now is the mix of the red to the green due to poorly flush. I may do it over if needed with a good flush with distilled water. I change coolants on all my cars for 40 years. The big truck is still new to me. This time around, I try to educate myself since shop mechanic can be hit or miss. From what I read Cummins M11 should be using the green stuff with adding DCA silicate and test with a test strip. I ordered some and see how well it tested and may decide to drain it all/re-do it. These are what I am looking for; coolant filter for M11 - Fleetguard WF2072 -- this has 6 Units of Slo-Release DCA. The filter is behind the turbo and next to the oil filter. Looks like hard to reach. Also, Fleetguard DCA65L DCA4 Corrosion Inhibitor may be a good idea too.
  14. What antifreeze to use?

    Hi guys, try to figure out the coolant complexity. What to use and how long between change for RVer, the process you use to manage the coolant at top performance. I had the red (extended life) during the storage period and beyond. Yesterday with an oil change, changing the coolant in the shop. The tech said you should use the green stuff since my engine is older. A Cummins M11. From my old note years ago, one of the earlier HDTer (Old Phoneman) Dave. He used the green in his similar 98 truck. So I said great and got the green stuff put in. The shop didn't do a great shop flushing the system and missed the coolant filter which contains SCA at one point. So I need to educate myself and get to the bottom of this coolant thing which map hurt the engine more. To understand the different additives and different engine design may use a different type. SCA, test strip and nitrate etc. I am ready this article and educational.
  15. Replacing Steer Tires

    I bought 2 Bridgestone steer tires a couple week ago from Simpletire online, got it in 4 days after ordering. Shipped by FedEx from Florida to Virginia. Got a local shop install it. The hard part is to find a local shop install it. Love travel plaza in the Southeast of the US is part of their install network. You can find which shop and had it ship to them. The tire is within a year old which is common.