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About Padraic

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    Full Member
  • Birthday 03/03/1956

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  • Location
    Chantilly, VA
  • Interests
    Computer, stock trading

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  1. Padraic     I'm Pat The Old Sailor And we live in Chesapeake. Headed up to Williamsburg this weekend. We'll be staying at the Campark at the Old Pottery. Do you ever get down our way? Call if you get a chance. 757 646 1686.  Pat

    The Old Sailor

  2. Padraic

    Worn out rubber bushing and brake service

    Chief, you are in North Carolina? Is there an M&P shop you recommend. I am in VA, not too far. Thank for the tip dogbone bushing can be press out and replace, will take to the local shop when I have a chance.
  3. Hi guy, I like to replace the rear shocks and the connecting rod between the frame and the axle. The rubber bushing was worn out as the linked picture. Besides the dealer, where would you get those parts? Any part number you may have? My rear end is all factory standard with the original airbag suspension. I supposed I would get the same OEM shock even my trailer pin weight is around 3000 pounds since the airbag is OEM. How about the front steer brake shoe and drum. What is the best place to get a set of the this? Is there a disc version that can be used without modification. Any advice on these repair services will be appreciated. This is a first on this truck. Thanks. Picture link
  4. Padraic

    Rust Rust Rust and more Rust

    Owning an older HDT can be costly if you can't do a lot of work yourself. Most of us have the expectation that HDT is not any more expensive than a pickup truck is true. The equation is better is if you can keep the truck for long.
  5. Padraic

    TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Thanks, for the info. Sound like it is not a critical item for the hitch operation since some system don't have one. Mine is old with a fading label. It is a good question of the design to damping a 7000 lb load or 3000 in my case. Amazon has the Monroe shock.
  6. Padraic

    TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Chet or anyone know the shock absorber used in this hitch? Model and part number for a replacement? Is it a special item or auto parts store may have it? Thanks.
  7. Padraic

    TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Chet, thanks for the detail operation of the hitch. #7 and #8 pin is critical holding the top of the Holland head to the base. I agreed that should stay put. I was wonder how it was put in during the manufacturing process. It will be a better design if there a small lock plate to block the pin from coming out.
  8. Padraic

    TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Chet, thanks for the posts. I study the diagram you list on the website. I downloaded that before and it seems the Holland head is mounted upside down in that application than ours. The part diagram is good but lack of a line to see what went into what. With your description. I started to get how the head put together. The #8 Groove pin tap on in the #7 Clevis pin to prevent the Clevis pin comes out the #13 fifth wheel housing. Mine is better on one side than the other. #8 miss the hole by 1/8 to 1/4 inches with rust. This is how the head attached to the pivot base with #7. It seems, there must be a way to slide that #7 with #8 in place out if the head put in particular position. I assume that is the design to put #7 in during the manufacturing process. I called Trailersaver today, and they recommended to put grease on pin #7 and replace it when the Clevis pin has 1/8 or 1/4 play which is not a too technical way to gauge. I guess if the clevis pin doesn't fall out. The head should stay put. It will nice if that hole is close up once the head is built. #20 the big bolt acts as a pivot and connect the Holland head to the Trailersaver base. That is a critical item for the assembly to work. Mine has rust, and Trailersaver tech recommends to take it out and examine for worn. At 50K miles use, I think it is OK but taking it out for sure. The #3 Clevis pin which holding the jaw #1 using #2 cotter pin, correct? So that cotter pin is critical. Is there a way to replace #2 without disassembly? When the trailer kingpin is in position during travel, those #3 clevis pins should stay put since the trailer is on the top of it prevent it falling out, correct? The locking block #5 movement is critical for the unit to work, after hitch up. The #17 trip level swing to the head means the block is blocking the jaw from open during travel and tension by the #6 compression spring. That is one item to double check after hitch up.
  9. Padraic

    TSLB2H hitch maintenance

    Hi guys. is there an instruction to take apart the Holland Binkley head from the Trailersaver base. Our hitch is 16 years old with 50K miles on it. I want to take it apart as much as I can, replace cotter pins. Examine the locking jar and locking block. Check those large Clevis pins and see how they work to ensure all are well before hitching. I am thinking the big Pivot (Axis) Bolt which allow the head to roll side to side, is the first item to unbolt and free the head from the body? Anyone did a full maintenance scrub down on this hitch? The hitch we have is the early version. The body (back) hinges that allows the head assembly to float on the airbag, are two big bolts with the lock nut in a tubing with the grease zerk for lubrication. Anything to watch out in servicing the hitch? Thanks.
  10. Padraic

    Truck Repair

    Nice job for a good look truck. Sound like you can do everything yourself to save money. You have a million miles on it, is that much different in an older truck than the newer in feature and equipment? What kind of engine and transmission? How do you go by find truck like that?
  11. Padraic

    Truck Repair

    For my education, what was the truck age and mileage when you acquired. Did you expect that? I guess I was lucky.
  12. Padraic

    Truck Repair

    I wonder, anyone has a $22K in repair. What does an engine overhaul cost? Like, replace the 6 sleeves, piston, valve and cam/crank shift. Parts and/or labor cost.
  13. Padraic

    Truck Repair

    Maybe my figure was not clear. $22K for the truck, 445K original miles. Now after 16 years of ownership. The odometer stated 485K. 40K miles during fulltime for 9 years. Stored another 7 years. Maybe the truck still worth for 15K. That will be $0.175 per mile. If the truck can get to 1 million miles, that would be $0.04 per mile plus repair and fuel.
  14. Yours is Pete, I saw this youtube video on clutch Volvo spring replacement. Is it the same issue in your case? This looks easy.
  15. Padraic

    Truck Repair

    Speaking of the cost of this lifestyle and truck repair, I was a little shock with the repair cost in getting back on the road. The diesel mechanics are young, and some were not that experienced. We started our fulltime in 2002 with my HDT 1998 VLN610 (445K miles) from Knight retired truck. I paid $2200 purchase price and $55K brand new Mountainaire trailer. That was it. When I look at the price today, similar four years old HDT sell for double the price and the new trailers were up to $100K at a minimum. I understand today vehicles have more belt and whistle and thus of cost increase. We were fulltime until 2011, and I can write off my total RV expense with the rental cost of living in an apartment in Dallas Texas. I was happy to see that cost equation. Like anything else, inflation has crept in no matter what the official number. Our truck was great on the pocketbook at the repair department. In those early days, fluid and tires change was the only cost. We did have the same water leak on the passenger side of the truck. We were in a campground before our maiden voyage and be able to fix it myself for cheap. I built my truck bed using $2000 of steel and brought $2500 welding equipment in 2003 for my welder friend who created it for me based on my design from Autocad. Back then, I was total into RV lifestyle, I live and think RV in all my waking hours. So we did it with less cost than living a regular housing arrangement. The bonus was to see the country free. Seeing today cost in acquiring the same quality setup would be out of reach for us then. I can't believe a fully build HDT, and a nice bed today can sell for $100K plus if I see at the right place. Not that it not worth the cost if someone is in this lifestyle. For me, the value is no longer there. I was going into HDT for value, low cost, and safety for the money. The value equation is tremendous then. It is questionable today if I can't do most of the work myself. Like, pick my own truck, build my own bed and do the repair. This is just a reflection of mine, the way of looking RVing on the cheap sentiment back in 2002. A history what it was. Not to make a judgment how other see what is right for them and for me, not totally get the cost RV market being so high. A sign of getting old.