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Smitty77_7

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  1. Smitty77_7

    radiant heat for floors

    I would think Hydronic Heating under the floor surface, usually tile in a coach (Which also provides a good heat sink/mass too...) would be the way to go. In your rig, a AquaHot or HydroHot installed. With ether it's own diesel tank, or possibly a feed from your tractors tanks(?). Would provide adequate fuel to feed it. The floor heating, electric or in this case hydronic, does take along time to build up the heat in the flooring. We have 50A tile floor heating in our kitchen and bathroom areas. If I set it to say 90 degrees, it will take over two hours for it to build up to 80 or so degrees, in ambient temperatures of the mid 30's to low 40's. (We usually only use it when temps will drop below 40.). So retrofitting your flooring with hydronic heating, fed either by diesel fired Aqua/HydroHot units. Or, propane water heating unit, should be doable. I believe Entegra was providing a hydronic floor heating in some of their units. Might want to check on how they fed them. Pretty sure it was AquaHot. Best of luck to you, Smitty
  2. Thanks Doc - Two Thumbs Up for this Ranger expansion. I tell my family and friends to keep things as KISS as possible!!! But, then I myself - enjoy new products and services becoming available... and will watch as things develop. While maybe not as easy to retrofit as to design for the future. Many more hundred of thousand customers have 'used' RV's - vs new. So a much larger potential client base with a product that can be integrated, sure a reasonable cost, to older RV's.... Best to you, and the WiFiRanger gang!!! Smitty
  3. Smitty77_7

    How long should batteries last

    For serious off grid camping. Do continue your off grid electric arsenal to add a battery monitoring system. The Bogart unit recommended, had been a well used and understood highly regarded unit. Victron is not a new kid to the block, and also have a good rep. One has more goodies then the other to play with, and only you can decide which one you'd want to run with. And remember that the voltage being reflected is 'non resting' voltage. Suspect the battery Voltage to SOC chart you're looking at is referring to 'at rest' voltages. Which because of the way we boon dock, is not very easy to obtain:)! Once you get you choice of energy monitoring in place. You can then go thru various systems and disconnect them, to see where you are consuming Amp Hours in a non value added way. Trim this down as much as possible. And then go thru some energy auditing days of camping, especially overnight, and learn your actually energy consumption. This will allow you the ability to decide how to mange your battery to balance usage vs charging:)! Best o luck to you, Smitty
  4. Smitty77_7

    Rigs 10 years of age or older and campsites

    IMO, the primary reason some parks have this rule listed, is to as mentioned, keep derelict units out of their parks. I also have not doubt, that some parks have this rule because the feel it sets them apart from others parks. I find the few parks that seem to do the later, are parks that we really have no interest in staying in:)! And it's amazing, when doing online reservations that actually ask you to provide you model year - that it's very easy to accidental type the wrong year. And thus my 04 coach, become an 09:)! Have never even been questioned when checking in. I do believe, also as mentioned, that well cared for RV's are welcomed by most parks, regardless of age. Does not bother me at all, to head elsewhere for parks that have a firm 'No Exception's' ten year rule... Best to all, Smitty
  5. I'll come clean. I was holding out in my first response... The secret to good connectivity, anywhere in the USA. Follow these steps: 1) Go to your local cable provider 2) Sign up for the plan that meets your needs 3) Hook your cable to their service, and before leaving, ensure the internal equipment is working well with it 4) Slowly pull away from the provider, as you reel out cable from you spool ---- Next: An Important Safety Tip --- 5) Convert the number of feet of cable on the reel to miles. Set our trip odometer to the number of miles of cable, minus a few, for contingency. 6) Stop short of running out of cable. And splice in a new reel for the next leg of the trip. Other Obvious Best Practices while traveling with Optimum Cable Connections: > Avoid lane changes as much as possbible > User 'break away' connections > Be prepared for sign language from travelers around you > Call a few days in advance, of technical problems, to allow travel time from your provider And on a personal note, on behalf of my retirement traveling plans: > If you buy any of the above. Please contact me for my Go Fund My Travel site info > Do carry higher then normal Umbrella Insurance > Understand that many motorists are upset with bicyclist that ride tandem or triple on some roadways. If your cable takes a few of them out with only road rashes - you gain a month's free cable coverage per cyclist (And, the last comment was satisfying to write, but for sure in best, and politically in correct. I know I personally really enjoy being caught on a narrow road where I'm to 'Share the Road' with no Roadway Tax Paying cyclist's, that in a very friendly way let me know that they have rights to block the roadways at 10, 20, 30MPH below the posted speed limit. And I know they know they're backing up many, when they wave an understanding signal finger salute to those who are behind me honking...) (OH wait!! To be clear, it is not OK to take out cyclist with the cable you are pulling behind you!). And yes, I admit. I'm starting out strong, to get my post count up to the next "K" milestone. So far behind Kirk, and other's - but I can dream to have 5K + posts in my future...:)! Best to all, and sorry for my evening fun, Smitty (Was this 1002? Or 1003? Posts!!!)
  6. Smitty77_7

    tires on the beach

    The devil is in the detail:)! If you have a 45" coach extreme weight, lowering the PSI too low could easily compromise the tire. And I suspect even a shorter length and weight rig, will have tires that have "Minimum PSI" without causing tire damage. I suggest that whatever the rig (Truck with trailer/fiver. Truck with camper. Class B or C or A.) - the safest thing to do is get your weights of specific rig, per axle, and call the tech support of our tire manufacturer. Explain it will on sand at relatively low speeds(?). And ask them for input on the lowest PSI that is safe for the casing/sidewalls for the specific tire. I do realize that many go out and lower PSI to ride on sand, in all kinds of vehicles. But if you stress a tire, you could impact structure. And this, could result in future failures. Not fun, losing a tire at speed on a highway. Taking an hour or so of research with the specifics for your tire and weights involved - is worth doing. All just my opinion... Best to all, be safe, have fun, Smitty
  7. If only buying one OTA antenna, the one mentioned is the unit I would buy. (And did, along with he RAZR Auto:)!) Best to you, Smitty
  8. One of these times when it really is a personal decision on what is important to the person writing the check:)! No really right of wrong. And, I know of many RV'er's that find that their opinions will change over the years, based upon changes in how they're using a coach. I'll make a few comments, that I believe to be real, from my experiences: > Class A DP's will typically be more expensive for yearly maintenance. Especially if you move up into the higher level's DP's, as they have more goodies to maintain. > Class A Gasser's can provide very satisfying environments, and are probably pretty much on par with a Tow Vehicle and Fiver maintenance costs. > I believe Class A's with Toads are easier to setup/breakdown camps, while coming & going. > Nice to not need to leave a Class A to use the head, and or get a meal, and pull into a say a pull thru campground in increment weather, and decide to wait to do final campground set up for nicer weather:)! > 40-45' DP's, can provide as much room for living, as all but the largest Fiver's. Many have TV's in not looking up towards the front cap angle. > Top end Fiver's, can be just as extravagant as higher end DP's. > I believe most higher end DP's have greater CCC and cargo capacity then Fiver's. > Unless a fiver is being towed by a MDT/HDT rig, the view and height of a DP or Gasser, is going to provide greater viewing opportunities while driving. > At the entry to mid price ranges, a Gasser Class A and Tow vehicle and Fiver can be found. > Also at the entry to mid price ranges, a DP and higher end Tow vehicle and Fiver can be found, by dropping years to remain within budget range. > I agree with for traveling, Class A. For longer term stay's at parks, Fiver. ===== I'll stop here. And also provide an opinion that if a person considering this for the first time, meaning know actual RV'ing experience. That I feel it's better to get into this at a lower to mid price point. Go out and do some traveling and camping for awhile. Observe what you like, and don't like. Also watch other's around you, and see if other likes and dislikes pop up. After a year or so, evaluate what you have, and if not what you want. Then start the process over on finding what you want for the long haul (At least for now.), and go shopping. A final observation, seen here on the Escapee's many times. And also give and advice many times. Have an Exit Strategy in place. Understand that what is right for you now, may no longer be right for you in 10, 15, 20+ years. As you travel, visit some of the Escapees COOP's and other parks, and look at the transition that many Escapee's members make. You'll see more stationary Class A'/Fiver's/Trailers - that are no longer traveling. You'll find in many parks, that members have gone to Park Models, and in some cases, bought smaller Class B's or Trucks with Campers, to still get out and about for shorter hops. Many have a Northern base, and a Southern base. And fly or drive a vehicle as the seasons change. The post of this final observation, is life changes:)! Good luck to you on whatever you choose, go have some fun, Smitty
  9. Smitty77_7

    NEWPOWA Solar Panels

    Bill - I wish you the best of luck on the new panels. Once you get some time on them, please update with how things are going:)! And for other's reading this post in the future, I too have X's 5 residential 240W Panasonic 48V panels mounted to conventional Stick & Brick mounting racks. Also screwed and glued, I used 3M 5200, for the racks. I also had fabricated for front and back of the rack, angled pieces of aluminum mental strips. These are 3M glued down to the roof. Their job is to help guide any small tree branches up and over, vs getting caught under, the rack of panels. Also over 45K miles of travel over 6 years, and also a trip to Alaska and back. I do a yearly inspection of all mechanical components as far as connection to the roof. All have never budged. And, we rode out a Microcell South in North Dakota, that toppled several trailers and well over 100 trees, in the campground above the Missouri River. (Slides in, power unhooked, coach a rocking and a rolling, park ranger said gust into the low 90's before their station was knocked out.). Back to the flexible solar panels, I've seen that Airstream is including what looks to be roof hugging flexible panel(?), with a border around, in the top of some of their trailers. And I know many boater's that used flexible panels. I think each type of panel has an appropriate application, but wind movement/loss of hard panels - is not a major issue that I'm aware of:)! Best to all, Smitty
  10. Smitty77_7

    RGV Cheap RV lots

    Also take a visit to the parks county, and research any liens on a deeded lot... Delinquent taxes, HOA's, etc. Best of luck on your quest, Smitty
  11. Smitty77_7

    ***SOLD*** 2014 HONDA CRV-EXL

    Since it does not say AWD, is it safe to assume it is Front Wheel Drive only? And good luck not he sale. That's a great toad for some one who is not concerned about AWD:)! Best, Smitty
  12. Smitty77_7

    Getting started?

    Technomadia's sites Top Picks, I find to be an easy approach to research:)! Good luck to you, Smitty
  13. Smitty77_7

    water leak at front end cap and roof

    X's 2 on adding EternaBond over the self leveling sealant. We did the caps and side rails on our old Bounder with 4" tape. Now 12-13 years later, the new owner still stops by to visit, and the tape is still holding/protecting well. Good luck to you, Smitty
  14. Smitty77_7

    Mobley/United Explore SIM error

    Please do keep us updated as things change. Unite Explore being the problem seems a bit odd(?). Now you're going to make me do some looking to see what software version is reflected on mu Unite Explore with the Mobley SIM installed. (Knocking on wood, no similar problems at this time:)!) Best to you, Smitty
  15. Smitty77_7

    TST Tire Monitor

    TST did the same for us when we had or 7 year monitor stop holding a charge. Asked me to send in the old, and they sent me a new one. They back their product, and also are very helpful when sorting out confusion by the person holding the monitor for programming too:)! Best to all, Smitty
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