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About Smitty77_7

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  1. Glad you found someone to help you, and that knows Roadmaster's. Please ask his opinion of the 'fix' that was done. And if it was not the Source Engineering fix, his opinion on that kit. In the dusty corners of my memory, when researching to buy our coach now 9-11 years ago (Took a few years to find the one we went with:)!), I think I remember the RR4R recall was about as effective as the Norcold 1200's... I'd rather you research this and find out that my memory is wrong, and that you confirm with this gent that you have a solid Trailing Arm system on your coach. But if not - well, it's all about safety:)! Bumped into this thread about 5 minutes ago: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/trailing-arms-on-my-rv-440805.html Again, hope all is well and that you just need a good alignment and off you go:)! Best to you, Smitty
  2. The MR1100, latest version with Band14. And I don't have an answer to the time out question yet, will towards the end of next week:)! But, we've had the SIM in the Unite Explore for about two years, and no time outs. I did get the PUK1 & PUK2 info, and followed fellow Escapees Technomadia's on configuration updates. (RVMOBILEINTERNET - It's a good tool to add to your resource kit while researching. They have a Members Only content, that is IMO worth the cost of membership. I like to spend a few hours a month monitoring things in this arena, so renew my membership yearly with them. I know some who join them for Exclusive Content, while doing initial setup research:)!). Best to you, Smitty
  3. I believe that era Safari, under Monaco as the builder, use the RR4R Road Mastermaster chassis? I'm sorry I can't recall from earlier posts when you were shopping for Class A's, if you ever determined if the RR4R chassis had been taken care of? The Roadmaster Chassis benefited with some After Market modifications, for handling issues. (And I believe I remember they had a Safety Recall too(?). Source Engineering has a kit that helps the RR4R: http://sourcerv.com/trailing_arm This kit is well thought of by those that have had it added. If this has not been added yet, and rear components are failing, you could get unusual ride and handling conditions. If not added, I'd put this on your radar, and have it installed - then do an 'all axle alignment' and a good chassis shop. If in that region, the mentioned JoSam(SP?) in Florida - has a great reputation. You might also want to call and talk with Source Engineering on what you are experiencing, they maybe able to confirm if a failing/failed rear suspension component could cause what your feeling. (And of course, if your coach has had the Kit installed - could easily be a simple front end knocked out of alignment by our wonderful freeways:)!) If back in Souther California, I'd comparison shop on the phone between Redlands and Colton Trucks. Both you good equipment, and both do good jobs on alignments. But back 7-8 year ago - Redlands RV wanted over twice the amount to do the alignment vs Colton Trucks... I drover San Diego to Colton Truck for the alignment, and they did a great job. If in the Pacific Northwest, Eugene's Kaiser Brake & Alignment is also well regarded. Henderson Line Up and Brazel's also get positive feedback (Though I admit I can't recall if Brazel's does alignments too:)!). Travel safe, and keep enjoying your new 'roughing it' Safari - a fine coach to travel in:)! Best, Smitty
  4. Other considerations are 5G is coming... So perhaps the lower cost option is the way to go, to bridge over to 5G equipment in the future. And then you'd also still have 3G capability too... I just went thru a similar thought process on our ATT MiFi. Our Unite Explore is fine, and with roof top MIMO antennas, has provided us with some amazing download speeds in places. But also reading RVMOBILEINTERNET, I decided to go ahead now and get the Netgear Nighthawk, and moved my SIM (Mobley SIM) over into it. Still may sell my Unite Explore 815S on Craigslist, but leaning towards keeping it as my back up, and selling it my current ATT backup MIFI. My rational is that I usually am not an early adopter of new gear, and 5G will have lots of new gear and chips coming out ahead. And thus the Nighthawk will probably bridge into 2021 maybe 2022 before I spring for a 5G MiFi. The upgrades being made to cell towers for 5G, will in some areas be able to take advantage of the 4X4 MIMO the Nighthawk has, vs the Unite Explore is 2X2 MIMO. Have just made change over this last week, and we do not hit the road until next week - so it will be a few weeks until I see if I can detect any performance improvements (I care about DL speeds.) with the Nighthawk vs Unite Explore. And I'm sure I'll spend time disconnecting the rooftop MIMO antenna from time to time, and see if the Nighthawks 4X4 outperforms it in some locations too... Your realization about 3G being important too you, does kind of simplify this for you. But suppose you could also pick up a used inexpensive MIFI just for 3G duty also... Lots of options, and no real right or wrong on the approach:)! Best to you, travel safe, have fun, Smitty
  5. Thanks for the 10 vs 30 minute, must have misread... And Catch 22 for sure. Boon docking is the best time to test, but you also usually want a good charge to go into the evening with:)! Wonder if you tried a test with the Solar Controller off if that might show something too. Very possible the positive voltage going into the battery is enough to make the EC30 think it's reached Stop @ Voltage settings.... Someone may hav already suggested this. But in the AM get some readings at batteries with a Multimeter. When the sun is up a bit more and hitting the panels well, take another reading at the battery. If you trick the EC30 into starting, (Maybe set the Start @ V up closer to higher charged.) take another reading at the batteries once the charger has kicked in. And remember after each mental exercise, lubricate the mind well with a good Scotch! (May not help you find the magical settings that need to be tweaked, or possibly a problem - but you'll feel better anyways:)!) Best, Smitty
  6. Not familiar with the EC30 (Had to google it to see that it's a Cummins/Onan product:)!). But if I understand, your generator is starting, and then consistently stopping after 30 Minutes(?). If this is the case, then the "Time @ Stop V" is probably set to 30 minutes(?). I'd double check the settings one more time, and make sure the Start @ V and Stop @ V values are appropriate for your specific set of AGM's. If you see a setting of 30 minutes at the "Time @ Stop V", change that to a different time and see if the Generator the stops at that time frame. (This would show that it is related to these combinations of values.). And as mentioned, these Voltage Start and Stop values, are at their best when the battery bank is fully rested. A battery under usage, and or charge - could easily fool these values. You might also experiment with the setting of the Voltage Stop V level higher, but never higher then the specific Battery Manufactures recommended Bulk Voltage value. You also might want to recheck the wiring of your new batteries, to be sure that the EC30 is properly connected to the full House Bank. (Recall one gent who had problems with his coaches auto generator behaving funny, and found it was somehow reading the Chassis, not the House:)!). At least by experimenting, when Cummins Tech Support does get back with you, you'll have more info to share:)! Best of luck to you. And please come back and update what you find out, as it could help others down the road:)! Smitty
  7. I have no problem with the question/request for info sharing:)! I still get a roll of the DW's eyes each time I use it, but I've coined the term 'Permanent Part Time Full Timers' in describing what we're currently doing. We have a Vacation home in California, that we visit off and on during the year with times varying from a few weeks, to usually a max of 2 months at a time. With year by year variations of total time visited of 3-5 months. Usually we do a longer visit, and then a shorter visit to the home during the year. Doing the math, we're typically spend a few months in AZ and NM in January - March timeframes. Then we spend a 4-7 months usually somewhere in the Western States:)! We also had a site at Park of the Sierras in Coarsegold, CA (Escapee COOP), which we elected to sale when we changed our Domicile to SD as we shifted into retirement. We're on the waiting list at Evergreen in Chimacum, WA Escapee COOP. We recently bought a deeded lot in Pacific Shores, Newport, OR. And we continue to scout out a Arizona or New Mexico location for our Forever Home, or possibly another Escapees COOP with a Park Model - not rushing this, but have it on our radar. So add that to the responses from others. To me, 'Full Timer's' - is as much a state of mine, as it is technically 365 Days in a trailer, fiver, B, C, A - whatever... I assure you, our 'State of Mine's', and hearts, are Full Timer's:)! (And yep, OK for others to not see us as such... But hope they allow me to get the roll of the eyes when I say 'Permanent Part Time Full Timer's!'. Best to all, have fun, be safe, Smitty
  8. Smitty77_7


    OP - I'm not a testing member of the group you referenced. But I do sincerely believe that quality of the construction, choice of materials, counters, flooring, fixtures, dual pane vs single pane, insulation, etc., etc., etc. - Does lean towards a higher quality, future up the food chain, RV/Trailer/Fiver/Class C/Class B, etc. - RV, would yield a better overall experience for long term full timing. An example. We had a 1999 Fleetwood T-28 Bounder, on a F53 chassis. It kept us dry, it took us to some remarkable places, it was small enough to get to most places. It was not, after about $3-4K of suspension upgrades - a comfortable long day driver. (We did, when needed, 11 hours + of driving in that coach. But admit, after 7-8 hours, including breaks, we were tired and sore form the ride. Inside living was OK for short periods of time, and yep - we were younger then too! But after about 2-3 weeks, that RV got small, the combo shower and restroom sharing even among just the two of us - got old. The RV, with regular care and loving maintenance never left us stranded. But, we nick named her 'Rattle and Roo (Bounder mascot is a Kangaroo:)!)' for a reason. (We bought her with about 50K miles on her, and sold her with 87K on her.) She was not good in cold weather. She was not good in hot weather. Her tanks were small. He amenities and refrigerator were small - and yep, we still remember her fondly - but, she was not a great coach for full timing. We do like our current coach, and do feel we have adequate space, carrying capacity, hot/cold weather capabilities, tanks are fine, much (Much!) better construction, components, materials, livability space, etc. Our coach is not at the top of the pecking order of high end coaches. But it is well built, with good materials and components. We choose it due to the KISS approach of easier and simpler systems - but still with we feel superior attention to detail in design, construction, and chassis that provides a very solid foundation. First determine budget, and leave reserve funds for making a coach your coach, as well as the unexpected:)! Go kick many tires, sit in many coaches, and get a list of Must Have's and Nice to Have's. Get down to a short list of makes/models/years that you feel fit your lists of key items, and relative budget. I'm personally in favor for full timing in an RV, with DP's, with higher CCC, and space. BUT I've seen some very good quality Gas Class A's too. Yes, the chassis of either Workhorse or old GM, or Ford F53's - will usually never come close to a DP chassis. But, if our expected usage is to go to a location and stay for a few months at a time - gasser vs DP is not as important - as long as it is a good but gas Class A (And the do exist!!!) That being said. Don't be afraid to drop years to remain within budget, and buy the highest quality RV that you can. Quality lasts. And higher quality, usually comes in a DP:)! Get your list of what you feel is the one's you're interested in. Then go do your shopping. And most important. Stay true to what is important to you. It does not really matter what I, or other posters think - it's going to be you living, driving, maintaining - whatever you end up buying and living with. So it's what's important to you. That's just mu opinion, and as I say - my opinion does not matter - it's your opinion(s) that matters... Best to you, and all, Smitty
  9. https://campaddict.com/portable-solar-panels/ I recalled reading this review when a neighbor with a Class B was looking for a little added juice to his coach. He actually ended up going with a combo panel and lithium battery. (Said he could use it around the home in case of power outages, so though more expensive, he felt the double duty and emergency prep justified the cost (Or he told his wife that:)!). He went with a Yeti solution Go Zero. https://www.goalzero.com/product-features/portable-power-stations/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw7sDlBRC9ARIsAD-pDFoPjkBUR9c71v2C0oiPUe4Hvcg1oyBr1rFpGX2auoiXxNcKnJXUMtkaAgfOEALw_wcB# Travel safe, and have some fun, Smitty
  10. OP - With the 5G starting to slowly (SLOWLY) roll out, I would not invest too much money in a hotspot at this time. Unless, you feel it's OK to do so to get you out say 2+ years of usage. If you want to save some funds now, I'd suggest looking for a used Unite Explore 815S, used or refurbished in the $65-90 range. Run with that for a few years, and then buy a 5G capable HotSpot when the rollout has evolved far enough to make sense to do so. As like Dutch, and others here too, I saw no reason to upgrade to the latest Nighthawk, a far more capable piece of equipment then the Unite Explore 815S is. If my device were to break today, I'd probably go ahead and spend the money on a used or refurbished Nighthawk in the $150 + or - $20 range, but only because we crave high download speeds. And I'd be willing to approximately double the costs of investing in the Nighthawk. Which I'd suspect would support me well for two or so years until I believe I'd be ready to start looking for 5G capable gear. It all depends upon how much you want to spend.... No comments on the ATT plans, as that has been covered. The data provided by Technomadia is always good info:)! In reality, both of the above devices, especially with external antennas (Does not have to be on the roof as I have. You could get the Netgear directional MIMO antenna unit you put on an inside window.), should yield great download speeds in good coverage areas. Best of luck to you, have fun, Smitty
  11. Another factor is the equipment used. We have both Verizon and ATT, but with two different methods of equipment paths: >Verizon = Samsung S8, data via HotSpot. Sometimes assisted with either Maximum Signal Cellular or WeBoost Sleek cellular amps, depending upon what combination of none, M.S. or Sleek provides the best Download Speeds. >ATT = DW's Iphone 7S, data via HotSpot. But also a Unite Explore 815S. Same combo of cellular amps available to either of these pieces of equipment. But we also have roof top MobileMark MIMO magnetic antenna, feeding the MIMO feeds of the Unite Explore. We usually find that our champion download speeds in many areas, is provided via the Unite Explore 815S with the MobileMark MIMO combination. (SIM in the Unite Explore is from our Mobley unit, so we could access the MIMO antenna on the roof.) We travel usually in the Western states, from New Mexico/Colorado/Wyoming/Montana and over to the West from those states. (Occasional visits to South Dakota too.). And yes, we still find places where we have no coverage, or only coverage from one carrier - so for us, it's worth having both carriers at this time. I recall what a gent said over on IRV2, back in the days of I think 3G, which is 'Have multiple communication tools in your tool box, IF being online is important to you.' (And this was before the current heavy streaming of today.) I always remembered that, when planning out communication for Data paths and upgrades. I usually adopt newer technology, after the first rush and 'Release 1's' are over... Best to all, have fun, be safe, Smitty
  12. Here's an 'all in one' kit from Zamp. Permanent mounted 170W panel for the roof, 3 stage controller, wiring, and mounting brackets. Spec's say a bit over 9A, figure 7A for planning purposes. 3-4 hours of good sun, would yield you 21-28A back into your battery back. I usually plan for 5 hours of good strong sunshine, so perhaps as low as 35A to as high as 45A in that peak time. The hours before and after peak, should yield you another 20-30A too, so possibly to see 65-75A range very easily. If you find you want to increase your power consumption, and say add a battery, this kit has enough up side capacity to handle two batteries, say Grp 31 again, and you can add other panels to bump up watts of sun harvesting. I just added this link, as an example. Whatever way you go, I'd recommend leaving some extra headroom capacity on any controller you might add. Small extra cost now, and it's amazing how many people I know have started with XX solar watts, and ended up with XXXX solar watts:)! On Amazon, you or google Zamp, you can also see they have some suit case portable units, which was also a suggestion from the above input. It has the benefit of being portable, so you can angle it, and change the angle during the day, to obtain higher Amps out of the the Watts available. No right or wrong, just choices:)! Best of luck to you, Smitty https://www.amazon.com/ZAMP-SOLAR-KIT1005-Deluxe-Solar/dp/B07GNLQ9PM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=IF24HCHLM7OK&keywords=zamp+solar&qid=1554990274&s=gateway&sprefix=amp%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-4
  13. We do spread our's around to other units, depending upon location and which provider has the best coverage DL speeds. Frequently we consume between 100-150GB. However this short trip of the year, the DW jammed her little toe (One tiny little thing, and boy did it impact her ability get out and about. Probably saved me a few hundred a week, as she could not comfortably get out to go 'get a few things':)!). So she watched a few full seasons of shows. Breaking Bad was probably the big user:)! And caught up on a few movies too. While not as much as a factor, I spent much more time streaming Pandora and Spotify to my Can's as I spent lots of time outside reading with music playing too. 230+ GB over the period:)! And that was via Mobley SIM in a Unite Explore 815S MiFi. And probably another 10GB on Verizon S8 HotSpot when I was outside music listening, and used the HotSpot for some streaming to the LapTop outside too. Best to all, Smitty
  14. John T - That's a Blue Light Special for sure (Oh wait, that was the other 'mart', as in K-Mart:)!). Good score on those:)! Smitty
  15. If you boon dock quite a bit, and plan on keeping the Aspect long enough to amortize the costs out. You could really spend some coin and shift to drop in lithiums. This LifeBlue is a well thought of Lithium, in Grp 31 (Which is what I believe the Aspect came with X's 2 Grp 31's?): https://www.lifebluebattery.com/rv-boat-lithium-ion-batteries-1/125ah-lithium-battery.html Yep, quite a bit more expensive going to this upfront. But it pays dividends back by lasting quite a bit longer DoD Lifecycle wise, so costs over time will sometimes pencil out to be less then the costs of multiple AGM's replacements. It can be discharged down to a bit below 85%. I'd use 75% of rated 125AH, or 250AH for X's 2 of these, so about 187AH's available, with some contingency left to boot! Lithiums charge much faster then Wet/AGM, so solar could cover you replenishment needs. And they don't go thru the traditional Bulk/Absorb/Charge cycles. You just bomb away with full Bulk until they're just about fully charged. Another advantage, is they do not need to be brought back up to 100% SOC every 3-5 days, like Wet/AGM's do to avoid lost capacity. And, they a bit lighter weight too. The LifeBlue are considered a 'drop in' lithium, and have a Battery Management System (BMS) incorporated. Possible battery compartment modification would be required, or relocate these somewhere inside of the coach, and convert the existing battery bay to more external storage, as Lithium's do have a more stringent temperature range. The BMS protects the battery from itself, and you may not find the temperature range too much of a problem, depending on how you camp. ====== All of the above was to just assist you spend some coin:)! And this link to AMSOLAR's website, includes some good comparison info between AGM and Lithium Drop In's, down towards the bottom. DoD Life Cycles are included here. And realize if you only consume say 50% of the overall battery capacity each cycle, that usage would double the rated Life Cycle reflected. (So LifeBlues would potentially yield 5600 days of cycling usage at 50%. Vs say Lifeline would potentially yield 2000 days of cycling usage at 50%.) (Note, that's not how it really would work, but you get the idea of how a potentially extended life of usage could spread that costs out over quite period. And it does not factor the other benefits of say much faster recharge, potentially all by solar.) And did I mention they're lighter weight? That's nice for while installing, and every few pounds less weight, could yield more wine carrying capacity in your Aspect!!! ====== All that being said. I have Lifeline (X's 4 L16's) and they're a rock solid performer. I've heard many positives about Fullriver too. When my bank of L16's need replacing, which I hope is in 6-8 years out timeframe. I expect Drop In lithiums prices will have dropped even more, and I'll shift over to lithiums at that time. And that should be the last bank of batteries we'll need for this coach. As I'd expect a lithium bank to last 12-15 years, or longer... ====== No right or wrong on this, just choices. And as I was reading the thread, I found myself nodding at the input from the gang:)! Best to you, Smitty
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