Smitty77_7

Validated Members
  • Content count

    850
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Smitty77_7

  • Rank
    Major Contributor

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    OnDRoad

Optional Fields

  • Lifetime Member
    Yes

Recent Profile Visitors

15,851 profile views
  1. 50A power cord and as mentioned the higher output generator provides you with more capability for non power situations. You could also negotiate the install of a Winegard Travler, or other dish, into the purchase. Only you two can decide which layout and interior of a coach fits your need the best. That being said, I would second taken a close look at the Newmar gas model line up... If you order from the factory, they will also allow some adjustments to the build process for things you may want to change. (Not a lot of items, but for sure it is worth considering as far as an mod's you might want to ask for...) And, taking delivery of a new coach at Newmar, allows you to try things out for a few days, a week, whatever - and maybe avoid a trip back for any new coach touch up's at say a dealer. Newmar does a good job, so I've read, on at factory pick-up experience:)! But, does not matter, if the other two have already won the race as to what the two of you want:)! Best of luck to you, Smitty
  2. I have them both active. Use one as a primary when ATT Mobley signal is strong. The second is for if we see network de-prioritazation on the 1st unit (Which we have not.), and as a redundant item. My Wife has an ATT account in her name (Actually, Pacific Bell in it's day - with a 200 prefix phone number on her line 'digital' first was a big thing:)!). We also have her Mom on this account, as a Family Plan. Their two phones, plus a Unite Explore, share 20GB of data per month, with one month rollover of unused data. (Her mom uses about .25GB a month on average. While traveling, I keep my Verizon S6 phones Hotspot activated, and she connects to that, as it is GFUDP. This helps reduce the use of the 20GB to when we need it for streaming. The Family Plan, and then the two Mobley's, are under her account. We dropped her long hung onto ATT Unlimited Data, hoping ATT would relax their rules and allow it to be used as a HotSpot on her iPhone 7. By giving that up, and adding the Unite Explore, and now two Mobley's, we're within $5 of the old monthly bill. Best, Smitty
  3. Not Dutch, and I bet he is glad I'm not:)! No adapter needed, the Mobley and Unite Explore have the same size SIM. Look into the Escapees Member's The 2C's (Technomadia) recommended great buy Net Gear inside MIMO antenna. (Amazon has them, sometimes a bit back ordered, for about $30.) They report this is a solid performance improver with the MIMO capable MiFi's, like the Unite Explore. And I agree with Dutch, the Unite Explore will have a further WiFi range for within the coach, and ours actually covers much of the outside sitting area too. We have ATT two Mobley's, one Unite Explore, and a Samsung S6 on Hotspot via my Verizon. The Unite Explore has been the performance Download Speed champion for us:)! Mobley does a fine job, within out coach as far as Wifi. You can attach a single antenna to it, or slide it into the cradle of say a Sleek Amplifier too. Best of luck to you, Smitty
  4. So, this should be the final post - having fun with my own updates:)! He did talk with Magnum, and they had him go recheck the Auxiliary/Chassis Blade Fuse again. Asked him to remove it, and put in another one. He did, and all is working as it should now... They recommended he buy the fuses that have light that goes on when blown, and the same thing they told me about 18 months ago - to move up to a 30A from 25A fuse. (Seems his installer also used the 25A that came with it, but for the kind of install he has (And me too...) 30A is more appropriate. He explained that once the chassis batter dropped low enough, he would no longer see a Green Status light. It would turn to Red for Fault. Which is what I had with my coach 18 months ago. That he agreed it was a bit misleading that the Status Light remains Solid Green even with a blown fuse to the Auxiliary/Chassis battery (Chassis in our RV install, for boats, it could be a generator battery, starter battery, etc.). So, I've updated my own notes to always check, and remove and test, my Auxiliary/Chassis blade fuse whenever I'm seeing 'unusual' voltage readings... Hopefully this will not be an ongoing problem for him, after going to 30A. In four or so years, I've had this happen only three times... Best to all, Smitty
  5. Received an email from the gent this morning, as he has moved on from the park we're in. When he got to the new park, he went thru normal set up including Shore Power, and his Charger kicked in, did not remain on too long, as the house was at 100% SOC, went into float mode reflecting 13.1V by his BMK Meter and also by his multi meter at the battery an the SBC too. SBC reflected the same Green Status light, indicating both batteries were seen, and no need to divert to the chassis (That is how I interpret the manual on the Status of solid green.) Connect and Low/High Disconnect are at Magnum's default settings. He said he then drew a draw off of the chassis battery for several hours, lights, radio, and hooked up an air compressor with hose clamps to the chassis battery, and was very popular as he'd run it for 10 mins, then off, then 10 mins, more - etc. He exercised the chassis battery downwards, for about three hours. Turned off everything, except for the earlier posts mention of parasitic draw down from the chassis (ECM's, Radio Memory, LP Detector, others(?). He waited 90 mins, then took a reading at the chassis battery with his multi meter. And a reading of 12.29V. He and I both felt, and house still showing 13.1V in Float Status. He and I both felt that the SBC should have shifted power over to chassis battery? But same solid green Status light is on. He said today he was going to a NAPA to purchase a hydrometer, and will pop his MF cap off and take a reading, to compare to the multi meters. I suggested he also send a request to Magnum for a Tech Support gent/lady to call him back, to review what he was seeing. (Get in line, as they can sometimes get some back up:)!). Any other thoughts on this, and I'll send them to him. (Invited him to join the Forum, even as a non Escapee member, and he does not seem to want to do that...). Very possible what I thought I understood about the SBC functionality, is faulty:)! Best to all, Smitty
  6. Just a tad bit tongue in cheek... On electrical connections. Clean the contact area well, snug up an even torque per spec (Yep, their is a spec for torquing just about everything:)!). Then just to be safe, either add a second locking nut. Or better, dip the bolt/nut into a plasma arc from the sun to help lock it not place... (Laser electron beams, amplified of course thru a warp capacitor accelerator oscillator, with fusion rapid cooling - is naturally, the best way to ensure a solid connection....). Loose lips sinks ships. And loose connections messes up electronics!!!! Best to all, Smitty
  7. I talked with my neighbor before they pulled out. He updated me that yesterday afternoon he had: -Observed that the SBC Status Light was solid Green, no other lights, indicating fully charged batteries based upon the SBC settings. -He had disconnected the ground from the chassis battery terminal, and just under four hours later, had a reading of 12.56V from his multi-meter. He still felt that was a bit low, but was pleased to see it raise from the values he'd read while under slight load. I suggested he do some monitoring of his House Batteries, and then check the setting on his Magnum. (It was programmed by the RV Tech that installed his battery, Magnum, and related Magnum components.). Pointed out that the combo between MS2xxx & SBC would not shift power to the Chassis - until the parameters that were programmed for the house were met. Good chance he is fine, maybe a bit on the low side on the Chassis. More monitoring of the Chassis battery would also be prudent... But coming back up some without load, is a positive. (Seems I recall that 6-8 hours of resting after load/charging, is better then under four hours?). He also told me that he had found the Battery Side of Life 1 & 2, that I had referred him to the first day. Has them saved, as well as he'd done lot's more surfing on battery management in general. Made me chuckle, as he said he felt a bit foolish for not knowing some of this already. I laughed a bit, and told him about every 3 to 4 months - I seem to learn what I thought I knew about batteries, our Magnum systems and components, our solar and MidNite Classic Controller, etc. - was in need of 'adjustment'... That it's all part of the RV'ing experience. And sure, sometimes the lessons are expensive (Two times I had less then 3 years on chassis battery of a previous coach. (Good quality batteries.) Until somewhere I read to also check where the ground attacks to the frame... So $$ lessons are OK, as long as you learn from them:)! Thanks again for the sanity test, best to all, Smitty
  8. A gent in the park we're in, walked over with his multi-meter and asked my opinion on the voltage he'd read on his coaches chassis battery. He read 12.48, with his house battery charger (MS2012, with the Smart Battery Combiner) having been off for over four hours. Single wet cell 8D Chassis Battery. (I have the MS2812 with the SBC, so familiar with it.). I first asked him if he'd observed the LED lights of the SBC before turning the Charger portion off. He said he had not. I then asked if he'd turned of the Main Battery Disconnect, rear main unit, not the in the door Salesman Switch - and he said he had not (Actually, he said he did not know he had one.) So I told him that his Chassis Battery was still supporting some minor loads (Radio, Onstar, LP Detector, ECM's, etc. And that I felt 12.48 range was fine. Maybe not full charged, but pretty dang close. I said I'd be surprised that if he were to either turn of the Main Battery Disconnect, or even better, disconnect the cables to the battery itself, and let sit for a few hours, he'd probably see the reading higher then the 12.48 he'd just measured. I also suggested he could turn his charger back on, let it sit for a bit, and then go look at the LED status of the SBC. Suspected he'd see that it was Status of Solid Green, and the Disconnected LED would be off - indicating both House and Chassis were fully charged. That if he'd monitor the SBC LED's for the next few days, he should catch the Status & Disconnected LED cycling thru different levels of charge maintenance. He said he was told by his FIL, that he should see a Greater Then 12.6V reading at the chassis. So was concerned his chassis was not doing well. Again suggested he disconnect the cable from the battery, let it rest, and then take another multi meter reading. And that IMO, 12.5 to 12.6V reading would be fine. (And again, to turn on the Magnum Charger, and monitor the SBC LED's - as I suspected he'd see the SBC felt the Chassis was fully charged, even with a 'moderate draw' of power reading of 12.48. And to stop at NAPA or Autozone and get a good quality tester and suck some juice up and get a reading to compare to the his multi meter. He's here for another two days, and if I've 'spoke with forked tongue' and given him bad info - be happy to go correct my thoughts. (Heck, I just stepped out and did a multi meter reading of my 8D chassis battery (Wet Maintenance Free 4 1/2 year old CAT battery.), and had a reading of 12.45V. My SBC Meter reflected Solid Green Status, and no Disconnect led on at all - so it feels all of the batteries are topped off fine...). I think, this reinforces my feedback to him. And looking at some reading I took back in January (Had blown a fuse on the SBC, so was monitoring things after replacing the fuse.), I had readings over four days of 12.45 - 12.58V under the same conditions. 12.97 - 13.0V when the SBC indicated it was charging the Chassis. Sure, long winded again - but hate to pass on bad info to a newer RV'er. So if I did, want to correct it before he heads on:)! TIA for Monday AM Quarterbacking for me, Smitty
  9. If your Wilson would boost an ATT phone or MiFi - it will boost the Mobley. If it's the Sleek, put the heat protecting manner of your choice, and lay it in the cradle. If you have a hershey's bar internal antenna, place the Mobley wherever you'd place your other devices. And for those wanting to extend the distance of being able to attach devices to your Mobley, look into WiFiRanger GOac, or Pepwave version, or even the Netgear or TP-Link extenders (Just pick one that is MIMO capable for faster throughput, and future proofing.). Best of luck to all:)! Smitty
  10. For the price, the Mobley is hard to beat:)! I have two of them in our arsenal for staying data connected:)! Suggest you take time on the ATT site, and work your way to where the Mobley is an option to purchase. (The new 'improved' ATT site, is hopefully still a 'process in work':)!) The last I heard from a few forums, they are again 'out of stock'. When they do 'come in stock' they seem to still go pretty fast. I was able to purchase both of mine from ATT directly, the second time I did the purchase online, and the Mobley came ready to plug in and use... (Plugging it in, I had to wait about 30 minutes before it was out to the Internet.). I started the thread on this forum about the last day of the Mobley offer. Well, that was what I had read on a few forums, so shred that here. We now know it's still available (The plan.) after the first announced cutoff date... IF, you can get a Mobley. If you got that route, make it easy on yourself, and purchase (Like off of Amazon -a you just missed a fell Escapee selling a few surplice units.) a power supply of your choice. (12V or 120V, with the OBD2 plug.). The ZTE Mobley is a bit older tech, but the combo of the plan and the device is a 'Winner!' (Not in a Charlie Sheen sort of way:)!). Best of luck to you, Smitty
  11. I'm having a jolly good time responding to my own thread:)! Today is our last day of boon docking for sometime ahead. SOC was lower today at 72% when I turned on the coffee (Started the evening TV/Direct DVR around 6:00PM at 96% SOC, after a full day of clouds (Surprise.) here in Tillamook.). I decided before starting the coffee pot, I'd bump the LBCO down a bit more on this cycle, so set it to 9.8. As the coffee was brewing, I heard the Samsung RF18 start up. Two seconds later the LBCO cut in with Low Battery message. It was too early to fire off the generator due to fellow Elk's boon docking relatively close to me in the field, so decided to wait until 8:00AM to start it up. About 7:45AM the MS2812 came back on by itself. MidNite Classic 150 controller reflected a little over 11A being generated in the misty drizzle. Went ahead and fired up the generator at 8:00AM, and recharging until we had off to our next destination today, and suspect the combo of the solar and 200A Alternator will top us off before we arrive. Now it may have just been luck that the refrigerator did not 'start up' while brewing the pot the last two days, or the higher SOC/Voltage on the first two days was enough to not kick in the LBCO with the 10V setting. Or, it could have been self preservation of the Magnum, as the combo of coffee draw (This pot draws 1450W, into a Thermos only, so once it's done brewing it's shut off. About 5-7 minutes.) and the start to the RF18 was too much amps on the inverter(?). For the balance of this trip, anytime we boon dock and are not able to start the generator before brewing due to camping noise etiquette - we'll just use the percolator. Will test the batteries when home in September, and see what that shows... as mentioned, could be a bad cell, or heck - maybe the 4 1/2 year old non abused bank of X's 4 Lifeline L16's are getting weak... Hope not, as they're a pretty penny:)! (Lived on the top side of ~ 75% + or = 3% of their lives while boon docking, otherwise in maintenance charge mode while on shore power. I'd say going back the last 4 1/2 years, we've boon docked less then 10 maybe max 15% of the time. (Mostly on our 2014 Alaska trip.) And only one time has something caused the batteries to draw down for the LBCO to cut in, before this series - so sure not abused by usage:)!). Mostly info sharing here, as until I test the battery and MS2812 - no reason to speculate too much:)! Interestingly, when the MS2812 kicked back on, the LBCO was back at the default value of 10V. So will need to check all of the other settings over the next few days, to be sure no other settings have changed. (Like charging logic to use Lifeline AGM default settings by Magnum, as an example.) Welcome any thoughts that my series of posts may have prompted, that I should consider. Best to all, Smitty
  12. Real easy to answer this today - leave it in the market after the election's... DJI 22K+... has been a nice ride:)! And of course, a correction is coming. When? Stay tuned, as Captain Obvious (Smitty) will report back in a few weeks 'after' it has moved towards a bottom trough:)! Funny how the market can be... Best to all, Smitty
  13. Just wanted to confirm I think I was the root cause of our LBCO kicking in, having it set too high. -I did equalize for the first time with this set of Lifeline's -Set LBCO to 10V -Boon docking at the Tillamook Elk's, and waking up to pre coffee pot usage SOC of 75-77%, depending upon if they were at 100% SOC at start of the night. Two out of Three it's been between 96% & 98% after the sun goes down. 95% and above I'm always happy with. -Post pot of coffee brewing, 74-75% SOC I still will when we're home in mid September, unhook the batteries and test each battery to see what values I measure at the posts, and how much deviation I see. Follow up post in case someone else does a 'Duh!' setting of their LBCO values:)! Best to all, Smitty
  14. For Class A's, with some crossing over to other RV's too:)! -Cover front windscreen froth outside, with a darker (Darker, not lighter.) cover. -Close curtains or pull shades on the front windshield and side windows. -Pull shades on all windows facing the sun. -Put cushions into roof vents. -Get curtain rods, and put insulation into the solar dome of say the bathroom/shower area. -Place a small fan on high, pointing from the rear of the coach to the front of the coach. (We place ours on the floor, just before the hallway door to the front of the coach.) -Keep AC's properly cleaned yearly, coils specifically, and inspect for any other problems. -Keep return filters clean. -Use window awnings, and or coach awnings, to follow the sun and provide protective shading. -Avoid oven and stove top usage in peak heat. (If we know we have a hot day, for example 109 is the forecast to where we'll be tomorrow in Plymouth, WA. We prepare meals in advance. Either to eat cool, or to pop into a microwave and reheat quickly. -For RV's with single pane windows, add the reflective insulation to the all windows. And, if keeping the coach for a few years, have sand on external covers made for windows, or at least the bigger ones. Same material used for the front windscreens, work well for this. -If possible, request sites that provide afternoon shading, or AM if you can't get PM:)! Those are most of the tips I've read here, and other boards, over the years... I'm sure their is more, but that's my short list for now:)! Stay cool, travel safe, best to all, Smitty
  15. I voted of the top one, as I see benefit to Escapees having a specific area to discuss this... As like many of you (Who we got the advice from in 2011-2012 as we were 'wrapping up retirement planning'.), we do have 'planned exit strategies' in place. As with many of the sub Escapee Forums, they have their time of being quite beneficial to the members. And at other times, maybe an occasional drop in visit. This is the norm of many forums, as the life cycle of the RV'er's changes as time moves on - with different phases an areas of investigation and interest. Best to all, Smitty