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About oletimer

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/25/1943

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  • Gender
  • Location
    On the road
  • Interests
    Hiking, Back roading(Jeep & dirt bike), Golfing, Geocaching, Boating, Jet skiing,
    TRAVEL, trying to keep diesel in the tanks.
    Keeping up a ranch in Kansas, and Wyoming

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  1. oletimer

    Death Valley Brewing

    We use to go there every year for a few days, and I used the springs every night. There is a side for the gents, and the gals. Susan NEVER used her side, and I many times was the only one in my side. At first, I was intimated, but as I found I had nothing "special" to reveal so no one even noticed me, I felt more comfortable being there. At the time we went, you paid a modest fee to camp, but the hot springs were free. When the Indians gave the springs to the government, there was an agreement to never charge for them. Years ago,the county took over, and you know how government take over works. We only went back one year after that. We dry camped there, and was always amazed to see these old Geezers gather every night to dance in the club house. It was NOT a resort, and once our son, and his wife drove by just to look at the camp ground, and never went back. We I asked him why, he just laughed. Now that I'm an old Geezer, I kinda' wish it was the way it used to be. As Tom T Hall sang, "I can't dance, and I never could", maybe after a dip in the hot springs, I could. BTW, the Tecopa Hot Springs is the 2nd purest hot springs in the world. Dick T
  2. oletimer

    Got turned away at my first RV park because of the HDT

    Oddly enough we are at the West Penal Co. RV park, West of Casa Grande, and bluethunder (Dan & Sarah) pulls in. Have never met them, and yet had the same problem at the same campground. Had a great visit, and have decided, once again, it is a small world. Wish everyone we met we were as nice as most of the Escapees.
  3. oletimer

    Got turned away at my first RV park because of the HDT

    The same thing happened to us at this very park last year. We had been in the Big Bend area for about a month, and just like you we needed some hook ups before going to the Ajo, then Wellton BLM. They not only turned us down because of the "semi" status, they seemed offended we would even try. I'm kinda' a nice guy, but I did explain to them they were NUTS, and just maybe they should post a sign out on I-8. BTW, this year, Big Bend National Park, with all their wisdom, chose one of the busiest times of the year to close Cottonwood campground for renovation, plus for the last few years it has been harder to get a primitive site. So 2018 is the first year since 1992 we have not spent most of February in, and around that area. Sad for us as we are lifetime members of the historical association. Life goes on. Dick T
  4. oletimer

    BluDot adjust brake pressure & maintenance

    Guess I don't know how to use this new system, because I can't find how to PM, (with more download allowance) or your email. As I've said before, I'm kinda' old, slow and dumb. Dick T
  5. oletimer

    BluDot adjust brake pressure & maintenance

    Don, I think it was the LQ-4. I have a PDF for a LQ-2, and a LQ4 that I will try to attach. I do know that after installing the valve, I never had anymore problems. I also can't remember who suggested installing one, but I suspect it was Jack, as he is very helpful, and familiar with the BluDot. Tried the drag & drop, didn't work (104 kg) are you kidding me? Maybe I'll try a PM, or email. Dick T
  6. oletimer

    BluDot adjust brake pressure & maintenance

    I don't want to cause a stink, but a few years ago I decided to do a complete rebuild on our 2003 Teton, and had the Mor/Ryd IS with Kodiak disc installed. Had all kinds of problems. I would burn the pads up in just a few "hundred" miles, also burn up the bearings, races, and seals. Installed the RV-1 @ 80#, no change. Kept bleeding, re-bleeding, like 5 times, no luck. Installed SS caliper pistons, pads etc. I would drive less than 10 miles, not touching the brakes, coasting to a stop, and the rotor was so hot it would blister my fingers if touched. I had installed the BluDot as per Jacks instructions, so I had a gauge on the output side of the master cylinder, and it never showed any pressure while traveling until I applied the brakes. The ONLY way I could use the system was to install a front axel hold off valve to keep all pressure from being applied until it reached 4 PSI. Then everything worked OK, but you would get a little surge when the pressure reached 5 PSI. Ordered a new Spacecraft with the BluDot, and HD drum brakes. Works for me!! Good luck, Dick T
  7. oletimer

    AIR LEAKS-I give up!

    That is exactly where mine was leaking, and it does exhaust into the exhaust pipe. I have replaced just about every thing, and still have some leaks, SOMETIMES!!! Other time the truck holds air fairly good. I also gave up. Good luck. Dick T
  8. oletimer

    Why HDT + 5er vs Class A + Toad?

    As I stated in my post, we did double tow for years, and got along fine, and I feel we were safe. We had brakes on the Jeep, and a rear camera on the 5th. Couldn't back though without unhooking the Jeep, not a big problem for us though. When we upgraded to a HDT, we planned to double tow, but I thought I would try loading the Jeep on an old flat bed we had temporarily. Liked it that way, but now we have to stay with the older (2006 and older) 2 door Wrangler, as the newer Jeeps are 8" longer. Still good for us except we are kinda' nuts, and I'm not sure how long I can keep this Jeep glued together. It leads a ruff life. We all have to make choices, and I don't think our choices would be the same even for us everyday, but just don't let "the tail wag the dog". Ain't no perfect fit. Good luck, and be happy, Dick T
  9. oletimer

    Why HDT + 5er vs Class A + Toad?

    My 2 cents worth. We have "camped" for 55+ years, and like many folks here we have went the whole route. Bedroll on the ground, rented tent, PU slide-in, pop-up, and 5ths(5 of them). Pulled 3 of the 5ths with PUs, and they pulled them fine, didn't stop them so well. Went to a new FL-70 mid-sized, and towed a Jeep for 14 years. Felt safe, towed fine, and if stopped for over length, I could unhook Jeep, and stay on the road. Hated that truck for 14 years, then SHE said you've hated it log enough!! Thought about going back to a PU, but again SHE said no way! The comfort, and visibility in the MDT is too good. Went to a HDT, kept both axels, and now haul the Jeep, motorcycle, bikes, and kayaks. No airplane(yet), but about every tool, and toy you can think of. Kinda' crazy. We are on the road for 7-10 months a year, and as we age (74-73) we know there might be a time for a MH "IF" Lord willing, and we are still able to live this good life. At one time, we did own an older MH for a trip down the Baja, and felt it was so much easier, but still kept the 5th as well. Our last 2 5ths were heavy a Teton @ about 20K, and now a Spacecraft about the same weight. We dry camp most of the time so with all the batteries etc. we will always be heavy. Don't think we could go to all the sights we go with a MH, and probably not with the 5th. Took 2 days one time in the desert for me to dig out. I was too proud to call for help. Sorry to ramble, but as I post this, I'm reliving some memories. Any how, like others have said, the choice is different for everyone. Man, I guess I could have said that in one sentence. Good luck with your choice, it will be the correct one. Or 2. Dick T
  10. oletimer

    3 Months in the truck????

    I did something like that, but for 3-4 days, not months!! I'll bet it would still beat a tent/sleeping bag on the ground. Dick T
  11. oletimer

    Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    Like I said, the one I purchased (looked just like this one)in 1993, had a drain valve, but was very slow to drain. That wasn't a big problem, because I always unhook the water supply, that is hoses, and filters anyway if things are going to freeze, and store them in the basement. I did the same with the softener. Would that be a problem for you? Just askin'. Dick T
  12. oletimer

    Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    On my old one it had a drain, because if you removed the cap, and turned it upside down, the "pearls" would leak out. The drain is slow, but works. To back flush, you need to unhook from the RV. Having said this, that is, IF it like the one had. Dick T
  13. oletimer

    Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    Back in the early-90s, we were lease holders at The Ranch in Lakewood, New Mexico. That water came from about 750'-800' and came out the spout in chunks. They now have RO water. I purchased a softener just like the one on this link, and used it everywhere I went until it sprung a leak from rubbing the tool box during travel. It was easy to hookup, and worked great for about 15 years. "The Ranch" solved their problem, and I got lazy, soooo. Might have to repair the old one, or purchase a new one. However, I can tell the difference between lime, and calcium buildup, and anode flakes(tailings). Had a softener at home for years(well water), and Mntom is correct, about the coffee, and shower. Also you use much less soap, and things are easier to clean. Hope the "Top Dog" doesn't see this comment, or I HAVE to get that softener SOON. I was just surprised the HW tank didn't come with a check valve, our first four 5th wheels must have had Attwood tanks, because we never had any back flow. If I remember correctly, I had to regenerate (back flush & recharge) after 1K gallons of use. BTW, those softeners can be mounted in the lower compartment, but would be hard to regenerate. Thanks for ALL the comments, I'll just learn to take a nap before I have to recharge the softener. Dick T
  14. oletimer

    Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    I did try #2, and it did help SOME. It was only a 24 oz. tank, and was in the way of under sink storage so I removed the tank. That is why I was wondering about a line strainer on the inlet side of the hot water tank. Your comment did however help confirm my thought of the HW tank acting as a accumulator tank though. Thanks! Now, I have 3 options I think. 1) A larger accumulator tank some where else in the system? 2) The inline strainer installed backwards on the inlet side of the HW tank. 3) Just remove the check valve I installed and the anode rod. BTW, I have at times made more important decisions than this, so I'll try to live through this one. THANKS for all thoughts folks. Dick T
  15. About a year or so ago, I posted some questions about anode rod tailings plugging up the screen/strainers in the system. This always happened after an extended stay with full hookups, and then the first time we used the pump and tank water. It confused some posters on this site, as they couldn't understand how the tailings got into the fresh water system. I tried to explain that this HW tank, (Suburban SW10DE), does not have a check valve, and therefor I thought it was acting like an accumulator tank. I did install a check valve on the inlet side of the tank, and that did solve the problem, but now the pop-off valve does weep some---long story. Now the question, has anyone installed an in-line filter in a water line backwards?? I would like to remove the check valve so the pop-off would not weep, and I wonder if an in-line filter would "catch" the tailings, and then return them to the tank when the pressure balances out from the pump pressure. It has been working fine with the check valve installed, but I'm not crazy about the lime buildup on the paint of the RV. Thanks in advance for any comments. Dick T Used to be "oletimer" on this site.