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oletimer

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About oletimer

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/25/1943

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    richardtarwater@yahoo.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Hiking, Back roading(Jeep & dirt bike), Golfing, Geocaching, Boating, Jet skiing,
    TRAVEL, trying to keep diesel in the tanks.
    Keeping up a ranch in Kansas, and Wyoming

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    39463
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  1. AIR LEAKS-I give up!

    That is exactly where mine was leaking, and it does exhaust into the exhaust pipe. I have replaced just about every thing, and still have some leaks, SOMETIMES!!! Other time the truck holds air fairly good. I also gave up. Good luck. Dick T
  2. Why HDT + 5er vs Class A + Toad?

    As I stated in my post, we did double tow for years, and got along fine, and I feel we were safe. We had brakes on the Jeep, and a rear camera on the 5th. Couldn't back though without unhooking the Jeep, not a big problem for us though. When we upgraded to a HDT, we planned to double tow, but I thought I would try loading the Jeep on an old flat bed we had temporarily. Liked it that way, but now we have to stay with the older (2006 and older) 2 door Wrangler, as the newer Jeeps are 8" longer. Still good for us except we are kinda' nuts, and I'm not sure how long I can keep this Jeep glued together. It leads a ruff life. We all have to make choices, and I don't think our choices would be the same even for us everyday, but just don't let "the tail wag the dog". Ain't no perfect fit. Good luck, and be happy, Dick T
  3. Why HDT + 5er vs Class A + Toad?

    My 2 cents worth. We have "camped" for 55+ years, and like many folks here we have went the whole route. Bedroll on the ground, rented tent, PU slide-in, pop-up, and 5ths(5 of them). Pulled 3 of the 5ths with PUs, and they pulled them fine, didn't stop them so well. Went to a new FL-70 mid-sized, and towed a Jeep for 14 years. Felt safe, towed fine, and if stopped for over length, I could unhook Jeep, and stay on the road. Hated that truck for 14 years, then SHE said you've hated it log enough!! Thought about going back to a PU, but again SHE said no way! The comfort, and visibility in the MDT is too good. Went to a HDT, kept both axels, and now haul the Jeep, motorcycle, bikes, and kayaks. No airplane(yet), but about every tool, and toy you can think of. Kinda' crazy. We are on the road for 7-10 months a year, and as we age (74-73) we know there might be a time for a MH "IF" Lord willing, and we are still able to live this good life. At one time, we did own an older MH for a trip down the Baja, and felt it was so much easier, but still kept the 5th as well. Our last 2 5ths were heavy a Teton @ about 20K, and now a Spacecraft about the same weight. We dry camp most of the time so with all the batteries etc. we will always be heavy. Don't think we could go to all the sights we go with a MH, and probably not with the 5th. Took 2 days one time in the desert for me to dig out. I was too proud to call for help. Sorry to ramble, but as I post this, I'm reliving some memories. Any how, like others have said, the choice is different for everyone. Man, I guess I could have said that in one sentence. Good luck with your choice, it will be the correct one. Or 2. Dick T
  4. 3 Months in the truck????

    I did something like that, but for 3-4 days, not months!! I'll bet it would still beat a tent/sleeping bag on the ground. Dick T
  5. Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    Like I said, the one I purchased (looked just like this one)in 1993, had a drain valve, but was very slow to drain. That wasn't a big problem, because I always unhook the water supply, that is hoses, and filters anyway if things are going to freeze, and store them in the basement. I did the same with the softener. Would that be a problem for you? Just askin'. Dick T
  6. Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    On my old one it had a drain, because if you removed the cap, and turned it upside down, the "pearls" would leak out. The drain is slow, but works. To back flush, you need to unhook from the RV. Having said this, that is, IF it like the one had. Dick T
  7. Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    Back in the early-90s, we were lease holders at The Ranch in Lakewood, New Mexico. That water came from about 750'-800' and came out the spout in chunks. They now have RO water. I purchased a softener just like the one on this link, and used it everywhere I went until it sprung a leak from rubbing the tool box during travel. It was easy to hookup, and worked great for about 15 years. "The Ranch" solved their problem, and I got lazy, soooo. Might have to repair the old one, or purchase a new one. However, I can tell the difference between lime, and calcium buildup, and anode flakes(tailings). Had a softener at home for years(well water), and Mntom is correct, about the coffee, and shower. Also you use much less soap, and things are easier to clean. Hope the "Top Dog" doesn't see this comment, or I HAVE to get that softener SOON. I was just surprised the HW tank didn't come with a check valve, our first four 5th wheels must have had Attwood tanks, because we never had any back flow. If I remember correctly, I had to regenerate (back flush & recharge) after 1K gallons of use. BTW, those softeners can be mounted in the lower compartment, but would be hard to regenerate. Thanks for ALL the comments, I'll just learn to take a nap before I have to recharge the softener. Dick T
  8. Anode rod "tailings"(revisit)

    I did try #2, and it did help SOME. It was only a 24 oz. tank, and was in the way of under sink storage so I removed the tank. That is why I was wondering about a line strainer on the inlet side of the hot water tank. Your comment did however help confirm my thought of the HW tank acting as a accumulator tank though. Thanks! Now, I have 3 options I think. 1) A larger accumulator tank some where else in the system? 2) The inline strainer installed backwards on the inlet side of the HW tank. 3) Just remove the check valve I installed and the anode rod. BTW, I have at times made more important decisions than this, so I'll try to live through this one. THANKS for all thoughts folks. Dick T
  9. About a year or so ago, I posted some questions about anode rod tailings plugging up the screen/strainers in the system. This always happened after an extended stay with full hookups, and then the first time we used the pump and tank water. It confused some posters on this site, as they couldn't understand how the tailings got into the fresh water system. I tried to explain that this HW tank, (Suburban SW10DE), does not have a check valve, and therefor I thought it was acting like an accumulator tank. I did install a check valve on the inlet side of the tank, and that did solve the problem, but now the pop-off valve does weep some---long story. Now the question, has anyone installed an in-line filter in a water line backwards?? I would like to remove the check valve so the pop-off would not weep, and I wonder if an in-line filter would "catch" the tailings, and then return them to the tank when the pressure balances out from the pump pressure. It has been working fine with the check valve installed, but I'm not crazy about the lime buildup on the paint of the RV. Thanks in advance for any comments. Dick T Used to be "oletimer" on this site.
  10. Who has the worst tale of HDT RV repairs?

    I will not tell the "long" story of the cost of our truck, because I had to redo some of the conversion, but.... 06/15/2010 2006 Volvo VNL630 Purchase. $33,750. Towing in 1st week. $ 1,063. Conversion. $33,659. Repair & Maintenance. $24,050. Total as of 9-30-17 $92,522. I guess I'm not too bright, but still beats the Freightliner FL-70. We run about 10K miles per year, in about 8 months. The figures do not include fuel.
  11. disc brake conversion

    Sorry, double post Dick T
  12. disc brake conversion

    Well, I'm sure this post will get me in hot water, BUT. I had a 2003 36' triple axel Teton that I spent a ton of money rebuilding, because I couldn't find anything I liked as well. New everything (almost). Mor/ryde IE with Kodiak disc, and BluDot, Bigfoot, etc. After this installation I kept burning up disc, rotors, bearings several times. The ONLY way I could travel, even a short distance was to install a front axel hold off to the air system. That would "hold off" any air pressure to the braking until more than 4# PSI, then I would get a jerk. Also, everything kept rusting up, so I replaced calipers, and pads with SS. The Kodiak calipers are MOPAR passenger car pads, but I purchased all replacement parts from Kodiak. Never could figure out what went wrong! I installed the Blu/Dot as per Jack's instructions with all gauges and never showed any pressure applied when brakes weren't applied. Gave the Teton to SpaceCraft (almost), ordered a new RV with triple axels/HD drum brakes just like the ones I removed from the Teton. When SpaceCraft sold the Teton, they removed the Blu/Dot, and the new owner as far as I know never had any problems. (?) My new RV has Blu/Dot with drums, and works great. I know, I know, brake fade. Drums have been around for a long time, and still used on 18 wheelers. I visited to one farm trailer manufacture, and was told he quit installing disc brakes on his trailers, because of dirt, and rust problems also. I know I'm the odd ball, but had to post anyway. Not sure Dexter had any problems, but you have to install 2 Blu/Dots for triple axels. Good luck, hope I'm not confusing the issue. Dick T
  13. Volvo battery replacement.

    Thanks for the comments guys. The KW dealer in Topeka has some EverReady 31s, so I guess I will get a couple of those, and have a "mixed" bank until one of them shoots craps. Then get 3 new matched. I will go to HF, and get that digital tester. I need to walk in make the purchase then walk out without looking around, because my tool box is FULL. Mostly with S&K, Pronto, MAC, Craftsman, but have lately found HF ain't bad when seldom used. Dick T
  14. Truck battery replacement.

    Back in 2011, I had a speed sensor shutdown while on the road. Made it to Volvo dealer in Salt Lake City, and after a day and 1/2 was told I had a bad battery, just need to replace one!! I said I didn't think that was the problem, plus I NEVER replace one battery in a bank of three, so replace all three. I did find later, the problem was a bad wire connection behind the seat. Anyway, last week, after the truck sat for 30-45 days, no start, low voltage. I had one bad battery. The only one I could find quick was at Batteries Plus, and they only had one. I seldom use the word NEVER, but I had to get to Spacecraft the next day, so I replaced one bad battery. Got back home, and the truck sat for 2 days, no start, low voltage, one bad battery. I'm not crazy about mixing brands of batteries, and Batteries Plus now has 2 more Duracell 31-C 925 batteries, my question, are these any good? I checked my fault codes, and most codes are for the low voltage problem, and I don't have any bad grounds, and I guess 6 years is about all you get out of batteries anymore with all the electronics. I do find it strange that 2 of my batteries died with a week of each other, but I guess time will tell. Both me and the "Top Dog" are getting itchy feet, and just about ready to head South, so don't want to have trouble on the road. I guess I rambled again, but any thoughts? Mostly, has anyone used Duracell batteries in their truck? As always, Thanks, Dick T
  15. Volvo battery replacement.

    Back in 2011, I had a speed sensor shutdown while on the road. Made it to Volvo dealer in Salt Lake City, and after a day and 1/2 was told I had a bad battery, just need to replace one!! I said I didn't think that was the problem, plus I NEVER replace one battery in a bank of three, so replace all three. I did find later, the problem was a bad wire connection behind the seat. Anyway, last week, after the truck sat for 30-45 days, no start, low voltage. I had one bad battery. The only one I could find quick was at Batteries Plus, and they only had one. Well, I seldom use the word never, but I had to get to Spacecraft the next day, so I replaced one bad battery. Got back home, and the truck sat for 2 days, no start, low voltage, one bad battery. I'm not crazy about mixing brands of batteries, and Batteries Plus now has 2 more Duracell 31-C 925 batteries, my question, are these any good? I checked my fault codes, and most codes are for the low voltage problem, and I don't have any bad grounds, and I guess 6 years is about all you get out of batteries anymore with all the electronics. I do find it strange that 2 of my batteries died with a week of each other, but I guess time will tell. Both me and the "Top Dog" are getting itchy feet, and just about ready to head South, so don't want to have trouble on the road. I guess I rambled again, but any thoughts? Mostly, has anyone used Duracell batteries in their truck? As always, Thanks, Dick T
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