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Correct. Those are privileges that come with residency. However, some states, Texas and South Dakota for example, don't require you to have a permanent structure in which you reside, in that state. Therefore, declaring domicile in Ohio doesn't work for full timers.

Rod, another thing to consider is that some states are not very friendly to the idea of having a RV as a residence. For instance, in Ohio, in order to claim residency, you must live in a permanent structure. A house trailer skirts this by being raised up and set on piers or a foundation, then anchored to it. Just one more thing to think about....

Good detective work. I got confused when the terms, "certain areas" and "state law" were interchanged, so I answered referring to the "state law" side of the equation.

Kirk, ya got fooled by the internet. Since we operate in Indiana and Ohio, and DO NOT need inspections in either state, I checked your link. It doesn't mention Indiana either way, and Ohio only has inspections in the Cleveland area, so NOT a state inspection. Ohio used to do inspections, but the inspecting stations were so corrupt they eliminated it. Yer slipping bud.😁

Many factors here. If you buy property, be certain what you'd like to do is allowed. County and state codes, and zoning, are factors. And then there's the old saying that land is always a good investment. Ain't so. As an example, my dad bought a chunk of land in 1987 for a reasonable price. He maintained it, (bush hogged about 60 acres), built a barn, and paid property taxes on it until he passed in 2006, when he left it in a trust for us kids. We sold it in 2020 and "made" a little over $200k profit. However, if Dad had put that same amount in the S&P, without considering property taxes and maintenance costs, we would have realized over $3m profit. So, perhaps you should leave your investment capital intact and live off the earnings.

I have a t-shirt that says: "I can fix stupid, but it's gonna hurt." I may come of as hard hearted, but Darwin was on the job here. I'd bet dollars to do-nuts that somewhere in the Airstream owners manual it warns against hauling passengers in the trailer.

From your opening message, it would seem you're not comfortable doing this yourself. If that's correct, bite the bullet and have it done, or ask around to see if someone can help you through it. It's not difficult, but if done incorrectly, it can get very inconvenient when a bearing fails.

Gotta story about my mother-in-law and a battery operated pill dispenser. Best told around the campfire, adult beverage in hand.

It's all in my Rolodex. 🤣

And that's why so many olde phartes (like me) prefer cash. Do I get 5% cash back? No. Do I have to jump through a bunch of hoops to avoid being hacked? No again.

Sorry to hear of your issues. Sometimes the cards don't fall as planned. I'd be searching out someone else to assist in getting your credit card money back. That's real money, worth going after it. When we had a leaky tank on our farm truck (2000 Mack), we bit the bullet and replaced all the straps while we had it apart. Not much more work and great peace of mind.

How timely. I just got off the phone with another forum member who's also shopping for insurance on his truck and new fiver. You say you're with Progressive, but which agent? I'm with Progressive through Lazy Days Insurance in Florida, and have no such restrictions. When I called Miller Insurance, they had the restrictions you mention. And just so you know, there's only a few agents in the country who can write these policies. My local agent, who handles all our other policies, could not do it, even though he's a Progressive agent.

Happy Birthday Mr. C.O.B. I hope we meet some day.

Yes. There's a tank supplied with the BluDot to apply the brakes should the supply line become disconnected, same as on a commercial trailer. Recently, I was moving our trailer after having unhitched several days earlier. Since I was only backing the rig into the shop, I didn't bother hooking up the lines/electric cord. The trailer brakes were dragging, so I dove under and opened the tank drain. It still had perhaps 15 psi, enough to lightly apply the brakes. Since installed the BluDot, 7-8 years ago, it had always leaked down in 12-15 hours. Why it now holds air is a mystery.

I will add, at Lazy Days, there are a couple folks who really know their stuff, and our trucks. And there's one or two who will just say you can't do it. If you get hold of the latter, ask for the supervisor.

Excellent plan. As handy as you are with CAD, you can figure out where to put the lights and make the harnesses so that you already have the needed length for the completed bed. I'm a big fan of the 3/4" button led makers with brake/turn function for mid-ship placement. And don't forget that reflective material.

First, are you sure they're push-to-connect? I've not worked on a Rockwell, but I've serviced several Eaton/Fuller shifters. They didn't use p-t-c. Secondly, not all p-t-c are serviceable. The factory fittings on our KW are one time only. They only come apart by destruction.

Wow. That thing is so far out of compliance with the lighting regulations it's criminal. For not much money, it could be correct, and much safer for him and other drivers. There's about 50' of un-lit side view there, from the light between the trailer axles to the light above the steer tire.. Regulation is 30' or less. And to top it off, it's all black, with not a lick of reflective material. Shame on you, Henry, for letting that thing hit the road. If anything happens on the road, you deserve a lawsuit.

It appears that there are two white wires of larger gauge, one to ground and the other to brakes. That doesn't seem logical.

Who knew that a Jackalopee could double as a storage area for excess wire?

Part 3: If you're going to store gasoline, buy high octane and put a stabilizer in it. I can tell you that my 180 hp, 12:1 compression, carbureted motorcycle likes 85 octane in the mountains.

New myth: Today we moved the trailer into the shop, only latching the hitch, not bothering with electric cord or air lines (BluDot). It was parked 4 days ago, and when moving it, the brakes were dragging. After I unhooked, I checked the air tank under the trailer, and found it still had a little pressure. When we first installed the BluDot, it would leak off in less than a day. Mystery solved. So, the question is, should those of us with BluDot dump the air in the trailer tank when parking?

We bought our 4 y/o trailer in 2015. Three axle toyhauler, GVW 21k, 8k hubs/bearings. Unknown history, pull about 5k miles/yr. I check bearings at least yearly for play, adjust as necessary. Until late 2022, I'd needed to adjust 2 (two) bearings. At that time, I took the trailer to a trusted trailer repair facility, and had a suspension overhaul, along with repacking the bearings. The mechanic said one wheel had a little dirt in the bearings, all others were still perfect. Since that time, we've pulled another 10-12k miles. Trailer got back into the shop today for a going over and bearing check. So, my opinion is that if you check for play occasionally, and are well below the load capacity of your hubs, repacking more is a waste of time. I'll also add, I will not run Bearing Buddys. They only put grease in the outer bearing, until you eventually fill the cavity inside, before any grease gets to the inner bearings. When you pull off a hub, is there generally grease in the cavity? No, because you need that air space for expansion as the hub warms and cools. Fill that void and when the grease cools, it sucks dirt past the seal. Dumb, dumb, dumb.

Carb heater? I've only once experienced carburetor ice, on a 1949 International KB-6.

Works like always for me.