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About RandyA

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    Major Contributor

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    Mechanicsville, VA - Souix Falls, SD or whever we park.
  • Interests
    Fast cars, electronics, big trucks, RV's, boating and my family.

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  1. What SeHc did not write is that removing or modifying the EGR system is, according to the EPA, illegal and subjects one to a $3,700 fine for each change and $37,000 for each vehicle. The individual States are pretty much responsible for enforcement. South Dakota could care less while in California a LEO can write a ticket on the spot if he suspects the emissions system on a vehicle has been tampered with. Switching channels a minute, these systems have been proven to decrease fuel mileage by 3% and increase the need for 3% more fuel. Not a small amount considering the number of trucks on the road. The EGR recycles part of the exhaust into the cylinders to dilute the air/fuel mixture and thus reduce NOx. The fallacy of the system was they were only designed to be warrantied for 50,000 miles and the trucking industry found that the early EGR systems began to fail between 200,000 and 250,000 miles. The demand for EGR coolers and the twin valves was high enough that Volvo could not initially supply enough repair parts. During the mean time, operating the truck actually increased NOx to higher levels than originally designed. Repair cost to put new EGR parts on a 2003 Volvo D12 truck engine were averaging $6,500 for each vehicle. Considering the age of trucks like mine (2004) with mileage like mine (850,000 miles) even if the EGR valves and sensors are working the amount of soot built up in the turbo, cooler, valves, and intake were significantly greater than a similar 2002 D12 engine that did not have the early EGR system. Ironically, the amount of NOx and soot emissions out the exhaust increased while fuel mileage and performance decreased. I have, for maintenance purposes, taken much of my EGR system off and was shocked at the carbon restrictions that had built up and how small the remaining opening was. It took hours of cleaning and chipping to remove the build-up. I did put the system back on because I knew it was illegal to remove the system even if it did not operate as envisioned when the truck was built. As the owner of a truck that has this first generation EGR and rarely exceeds 5,000 miles per year I am considering making some changes to the engine to eliminate EGR which, at this point, would result in a cleaner engine unless I invest thousands of dollars to replace system components.. BTW - according to the law replacing the muffler or exhaust with a non-OEM product is also illegal. The expectation is I should use the same muffler that Volvo originally installed on the truck. While not a tree huger, I am extremely conscious of my Carbon foot print as well as other atmosphere damaging chemicals. My carbon footprint alone is significantly less that our brick and sticks home during the 6+ months we live in our fiver. The "controlled" burns the US Government conducts in our area are hundreds of times more damaging to our atmosphere than my truck. That doesn't make my consideration legal - but it sure does make me loose respect for some of the requirements in the "Clean Air Act." If you want to really get me going start a discussion of the 10% ethanol added to our gasoline. As an Engineer (electrical/communications) the mantra consistently drummed into my head has not been forgotten: "You can never create or destroy energy, you can only convert it from one form to another." Any time you convert energy like chemical to heat to mechanical in a truck you can expect a loss to an undesired form of energy or byproduct. The goal should be making the energy change more efficient. Many of the "rules" we are compelled to operate under simply do not address increasing efficiency as a means to reduce pollution.
  2. It is pollution - not polution. Thank you for pointing out to me what the world needs today.
  3. Henry, I hope you are tucked in safely with that nasty hurricane heading your way. I would hate to see "flying goats" (or pigs for that matter). Prayers that you and yours will avoid damage or worse.
  4. RandyA

    $100,000 part

    I've received the statement from my insurance company for my back surgery including doctor, OR, hospital, meds, and the metal device that was implanted in my spine. The total bill was $260,000 - $100,000 of that was for the white thing you see in the copy of the x-ray that is screwed into my vertebrae. It sort of puts you in a different frame of mind about the cost for repair parts for my Volvo 😁. BTW - the insurance company did not pay that amount. It was "discounted" to $4,211.00. My cost was zero.
  5. I did not know that. I Iooked at their web page and could find noting but the reset tools. I wonder why it is not listed? Did they get in trouble with the EPA? I do know someone that bought one a couple of years back when they had a sale but has yet to install it. Lucky guy - he is sitting on a gold mine. I often wondered how the EGR Delete software was set up. Many years ago I wanted to eliminate the O2 sensor on a car when I was doing autocross. I bread-boarded up a little device using a 556 timer that would give the ECM random levels of low voltage to allow a richer fuel mixture without making the ECM go into limp mode. From what I have read the same type of variable voltage readings are generated by the EGR on the Volvo. If there is NO voltage variation to the ECM you get the fault PID and perhaps the derate. Now, I want to know more and will shift my attention to exploring what the EGR sensor is doing. I have a recording digital pocket o'scope with a SD card that I can use to capture the EGR data from the sensor over an hour or more of on the road mileage. I don't know, but maybe I can put together a device that will fool the Volvo ECM into thinking the EGR is operating. But, keep in mind I am sorta half-fast when it comes to such a project. BTW - the exhaust system change project is now on hold. I bought a can of ceramic exhaust putty at Autozone and patched up the current rust holes in the top of the muffler. A few shots of silver high temp exhaust paint and it looks like new. It is still in the way of what I want to use the space for behind the cab but further changes are not imminent. Thanks to everyone for their input.
  6. Before you start putting wiremold on the ceiling try to run a fish tape from the 14" opening inside the ceiling cavity across to the wall. I have found that there are rarely any restrictions above the ceiling left to right. If this is clear you will need to cut a hole in the ceiling at the wall and use your wiremold down the wall. BTW - how are you going to be sure that you have the needed bracing in the roof/ceiling for an AC unit. When you say "older Jayco" I think of wood framing rather than aluminum.
  7. RandyA

    Dot fittings

    NPT (National Pipe Thread). I was in a similar spot several years back. I did not find any NPT that had a DOT rating - only FIP. I ended up using regular brass. It is significantly thick and has no problem handling the pressure.
  8. No regen on this truck. It is a 2004 D12D with EGR. I do agree that pointing the exhaust down could create a dust devil - might be better to just go straight back if I don't turn it. My main problem with going out the side is my Volvo has the full fairing that covers the fuel tanks. I would end up cutting a hole in the fairing and need to drop the exhaust system lower to the pavement. Also more bends and band clamps. I'll have to work on this. Actually, the comments are now making me wonder if a weed burner is what I really want to do. It could put more soot on the lower front of the fiver. The other issue is the doughnut that Charlie reported finding inside his 2006 Volvo exhaust. I am "assuming" I have the same restriction in mine. If anyone has experience with this thing, good or bad, I need to know. I do remember reading something awhile back about the metal gasket used between the turbo and exhaust manifold was restricted so as to boost pressure in the exhaust for the EGR. The suggestion was to enlarge the opening in the gasket if one had the turbo off and screw the EGR. Doing so increased turbo performance. If the doughnut is there for a similar reason I would think it needs to go. I could be opening Pandora's Box with this project - you know how one thing leads to another. The EGR system on this engine is working OK but failure of the valves or cooler can become very expensive. The EGR delete kit from OTR remains in the back of my mind. Ghee Wiz, all of this thinking started with a little rust hole appearing in the top of the stack muffler. Maybe a glob of exhaust putty is all I need. I think I feel a headache coming on. Oh, BTW, I'm close to week 8 from my back surgery. I feel good and am beginning to resume my normal activities. The only problem is my muscles are weak from 3 months of inactivity and I have picked up a few pounds as well.
  9. My OEM muffler is starting to rust out. Rather than put it back the way it is I am considering building up a "weed burner" so that I can take advantage of the space gained rear of the cab. Looking at materials available it appears to me that a 6' section of 5" stainless steel flex pipe should work well from the turbo outlet to an inside mounting position for a new OEM style muffler pretty much equally distant from the fuel tank and drive shaft on the passenger side. I would use a couple of feet of the existing chrome stack as a tailpipe that points straight down at the ground (not out the side). All clamps will be stainless steel band clamps. I will, of course, need to make my own pipe hangers and supports. Charlie has mentioned to me on several occasions a restriction similar to a washer with a 2" opening welded in behind the turbo. I do not know if my truck has the same. It would seem that taking this out (if mine does indeed have it) would create better exhaust flow but at the expense of what? EGR, exhaust brake, turbo spin-up???? I've never paid much attention to how others have plumbed their weed burners. Any additional thoughts or ideas will be appreciated.
  10. RandyA

    Bedroom tv puzzling

    Chuck, don't know if this will help or not. Winegard antennas have a pre-amp board in the antenna. The pre-amp needs 12 volts DC to work. This is fed UP the coax from the antenna/cable switch usually found near the main TV. The powered pre-amp supplies an amplified AC TV signal to the switch box/power supply. A DC blocking capacitor keeps DC out of the cables going to the TV receivers. Inside the switch box power supply is a TV signal splitter. One part of the splitter goes to the main TV, the other to perhaps the bedroom TV. When the LED on the power supply is illuminated 12 volts is going up to the pre-amp and you have an amplified OTA TV signal. When it is off a signal fed by the outside cable connection will pass un-amplified through the signal splitter built into the power supply board. The signal splitter is a passive device and needs no external power. If you bypass the power supply/signal splitter with a conventional passive 2-way splitter chances are your OTA antenna will not work (no power) but cable will work. OK, where is the possible problem? I have found the coax cables connected to the wrong ports on the power supply/splitter from the factory. I have found improperly installed F fittings on the coax (spike too short, center/shield shorted). Coax cables cut. A two way splitter installed for FM radio after the power supply/switch improperly connected and cables never even attached. As for satellite. Pre-wiring without the dish is usually a cable from each dish tuner location run to an install point on the roof. An additional control cable "may" be run from the main TV to the roof location. The roof install location is usually marked on the roof or under some sort of cover plate. If you use one of the popular tailgater style dish antennas installing additional coax cable is often needed. Maybe this will help you locate the problem. I have done trouble shooting on several new units for our local dealership. New does not mean it was done right. Well intentioned shop techs that think they understand MATV often mess things up even worse.
  11. SD will issue same Amateur Radio (Ham) FCC call sign plates for multiple vehicles registered to the same owner(s).
  12. Boy, isn't that the truth! Already doing that with some friends. I'm improving and able to begin doing some light stuff. Still not driving though. Long way from working on the HDT. It all hurts to get fixed but it is a medical miracle that we can have knees, shoulders, hips and more replaced. Actually it is easier to do those than fix the #5 cylinder manifold exhaust tic on the Volvo - with Medicare it sure is a lot cheaper too!
  13. RandyA

    Clear coat issue

    Carl, there are so many different paints on the market now it can be difficult for a non-professional to buy or apply the correct product. Unless you have a buddy on the "inside" the retail cost of the paint, hardener and possibly thinner are pretty darn hard on your pocketbook too. The fix method I am going to give you is for back yard shade tree repairs. It is not the best but it is also not totally inferior. Go to your favorite auto supply store - AutoZone, Advance Auto, etc. Purchase the following material (note links to Amazon products): Rattle can of Dupli-color clear lacquer (must be acrylic lacquer not acrylic enamel), you can also use the two part clear Parrformance referenced. It is more durable than the acrylic lacquer. Several sheets of #600 3M wet or dry sandpaper, a solid rubber flat sanding block, a pint of surface cleaner for the removal of wax and oil, clean lint free rags and at least one tac rag and some HAND rubbing compound and a bottle of Meguires fine cut cleaner. If you need tape buy the one designed for automotive use, not the cheap stuff or blue tape for brush painting. Start by using the cleaner to remove all wax and oil. saturate your rag, apply then immediately dry. Turn your rags to a clean spot. Do this several times. Put a piece of #600 paper in the rubber sanding block and lightly wet sand the area about 3" beyond your peeled spot. Slightly feather the edge of the clear coat around the area to be repaired. Do not try to completely remove the edge or you could damage the exposed basecoat.. Lightly finger sand inside the spot where the clear coat peeled. Again, lightly so you do not go through the basecoat. Wipe down with your cleaner again and go over the area with your tac rag. From the rattle can spray a light double coat on the peeled spot trying not to go too far beyond the damaged edge. Let the clear dry completely and repeat. Depending on how thick your original clear coat was you may need to do this 6 to 8 times. Your final coat must feather out at least 3". If you get a run don't panic - just let it dry normally. Put everything away and wait at least 24 hours, preferably 48 hours. Using the hard rubber block sander, plenty of water and the #600 sandpaper sand in even strokes over and around the damaged area. The idea is to get the lacquer in the damaged area to the same height of the original clear coat. Use your hand and fingers while wet to feel your progress. When satisfied, clean up and get out your rubbing compound. Careful, this stuff can cut pretty fast. Follow product directions for hand rubbing. Put some on your cloth and start polishing the damaged area and surrounding clear coat. It will look milky - this is normal. Once satisfied that you have achieved rubbing out the majority of sand scratches switch to your fine cut cleaner. The milky finish will become shiny and you should have a nice repair. Again, this is OLD paint technology. But it still works and it is a lot less expensive than a pro body shop. I would not advise doing it on anything bigger than the spots you showed in your pics. I would also advise you not to fool with this if the area where the clear coat came off just keeps peeling back. Failure of clear coat is often the sign of a "dirty" paint job. Not dirt like under your feet but contamination from silicone and wax. Once a spray gun is used with silicone (for fish eye elimination) it can not be returned to use for paints without silicone. In open shops silicone floats in the air. It will contaminate your surface. Another reason is using an Acrylic enamel as a base coat. Painters do it all the time because it is less expensive. But acrylic base coats need to be dry and sanded before clear application. Urethane base coats can generally be clear coated in just a few hours dry time and bond well. There are so many variables to base coat/clear coat repaint jobs that even a hospital clean base primed with a urethane sealer/bonder, a color urethane base coat and a high solids QUALITY urethane top coat can turn milky after a few years or start the separate as yours is. Seemingly simple things like the wrong air pressure at the spray gun, dirty air from the supply line, film thickness and airborne contaminates can lead to later failure. Still, simple old school backward patch jobs can give satisfactory results if done correctly and save hundreds of dollars in material and labor. This is not to say the repair will become invisible but it should look good to anyone 5 feet away or when you are traveling down the road at 55 mph. There are a lot of 5 - 55 paint jobs out there than can last for years. Good luck!
  14. Just to muddy the water....... NORMALLY where does a rear plate go? Center, right or left side of the rear apron of a HDT. My son (VA LEO) told me that on our truck with the trailer connected the tag should go on the left side so it could be seen as a LEO pulled around the rear of the truck in the left lane or glanced back in the rear view mirror. I replied: "OK, what if I am on a 4 lane road in the outside lane?" (Note: Old photo, old tags, old bed design shown)
  15. SD is less expensive than more heavily populated areas for insurance. 3% sales tax up front unless you can prove it has been paid to another state. Some counties have wheel tax and Highway Patrol fee added. Empty weight determines the cost of your tags - which can be several hundred dollars each for a fiver and HDT. Good news is no annual personal property tax nor state inspection. Amazingly, you do not have to have a SD driver's license to do this.
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