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  1. What are some alternatives to the Gas Buddy app?
  2. Like one of these?
  3. Instead of adding this to the Adding Another RV/TOAD Wiring Harness thread I started, I thought this product deserved a separate thread -- Product Review: Tekonsha ZCI System.
  4. Full circle . . . When I was looking up Purogene, I found that it was used in airline water holding tanks (sound familiar?). How would you feel if the airlines stopped using it because they mostly use municipal water in their plane's holding tanks?
  5. Um, oldjohnt and others, the Cummins/Spartan service techs couldn't find the problem after 3 hours. I don't think they were incompetent or slackers. So I don't see me doing any "simple" test to locate the problem. Also, oldjohnt, I wouldn't be troubleshooting a trailer, I'd be tracing a fairly convoluted wiring harness in my RV . . . in fact, I'd have to remove my RV's bedroom engine cover to access part of the harness. Simple? I don't think so. I'm going to use a Tekonsha Zero Contact Interface instead of a Hopkins kit because the Tekonsha uses induction so no wires have to be cut. The Tekonsha sounds too good to be true. We'll see. Today I discovered my Newmar uses a 3-wire system (separate wires for brake, signal, and taillights) and identified each.
  6. Oy veh! The infamous deteriorating "seals" yet again. Exactly what RV seals do you think bleach would break down?
  7. There's a WikiPedia link in my post above.
  8. A lot of misinformation and/or omitted info in the above. First, there's a difference between water system sanitizing and water sanitizing. In the former, you're adding a lot of bleach (or Purogene) to your RV water tank, running the treated water through all the faucets, letting the treated water sit for a while, and then flushing the treated water with fresh water. Water system sanitizing is a once or twice a year thing. RV water system sanitizing for a 100-gallon tank would require 32 oz of Purogene (see bottom of this web page) -- this requires a full 32 oz bottle of Purogene for $35. Or you can use about 2 cups of household bleach. Water sanitizing is adding a small amount of bleach (or Purogene) to your drinking water. You must be very careful because this water is going right down your throat. Add too much and . . . Second, a "plug" for Purogene -- it can remove biofilm. This very persistent slime essentially becomes an apartment complex for harmful microorganisms. It's the stuff that can adhere to the water spigot nozzle that you try to clean by spritzing bleach on it (which doesn't work by the way). Anyway, biofilm typically is removed by elbow grease -- scrubbing. The fact that Purogene can deter biofilm through just contact is a big, big plus. Finally, "bleach is poison and very corrosive". If you mean it's corrosive to an RV's plumbing system, then No, it's not corrosive. In a nutshell, an RV's plumbing system is bleach tolerant ABS (holding tanks), polyethylene (water tank), and Santoprene the "rubber" in your gate valves. "Bleach is poisonous" You bet, especially drinking it straight out of the bottle. But don't do that! Follow the directions for use. By the way, check Purogene's MSDS -- if Purogene comes into contact with acids or chlorine, then chlorine dioxide gas is released which can cause pulmonary edema that may occur 2 to 3 days after you inhale the gas! Executive Summary . . . Purogene looks great as a bleach substitute for water system sanitizing because Purogene deters biofilms. UV sterilization looks to be the better solution vs Purogene for water sanitizing. Dosing with Purogene every time you fill your water tank seems highly inefficient as opposed to UV.
  9. x2. Here's one source: RV Upgrades.
  10. The 7-way gave up the ghost after we were hundreds of miles away from the dealer who did our engine work (and who may have cause the problem to begin with). Anyway, we gave Newmar a call, they said to call Spartan, and Spartan determined that when our 7-way was installed in 2000/2001, it was connected directly to the RV's lighting system -- no special fuse for the 7-way. So we took it to a Cummins/Spartan dealer close to us and after 3 hours they couldn't find out what was wrong. I told them to stop work and they graciously only charged me $244. So . . . I'm going to just bypass the current 7-way system, and install another wiring harness. The Tekonsha Zero Contact Interface looks like the solution because I won't be "cutting" into any of the RV's wiring.
  11. Shortly after I had some RV engine work done, my RV's 7-way toad connector stopped working. A Cummins/Spartan repair shop wasn't able to find the problem. So . . . I'm thinking of using one of the Hopkins kits to add another toad outlet, bypassing the 7-way completely. Anyone done something like this?
  12. In my case I think my UV sterilizer stopped the algae cold. However, I'm still going to bleach "shock" my RV water system. This has been a learning experience, mostly from aquarium and swimming pool owners, who deal with all kinds of algae: Green algae -- the most common. The kind I think both Kurt & I had. Mustard algae (yellow/green color) Black algae -- apparently the worst kind for pools. Great, eh?
  13. This may sound like a silly question . . . but when it finally came out was it green or gray?