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SCClockDr

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About SCClockDr

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  • Birthday 06/10/1946

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    Male
  • Location
    SC Upstate
  • Interests
    Camping, Flea Markets, SIM racing.

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  1. Hi Jennifer Ministries As others have noted knowing which breaker is tripping would improve our ability to narrow down the issue & offer more accurate suggestions. Without more info, I see 4 possible breakers involved depending on equipment installed. Distribution panel Main breaker. Distribution panel AC breaker. Generator breaker. EMS contactor (breaker)? In my case the EMS contactor was opening on low voltage, the generators were still supplying power. A Micro-Air Easy Start device solved the issue and I can start & run the AC on a single EU2200i Honda with the fridge on electric & converter in trickle mode. It will also interrupt the AC power should someone start the microwave, toaster, or coffee maker, etc. It will restore the AC once conditions improve. The Micro-Air is $$$ but can be swapped into future AC units if a replacement becomes warranted.
  2. As others have stated above it appears your compressor is getting hard to start. Some have suggested to swap out the start capacitor if present. Might I suggest an alternate approach. Hutch Mountain Run AC with 1 Generator - Micro-Air Easy Start 364 This is a Magic box that once installed will learn your compressor electrical characteristics over 5 shorepower starts and then will run on 1 Honda EU2200i in ECO mode. If there should develop an additional load, toaster, hair drier, microwave, etc. this gizmo will interrupt the AC till conditions improve. Generator and EMS if present will not trip & dump the trailer. I just installed 2 Honda EU2200i Generators to replace a 12YO EU3000i (failed inverter) and found I needed both generators paralleled and @ full throttle to start the AC compressor or the EMS would open the contactors on low voltage. I installed the Micro-Air unit and I can now start & run the AC on a single EU2200i with the fridge on AC & PD converter in trickle mode with a few amps to spare. This is not a cheap solution but if your compressor is indeed on its last leg it will buy you time to save & plan a replacement & just move the Micro-Air to the new AC unit. I'm just a very satisfied customer with no other connection to the Micro-Air or Hutch Mountain organization.
  3. An issue we had on both our Titanium's was excessive wire run between the switch & motor. 70 + feet counting both ways. I built a relay system close to the motor & slide performance improved dramatically. About 8 feet both ways. You may want to audit the wire connections for solid strong mechanical contact.
  4. I'm beginning to suspect Fire TV is limiting bandwidth on a % basis as I've used one in a few different situations and the speed available varied as the service bandwidth varied. With an Android TV box & an Nvidia Shield Pro the bandwidth nearly matched the available max. There may be alternate explanations for what you & I experienced I'm just conveying what I've observed.
  5. Wet cell longevity is not possible to predict unless they are showing signs of impending failure. (Specific Gravity low) Maintenance lapses kill most wet cell jars. Excessive discharge is also a significant factor. If your jars are performing as expected they will likely provide several more years of service with proper maintenance. Using a battery monitor as suggested above will improve your odds. If after an equalizer charge you see one or more cells with a low specific gravity then their days are numbered, start saving for replacements.
  6. Is this sag a development over time or always present? As the slide extends is the sag consistent or does it develop unevenly? I'd slide the fabric on the sidewall track away from the sag & run the slide in & out and readjust as needed to square it up then re-anchor it in its track. If that fails then measure the distance from the roller to the wall on both ends. They should be equal with the slide in as well as out. If there is a discrepancy between ends and it is consistent with the slide in & out then shim the bracket on the sag end to get the roller parallel to the sidewall. If the degree of parallelism changes with the slide in & out the slide deployment mechanics need to be looked at first.
  7. I'd look for a mixing valve at the hot outlet. If present they are known for failing due to scaling. Many remove it and manually regulate the discharge temp with the bypass valve. One last thing to check is the outside shower. If both valves are open with the shower head valve closed hot & cold will mix. Water heaters with mixing valves maintain higher tank temperatures. This coupled with mixing in cold creates an apparent larger capacity tank. There is a scalding risk if the mixing valve is eliminated and no cold water is mixed via the bypass.
  8. Verizon customer here, recently switched out my S7 edge for a S9+. Took advantage of Verizon's Black Friday offer. I'm pleased with the performance and battery duration.
  9. We converted to the Go Unlimited plan on 1 phone & I IPad air and my phone to Beyond Unlimited. I can revert my phone to Go Unlimited when we return home & reactivate when we hit the road. We get 23 GB @ 4G on each device + 16 GB hotspot @ 4G. This added $12 to our cost and will subtract $5 (relative to our previous plan) when we are home (no hotspot) yes there can be throttling on the cell devices if in a high use situation & the hotspot is capped @ 16 GB. We can operate quite nicely within those constraints.
  10. I'd approach it this way. Set your ball so it will couple. Get the unit to a level area. Unhitch, make your adjustments to achieve a level tow. This will work every time if you have the needed hitch height range.
  11. Not sure this would work. If the TV provides a browser try loading a page with it. The campground WiFi should redirect to its signin page. I've been in campgrounds where they have effectively prevented router and streaming devices from obtaining a connection. The most recent was using WiFiRanger gear throughout the park.
  12. If you indeed do pass. Where are they?
  13. If the fixture is of the mouse trap variety, simply pull it down and use both hands to remove the lens. Be cautious with finger placement & take positive control of the springs before they snap free of the cutout, they can bite.
  14. You published the phone # in numeric plain text. The net-bots (internet robots) detected it while scanning content which is readable without logging in. One must log in to post. You are aware of the result.
  15. Glad you got it sorted. One thing to note when contemplating bleeding brakes on an electric over hydraulic trailer is the bleeder itself. There are the standard ones that just seat in the caliper and are otherwise hollow. Then there are the check valve type designed to be "more convenient". I've found the latter type to resist the vacuum type of bleeder. When using a vacuum bleeder the hose seal is absolutely critical. I use chassis grease to prevent air intrusion. Once a flow is established I lower the drain container to the ground and gravity will pull out all the air and old fluid if the standard, hollow bleeder is used. I've also found some pumps cavitate introducing micro bubbles. For a completely/mostly dry system a full pump reservoir will usually self drain with an open brake line. As a last resort, I use a fairly long large hose sized to fit over the fill & a bit of lung pressure. (Keep the ends discrete & discard when done).
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