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  • Birthday 08/10/1946

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  1. I have figured out what happened. I had a senior moment of some sort. 1 - I pull into the park, plug in my "surge guard" to the pedestal and my plug into my surge guard 2 - no power to the rv, the window on the surge guard is all cloudy and I can't read a thing. 3 - I figure it is the pedestal so I check it with my meter , 123 on each side (Senior moment) - never occurred to me to check my plug 4 - the park tech checks things out and replaces the old beat up looking plug 5 - still no power coming through the surge guard, can't read what it says in the window 6 - finally check my plug - three loose wires (Senior moment) - I only see two of the loose wires. The "White" neutral is short and I don't notice it. 7 - I tighten up the two wires I see 8 - since I know the pedestal is good I put my plug directly into the pedestal. 9 - I hear a noise, short and sweet like a breaker tripping. 10 - I unplug and turn on the generator for the rest of the night at this point my basement air is blowing warm air because the compressor won't come on and the lights on my inverter/charger panel are off 11 - I run my roof backup unit and go to bed 12 - in the morning all the batteries are dead 13 - I jump start the coach and go home. By this time my wife is mad as hell and I feel like the dum-ass of the year.
  2. I have a 1999 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom with an RVP 6636-871 air conditioner located next to the engine in the rear. I also have a Freedom 20 Heart Interface inverter/charger supported by all new batteries, good connections, and clean terminals. Both were working fine thru the last 12 months. However, all of a sudden, after plugging into a 50 amp pedistal that had 123 on both legs, the inverter/charger is not charging and the air conditioner is blowing warm air and the compresser is not comming on. The only problem I found was my 50amp plug had a couple of disconnected wires which was causing me to have only one live leg in the plug. After fixing the plug and plugging it back in these things stopped working.
  3. I'm needing a new set of tires. I have a 1999 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom on a Freightliner Chassis with a set of Goodyear G670 - 275/80R22.5 / load range H that are 9 years old and like new. I'm thinking of buying a set of Michelin this time. My question is: 1: do I need 16ply. 2: do they all need to be balanced; 3: anyone ever used "Counteract beads" for balancing? 4: does anyone have a suggestion for this size
  4. As I was driving today all of the instruments on the dashboard with the exception of the engine water temp stopped working. I was able to operate the vehicle with no issue. However I can't see speed, fuel, oil pressure, etc. Can you point me in the right direction as to what has happened in this case?
  5. I'm interested in knowing why it is better to put the tires on a board. Also should we inflate the tires beyond the max psi during storage?
  6. the Blue Sky insurance agent told me that their comprehensive coverage would pay to replace the whole windshield with my deductible or fix the chip with no deductible.
  7. I want to express my gratitude for the quality of help you all provided to me here. It is so amazing that three different RV repair techs tried to sell me hundreds of dollars worth of parts and labor to solve this problem, none of which would have solved the problem. With your help I found a 20.00 circuit breaker that was connected between the batteries the power coming from the batteries and the power going into the coach that was burned up. I replaced it myself. My wife thinks I'm too COOL.
  8. We are smelling mildew in the bathroom. How do you deal with this type of problem.
  9. Sorry Stanley I forgot to include the link to the pictures http://mothercarol.com/pictures001.aspx
  10. I tried to isolate the battery by taking off the ground. There are two grounds to the batteries. when I remove them both there is no power to the coach at all. I have placed a picture of the battery at the following link, which is my website. http://mothercarol.com/pictures001.aspx Can you tell me which one I should remove?
  11. I don't know how to upload a picture to this forum so I have placed a couple of pictures on my website at the following link. One is of my batteries and the other is a device connected to the batteries. I would like to know what the second one is and how it fits into all of this. When I test the voltage at all points along the batteries I get 13 volts, my meter does not show the decimal. With the black test lead on the ground of the battery and the red on the point where the positive cable is connected to the little device I get 13 volts. With the red lead on the point where the line goes from the device to the coach I get 12 volts.
  12. So if it is 12.6 after all that what does this mean to me?
  13. I shut off the outside 50 amp power source. I turned off all the 12v loads I could find. and my multi meter read 12.7 volts. When I turned on a light it dropped to 11.9 Is this telling me that the batteries had a good charge on them?
  14. You guys are the best! I got a multi meter and It was reading 12.5 volts everywhere. I turned on the furnace and it dropped to 11.5 to 11.9, which I thought would be ok since it draws so much power. Things ran that way just fine for a couple of hours. Then I realized that most of my problems were happening after dark when the Solar panel wasn't charging the batteries. So tonight when I got home from a party I plugged in the multi-meter and it showed 11 volts. I turned on the furnace and it went down to 8.8 volts and all hell broke loose, lights on and off and all of that sort of thing. I shut everything down for about 10 minutes and the meter was back up to 12 volts. My thinking is that the converter is the source of my trouble. Now I have the "Heat Interface" system with the Freedom Combi...Inverter/charger. Should I replace the whole system for 1200 to 1500 bucks or just have a new converter added to what I have?
  15. This is a Suburban Gas Furnace. It is the original equipment for my 1999 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom. Let me tell the background that might shed some light on this situation. In August my electrical problem first showed its hand when the power started going off and on again intermittently. And at that time I discovered some bad batteries so I replaced all 5 of my coach batteries with 12 volt deep cycle for a hundred bucks each. This did reduce the problem from daily power problems to occasional power problems. In September I posted this forum to see if I could get some ideas to solve my occasional power problems. Based on the advise I received I started checking connections and found a couple of places where I tightened screws and the like. This reduced my problem from occasional to rare. Things have been moving along nicely with very rare instances of the power going off and coming back on. Then the temperature dropped and I turned on the heat. After an hour the lights went dim for a moment. The power never shut off like before just seemed to stress the system, enough that the fridge shut off a few times. I'm thinking the fridge shuts down as a safety feature. We have been using the heat now for a month and every time I use it after an hour or so this power problems starts up again. Once they start the problem keeps happening over and over again every twenty minutes or so. Therefore, I shut it off for a few hours and the cycle begins again.
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