URGENT QUESTION! Age of RV and Electronics via SHORE POWER, Help please. Options

[TylerOSU]

*note this may look familar to those frequenters of RV.net, posted on there as well. Need an answer ASAP!*


Hi fine folks, I have a very pressing matter that is TIME SENSITIVE.

My wife and are going to buy a travel trailer/5th wheel in the next week and place it in a nearby RV Park, for STATIONARY, Shore Power living for months-years.

My main concerns are this:

We are down between two models:

A 1988 Fleetwood Cimmaron TT 30footer $2400

OR a 1996 KIT COMPANION ROAD RANGER 28ET TT. $3000

Both have similar layouts, but the 96 is newer AND looks better as well as coming from a dealer, unlike the Fleetwood. Price difference isn't too bad, might be able to bring down the 96 a little.

***But here is my MAIN issue***

Will the 1988 TT be able to power a PS3/Flat SCreen TV(40inch, might go down to 30-25)/Sat Reciever(Dish network) from ONE outlet(with $50 PC type surge protector plugged in)from 110v Shore power from the RV Park?

Same goes for the 96, though I would think it would be able to handle it better with 8 years newer tech and less wear and tear.

I get confused when I hear about converters/inverters, and also wether the 88 has a simpler fuse box or actuall circuit breakers...anyone know? I gather that converters/inverters are mainly for NON-SHORE Power, using the batteries to power everything while on the go.

Please help, we are up against the wall time wise.

THANKS!

[Mark & Dale ...]

Since we are only talking about AC electricity here, the age of the trailers doesn't matter.

Fuses and circuity breakers work the same way as far as using electricity is concerned.

The only issue would be, does both traailes have at least a 30 amp power cord.

[jetboater]

I don't see a problem with a tv and sat box in 1 plug.If you are worried,plug in a heater to the plug.That will draw more power than the tv ever will.

[geysergazers]

As far as choosing a unit, the most important factor in an RV of that age is the condition of the Roof and any history of past leaks.

As for Power, you will probably find that both those TTs are set up with 30Amp 120V Shore Power (Plug, Cord, Circuit Breaker Box, 120V wiring and outlets). Unless there is something wrong you will have no problem running your TV. According to the Kill-a-Watt (plug-in Wattmeter) our 40" Samsung LCDHDTV only draws 195Watts or about 1.63A @ 120V.

By far the biggest Electrical Draw most people might have would be an Electric Heater, a Toaster or a Hair Dryer. Any of those Appliances with a Heating Element will draw 12A-15A, or close to 1/2 your total possible power. Some RV WTRHTRs have an Electric Element as well as the Gas Fire and that would also be 1500W (12A).

There will be a Converter (probably built-in to the Circuit breaker box) which "converts" 120VAC to 12VDC to run all the 12V stuff like Lights and Furnace Blower. The automotive fuses you find in the Box are for the 12V circuits.

Lew

[Stanley P. Mille...]

I get confused when I hear about converters/inverters, and also wether the 88 has a simpler fuse box or actuall circuit breakers...anyone know? I gather that converters/inverters are mainly for NON-SHORE Power, using the batteries to power everything while on the go.

Don't worry about inverters unless you have one, they make 110 volt power from your batteries for times when you don't have shore power.

Do pay attention to your converter, that converts 110 volts to 12 volts to keep your batteries charged. You need the converter/battery for your lights, fridge, air-conditioner controls, self-lighting water heater, furnace and other small electronic trailer stuff.

The suggestions others have made on testing the 110 volt power are good ones, your TV isn't going to use very much 110 volt power.

[Jack Nichols]

All good advise. My contribution is that I would opt for the newer unit, alll things being equal. Since you are not experienced (I was in the same boat last year) you might get the units checked out by a technician so you do not step into a problem.

Prices are under such pressure go for the nicest you can afford.

Leaks have been mentioned, and can destroy a nice trailer quickly, so you need to look for that specifically. Look for water spots on walls, in cabinets, behind drawers, loosening wall paper. A a technician can evaluate such things.

That is what I would do.

[TylerOSU]

All good advise. My contribution is that I would opt for the newer unit, alll things being equal. Since you are not experienced (I was in the same boat last year) you might get the units checked out by a technician so you do not step into a problem.

Prices are under such pressure go for the nicest you can afford.

Leaks have been mentioned, and can destroy a nice trailer quickly, so you need to look for that specifically. Look for water spots on walls, in cabinets, behind drawers, loosening wall paper. A a technician can evaluate such things.

That is what I would do.

We bought the 96, looks pretty solid. Original owner paid 9k for it in 07 lol. He got fleeced quite a bit.

[Tom Lang]

Congratulations.

I'd like to add one more power-related comment. Being a '96 model, it probably has an inexpensive converter/charger. Assuming you have a 12 volt battery attached, be aware that these old style converter/chargers tend to destroy batteries by overcharging them when connected to shore power for more than a few days. You should keep the battery attached as it acts as an electrical noise filter, but look into adjusting the charge voltage so it won't boil the battery dry.