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#1 Peter & Margaret

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 05:39 PM

Our Class A has been in storage for a few months and we have just cleaned the fresh water tank before starting to use it. I filled the fresh water tank and drained it twice to get rid of the bleach water. When draining the tank for the second time the water pump suddenly stopped working - the water pump light was on, there was water in the fresh water tank but nothing came out of the taps. I reconnected the park water supply and again tried the pump and it started working.

 

Any ideas on why the pump would stop working and then suddenly start again? Could it be that the pump overheated? The pump ran continuously for about an hour and a half while I drained the fresh water tank.

 

Peter 



#2 Gyropilot

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 05:53 PM

Any ideas on why the pump would stop working and then suddenly start again? Could it be that the pump overheated? The pump ran continuously for about an hour and a half while I drained the fresh water tank.

 

Peter,

 

Most definitely your pump could've shut down if the built-in thermal breaker was tripped due to a prolonged run time.  It did exactly what it was supposed to do... protect the motor from overheating.

 

Best regards,

 

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#3 Stanley P. Miller

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 06:46 PM

You had three copies of this posted, probably another forum glitch so I posted pointers to this topic in each of the dupes.


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#4 Kirk

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:30 PM

Any ideas on why the pump would stop working and then suddenly start again? Could it be that the pump overheated? The pump ran continuously for about an hour and a half while I drained the fresh water tank.

I would agree with John L. I suspect that was the case. In the future, only drain via the pump enough to flush the system. There should be a drain valve from the tank that can be opened to empty it without use of the pump. 


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#5 Peter & Margaret

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 09:19 PM

Thanks for the advice John and Kirk.

 

My apologies for the multiple posts, I struggled to get the post listed. Thanks for the help in linking them together Stanley.

 

Peter



#6 Stanley P. Miller

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 12:27 AM

Nothing you as a user can do about multiple posts, the forum just does that from time to time and there is no way you can delete them. Some folks go back and edit the extra copies to say "Duplicate" or the like, that isn't really necessary but it can get you better answers.


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#7 Freddy & Delcie

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 08:01 AM

Our pump quit the other day and bought a new relplacement, when I started to change it out it worked. I had a elect heater in the water bay and it was about 6" from the pump, I thought that a water line had frozen and thawed but after reading this I am thinking mabey the heater blowing on it caused it to shut down. What do ya'll think?
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#8 Gyropilot

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 11:11 AM

Our pump quit the other day and bought a new relplacement, when I started to change it out it worked. I had a elect heater in the water bay and it was about 6" from the pump, I thought that a water line had frozen and thawed but after reading this I am thinking mabey the heater blowing on it caused it to shut down. What do ya'll think?

 

Under the conditions you described, I think it's very possible.

 

The thermal breaker in our Remco AquaJet AES pump trips when the motor case reaches 185 degrees F.  I'm guessing it wouldn't take too long to reach that with an electric heater blowing directly on it at a short distance.

 

On another somewhat related issue, which I'm guessing most folks don't ever think about, is how ambient temperature and barometric pressure changes (altitude changes) can affect the performance of an accumulator tank (pressure tank), if an RV has one installed.  SHURflo recommends checking and resetting the air pressure of an accumulator once a month.

 

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#9 Stanley P. Miller

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Posted 15 January 2014 - 01:36 PM

We looked at that when installing our accumulators and made sure they were accessible to check. Once filled we never looked at them again a small one never had an issue in 6 years or so went with the RV as a trade, on the new RV we had a small one at the pump and a large one in the basement and they never had an issue in about 4 years when we sold that RV.

 

As long as the diaphragm or air chamber don't leak there is nothing to go wrong, if they do leak return them under warranty. Once you get used to having one any problem will be obvious as the pump operation changes as you use water.


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#10 Budd

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 01:09 PM

I had a Shurflo 5.7 extreme. I had issues with it sometime not coming on or sounding like a 4 cylinder car
running on 2 cyls.

I opened it and found that the carriers for the carbon brushes in the motor were plastic and had melted enough to bind the brushes so they made intermittent contact with the commutator. To my knowledge the pump had never tripped the internal thermal breaker so this is a materials and design problem.

I just replaced it with an Aquajet 5.3 AVR. We'll see how that holds up.

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#11 Freddy & Delcie

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 06:37 AM

It's me again, My water pump comes on every few min. for just a second, I have searched all the water lines for leaks and found no seeps, the faucets are not dripping ether. I thought that the water valve in the commode might be seeping but there was no excess water in the bowl after a few hours. I have a new pump and will change it out today. I am thinking maybe the pump is losing pressure somehow. Does this make sense?


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#12 Alie&Jim's Carrilite

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 07:56 AM

THe check valve in the pump can leak.It allows just enough pressure to leak back to make it cycle.


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#13 Stanley P. Miller

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 11:36 AM

You can take the pump apart and clean it, often the leaking valve is fine, it just has a chunk of sand or something stuck in it. If it still leaks you can replace just the pump head, keeping the motor or the entire unit. Some folks choose to upgrade to a nicer pump than the factory installed.


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#14 Michael Sroufe

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 12:25 PM

After suffering 10 degree temps for a week some years ago our Shurflo pump rubbery diaphragm became brittle and didn't seal well.

We replaced the top end of of the pump as Stanley mentioned and it has worked just fine for about ten years. We were in Quartzsite that year and when I told the Shurflo rep in the big tent about it he reached under the counter, handed me the part and said "this should do it, no charge." That's a good warranty!


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