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Dometic NDR1292 problems


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#1 oletimer

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 12:32 PM

We have been having problems with this unit off and on for about a year or two. I have had two techs check it out at different times, no luck. When new (2003), it would ice up within about 10-14 days on the fins. In 2010 we had a shutdown and had a new themistor installed. It solved the problem, and more than that, as the fridge fins never iced up again. About 8 months later, it failed again, and we replaced the main board after checking all the connections, and much testing, etc. I had to do all this myself (with help from this site) as we were in the desert with no phone service. Finally replaced the main board with a Dinosaur board. Never worked right so they sent me another one. Worked fine for about 6 months. With phone service I called them and performed many tests, had another tech ($70) new thermistor, etc. Still very eradict on both gas, and electric. It seems sometimes when when cooling, it will not shut off until I turn it off then back on, freezing. As low as 22* in fridge. Tested ohms OK, volts OK, etc. Chad @ Dinosaur told me to dedicate battries apart from the solar and inverter for fridge only, no luck. He them said these units are only meant to be used a couple weeks or so at a time anyway. I have not called them back after I told him that was ludicrous. I haven't told the whole story because I don't want to ramble plus lack of time & space on forum, but I was wondering if this unit is just like me, TOO OLD?

Thanks, Dick T
2006 Volvo VNL 630(VED12 400HP)
10 speed autoshift,3.58 gear 236" twin screw, w/ET, Jackalopee, Blue Dot
2003 Teton Laramie 36'
2005 Jeep Rubicon
2007 Suzuki DR 650

#2 LindaH

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 01:05 PM

If it were me, I'd throw in the towel and get a domestic refrigerator rather than an RV one. I believe the subject of replacing an RV refrigerator with a domestic one has been talked about more than once here...a search should turn up these discussions.

Other than that, I don't have any solution for the problems with your refrigerator.

LindaH
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#3 Barbaraok

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 01:20 PM

Sometimes getting a residential refrigerator isn't feasible because of door swings when slides are in.
Dick, we have the same model, knock on wood, haven't had any troubles. I do know that I have to adjust the placement of the thermistor on the fins as the seasons change.
Barb

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#4 Rif

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 01:57 PM

We had the 1492 instead of the 1292. I think they are the same except for the size. Ours was new in our 2002 rig, and died in 2011 The cooling unit failed. We replaced it with a household unit. If yours in now 9 or 10 years old, you are living on borrowed time. Many cooling units fail around that time. Some last longer, and some not that long, but that is the typical lifespan.
2000 Volvo 770, 500HP/1650FP Cummins N14 and 10 Speed Autoshift 3.58 Rear 202" WB, 2002 Teton Aspen Royal 43 Foot, Burgman 650 Scooter

#5 Zulu

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 02:28 PM

I was wondering if this unit is just like me, TOO OLD?

My 2001 1292 is still going strong -- after I replaced the cooling unit.

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#6 NH2

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Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:10 PM

Dick, you did a great job of describing MY refrigerator woes. I just swapped my control board for a Dinosaur three days ago. My temperature swings have ranged from 28°F to 42°F. I'm still trying to "fine tune" the thermistor in an attempt to get it to settle on 38°F. I'm sure you're aware but just in case you're not— moving the thermistor on the fin, even a quarter of an inch (up or down), will change the box temp a couplafew degrees.
On occasion, we accidentally bumped the thermistor moving it up or down without knowing it only to find the temps in the fridge off a bit. I finally customized our thermistor with one of these. After all, the thermistor is nothing more than a resistor. The "adjustable" one I put in is basically a potentiometer.

Rif, you mentioned the cooling unit. I'm not sure the cooling unit is the issue with Dick's (or my) 'frige. As described, Dick's cooling unit will get the temps into the 20's so I believe it's working as well. It's just that the control of the heating units (both LP and elec.) is out of whack. That leads me to believe it is either the board or the thermistor—the thermistor acting as a messenger telling the board what to do regarding the burner or heating element.

I, too, am thinking about packing it in and purchasing a household refrigerator. However, we are boondockers; a household 'frige gulps electricity. We currently have 400 watts of solar; in two weeks that number will change to 700watts but still not enough to support the needs of a household 'frige without running the genny for hours & hours. Not really for us. Our four T-125's wouldn't cut it either.
Mark

Edited by NH2, 03 March 2013 - 04:15 AM.

Mark & Sue---SKP#86611
'06 International 4400LoPro DT570 310hp 950ft-lbs.-Allison--3.70 gears
'05 36' Teton Liberty
'12 BMW F650 twin
Pedalin'-Cannondale T1000(his)-'dale R1000(hers)-Santana Ti700 Tandem(ours) w/B.O.B. trailer for the long hauls
View some of our adventures at: Mark & Sue's pics

#7 Rif

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:09 AM

Rif, you mentioned the cooling unit. I'm not sure the cooling unit is the issue with Dick's (or my) 'frige. As described, Dick's cooling unit will get the temps into the 20's so I believe it's working as well. It's just that the control of the heating units (both LP and elec.) is out of whack. That leads me to believe it is either the board or the thermistor—the thermistor acting as a messenger telling the board what to do regarding the burner or heating element.

I, too, am thinking about packing it in and purchasing a household refrigerator. However, we are boondockers; a household 'frige gulps electricity. We currently have 400 watts of solar; in two weeks that number will change to 700watts but still not enough to support the needs of a household 'frige without running the genny for hours & hours. Not really for us. Our four T-125's wouldn't cut it either.
Mark


Mark, I agree that the cooling unit is not the current problem, but he asked what the normal lifespan of these units is. That was the question I was answering because it is typically the cooling unit that goes out at that point.

We have 800 watts of solar and 6 GC batteries. We boondock extensively (have not been hooked to shore power yet this year) and only have to run our generator about half an hour each evening. Some evenings we don't run it at all.
2000 Volvo 770, 500HP/1650FP Cummins N14 and 10 Speed Autoshift 3.58 Rear 202" WB, 2002 Teton Aspen Royal 43 Foot, Burgman 650 Scooter

#8 NH2

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 04:21 AM

Rif, you're giving me hope. What make/model refrigerator did you install? Not sure where I'd tuck an add'l two GC batteries. I currently use wet-cells—but would be willing to bite the bullet and purchase 6 AGM's and sacrifice space in the basement. We're not please with the size or operation of our current Dometic refrigerator.
Thanks for your input,
Mark
Mark & Sue---SKP#86611
'06 International 4400LoPro DT570 310hp 950ft-lbs.-Allison--3.70 gears
'05 36' Teton Liberty
'12 BMW F650 twin
Pedalin'-Cannondale T1000(his)-'dale R1000(hers)-Santana Ti700 Tandem(ours) w/B.O.B. trailer for the long hauls
View some of our adventures at: Mark & Sue's pics

#9 Kirk

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 08:07 AM

I haven't told the whole story because I don't want to ramble plus lack of time & space on forum, but I was wondering if this unit is just like me, TOO OLD?

In my experience, most current RV refrigerators have a life span when used full-time of about 10 - 15 years. In part-time use it could be much longer. There have been those on these forums who have replaced cooling units and managed far longer than that by just repairing when things breakdown, but I have not chosen to replace one.

I finally customized our thermistor with one of these. After all, the thermistor is nothing more than a resistor. The "adjustable" one I put in is basically a potentiometer.

Mark, that it a neat looking improvement. I was not aware of them and I thank you for posting the information. It could be helpful to install one of those on even a properly working RV refrigerator just to improve temperature control. :)

Good travelin !...............Kirk

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#10 oletimer

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 08:29 AM

Hey Mark, and Rif,

Don't you guys ever sleep? One reply @ midnight, the other @ 4 AM. I thought I was the only one that kept those hours, I mean, how much can a person sleep anyway? Rif, I also have 800 watts of solar and 10 AGM batteries. I upgraded in December from 4 to 8 panels with a new Tri-Star controller and of course all new HD wiring. We also boondock most of the winter and was getting along fine with 4 panels, and our 11 year old generator still only has 240 hours. I knew I had way more batteries than panels, but when I first bought this unit (new in 2003) I was always going to add more panels. I choose now to do it because I planned to go to a household fridge, but we have enjoyed the extra "juice" so much, and with all the new electronics, I have to wonder if all the new refrigerators will operate on a MSW inverter? I guess if I could, I would just purchase a new NDR1292, and not have to remodel, but that can't happen, so I guess I will go with a household unit. Like Mark asked, what unit did you install? The Sansungs in Jacks guide, have a bottom freezer and the "Top Dog" says no to that. His Frigidaire model I can't find, but I can find a Frigidaire #FFHT1826PS. I don't know if that one or maybe all the new units would work on MSW inverters or not. I will have to remove the bottom drawer and I'm sure reinforce the floor to gain the extra height, and I think you would to Mark, because we both have a 36', Teton I see.
Thanks all you guys for the response, and maybe we can all learn. (SKP) :rolleyes:

Dick T
2006 Volvo VNL 630(VED12 400HP)
10 speed autoshift,3.58 gear 236" twin screw, w/ET, Jackalopee, Blue Dot
2003 Teton Laramie 36'
2005 Jeep Rubicon
2007 Suzuki DR 650

#11 LindaH

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 08:38 AM

I, too, am thinking about packing it in and purchasing a household refrigerator. However, we are boondockers; a household 'frige gulps electricity. We currently have 400 watts of solar; in two weeks that number will change to 700watts but still not enough to support the needs of a household 'frige without running the genny for hours & hours. Not really for us. Our four T-125's wouldn't cut it either.

Not true from everyone I know that has installed a household refrigerator. Most of the people I know who have done this are boondockers and they don't seem to have any problems with their household refrigerator.

LindaH
2014 Winnebago Aspect 27K

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#12 Rif

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 09:18 AM

Mark & Dick, I installed a Whirlpool 21.7 cu ft side by side unit. It is Model ED2VHEXV and was purchased from Lowe's. I chose it more for the ease of adapting the available space than any other reason. It is not the most efficient refrigerator on the market, but it's not bad. The EPA required energy sticker says the annual cost to operate is $57. We paid about $850 delivered.

All I needed to do to accommodate it was remove the drawer below the original refrigerator, add about half an inch of additional plywood on the floor (which also strengthened the floor) and add 2 inch wide oak strips on each side to match the rest of the cabinetry. Of course I removed the gas line and an sealed and insulated the wall vents (naturally installed in a slideout) with foil backed foam insulation. This particular model needs no clearance on the sides or rear since the cooling unit is all below the unit, and air is drawn in and exhausted from the front.

I did replace our Xantrex MSW inverter with a Magnum SW inverter at the same time. The Magnum is just so much better that there is no comparison. I just didn't want to take any chances with clean power, and we had been concerned with the way some of the other appliances worked with MSW. The new refrigerator and the inverter together still cost less than half of what a new RV type refrigerator would have cost.
2000 Volvo 770, 500HP/1650FP Cummins N14 and 10 Speed Autoshift 3.58 Rear 202" WB, 2002 Teton Aspen Royal 43 Foot, Burgman 650 Scooter

#13 Bill Joyce

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 10:41 AM

Watch your door swing room when replacing with a residential fridge, especially if it is in a hallway or pushed up against a wall. I know someone who ordered a similar model to Rif's and they could not open the doors fully so they had to return it and pay a restocking fee. If you have a 12cu ft Dometic or Norcold the Samsung 197 French Door seems to work in about all cases, but if you can open the doors the Whirlpools are larger and cheaper.

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#14 NH2

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 12:37 PM

Many thanks for the valuable info. I'm gonna scratch my bald head a bit & come up with a plan.
Mark
Mark & Sue---SKP#86611
'06 International 4400LoPro DT570 310hp 950ft-lbs.-Allison--3.70 gears
'05 36' Teton Liberty
'12 BMW F650 twin
Pedalin'-Cannondale T1000(his)-'dale R1000(hers)-Santana Ti700 Tandem(ours) w/B.O.B. trailer for the long hauls
View some of our adventures at: Mark & Sue's pics

#15 oletimer

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 03:07 PM

I have looked at this monitor just about all day long. I think I have found what I need to convert without a complete remodel. Lowes has a Fregidaire LFHT1513NS top freezer 14.8 cu ft. $600.
175#, 355 kWh/year, 60"H X 28"W X 30.4"D. It doesn't have electronic controls, so I am hoping I don't have to change invertors. I'm like you Rif, some of the new appliances are a little touchy. It would take a little work, but I think I can make it fit in the same opening. Not as big as some, but we have got along fine with 12 cu ft. Plus it doesn't use a whole lot of juice. They have one in Tucson & Yuma, but it will be some days before I get to look at them. I sure would like to get by until I get back to summer home (NE Kansas)in early May especiality if I have to change to a SW invertor. I'm not in a hurry to get there with the weather they have been having. Thanks for all the input, and I'll keep checking here for updates, and will let you know what I find out.



Dick T
2006 Volvo VNL 630(VED12 400HP)
10 speed autoshift,3.58 gear 236" twin screw, w/ET, Jackalopee, Blue Dot
2003 Teton Laramie 36'
2005 Jeep Rubicon
2007 Suzuki DR 650

#16 Bill Joyce

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 05:13 PM

oletimer: You can add a smaller pure sinewave inverter if you have space close to the batteries to mount it and are comfortable running a 120 volt wire to the back of the fridge. It might be cheaper than changing out a big inverter/charger that you are happy with. A good source is http://www.donrowe.c...s/puresine.html .

2004 40' Newmar Dutch Star DP towing 2012 AWD Chevy Equinox, Fulltimer since July 2003
Travels - http://www.sacnoth.com - Bill, Diane and Evita (the cat)
Despite the high cost of living, it still remains very popular. (stolen from Nick Russell)


#17 oletimer

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Posted 03 March 2013 - 05:23 PM

oletimer: You can add a smaller pure sinewave inverter if you have space close to the batteries to mount it and are comfortable running a 120 volt wire to the back of the fridge. It might be cheaper than changing out a big inverter/charger that you are happy with. A good source is http://www.donrowe.c...s/puresine.html .



Bill, I never thought about that, DAH. :blink: Thanks, That's what I might do if I have to, because my invertor is almost new.



Dick T
2006 Volvo VNL 630(VED12 400HP)
10 speed autoshift,3.58 gear 236" twin screw, w/ET, Jackalopee, Blue Dot
2003 Teton Laramie 36'
2005 Jeep Rubicon
2007 Suzuki DR 650