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I put creek water in my holding tank..


rebar

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Rebar, that's switching gears. ;)

 

I outdoor shower quite a bit from creek and lake water. I don't treat or filter my water other than with a twig n leaf filter for my pump head. My shower setup is just a standard jabsco 3.5gpm pump, a 1 liter accumulator tank, a Triton water heater (although mine looks very different and was only $65), 12v battery, and 10 pound propane tank.

 

I just recently switched the showerhead to an ecocamel. It's burns 1.5 gpms over the oxygenics I 'was' using that burned 2.5gpm. It's all 'free' water, but I really prefer the ecocamel for the 'coverage' vs the higher directed pressure form the oxygenics shower head.

 

I've been using this setup (in it's various forms) for the past 15 years or so without treating the water itself and have had no ill effect. You can take that for whats it's worth, but some days.. with a creek nearby.. endless hot water showers trumps Navy showers indoors hands down! LOL :lol::P

 

Sure.. Until you turn the water off! I'll go hide thank you.

 

I have a outside shower on the toyhauler as well and know exactly what happens in the wind.

 

Seriously.. Thanks for all the input.

1997 Ram ctd 4x4 5 speed 3.54

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I was a medical Lab Technologist for three years of my AF career. And a medic for five years including running the autoclaves in Central Sterile Supply back in the 70s when we re-used needles and syringes. I was also responsible for base water testing. Not the collection of samples but doing the cultures and identification if growth occurs. Many ask what happened to the other 20 years? Well, I found a better way to draw blood without aids risk! The M-16! So spent the last twenty years of my career making loud noises and blowing things up. I played with guns daily and was forced to shoot thousands of rounds a year from light, medium and heavy machine guns, automatic grenade launchers, manual one shot grenade launchers, handguns, rifles, submachine guns and .50 cal sniper rifles among others. It was a tough career, but someone had to do it. ;):D

 

While many think that one filtration method or another will render water "pure," nothing could be further from the truth. If all of the UV and chemical (Chlorination with hypochlorite etc.) treatments being used above are for taste and last bit of safety using water from municipal or tested well waters you should be fine.

 

UV radiation is most effective in further disinfecting water that has already been filtered using reverse osmosis. Here is and excerpt from a good article in Wiki with the highpoints of using UV for lay people:

 

"Disadvantages[edit]

UV disinfection is most effective for treating high-clarity, purified reverse osmosis distilled water. Suspended particles are a problem because microorganisms buried within particles are shielded from the UV light and pass through the unit unaffected. However, UV systems can be coupled with a pre-filter to remove those larger organisms that would otherwise pass through the UV system unaffected. The pre-filter also clarifies the water to improve light transmittance and therefore UV dose throughout the entire water column. Another key factor of UV water treatment is the flow rate—if the flow is too high, water will pass through without sufficient UV exposure. If the flow is too low, heat may build up and damage the UV lamp.[10]"

 

The whole article with advantages as well as disadvantages is here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet_germicidal_irradiation

 

Chlorination is effective over more time than UV because it stays in the water until it off gasses.

 

Chlorination still won't kill everything and when it comes in contact with organic material is produces carcinogenic THMs and other volatile compounds. Where many folks err is to never shock treat and rinse their water pipes and tanks on board, including the water heater, thinking a certain micron of filter will keep them safe when colonies can grow where the chlorine has been removed. Thus my recommend to only filter the chlorine out with a carbon filter via adsorption.

 

Viruses are not removed reliably nor volatile organic compounds ( VOCs ) except through distillation and some VOCs can distill and still remain in the end product.

A disadvantage of the technique is that water treated by chlorination is resistant to reinfection until the chlorine off-gasses, whereas UVGI water must be transported and delivered in such a way as to avoid contamination.

 

Excerpt fro m the Wiki on chlorinating water:

 

"Drawbacks to water chlorination

 

Disinfection by chlorination can be problematic, in some circumstances. Chlorine can react with naturally occurring organic compounds found in the water supply to produce compounds known as disinfection byproducts (DBPs). The most common DBPs are trihalomethanes (THMs) and haloacetic acids (HAAs). Trihalomethanes are the main disinfectant by-products created from chlorination with two different types, bromoform and dibromochloromethane, which are mainly responsible for health hazards. Their effects depend strictly on the duration of their exposure to the chemicals and the amount ingested into the body. In high doses, bromoform mainly slows down regular brain activity, which is manifested by symptoms such as sleepiness or sedation. Chronic exposure of both bromoform and dibromochloromethane can cause liver and kidney cancer, as well as heart disease, unconsciousness, or death in high doses.[16] Due to the potential carcinogenicity of these compounds, drinking water regulations across the developed world require regular monitoring of the concentration of these compounds in the distribution systems of municipal water systems. The World Health Organization has stated that the "risks to health from these by-products are extremely small in comparison with the risks associated with inadequate disinfection".[17]

 

There are also other concerns regarding chlorine, including volatile nature which causes it to disappear too quickly from the water system, and aesthetic concerns such as taste and odor."

 

That article is here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_chlorination

 

And just when you thought it was safe to go back into the water, here is one reason among many others that I do not use public swimming pools and small lakes and rivers. Ya never know who has been bathing, or peeing and all the other things people do in water:

 

Excerpt:

 

"Popular disinfectants do not kill HPV

 

Date:February 12, 2014

Source:Penn State

Summary:Commonly used disinfectants do not kill human papillomavirus (HPV) that makes possible non-sexual transmission of the virus, thus creating a need for hospital policy changes, according to researchers.

 

Commonly used disinfectants do not kill human papillomavirus (HPV) that makes possible non-sexual transmission of the virus, thus creating a need for hospital policy changes, according to researchers from Penn State College of Medicine and Brigham Young University.

 

"Because it is difficult to produce infectious HPV particles for research, little has been known about HPV susceptibility to disinfection," said Craig Meyers, Distinguished Professor of Microbiology and Immunology, Penn State College of Medicine.

Use of disinfectants on HPV in health care settings has been based on what works on other viruses or what is thought should be effective.

 

Meyers collaborated with Richard Robison, an expert in microbial disinfectants at Brigham Young University.

HPV is estimated to be among the most common sexually transmitted diseases and is linked to cervical cancers. For this study, researchers grew HPV16, a specific strain that is responsible for up to 60 percent of all HPV-associated cancers. They then used 11 common disinfectants on the virus.

 

These disinfectants included ones made of ethanol and isopropanol because these are common ingredients in surface disinfectants and hand sanitizers used in both public and health care settings. Study of these hand sanitizers is important because other research has shown high levels of HPV DNA on fingers of patients with current genital infections. While HPV is susceptible to certain disinfectants, including hypochlorite and peracetic acid, it is resistant to alcohol-based disinfectants.

 

"Chemical disinfectants in hand sanitizer are commonly used in the general population to prevent the spread of infectious diseases," Meyers said. "For flu or cold viruses they are very effective. But the data shows that they do nothing for preventing the spread of human papillomavirus."

 

They also tested other common disinfectants, including glutaraldehyde, which is used for sterilization in medical and dental facilities. Results show that glutaraldehyde is not effective at inactivating the HPV virus.

 

Results were published in the Journal of Antimicrobial Chemotherapy.

 

Other research has suggested that HPV could be transmitted non-sexually. The current study shows that medical instruments considered sterile could pose a risk for transmission.

 

"Chemical disinfectants used in the hospitals and other healthcare settings have absolutely no effect on killing human papillomavirus," Meyers said. "So unless bleach or autoclaving is used in the hospital setting, human papillomavirus is not being killed and there is a potential spread of HPV through hospital acquired or instrument or tool infection."

 

Meyers said the results suggest a need for a change in disinfectant use policies.

 

The above post is reprinted from materials provided by Penn State. The original item was written by Matthew Solovey. Note: Materials may be edited for content and length."

 

The original articles are here: http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/02/140212132944.htm

The original research at Penn State is here: http://news.psu.edu/story/303743/2014/02/12/research/popular-disinfectants-do-not-kill-hpv

 

I repeat the first rule of camping, don't drink chunky water. (Even when the chunks are tiny)

RV/Derek
http://www.rvroadie.com Email on the bottom of my website page.
Retired AF 1971-1998


When you see a worthy man, endeavor to emulate him. When you see an unworthy man, look inside yourself. - Confucius

 

“Those who can make you believe absurdities, can make you commit atrocities.” ... Voltaire

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It sounded like a good alternative instead of packing up and driving 30 miles for more fresh water.. But after researching, sounds like I may have contaminated my fresh water system for good.

 

I was at clear creek res south of leadville colorado. The stream was crystal clear and my GF made the suggestion and it worked great. We drink bottled water anyway because of that holding tank "taste" and didn't use the creek water to cook. Only bathing and toilet.

 

Anyway.. As soon as I had access to city water 5 days later, I filled up and purged the water heater and pipes and dumped the rest. Drove home and added a 1/4 cup of bleach to a 1/4 tank, and filled up and purged again.. I could smell the chlorine slightly as it came out.

 

This was so convenient for bathing, I'm tempted to do it again and never drink or cook with the water. But has anyone else done this and then decontaminated the system? I see 1/4 cup bleach per 15 gallons is recommended. That sure sounds strong.

And which filter should I use if I use mountain steam water again?

 

Thanks!

I cant see a problem, a bit of bleach will sterilize it, unless you got sediment in there.Peroxide also works. Since i RV mainly in Mexico, I don't drink out of my tank anyway, although a dose of fairly concentrated bleach,a drive around then a dump & refill would make it OK. I just got used to using bottled water.

Paul Beddows

Summer-Abbotsford BC, Winter Jalisco Mexico

Co-Founder of NATCOA

Wagon Master for Caravanas de Mexico RV Caravans

2010 Majestic Class C

 

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If your water tank is clean and sanatized, you should not have any "tank taste" in your water. If there is any taste, it would be from the water itself. I guess if you are used to bottled water, any well or city water would taste funny. We use a blue whole house filter that we purchased at Menards. It seems to do a good job. We have only had bad water once, but have been in areas with high lime content and the filter helps with that type of thing. It won't keep bacteria from being in your water when using an unreliable source to get your water. Animals pee in that water you know. And have you ever cleaned a fish tank? I'd rather not introduce possible unknown bacteria to my water supply (tank, lines, water heater etc.). If you are comfortable with it, hey, go for it.

 

** Water at a waterfall where we are at looks good too --- contaminated with e-coli from the farms up north of here. Can't even let people swim in the water. It looks good though.,

W.C. Fields made a statement about water, paraphrased 'Never drink water myself, you know what fish do in it'.

Happy Trails,

 

Florida Mike

EXPERTS AREN'T!! :D

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  • 2 months later...

Just a bit of a side track for full timers or avid dry campers.

 

I wouldn't waste my money on a couple of the systems that have been mentioned so far. You can pick up a UV unit for right around $70 off of ebay and pick up a couple of cheap filter housings to make your own system for around $50. For $150 you can get a 12gpm UV unit, but the filters and water pump will slow you down anyway so I don't think it's worth the added expense. The UV unit I have pulls 55 watts so it's not really much of an energy hog.

 

My system runs around 5gpm. It has a $10 5 micron pre filter, then a $15 .5 micron filter, then a $70 UV unit. I haven't connected it into the system yet, but I recently acquired a water softener tank that will be incorporated. My hope is that the whole system will be able to make even AZ and NM water drinkable this winter. :P

 

All told, I have around $300 invested and 90#'s that rides on a luggage wheeled cart. That's the battery, pump, filters, UV unit, and water softener tank. I still only run "marginally questionable" water sources through it, but theoretically, I could drop the pump head into just about anything and come out with crystal clear drinking water.

 

Food for thought.

 

In a "past-life" I "operated" in more than a few "remote" locations .........offshore and it seemed that the "local-water" was very good or.......VERY Bad.

 

In the good water areas (very few) I enjoyed the water........in the "Bad-water" locations it was a real pain........."offshore" bottled water often consisted of "local-Bad-Water" containers filled from a old garden hose........not good......sometimes the water was "Sterilized" by letting the container sit out in the sun light for some time........(theory has some merit ....but.....not very good in practice).

 

My job as a pilot was NOT very tolerant of "bad-water-sickness" in that the single-seat-"survey" aircraft were not equipped with toilets and many of the multi-place aircraft were toilet equipped it was not good to have the Captain sitting on the "throne" too long........

 

We had small water treatment units that worked very well.

 

The first stage involved a small Ozone generator that injected Ozone into a recirculating stream of water in a loop into a fixed container.

 

Ozone is the second most natural sterilizer known (Florine is first I am told) Ozone mechanically "shreds" (Kills) the bugs that live in the water and neutralizes many organic components as well.

 

The final phase of the water treatment was passing the Ozone treated water through a NSF certified Carbon Block Filter unit (Multipure unit from Las Vegas)

 

With the above two-phase-treatment method our water lab-tested as good or better than any bottled water.

 

We did NOT use UV since this concept does not kill the water bugs it only "Attempts" to "sterilize" the live bugs so that they will hopefully Not reproduce in the "host" (host=human that drinks the "buggy-water") Drinking water with "Live-Sterilized-Bugs" is ok.........Provided that the UV light intensity AND DWELL time is sufficient to Indeed ........"sterilize-the-bugs".........

 

Without the correct UV light intensity AND Dwell time your at risk of ingesting "fertile-bugs"........

 

UV light intensity degrades over the life of the bulb so it is often hard to determine if the intensity is able to sterilize as needed.

 

Ozone is very powerful and as such one needs to handle it with care ........but with a few simple procedures it is a very effective path to great water quality.

 

It has worked Perfect for us for decades in very poor-water locations around the world.....

 

Drive on..........(Drink with.....care)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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We had small water treatment units that worked very well.

 

The first stage involved a small Ozone generator that injected Ozone into a recirculating stream of water in a loop into a fixed container.

 

Ozone is the second most natural sterilizer known (Florine is first I am told) Ozone mechanically "shreds" (Kills) the bugs that live in the water and neutralizes many organic components as well.

 

The final phase of the water treatment was passing the Ozone treated water through a NSF certified Carbon Block Filter unit (Multipure unit from Las Vegas)

 

With the above two-phase-treatment method our water lab-tested as good or better than any bottled water.

 

Ozone is very powerful and as such one needs to handle it with care ........but with a few simple procedures it is a very effective path to great water quality.

 

It has worked Perfect for us for decades in very poor-water locations around the world.....

 

Drive on..........(Drink with.....care)

 

 

 

Could you share a link, or more information about this Purification system please?

1997 Ram ctd 4x4 5 speed 3.54

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How to disinfect drinking water by NDEP, is an excellent "keeper" on your computer. That is different than sanitizing your fresh water system.

I use the second method discussed on that page. It is easier to carry the granulated chlorine, takes much less to do the job, and does not leave the typical chlorine after-taste.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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Could you share a link, or more information about this Purification system please?

Rebar,

 

The systems were built up as per our needs so each unit was simple but not a commercial packaged system.

 

The basic carbon filter unit is made by Multipure co. Of Las Vegas, NV and you can order thes units online for about $450 as I recall they are stainless and are top quality NSF certified units.

 

The ozone generators used to be rather rare and costly but the hot tub makers found out how much better ozone is and the prices have fallen to about $100 for small generators.

The best method to inject ozone into your water is to use a small Venturi to allow the water stream of a small water pump loop intake out of the tank through the small recirculating pump through through Venturi where the ozone is injected into the water stream and then back into the tank.

 

Ok here is the important part......DO NOT breathe the Ozone fumes it tends to do to your lungs what it does to the bugs.

Ozone is very "erosive" to many metals and certain plastics so it is best to use stainless and Teflon and ozone safe tubing to carry concentrated ozone used for treatment.

The great news is that ozone only lingers for a few minutes before it reverts back into normal oxygen and all you have is great tasting safe water.

 

Ozone is the premium method to sanitize breweries after they become "infected" with bad-brew-bugs and it simply without peer when sanitization is the order of the day.

 

A lot of info is on the web regarding ozone so do some research and enjoy the taste of fresh water.......

 

Drive on........(Enjoy fresh water........)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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Do not use an ozone generator with plastic tanks or plumbing.

 

This is not exactly true.....if using PVC pipe it is best to use schd 80 pipe and fittings instead of regular schd 40

 

In fact almost all of the ozone injector venturis are plastic and most generator fittings and check valves are plastic as well.

 

I have had poly tanks (20 gal, 60 gal, 550gal & 6,000 gal) with millions of gallons of ozone treated water over + ten years old with no degradation whatsoever. ( In fact, UV is not exactly plastic friendly in water treatment applications )

 

It is true that VERY HIGH levels of ozone can become "erosive" BUT the consumer-grade ozone generators DO NOT generate high enough concentrations to harm common plastics found in consumer water containers.

 

Industrial grade ozone generators are a whole different ball game but I do not think folks on the forum are looking to install a 480 V 3 phase +$100,000 ozone generator for RV use.....

 

Drive on........(Enjoy the water)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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Do not use an ozone generator with plastic tanks and plumbing systems is what is written in my instructions for my 115 volt ozone generator that is installed in my trailer.

 

Yes indeed.......lawyer talk.......best not to apply 115 vols to be extra safe as well.......

 

And.........trucks do not drive over 55mph in California as well......

 

Drive on..........(Unless the placard says stop......)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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  • 6 months later...

Next time you fill from a creek or pond, use this Disinfecting drinking water chart from the EPA: http://ndep.nv.gov/bsdw/docs/disinfect_drinking_water.pdf

Disinfecting drinking water is different than sanitizing your plumbing, disinfecting is making water safe for drinking.

 

I thought Id resurrect this old thread because it has some good information in it.

 

My question today is, which PPM do I use from the link when I fill my fresh water tank from a creek again for bathing? 1 PPM or 5 PPM?

 

http://ndep.nv.gov/bsdw/docs/disinfect_drinking_water.pdf

 

And should I be neutralizing the household bleach with vitamin C? Iv heard chlorine can damage plastic plumbing..

 

Thanks

1997 Ram ctd 4x4 5 speed 3.54

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rebar the maximum residual concentration allowed in municipal drinking water is 4 PPM. That's to insure water remains pure enough to meet EPA standards. Please adhere to the minimum 30 Minute contact time prior to use.

To answer your question for disinfection, the minimum is 5 PPM, use that concentration. The residual measurement should never be less than 1 PPM or above 4 PPM. Below 1 PPM there is no way, without actual lab testing, to insure all bacteria is destroyed.

 

Yes, over time chlorine does slowly break-down plastics, BUT, most stix N bricks have plastic plumbing and seldom have to be re-plumbed because the residual is < 4 PPM. ( 4 PPM is the same as 4 pennies out of $10,000)

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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rebar the maximum residual concentration allowed in municipal drinking water is 4 PPM. That's to insure water remains pure enough to meet EPA standards. Please adhere to the minimum 30 Minute contact time prior to use.

To answer your question for disinfection, the minimum is 5 PPM, use that concentration. The residual measurement should never be less than 1 PPM or above 4 PPM. Below 1 PPM there is no way, without actual lab testing, to insure all bacteria is destroyed.

 

Yes, over time chlorine does slowly break-down plastics, BUT, most stix N bricks have plastic plumbing and seldom have to be re-plumbed because the residual is < 4 PPM. ( 4 PPM is the same as 4 pennies out of $10,000)

Great, thank you..

 

I wasn't worried about the 1-4 drinking ppm. But concerned about when I dumped 3/4 of a cup in the tank to sanitize. The link you posted before unfortunately doesn't work anymore.

 

From what I remember, I left that highly chlorinated kill water in the entire system for a day or two. Twice.. Still not a big deal? Or why you use Vitamin C?

1997 Ram ctd 4x4 5 speed 3.54

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The link still works for me - http://ndep.nv.gov/bsdw/docs/disinfect_drinking_water.pdf

is the web address.

Humm, for some reason the escapee website shortens the complete web address, it works anyway.

No, not a big deal at all.

I wouldn't be concerned about 3/4 cup = 6 oz of 5% bleach in 100G creek water.(24 PPM) The largest contaminant will likely be fecal coliform, and you want to make sure you killed every bit of that, and a higher concentration of fecal coliform (think animals upstream) will consume more chlorine.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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The link still works for me - http://ndep.nv.gov/bsdw/docs/disinfect_drinking_water.pdf

is the web address.

Humm, for some reason the escapee website shortens the complete web address, it works anyway.

No, not a big deal at all.

I wouldn't be concerned about 3/4 cup = 6 oz of 5% bleach in 100G creek water.(24 PPM) The largest contaminant will likely be fecal coliform, and you want to make sure you killed every bit of that, and a higher concentration of fecal coliform (think animals upstream) will consume more chlorine.

No, I meant your sanitizing link.. Here's another, but essentially its 1/4 cup bleach per 15 gallons and let sit over night and thoroughly flush.

 

The article also says Sodium Dichlor is another sanitizer and would come in handy for full timers on the road since 1 teaspoon sanitizes100 gallons.

1997 Ram ctd 4x4 5 speed 3.54

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You're right, the RV resources link is now dead. Art Knapp, a full-timer, owned the website, I don't know what happened to him.

The Sodium Dichlor article said to use 1 tsp per 100G water for sanitizing, and 1/2 tsp for disinfecting 100G drinking water. That is what I've done for perhaps 12 years now. If you choose to use this method, obtain a water-tight plastic bottle to carry and store Sodium Dichlor, as it is about 60-70% pure chlorine, which will burn skin, and the dust off it will burn your lungs when inhaled. It's best to read an MSDS prior to using Sodium Dichlor, federal law requires the seller to provide you one upon request.

 

UPDATE: I located Art Knapps website by using the internet wayback machine (internet archives) https://web.archive.org/web/20150224111436/http://www.rvlifestyle.net/id16.html

I downloaded the webpage so I'll always have it and not have to search again.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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Without the correct UV light intensity AND Dwell time your at risk of ingesting "fertile-bugs"........

 

That's why you buy an appropriate UV system. For example, one rated for the max water flow you're likely to see in an RV.

 

 

UV light intensity degrades over the life of the bulb so it is often hard to determine if the intensity is able to sterilize as needed.

 

You can buy a UV system with an "intensity meter" that measures the UV light output.

 

BTW, these systems ain't cheap.

 

SKP #79313 / Full-Timing / 2001 National RV Sea View / 2008 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
www.rvSeniorMoments.com
DISH TV for RVs

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No, I meant your sanitizing link.. Here's another, but essentially its 1/4 cup bleach per 15 gallons and let sit over night and thoroughly flush.

 

The article also says Sodium Dichlor is another sanitizer and would come in handy for full timers on the road since 1 teaspoon sanitizes100 gallons.

UPDATE: I located Art Knapps website by using the internet wayback machine (internet archives) https://web.archive.org/web/20150224111436/http://www.rvlifestyle.net/id16.html

 

 

Both of these sites are just blogs by ordinary folks who have made "experts" by others.

 

In the first blog by Steven Fletcher, Fletcher recommends sodium dichlor because a friend of his "spent twenty years in the swimming pool business. He's an expert when it comes to sanitizing swimming pools and spas and says the same rules apply to RV fresh water systems."

 

The second blog by Arthur Knapp focuses on removing slime and algae from your water tank. Knapp gives specific recommendations without saying where they came from -- except when he mentions "200 ppm disinfectant solution recommended by the EPA". But he has no cite for this either.

 

As far as I can tell, the "1/4 cup of bleach per 15 gal of holding tank capacity" maxim comes from the often-revised NFPA 1192 Standards for RVs. I think the reason this publication is never cited is because you have to buy the standard.

SKP #79313 / Full-Timing / 2001 National RV Sea View / 2008 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
www.rvSeniorMoments.com
DISH TV for RVs

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Interesting blog from a guy building a Jeep to spend 2 years in Africa. Here's his take on water, and his website: The Road Chose Me

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

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