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Power windows


EagleEye

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I have a M2-106 and the drivers side power windows, both front and back, just quit working. Any suggestions as to where to start looking without tearing into the dash.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dave and Marge

2010 Phaeton Motor Home
Previous Mobile Suites 36 RSSB3 (for sale)
and 2005 FL M2-106 Sport (for sale after 5er sells)

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The both stoped working at the same time. Worked fine one day and nothing the next. Got to be something that's common to both. They both have seperate switches. I did check the fuses and there is only one fuse for windows and it is good.

Dave and Marge

2010 Phaeton Motor Home
Previous Mobile Suites 36 RSSB3 (for sale)
and 2005 FL M2-106 Sport (for sale after 5er sells)

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I would take off one door panel and check that the motor is getting power when the switch is activated. I believe the only common element between the different windows is the fuse and the wire to the switch head. If some of the windows work then the fuse and wiring to the switch head is good and the problem lies either in the individual switch itself or the individual window circuit or motor. Probably just a coincidence that both quit at the same time or more likely that one quit and the other quit at a different time but you didn't realize it.

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As above, start at the motor to see if you have 12V when the switch is activated. While you are there, test the motor with a jumper wire or something like a Power Probe if you have one. If the motor works when supplied by you, go to the switch and see if you have a 12V output from the switch to the motor, If you have power coming out of the switch, the wiring has a fault between the switch and the door. If you do not have power on either side of the switch, checkout the input side of the fuse block to see if it has failed there.

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just experienced for the second time an episode where the drivers window quit working. The first time I pulled the door panel and the plug on the motor and when I plugged it back in it began working again. It worked for several months with no problems then quit again. This time I checked power and ground to the plug on the motor and found both. AHA, bad motor. I unbolted the motor from the regulator assy, to see if it could be replaced separately and then plugged it in and it started working again. I am surmising that there is a dead spot on the commutator that makes it intermittent. I am in the process of trying to find a replacement motor, either from Freightliner or adapting a motor from another application since the basic motor seems to be used in many other vehicles.

 

Rich

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Mine was both driver's side windows. I did pull the door panel and didn't fine anything wrong but wasn't getting any power to the motor. I figured it must be not getting power from the switch. I pulled the panel with the switches to try to find the something loose but didn't find anything. Now none of the windows work. I'm on the road and don't have time to dig into it further right now.

Dave and Marge

2010 Phaeton Motor Home
Previous Mobile Suites 36 RSSB3 (for sale)
and 2005 FL M2-106 Sport (for sale after 5er sells)

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Mine was both driver's side windows. I did pull the door panel and didn't fine anything wrong but wasn't getting any power to the motor. I figured it must be not getting power from the switch. I pulled the panel with the switches to try to find the something loose but didn't find anything. Now none of the windows work. I'm on the road and don't have time to dig into it further right now.

Since none of the windows work now, you probably blew a fuse while investigating. A common problem with anything electrical in a door is the wire that goes thru the door pillar into the door. Since it flexes every time you open the door it can break internally, resulting in no power or no ground to the motor. When you have time, replace the fuse (if bad), go back to the switches and make sure power and ground is being supplied to the door circuit. If it is, check to see if its getting to the motor. With a test light connected, one end to one of the motor connector terminals and the other end to the other terminal of the motor connector you should see the light when pressing the switch both up and down. This demonstrates that you have both ground and power at the connector to the motor. The switch works the motor in both directions by powering one side and grounding the other side for one direction and reversing the power and grounds for the other direction. If you have no light move one of the test light connectors to a known good ground and recheck by pressing the switch in both directions. If it now lights in one direction with the good ground you know that the ground side of the circuit between the motor connector and the switch is bad. No light here in either direction probably means the problem is on the power side. If I recall (an iffy proposition) the power and ground wires to the motor are tan and tan/white, at least on my 2005 m2. As electrical problems go, this one is fairly simple to diagnose. Good luck and let us know the results.

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When ours went out many years ago we easily found replacements at a store that installed radios, speakers, car security alarms etc. They had them in stock.

Are you saying that the audio shop had FL specific power window motors in stock? I would find that surprising.

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