Jim & Wilma Posted May 25, 2016 Report Share Posted May 25, 2016 I need to replace the rear suspension leveling control valve on our 2009 730. It’s a Hadley valve but can’t find a part number on it and appears there’s a few different configurations using the same valve body. My guess is it’s the H01501UD, but just guessing. Anybody know the part number? Jim & Wilma 2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO 2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby" 2017 Smart Class of 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyA Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Jim, it has been almost five years prior, but I found this in my archives. My replacement was a H01501VS. That number is close to yours but not exact. Keep in mind my Volvo came with a WABCO valve and not a Hadley. The parts guy at Volvo takes my VIN, looks up the part and says, "here, this'll work, pay me." He hasn't given me the wrong part yet. Old WABCO below: This is the H01501VS Kit Man, it is hard to remember everything........ but I do recall buying a new rod with the rubber end pieces since it did not come with the valve. There was something about the rod that was off and I ended up having to do something to make the rod work. Make it longer or shorter or swap rubber from new to old metal rod - there have been so many things my memory discards the little details. But, in any event this kit worked on my '04 VNL and (thankfully) is still working. I did notice on your link that the part you asked about indicates that it will replace the Volvo H1501VS (No 0 after H?) so it will most likely work as well. Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Is there a way to keep the hitch aired up when the engine is running and the truck is enroute? I know the hitch can be plumbed into th air in several locations. Mine previously would lose air when I was driving, now it stays inflated. When the truck shuts off the hitch could be dumped and stay down. Also when the suspension is dumped, doesn't go back up when ignition is turned off. Where would what be plumbed into in order to accomplish this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Roger Someone here had a levelling valve added to their Trailer Saver but I couldn't find the thread. I'd like to do that to mine as well and I have the valve but need help with the design and fab. There must be a way to change the air dump switch from switched power to live, I assume you want this for loading and unloading the smart. Nigel 2006 Volvo VNL 430, 2006 smart cabrio cdi, 2000 Triple E Topaz 30' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Nigel, If memory serves (that is often iffy) Rickeieio added a leveling valve to his. Maybe he will chime in. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Nigel, If memory serves (that is often iffy) Rickeieio added a leveling valve to his. Maybe he will chime in. Carl, For an olde pharte, your memory's pretty good. Yes, I added a leveling valve to our TS hitch. I have pictures, but still haven't figured out how to post them. I'll dig around and send them to you via email. I tapped in to the line which supplies the rear suspension. I plan to add a valve to allow me to deflate just the hitch. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Roger Someone here had a levelling valve added to their Trailer Saver but I couldn't find the thread. I'd like to do that to mine as well and I have the valve but need help with the design and fab. There must be a way to change the air dump switch from switched power to live, I assume you want this for loading and unloading the smart. Nigel That's one of the reasons, truck drops 4". I've already damages one hitch by having the truck air up when truck was moved back with ignition off. Depending on where it is plumbed in the truck compressor will keep the hitch bags aired up while truck is running. On the other hand, when I dump the suspension bags and air from hitch while unhooking, I'd like the hitch bags not inflate afterwards until I'm hoking back up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Kildow Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 I need to replace the rear suspension leveling control valve on our 2009 730. It’s a Hadley valve but can’t find a part number on it and appears there’s a few different configurations using the same valve body. My guess is it’s the H01501UD, but just guessing. Anybody know the part number? Not sure if Volvo has an online setup like Freightliner does. But if they do you can put in the S/N of your truck and it will give you the part number of the part that came factory. Pete PS found this you have to get an account. http://www.volvotrucks.us/parts-and-services/parts/select-part-store/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Rickeieio If you can send the pics to Suite that would be great. I vaguely remember you extending the arm but I don't remember how it was mounted on the TS. Nigel 2006 Volvo VNL 430, 2006 smart cabrio cdi, 2000 Triple E Topaz 30' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaHybrid Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Roger, Depending on what you want the air to do, you could add a latching air solenoid or a non latching air solenoid to the airline going to the hitch. The latching type will keep whatever position the solenoid is in when power is turned off (air up or air down). The non latching solenoid will keep the air in the same position (air up or air down) as long as power is supplied but will dump the air when the truck is turned off. Power to the solenoid is routed to a switch on the dash to make it simple to use. 2017 Kenworth T6802015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites2016 Smart Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Here is Ricks pic. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Thanks Carl and Rick. 2006 Volvo VNL 430, 2006 smart cabrio cdi, 2000 Triple E Topaz 30' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmzero Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 That's one of the reasons, truck drops 4". I've already damages one hitch by having the truck air up when truck was moved back with ignition off. Depending on where it is plumbed in the truck compressor will keep the hitch bags aired up while truck is running. On the other hand, when I dump the suspension bags and air from hitch while unhooking, I'd like the hitch bags not inflate afterwards until I'm hoking back up again. Another option would be to plumb in a DC powered solenoid. That's what I will be doing on mine when I finish out the back of the bed. I have my hitch supplied with the same air circuit as the rear suspension. To dump the bags, I'll flip one switch on the dash or at the rear of the truck. The switch will open one valve (at the hitch to release air) and close another valve (to keep the suspension filled). View High Resolution Photo View High Resolution Photo "Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy HaulerT-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Before you start running wire, poke around in the dash for unused connectors. On my truck there are a bunch (no sleeper, but still has most of the wiring for one), and a few of them are already wired to the solenoid block near the back of the transmission. If you can find one of those, you could buy the Volvo switch and solenoid and save a lot of hassle--just needing to run the air line to the hitch. 45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Before you start running wire, poke around in the dash for unused connectors. On my truck there are a bunch (no sleeper, but still has most of the wiring for one), and a few of them are already wired to the solenoid block near the back of the transmission. If you can find one of those, you could buy the Volvo switch and solenoid and save a lot of hassle--just needing to run the air line to the hitch. Being as you mention this, I'm going to high jack and ask a question. I just removed a 5th wheel lock/unlock switch yesterday. Has wires and air lines going to the location I likely need the valves. Could I use this for a rear air bag dump. My truck don't have one. Who would have thunk. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forxlr8n Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 I had to walk 200 feet round trip for this 22612887 Volvo Part "If you can not measure it, you can not improve it." Lord Kelvin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forxlr8n Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Barksdale Part # 52341 Q293F3 Current production on most trucks "If you can not measure it, you can not improve it." Lord Kelvin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim & Wilma Posted May 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Jim, it has been almost five years prior, but I found this in my archives. My replacement was a H01501VS. Yup, that looks the same as the one I have and figure the difference in the last two characters is the kitting. The "UD" version comes with a variety of levers and "VS" version is a fitting mod kit to convert from the WABCO . Otherwise the hose sizes, positive dump signal and such are the same. Thanks for info and diagrams. Interesting they sold a kit to mod from the WABCO versus just sourcing the WABCO. Mine appears to be original installed Hadley. Not sure if Volvo has an online setup like Freightliner does. But if they do you can put in the S/N of your truck and it will give you the part number of the part that came factory. Pete PS found this you have to get an account. http://www.volvotrucks.us/parts-and-services/parts/select-part-store/ That'd be nice to sit at home and see what parts my dealer has. Submitted info and got a "Thank you for your SELECT Part Store application submission. We will be in touch soon." response. So we'll see. Barksdale Part # 52341 Q293F3 Current production on most trucks Thanks. Functionally that's the same valve but connections are oriented differently. Jim & Wilma 2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO 2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby" 2017 Smart Class of 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 Being as you mention this, I'm going to high jack and ask a question. I just removed a 5th wheel lock/unlock switch yesterday. Has wires and air lines going to the location I likely need the valves. Could I use this for a rear air bag dump. My truck don't have one. Who would have thunk. Duh. Senior moment here. Yes, I used the sliding fifth wheel switch to supply my hitch, and DID NOT tee into the rear suspension ans I stated previously. I've slept since then, in various places, even a Holiday Inn. In the picture Carl so graciously posted for me, you can see I utilized an existing hole in the hitch, drilled and tapped a bolt to provide a pivot point for the ball joint. What the picture doesn't show is that configured as such, it will bring that short arm over center and bend stuff. I've since doubled the length of the arm on the valve and it now works as intended. Moving the valve closer to the pivot point of the hitch would accomplish the same thing. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted May 27, 2016 Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 I have a 2005 780 and I replaced my rear leveling valve in the summer of 2014 and used Volvo # 85124912. It seems that number has now been "upgraded" to Volvo # 85144423. There is also a newer style leveling "rod" that connects between the suspension and the leveling valve. It eliminates the "rubber" pieces Volvo # 22379948 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim & Wilma Posted May 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2016 I have a 2005 780 and I replaced my rear leveling valve in the summer of 2014 and used Volvo # 85124912. It seems that number has now been "upgraded" to Volvo # 85144423. More clues - thanks. Found a picture of your Volvo # 85124912 and appears to also be a Hadley H01501, same as mine. Went ahead and ordered the Hadley and will probably install next weekend. Jim & Wilma 2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO 2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby" 2017 Smart Class of 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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