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sundancer268

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About sundancer268

  • Birthday 03/24/1950

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern Michigan
  • Interests
    Boating (cruising), Touring, Electrical, Wood Working, Mechanics, Photography, Museums, History

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  1. You have to remember the higher you go the less oxygen there is to breath so naturally taller people are oxygen deprived and obviously have brain damage compared to shorter people.
  2. Batteries are only active on my TST sensors when they sense pressure. I install mine in the spring and remove them in the fall and get 2-3 years out of a set of batteries. I am guessing other brands would be somewhat the same.
  3. I use Silicone Grease on my O-Rings and get several years on each O-Ring. Dow DC-4 or DC-11 depending what I grab from my tool box.
  4. I converted my Motor Home, Travel Trailer and Utility Trailer to LEDs and I am quite happy with the results. The Tail/Brake light housings on the Utility Trailer were not available in LED so I just replaced them with new Incandescent and added some new LED Tail/Brake lights in a new place. I also could not find LEDs for the front clearance lights on the Motor Home so the replacements were Incandescent also. I am still looking but they still are not available so far.
  5. I would go RoadMaster, in my experience they are the easiest to install and I have not heard of any failures in a RoadMaster tow bar that was operated within the weight rating of the tow bar. Blue-x on the other hand has had some failures reported on the various RV Web Site forums. Do a search on tow bar failures and see what pops up. Also be advised you will need to add a braking system to the towed Jeep. What you get will depend on whether the Motor Home has a Diesel Engine with Air Brakes or is a Gas Engined Coach with conventional Hydraulic Brakes.
  6. Every trailer I have wired, the brown wire was the running lights. Looking at the WEB site for eTrailer, I see there are two standards. Being as you are connecting to an enclosed trailer and not an "RV" I would bet you are wired per the "SAE" standard. https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring-7-way.aspx
  7. My coach came with a 6 pin round and the Road Master Sterling All-Terrain tow bar came with the 6-pin round plugs. I use the magnetic lights on my Jeep Cherokee and just run the cable along the roof rack and then under the hood by the wipers. I mounted a 6-pin connector at the front of the Jeep and used one of the 6 wires for my Air-Force One brake system and then used 4 of the remaining wires to connect a flat four connector that permanently sets under the hood. This is the connector I plug my magnetic tail lights into. I also did this on my old Ford Focus and have had no issues with this system since I set it up originally in 2009. One connection under the hood and one connection at the front of the Jeep and I am on my way with the Tail Lights and on-board braking system hooked up and ready to go.
  8. The Gas Turbines were synthetic, the Diesels were Mil-L-9250, conventional dino used by the military since I joined in the 70s. My coach has set about 11 month a year and last year we again only put about 300 miles on it. Oil quality has changed so much in the last 70 years that the old norms are no longer a fact. My first car they recommended 1000 mile oil changes and SB rated Oil 30 weight in the summer and 10W weight in the winter, My 2019 Jeep requires SN rated oil semi synthetic, quite a difference, about 12 revisions in the Oil Specification since the 1955 Plymouth and the 2019 Jeep.
  9. Haven't changed the Oil in my Cummins since 2015 and every year the oil analysis says to run it another year and submit a new sample. I am a firm believer in oil analysis as that is what we used in the Navy and our engines were ran a lot harder than any civilian diesel/gas engines. In the 4 1/2 years I was on my last ship, we only changed the oil in one of the four diesels and never in the Gas Turbine engines and that ship was four years oil when I reported aboard.
  10. I have used my Resmed S-9 CPAP's on a Modified Sine Wave Inverter with no problems. I have not tried our new S-10s on the MSW inverter. Both the S-9 and S-10 I believe are 24 VDC units and if you buy the 12 Volt power supply from Resmed, you still have the power conversion loss of going going from 12 to 24 volts or 12 volts to 120 volts. You will find the 12-120 volt conversion a lot cheaper.
  11. My understanding is that the arms are not the issue with most Awning failures, but the wind getting under the roller and overcoming the spring tension causing the awning to become a big sail. The mounting hardware is not designed or capable of holding the awning to the RV and it rips off causing all kinds of damage. A lot of people have just wrapped Velcro tape around the arms to provide additional security with the pins and still had their awning rip off. I understand the key is to put a pin in the roller to arm attachment to lock the roller to the arm when traveling. For shorter people, this can be a problem. In your case, I would just wrap the arms with some kind of strap and hope the wind currents at the back of the RV are not ever strong enough to get under the roller and start unwinding the awning. Keeping the arms Pinned/Wrapped will help prevent any bouncing down the road from providing any chance for any little arm movement to provide that opening. I converted my side awning to electric and there is no way to force the roller to unwind manually, I just hope the motor never fails in the deployed position and I have to move out on some schedule.
  12. A lot of Vehicles with computer controlled Engines/Air Conditioning will dis-engage the compressor when the engine is under heavier than normal load, like Wide Open Throttle or what ever else the computer decides is heavy load. This is to ensure you have maximum power as needed. Some will also shut off the Alternator to deliver max power. I would not worry about unless it happens while normal driving at steady speeds and normal temperatures.
  13. Sounds like the cooling unit went south on you. There is no way the owner can check the refrigerant level that I know of and I don't know of any RV Service Departments that can either. They will want to sell you a new reefer or a cooling unit. You can purchase a cooling unit yourself and install it if you are handy and physically able. I would not go with a unit made by the manufacturer anymore. The units made before the turn of the century were better built in my opinion than the 21st century units. I have a unit in my Motor home from 95 and other than the control board failing shortly after I purchased the unit used, I have had no problems. I installed a used unit from a salvage yard in my 1984 Travel Trailer and it also works good. I believe it is a early 90s unit. One is a Norcold and the other is a Dometic. As long as the units are operated only when level or in motion, they should work almost forever as there are no moving parts to wear out.
  14. Cherokee has an independent front suspension, not a solid axle.
  15. Local Auto Parts Store probably has them on the shelf. For the price, I would just get both and see what fits and if you buy locally, they will probably just take the un-used ones back, you can ask when you purchase them.
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