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porky69

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    Coaldale,Alberta, Canada

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  1. This is a year round restriction. Anything rv is OK.
  2. There are many different air compressors that any HDT can be spec'ed with, irregardless of engine model, but expect 50+lbs.
  3. Sounds to me like you have a bad relay valve. I am all for doing it yourself but if you are not real familiar with how air brake systems work and are plumbed, take it to a truck shop..it's not just your life at stake it's everyone on the road.
  4. I am in the same boat...put a set of Road X drives on my Freightliner conversion and am very happy....run smooth without balancing and about 1/2 the price....I will never wear them out before they rot so....Have put Sailun's on one of my daughters pickup and they are every but as good as the BFGoodrich and Coopers on my pickup and my wife's Tahoe
  5. From what I read there are exemption for low mile per year (something like 10,000miles/yr) users and a few other special circumstances ...
  6. Don't use the do-it-yourself stuff with stop leak in it....if you do and then take it to a shop they will want to flush and replace everything (relatively speaking). Find the leak, replace/repair the leak and top it up. Do-it-yourself plain freon top up can work quite well if there is still pressure in the system, we do it to dads Dodge early each summer and have been for about 10yrs. If pressure is zero it probably won't work out great.
  7. As rickeieio said.... Once that's done I would suggest cordless for power tools. Quieter, more convenient, can use them anywhere(so long as you have a charged battery), no air hoses to trip over, and more power (usually...my 1/2" Milwaukee has more torque than a lot of 1 inch air guns) A 1 inch impact needs a monster compressor if you are doing more than a couple nuts at a time, otherwise you are always waiting for pressure to build. In my opinion you don't need to buy Snap-on, Mac, etc if you are using them to make a living, just buy good quality. There's a reason Harbor Freight is cheap to buy.
  8. For the shake at 50-60mph...did you have the driveline and pinion angle recalculated for the shorter wheelbase and one less axle. Rear drive axle has the pinion in a different position as compared to the original forward axle and this will change all of the driveline angles, which may cause vibration. You may have to shim the drive to adjust the pinion angle and/or adjust the hanger bearing height. If the track bar or any other suspension bushings are shot they need to be replaced before changing pinion angle as they are inter-related
  9. You are no longer a commercial vehicle and therefore have no licenced commercial GVWR, you are either a motorhome or an oversized pickup truck as far as the DOT are concerned. As others have stated, if they see/feel that there is something with your rig they will come and chase you down. In all of my years of RV'ing the only scale I pulled into (had a one ton dually and 38ft Fifth at the time) was the Yahk Scale in British Columbia and the only reason I did was they had special temporary signage up for RV's to report for inspection. On that day the port was backwards.....RV's report, commercial vehicles roll on....
  10. Not sure what engine you have but check the fan clutch. Bearings might be going. Over the years of trucking and Motorcoach ownership have had several sound like that, and it was the fan clutch. You will have to have the truck aired up, key on, engine off and give it a spin. Should be smooth through full rotation, but probably won't free spin very far. If this is the problem you will want to get it fixed ASAP, if the bearings fail completely the fan will contact the radiator...
  11. porky69

    Solar on truck

    Have you considered something like this.....no personal experience just have seen trucks with them.... Flexible Solar Panels
  12. porky69

    Tires

    I just put 8 new Road-X SDR1 11R22.5 (http://roadxtire.com/SDR1.html) tires on my tandem motorcoach for $3200cdn ($2675us). Came highly recommended by my tire shop.....and they know I don't buy junk but also don't like to throw money out the window. Only out about 100km on them but no vibration that I can feel and we didn't balance as they have never had issues with Road X tires. They still only recommend Michelin for steers for highway use.
  13. I too am a big DIY'er.... But you need to compare apples to apples... in this case it is not fair to compare a the price of a Jackalopee (with stuff like diagnostic LED's, strain reliefs, connectors, proven track record, etc) to a no frills design (which I like...it does the same functions, but doesn't include any extras). Your pricing doesn't factor in connectors, heat shrink tubing, extra wire. I am sure that the first edition Jackalopee built for his own use was built for $50 or less but has evolved to a pretty much plug and play device...hence the price difference. Not bashing you, I would probably build my own as well. A fairer comparison is to the Hoppy 46255, which can be had for $60ish.....same basic functions but no frills as compared to a Jackalopee.
  14. porky69

    Engine heater

    Best block heater out there....no plug in required, 7 day programmable timer, only needs 2hrs to have engine at 150* or more....sold at most truck repair facilities/dealers.... Webasto Heater
  15. Don't think that just because the truck only has 40,000miles on it that stuff isn't worn out......Volvo/Pete/KW/FL/WS aren't any different than Ford/GM/Ram, they use the cheapest stuff that fills the need(which if the original purchaser is smart will spec upgrades). I had to replace shocks on my Pete at 20,000miles. Seats are a finnicky thing, some seats just about cannot be set comfortably if you have certain combinations of body attributes. I for example have relatively short legs, larger than average waist and average height and I find if I adjust some seats so it doesn't bottom out on every bump it puts me way to high in the air and then I can't reach the pedals without sliding the seat against the steering wheel which is uncomfortable. If I lower the seat so I am able to reach the pedals and steering wheel comfortably then the seat constantly bottoms out. Some seats are worse than others. I have learned to love sitting flat on the floor (no air in seat suspension), that way the seat doesn't move..... Being lightweight is a tough one for a lot of seats....they seem to be designed for hefty folks.....
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