cyber monday sale at OTR Performance

[jeffw]

We purchased OTR's EGR delete kit earlier this year, and it's been doing well.

 

They've got that kit and a bunch of other stuff (like the D12 boost sensor) on sale for 10-15% off.

 

http://otrperformance.com/store/

 

-jeff

[Nuke-E]

There are a few others out there that may be of interest to this crowd also...

 

Buy 2 Photons, get 1 free and/or buy an Electron (basically a Photon with GSM cellular interface (no Wi-Fi needed)) and get an upgrade to an asset tracker (adds GPS sensor). Link

 

Anova Sous Vide Precision Cooker (newer version of what I used in the seminar at the rally) $50 off + extra 15% off with HOLIDAY2016 coupon code direct from Anova, or basically the same price ($109.65) from Amazon, Prime eligible.

 

The clamp-on DC current meter I wrote about is also on sale for $35 here. Not a big discount compared to previous sales, but probably the best I've seen on this one.

 

Also, look in my signature for some other goodies. :-)

[Scrap]

Order for T660 fogs going in tomorrow! Should be pretty cool.

 

I think I'd get a thorough flogging if I put D2S' in my T680's, but I don't buy the bulbs! So don't wait up for that order........

[Nuke-E]

Order for T660 fogs going in tomorrow! Should be pretty cool.

 

I think I'd get a thorough flogging if I put D2S' in my T680's, but I don't buy the bulbs! So don't wait up for that order........

 

The removable igniter adapters that let you use a D2S bulb in place of a D1S are pretty nice. I have no idea why that bulb type even exists--it's as if somebody had never thought to move the igniter out to the end of the plug, like certain bakkast manufacturers had done all along...

 

I may go ahead and send you a fog light ahead of the official release--I'm waiting on feedback from a tester (since I don't have a T660), but a second one wouldn't hurt. Especially seeing how you're usually the type to come up with pretty good ideas...

[Scrap]

Sure you can send me an early set. Part of my life is to keep my guys 'relevant' in the aftermarket world.

 

Yea the ignitor plug is what we were used to in Hella Gen 4 on the 660's so it wasn't too big of a deal to us. There's quite a few trucks that have restrike troubles on their 2nd-3rd bulb because the contacts in the ignitor start to get all arced up and you end up buying a $50 ignitor anyways. So hopefully D1S should solve that as well as some of the CB troubles. Some of these team trucks and night shift trucks can hit 1500 hrs in a year and have started doing bulbs during yearly DOT to try to keep them bright as new.

[Nuke-E]

Sure you can send me an early set. Part of my life is to keep my guys 'relevant' in the aftermarket world.

 

Yea the ignitor plug is what we were used to in Hella Gen 4 on the 660's so it wasn't too big of a deal to us. There's quite a few trucks that have restrike troubles on their 2nd-3rd bulb because the contacts in the ignitor start to get all arced up and you end up buying a $50 ignitor anyways. So hopefully D1S should solve that as well as some of the CB troubles. Some of these team trucks and night shift trucks can hit 1500 hrs in a year and have started doing bulbs during yearly DOT to try to keep them bright as new.

 

I've heard the argument about the D1S being better for EMI, but I'm not quite sure I follow, as the HF AC is still coming from the ballast with about the same cable length.

 

I've been recommending every 2-3 years for bulb replacements in commercial service, though a team driven truck should probably do it sooner. I've been trying to get an early customer (husband-wife team) to buy a set of bulbs for a year now. At last check, they're over 400,000 miles--you know they're not as bright as they could be.

 

The only igniter failures that come to mind are from someone breaking the tabs on the bulbs and driving for a month with nothing really holding the connector in place...big surprise, the contacts got hot. I'd be curious what kind of voltage those ballasts are seeing prior to igniter failure--whenever I get a chance, I plug a volt/ammeter inline at the low beam connector. Volvo's more than 3 or 4 years old are usually 11V at best with a 3-4A load, the early Pete 389s tend to be about the same.

 

Just remembered that there's a certain T680 owner I need to bug for some pictures comparing his stock Hella projector to the new ones he installed after the rally.

[Scrap]

Yea they tell me around 2000 hours you are about the same as halogen and have a whole lot of extra blue. But don't spread the word so you can still e-bay off your old bulbs... Been told that it is all of the extra clip type connections that cause the extra EMI and someday I'm going to cut the base apart on a D1S. Supposedly once you get through the outside metal box it is all super sealed and shielded up to help with EMI. I don't notice much CB difference between T660 and T680 (D2S vs D1S) but the CB wiring is totally different between the two trucks. A lot of it could be persnickety OEM stuff too. I'm thinking aftermarket is probably just fine for D2S for a long time to come. I think anything Japanese is well rooted in D2S and is going to stay that way for quite awhile. It's those Germans that like to change it up.

 

The hood harness connector just above the bumper going crusty is a real common root cause for voltage drop/arcing/strike issues. But trucks get old and it happens so hopefully D1S helps to make it all a little bit less sensitive to it all. I just can't believe the T660 HID's turn 10 years old this month. It seems just like yesterday.

[Nuke-E]

Yea they tell me around 2000 hours you are about the same as halogen and have a whole lot of extra blue. But don't spread the word so you can still e-bay off your old bulbs... Been told that it is all of the extra clip type connections that cause the extra EMI and someday I'm going to cut the base apart on a D1S. Supposedly once you get through the outside metal box it is all super sealed and shielded up to help with EMI. I don't notice much CB difference between T660 and T680 (D2S vs D1S) but the CB wiring is totally different between the two trucks. A lot of it could be persnickety OEM stuff too. I'm thinking aftermarket is probably just fine for D2S for a long time to come. I think anything Japanese is well rooted in D2S and is going to stay that way for quite awhile. It's those Germans that like to change it up.

 

The hood harness connector just above the bumper going crusty is a real common root cause for voltage drop/arcing/strike issues. But trucks get old and it happens so hopefully D1S helps to make it all a little bit less sensitive to it all. I just can't believe the T660 HID's turn 10 years old this month. It seems just like yesterday.

 

2000 hours also happens to be all the farther any of the OEs go as far as design life certification (which is casually used in almost every example in J2009). The system as a whole has to pass all of the photometry tests (including color) at 70% of that (1400h), and they suggest that 75% should survive the rated life without failing. Of course, that's also with 10,000 on/off cycles, which seems pretty excessive, especially for an OTR truck that's typically going to have the lights on for much more than 12 minutes at a time. There's really no provision for accelerated testing though, so I can certainly understand that a 3-month long uninterrupted test gets pretty expensive.

 

At least your trucks just have a problem at the connector. I've seen several Volvos now with chafing in the harness at the left hood hinge, which seems to result from not re-tying it after bumper work. On all of them, it was the low beam headlight wire that was in the worst shape too--not sure if that's a function of heat, or just the way the harness gets assembled. Of course, with all white wires, the only way you know it's the low beam is because the light isn't working. A little chafing and water/dirt ingress makes the printing on the wires pretty useless.