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Rig my T680


Scrap

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So we got Mr Georgia Hybrid’s truck born last week that is kinda naked in the back. We could do it all by email but all you get is two dudes getting all chummy and nobody else learns from that. Plus I get a bit hard headed, push Jack’s envelope a bit, and we want to be sure y’all slow us down a bit so we get it right. So feel free to call BS or saw whoa that’s really gonna suck if it works that way.

 

So anyways, attached is the truck. She’s plumb full where she needs to be and is 120% bare from the sleeper back. Like nothing bare minus that freakin APU. So it ought to be maximized for steps, droms, ramps, boxes, drawers, whatever. Should be good.

 

And here’s the dash pic so you know what we are talking about:

(OK fail...GH will have to insert his pic...)

 

And heres the manual behind it all. Boring.

http://kenworth.com/media/52134/hd-t680-t880-body-builder-manual-kenworth.pdf

 

And here’s the really, really long list of “hooktuits” that need to be connected:

 

The truck got semi-full connections so it has trailer air and electrical connections both behind the sleeper and at the end of frame. It has the regular J560 plug at each end and also has the yellow 3731 plug for trailer accessories at each end. The J560’s are normal wired except the center pin is your trailer charge line. It is 30A with the "trailer hotline" switch on the dash to turn it on and off. As far as the yellow plugs, the ISO plugs are pinned as follows:

 

1: Trailer Ground

2: Trailer Spare 3 (unhooked at dash as we ran out of switches)

3: Trailer warning light

4: Trailer floodlight dash switch (15A Batt power)

5: Trailer power dash switch #2 (15A Batt power)

6: Trailer backup lamps

7: Regular trailer ABS power (the old blue line 25A IGN)

 

Then under the sleeper in the air dryer area we put an inline junction box. This is a box of ring terminals that should help in wiring the drom and BOS lights. It is wired just like the J560 but note that it is a splice point -not a parallel harness- so what you take out here has to be added to your trailer draw. Also note that factory stock it is commercial trailer style brake & turn so if you don’t like that on your drom you need to inject your Jackalope before this box. So its ring terminals:

 

1: Trailer Ground 1: Trailer Ground

2: Trailer tail 2: Trailer tail

3: Trailer marker Or If Converted => 3: Trailer marker

4: Trailer LH turn 4: LH Stop/Turn

5: Trailer stop 5: Trailer Elec Brake

6: Trailer RH turn 6: RH Stop/Turn

7: Trailer ABS power 7: Trailer ABS power

 

Then on the LH side of your cluster is a set of custom idiot lights. You hook your warning lead to a connector at the RH side of the steering column and it’ll light it up. I set it up as:

 

1: Trailer warning light. Whatever you want to warn about the trailer like pump left on, some door open, low voltage, whatever, you get me a signal to 3731 pin 3 and I’ll light the dash.

2: Trailer brake power failure. You blow the fuse to your brake controller and it’ll light up a yellow trailer with a lightning bolt through it.

3: Winch power on. Green colored winch shows up

4: Bed up. I dunno, factory dump truck thing but maybe hook up something not latched/closed/pinned with the car on the back and it’ll light up red.

5: Fuel filter heat on.

6: Hitch deflated symbol. Hitch has no air it lights up.

7: Trailer suspension dumped. Trailer air suspension dash switch dumped and it’ll light up.

 

Now you have to tear out your glovebox and get to the harness bundle back there. This has the power, ground, and V-CAN datalink for your brake controller. It is straight up V-CAN so it won’t be affected with the funny business in your green 2017 diagnostic plug. To get brake switch signal will be later. That one ain’t so easy. Also with that harness are two plugs for two aux air transducers. Plug a transducer in and hook an air line to it and it will show it as a gauge on your flat panel monitor. Thinkin air hitch pressure and something else. Usually it is front air suspension but we didn’t do that. So it is open.

 

For accessory air dash switches: The two spares just go to the solenoids and end there. Nothing much to do. The Trailer suspension dump is one of the black lines coiled up at the end of your frame. The trailer tow hook is the other one. The trailer tow hook is the one that is going to be the air hitch dump line. The air hitch fill line you’ll need to run a 3/8 purple line back to the air dryer accessory manifold.

 

For accessory electrical dash switches:

1: Chicklet #2 is your customer installed floodlamps. You’ll find the “spark plugs” for these under the LH and RH side of the sleeper. The harness that hooks to them should be in the box of trailer cord and owners manual and stuff. This should be what powers back of sleeper lights.

2: C/I mid frame turn signals. You’ll have to go fishing in the LH rail for these somewhere around junction box area. They’ll probably be on a harness marked snowplow. These were the turn signals for the side of the bed.

3: “Aux” lights. This is for panel lights along bottom of cab/sleeper. The breakout should be under the LH and RH door. Dieters stuff plugs right in. Don’t buy panellights without me!! We just did the coolest ones I’ve ever seen in my entire life and I’ll get you set up. The’ll be killer with your chrome bumper and mirrors.

4: Dash power spare connections are behind your LH lower plastic cowl panel. You’ve got like 8 of them spread between BATT, IGN, and LVD options. The ground junction is right there too. Remember whatever comes from the dash harness grounds to the dash harness.

For accessory air tank: Factory they plumb it as an aux service tank and not really a tool running tank. So you need to isolate it. You'll need to pull two parallel 1/2" air lines from each of the manifolds on the dryer and plumb to this tank. You can move your filling gladhand to either this tank or keep it where it is. We can get into this tank later but you'll want to do it before the bed goes on.

 

I think that is about it. There are easily 300 zip ties between you and all this stuff. Good luck digging!

post-2747-0-26511200-1465892546_thumb.jpg

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Now to install your Jackalopee. I went around and around on this and even bought the sealed Paccar relay module to make up my own little Scrapalopee. -_- But in the end it was all kinda complicated and took harness tools. So that's out.

 

The best way is to figure out where you are going to mount it and measure the wiring distance from there to your junction box. Now go to your dealer and buy a trailer extension harness (P92-4101-1105080) (thats a 16 footer but they make 20 and 25ft ones) and cut it in half. Now untie your junction box and find the big fat round Deutsch connector just ahead of it. Unplug that and plug in your new harness end. Run that up to your Jackalopee and wire it in just like the instructions. Now wire in the other half to Jackalopee output and run that back down and plug it into the other half of the junction box Deutsch. Now both of your J560 plugs and your junction box are converted.

 

You'll need to run your trailer brake cable from the controller in the dash to the Jackalopee old school through the firewall and over and above everything. From the Jackalopee on out it'll automatically be on pin 5's inside the KW harness. That'll be fine as that wire is all 8-10 ga in the KW harness.

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Scrap--As far as drom and trailer light wiring is concerned, is there anything on the 680 that would prevent using the wiring for the light bar on the tractor (combined stop/turn) on the trailer, and the standard commercial trailer wiring for the truck (separate stop/turn)?

 

I'd though of doing this with the bed wiring harnesses for the Volvos, but it won't work as the LCM will complain that the truck's lights are out whenever you don't have a trailer. Not as screwy as dealing with electrical stuff on the smart, but not what I was after. (Speaking of which--when you have a really dead battery and hook up jumper cables, the radio turns on; if you supply power to the cigarette lighter (as with some trickle chargers) the windshield wipers move to the top of their stroke and stop; if the car is running and you supply power to the cigarette lighter, the car can't be shut off)

45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to

Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com

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The crazy thing about our trailer is that is converts a standard RV combined brake/turn into a commercial trailer output with separate brake (red lens) and turn (amber lens) on the back of the trailer. I will probably still run the Jackalopee to have a normal RV output in the rear of the truck and keep the commercial plug there as well. That way I will be compatible with anything out there. Lots of options but I am wanting to have the truck bed use separate brake and turn lights in the same pattern as the trailer and with everything scrap added, it should be able to.

 

Here is the dash. I am going to wait until it is delivered and cleaned up before I post the outside pics showing the wiring harness meatball back there. It is going to take over an hour just to cut the zip ties.

 

KW_Dash.jpg

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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Scrap, would it be easier to tie into the front mounted J560 plug, go to the Jackalopee from their and then to the rear of the truck and just re-mount the existing J560 located at the rear of the truck to the rear of the bed? That way I would have both options there in addition to the secondary yellow 3731 trailer plug for the "other stuff".

 

I was also wondering about that pin 2 (Trailer Spare 3 (unhooked at dash as we ran out of switches). Is that accessible behind the dash and can I tap into that pin with the brake controller wire? That would allow me to eliminate running over hill and dale to get back to the Jackalopee. All I would need to do is tap into that circuit for the wiring under the dash for that end. Is there a junction box for the 3731 plug under the sleeper or will I need to tap into the plug for that wire to get to the Jackalopee?

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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The chassis node stops you on the taillights. Same thing, it doesn't like it when none are there. What you'd do is the same cut in half harness to and from the Jackalopee but you would make your connection at the big Deutsch just after the junction box. Then your J560s are converted and your bed and drom wires from the junction box. You'd have to bury some taillights somewhere or put some load resistors in the taillight harness. But I tell ya no self respecting trucker ever wires his headache rack trailer style though. I've turned quite a few onto the Jackalopee for going from their junction box to headache rack. I think they bought it but I never really saw the guts of their finished product so I'm not too sure.

 

Your two J560s are spliced together just below the hosetenna bracket. It is a major pain to separate the two and get the Deutsch on the end. They are real big wire harnesses and are literally joined at the hip. Putting a HD pin on an 8 gauge wire is something only a machine can do well. You are best to buy any of the trailer related harnesses already made. Now that being said, you can make what you want work. You change my 4101 part # above to the variation with the Y on the end and cut it in half. Then you buy another J560 plug/harness assy that is the length you need to go along the rail from junction box to end of bed. Then you plug one end of the Y in just after junction box just as before and run the long cut end up to Jackalopee and back down as before. Then you plug your new J560 plug/harness into the other side of the Y at the junction box. Now your original two spliced together J560s are converted and your new single one is commercial style. 5 trailer plugs on one truck ought to keep you busy. ;) Seriously though, if you really want that setup then I'll look up the part #s.

 

Pin 2 on the ISO is only 12-14 ga so it is going to be too small for brakes. Plus all of the wiring is intact all the way up in the dash. To make this pin work all you have to do is pop a new switch in the dash and plug it in. So you probably don't want to cut this one up. When they do the factory electric brake controller prewire (yea, all models except T680/T880 have that option :rolleyes: ) they do like you suggest but take over the trailer hotline wire. They jump in at the dash and back out at the junction box. But not so lucky on yours. Gonna have to go at that section of wire old skool. :(

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Last winter, BillB and I were tossing around the idea of putting the Jackalopee under the nose of the trailer, leaving the commercial wiring on the truck alone. That way, our trailers can be moved by anyone, commercial or another rv'er with a heavy truck.

 

Would that work well here? Would it simplify the slicing, splicing and dicing?

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Rick,

 

I think that could work, but since his trailer already splits out into separate brake and turn lights, it's probably easier to get at that converter and bypass it. It would seem overkill to combine a 5-wire light setup into a 4-wire configuration, only to have a fancy converter go back to the 5-wire setup. Even though I use one for the car I tow, the 4 to 5 wire converters are less than perfect--a couple of presses on the brake pedal just right with a turn signal on, or switching turn signals too quickly, will cause the converter to get confused and wait until everything's off before signaling again. Most would never notice--the lights are only on the back of the trailer--but I can see it in the front turn signals on the car in the rearview camera. I've not lost sleep over it in my case, as the trucks lights are easily visible over and around the car.

45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to

Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com

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Nuke - I take it all back...... A92-1035-050 is the resistor harness. Click it in between chassis harness and taillamp harness and you can do whatever you want with the taillamps. It is brand new so it probably has a few week lead time.

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Whew........ I imagine a Nuke-Sub has fewer electrical dooo-hickies.......

 

I remember "Grumps" complaining about the darn low-air-pressure arm with a bright RED flag that dropped out of the sun visor area in front of the drivers windshield that had huge letters that spelled "LOW AIR PRESSURE!!!" when ever the air system pressure dropped below 70 PSI........simple small air cylinder that held the metal arm and flag up out of the windshield view as long as the pressure was above 70 PSI......no electrical required.........

 

"Grumps" would get his famous scowl and say " What next......a powered windshield wiper for the passengers side of the windshield......what the heck do I pay a driver to do.......just steer the truck and not pay attention to the rest of the rig!!!"

 

Seems like it might be nice to keep a riding electrical-engineer crew member on board the truck just to keep the "systems" in "tune".........

 

Drive on..........(darn that kid that unplugged my FIVE......trailer plugs)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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Dolly, Will only have three trailer plugs. :)

 

One commercial style for the trailer (easy plug in adapter if I need to move another trailer), The accessory plug (3731 as noted above) plus the camera plug. Well, I will also have a 30 amp, 120 twist lock to run the trailer with if required but that will be later

 

Old Blue did make into Kilgore, TX though. Had dinner with Ed and Teresa last night and looked over their truck. It's going to be a nice one.

 

KW%20at%20Herrin.jpg

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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Dolly, Will only have three trailer plugs. :)

 

One commercial style for the trailer (easy plug in adapter if I need to move another trailer), The accessory plug (3731 as noted above) plus the camera plug. Well, I will also have a 30 amp, 120 twist lock to run the trailer with if required but that will be later

 

Old Blue did make into Kilgore, TX though. Had dinner with Ed and Teresa last night and looked over their truck. It's going to be a nice one.

 

KW%20at%20Herrin.jpg

Wow!XXX

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Ya know it don't matter how many plugs on the back of a KW ........They are classy rigs....That truck is almost too good looking to drive

 

The day Grumps pulled the 54 KW over onto the soft shoulder to dodge the bug-eyed-Sprite that was rounding the corner and the front driver broke lose and the rear driver hopped over it as we rolled over into the ditch and I followed the passenger side windshield out the the big chrome Goddess radiator cap I was amazed that the old KW was carried through the wreck without letting the load of logs shear the cab off.......that was one tough and classy truck.......

 

Three weeks later the old KW was good as new and she hauled logs for six more years.........

 

KW quality is hard to beat.

 

Drive on...........(stay off the soft........shoulders)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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So I wasn't going to put the 'Scrapaloppee' up because it was supposed to be an easy project that turned out to be not so easy. You guys will probably find it interesting though and maybe it'll spark some ideas, so this is it. I built my first one out of a trailer harness when the little sealed relay boxes came out a few years ago and it was so much crimping suckage that I swore I'd never do it again. Well some more new stuff came out so I had to try a 4 relay one this time.

 

First, go the the resource guide and pull out the schematic: http://www.hhrvresource.com/sites/default/files/Images/fourrelay.jpg Next swap the 85's and 86's on the paper sheet. Not that is is wrong, it just isn't how KW does relays so it wigs me out.

 

Next go buy a P92-5921-900SN0P2 harness layer. This is the prebuilt relay box that is all sealed up and has four micro relays in it. All the 85's are spliced together and all the 86's are spliced together. The 30's are the pins you see sticking out and everything else is separated but you have to dig for it.

 

20160624_223834_zps6dd9dwmz.jpg

 

Now you take your nice new harness and fillet most all of it open to get its guts out of the tape. Just don't cut any wires. Look a the box with the writing on the relays upside down to you. Now take the top two relays out (they are relays 3&4 going left to right). Then take your Volkswagen pin tool and remove the 87 pins on both those relays. Noting the pin 30 terminals above, take the one that comes from relay 1 and put it in the relay 3 cavity 87 that you just removed. Repeat for 30 of relay 2 looping to 87 of relay 4. They are the correct wire terminals for the block and click right in. Now you are left with the two pin 30 ends for relay 3&4. These are your LH and RH stop.turn outputs. Tag the ends.

 

Extra credit: Remove a square of four extra cavity plug seals in the bottom of the relay box. Loop the relay 3&4 pin 30 ends into two of those cavities. Take some extra wire with the correct terminals already crimped on the end of it when you are almost done with the project and insert it across from these. Then put in two fuses. Now trailer output is fused.

 

Now remove the 87a pins from the cavity of relays 3&4. Pull those wires completely out of the top half of your harness and as far out of your way as you can and then cut them as long as you possibly can. Then take the 86 pins out of relay 3&4 and move to the 87a of relay 3&4 that you just removed earlier. The factory splice takes care of the dirty work and you just completed the "brake signal in" circuit. Tag the end.

 

Now take the two wires you cut in the previous step and insert them into relay 3 86 and relay 4 86. Your unit should be full now. and you can build the "LH turn in" and "RH turn in" by tying together 3 wires for each one. (R1-87a + R2-87 + R3-86 = LH Turn input) (R1-87 + R2-87a + R4-86 = RH Turn input)

 

Now add a ground wire that splices input connector to the factory ground splice at the relay box and back out to the output connector.

 

Trim it all up to the size you want, put your end connectors/ring terminals on, put it in some loom and you've got a light converter. All you did was swap terminals around and didn't have to crimp a thing except your interface ends. It is small gauge stuff, however, so it is really only going to be good for an LED trailer or a headache rack or drom or something. Basically if you are like Georgia Hybrid's truck where your junction box is trailer style but your drom should match your taillights this would do that. For all your trailers and brake controllers and charging and flashing marker lights and all that stuff you'd still get a Jackalopee.

 

I made mine long as that was basically donor harness length, plus it puts the relay box somewhere far away from the sleeper so you don't have to hear it clicking while your head is on the pillow. Mine:

 

20160625_024527_zpssg9ghxbr.jpg

 

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Scrap, you have too much fun.... :)

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
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OK Scrap, I think all of the connections on a KW are AMP/Tyco style so do you have any good suggestions on a set of terminal tools that will hold up over time? I will also need a source for terminals and the connectors themselves as well as a good crimp tool for those itty bitty little wires. If I wanted to add a normal RV plug with backup lights on the center pin instead of charge line, were would be the best place to pick up the backup light wire?

 

It is not in the relay box but will be in the Auxiliary Harness (ISO 3731) and at the rear of the truck. I could pick up that and use as a signal wire on a relay to avoid pulling too much from the truck circuit. I will have to cut off the two sockets at the rear of the truck and replace them with two wired sockets because of the way the bed is being built so it wouldn't be too hard to pick it up there by using a ring terminal 3731 socket and then passing that back into the Jackalopee.

 

That is just my old school way of thinking though. I'm sure you have a more "gee whiz" way of getting backup lights that will be a lot simpler and that will take a fraction of the time. One good thing about all of this, I am learning a LOT about modern diesel trucks.

 

D

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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Y'all don't even want to see my desk..... :rolleyes:

 

That's the terminal tool question I had in the tool thread. All I know is my uber expensive Tyco kit, but it has pinned a lot of trucks in 5 years. I keep hearing that 90's/2000's VW's use the same stuff so whatever tool you use for that should work too. Maybe this one?

 

https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-95839-23-Piece-Universal-Terminal/dp/B00LB7PMAE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51mXA8blaiL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=8134RYSRE563DNPXEMRQ

 

You really don't need the Tyco crimper as 680 harnesses are built on layers. So if you go to add an option you buy that layer and put it in. All the wires are the right lengths, labels, colors, and crimped for you and you just put pins in cavities. At least that is the plan going in....

 

The body side, however, doesn't really work that way and is left as Deutsch and Packard for a different set of folks. First, I believe the trailer harnesses are now all QCS. So (after disconnecting batteries) you take the plastic flange plug off and now your plug fits through a hole. You don't need a slotted hole anymore. Don't cut them!

 

http://www.phillipsind.com/video/front/play/?videoId=16

 

Honestly if I was setting up a dedicated truck & trailer I'd use a Sta-Dry trailer cord with a QCS truck. But I think it is backwards from what RV's do (it stays on the trailer side?) so I'd have to defer to the RV experts on trailer cables and coilcords.

 

http://www.phillipsind.com/product/683.html

 

The 3731 actually only looks like a trailer harness at the plug end. It looks like a normal little truck harness with grey Packard connectors in the frame. Since you have the logger kit you already have a Y harness near your junction box that sends it front and rear. You can either buy another Y harness and plug a 3731 extension harness into that, or if you aren't going to use one of the 3731's then you can plug an extension into it's Y. So now all your 3731 signals are available somewhere else. You grab the backup light wire and inject it into the Jackalopee. I guess I'm kind of envisioning the Jackalopee mounted inside the drom. If you are going to relay the 3731's then you'd probably mount something like the Cooper RTMR's or the like right next to it. Your 3731 extension harness terminals will click right into it. You'd power the RTMR's bus bar from the 2nd MIDI in your winch wiring junction.

 

So anyways I've totally lost track of what you want for trailer plugs and/or harness ends where. So list out your final answer on that and I'll find harnessing that works. Don't worry if it is possible or not - it's all possible..... :ph34r:

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Scrap, was planning on "insetting" the front gladhands, the 3731 plug and the J560 plug into a recessed area in the deck in front of the drom box. Was also going to rotate it 90 degrees and then use them if I ever need to trouble shoot and can't back up to the trailer but can get sideways to it. By doing that, I can get an extension harness and plug it in there to go to the Jackalopee.That will allow me to pick up the backup light signal there. I might need to modify the Jackalopee box to allow two large cables in and out instead of what is there but that way I get a regular RV plug out as well as the "revised" J560 that I will be sing on my trailer.

 

As far as the cable goes, I also have a nose box for the cable going to the Voyager camera system now. I was planning on building a larger nose box and using regular cables with plugs on each end to hook up the trailer and have ring terminal sockets to make things easy to fix.

 

Will look into some new tools as well as it looks like I will be having some fun playing with the trailer and the truck when it comes back home.

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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