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Happy Wanderer

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Washington
  • Interests
    hiking, photography, kayaking, bicycling, guitar

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  1. Epilogue - I had a mobile service company come out. Out of 9 outlets in my trailer, six were broken! Most were broken from very sloppy installation, but the way it was wired, too many wires trying to connect to the back of the outlets, and some wires came loose. The company replaced six outlets with better quality ones for about $680. Luckily, I have an extended warranty and only had to pay $180. Thanks, everyone, for your advice. It is much appreciated!
  2. Ray, that's interesting. Thanks for the reply. I have a 25' travel trailer, not nearly as sophisticated as your rig. Although, it's possible that there's a hidden outlet, it's not likely. I just tested both the line and the load terminals on the back of the outlet, and they are both getting 120 v. So, if I interpret that correctly, the outlet itself is functioning properly. Cancel trip to Home Depot. All of my outlets have a sticker that says GFCI protected outlet, so it seems they should all be on the same circuit, since only one has the test/reset buttons.
  3. Kirk, I pushed the test button, and power did indeed cut off from the two outlets that were working. On pushing reset, the two kitchen outlets worked again, but the other six are still not. I checked the screws on the back of the outlets, and they are all tight. Is it possible that the outlet is faulty even though it still as power? If it's possible that it could be faulty, then my next move would be to get a new gfci outlet from Home Depot? What do you think?
  4. Tested all eight outlets. Only the two kitchen outlets are working with 120v to them. The others are zero, including the one outside. Something weird.... I flipped the main breaker, and when I turned it back on, the outlets in the entertainment center started working. As soon as I plugged something into the front bedroom outlet, they stopped working again. So, I flipped the main breaker off and on once more, and nothing. I have a 30amp system. Microwave, fridge, and water heater working. Not the TV, because it's plugged into a non-working outlet. Here's a pic of my panel.
  5. Update: Two of the seven outlets are now working, including the gfci outlet that has the test/reset.
  6. I woke up this morning to none of my 110v outlets working. Everything else works, so figured it was a gfci issue. Tested and reset the gfci several times over the course of troubleshooting. First, I went out to the terminal to make sure I was getting shore power. My surge protector verified 121 volts coming through. Next, checked all the breakers and fuses, tripping each one and pulling the fuses to visually check. All intact. I'm thinking the gfci outlet has failed, but how do I know for sure? The green light is still on, after I test and reset it.
  7. GeorgiaHybrid, thanks for the reply. So you installed the stained glass only with no other glass or acrylic? Has the came turned white or other color? Did you use butyl tape or silicone to seal it?
  8. That's a good point, Big Rick. I would think some kind of cushioning on the bottom would be prudent. I have the stained glass piece, and I want to replace the "bathroom" glass that came with the trailer. I think adhering a piece of glass to the outside of it with caulking along the edge would go a long way in stabilizing it. Just wondering if anyone has done this. I saw some posts about it on the Escapees Facebook page (I think) a few weeks ago, but I can't find it now.
  9. I've done a search and come up empty on installing a stained glass window in the RV door. I've heard that some people add a piece of glass, acrylic, or lucite to the outside to protect the stained glass from the weather. Which is best, and what do you use for spacers between the two sheets of glass so the came doesn't get damaged or scratch the other sheet of glass. And, is there room for both pieces? I know I need some butyl tape, but could use some advice.
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