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D&J

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About D&J

  • Birthday 08/08/1950

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    90175
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Home Base Republican City Neb
  • Interests
    RVing, Fishing, Workamping and enjoying retired life in an RV

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  1. This is our site in Coyote Ranch #226, this is our 3rd year here and plan on a few more. They only rent by the month 1st to 1st, the site are 60x80 and not all are RV friendly but they will supply 50 amp extension cords along with sewer hoses to but we don't need because we have our own. It's a gated community but we have a opener so we don't need to use the keyed pad entry
  2. We stayed at Kaibab Camper Village, would not call it a resort but it was fine for the few days we were there. Everything else is dry camping in the area. Denny
  3. For years we used our locals through Dish Network because at our homebase we just couldn't get them until a couple of years ago when I started to experiment with different styles of DIY antennas. I think I built at least 5 before I was ready to give up and continue paying $12 a month but then I tried it one last time. Using just part of one of the antenna's I tried and that was two 14" pieces of #6 copper wire and a short piece of vinyl fence I had laying around. I formed a loop one each end of the wire the size of the screw I was using to attach it to the vinyl. I attached the coax shield to one wire and the copper core to the other without a matching transformer (tried one and it killed the signal) and ran it into the house through a splitter and run two TVs off it. The one at the house is on a piece of 1" rigid conduit that is setup so it can be turned and locked into place because it is directional but it can receive a signal from the front or back. The one on the trailer is mounted on the existing antenna and it works way better than the Winegard. At home I'm pulling signals from 65 miles without any problems and it's the only one we are using in the trailer. If you have to straighten the wire clamp one end and chuck the other one into a drill and slowly twist it. Denny
  4. One other thing to check is the ground, remove the igniter and clean the area where it's screwed to the bracket. In the past I would just run a ground wire to the control panel. Denny
  5. Use a stud finder or take one of your vent trims down and locate a roof truss and get a measurement to the edge of the vent and then go on the roof and use the measurement to find a truss, after you find one just to measure to find the rest. Denny
  6. I did some more digging and my Power Dynamics PD9160ALV converter goes into a charge mode every 3 weeks if batteries are in storage mode like ours are now so I should be good to go. The only thing I have left to do is install a switch so I can turn off to he DC to DC charger if I needed to, this is a 5th wheel so it's not controlled by the trucks ignition switch. On Fords the 12V from the truck is not energized when the truck is off so I ran a wire from the incoming 12V to the ignition port to turn it on when truck is running. Denny
  7. This is off my inverter with the refrigerator running balanced out, the freezer draws about 10 watts more. I have everything installed and working and have done a few load tests and it all works great, even better than expected. The only question I have is will it hurt to leave the batteries hooked up after the converter charges them and drops off to 13.6 volts (100% charge) over a long period when we are sitting for the winter in AZ. The way I understand it the converter stops charging when it drops back off to 13.6 volts. Denny
  8. Yes the other outlets are feed off the GFCI that has gone bad, make sure that the breaker feeding the GFCI is on because they won't reset without power. Denny
  9. My refrigerator draws 56 Watts after it starts up and the freezer just a little more. I've keep my Optima AGM batteries up with the truck for years but my 8 year AGMs are slowly failing and aren't up to the job anymore so I'm looking at changing over to lithium. One of my old Optima batteries will used to start my 5K generator for a starting battery, the old one died and the other will go to my small boat. Denny
  10. My plans so far is a Renogy 12v 20 amp DC to DC charger, my truck has a 30 amp fused circuit going to the trailer. I just need it to keep batteries up when traveling, we run a residential frig and small freezer. The converter is a Progressive Dynamics 60 amp PF9160ALV with two LiTime 100AH Mini batteries. Does this sound like a good setup. Denny
  11. What amperage converter will I need for two or three 100ah batteries. Same with a DC to DC charger for 12v from the truck. Denny
  12. You mean the service person you had look at it never when on the roof and checked the condenser coil, never call him again. The very first thing that should be checked is the condenser. The cover has to be removed because the way the air flows in the sides and out the back so you can't see if the coil is plugged. 18 to 20 differential is perfect. Denny
  13. Like I said it's all depends of your skill level to do it yourself. If you take it to a dealership I'm sure it would totaled. The repair I did on mine would have been 3K at the Hitchhiker service center but I did it for under $200 in materials. Where to start is to tear it apart until all the rot is gone, mine also didn't start at the roof so I didn't have to tear it up to high. I also have a building to house it in. Also keep in mind how it was built and how your going to rebuild it. Denny
  14. Photo of new beam. If you look close you can see to the inside of the trailer after all the rot was cleaned out.
  15. Yes the short answer is yes it can be repaired depending on your skill level but very expensive if you have someone else do it. This is a photo of our right front side of our 5th wheel trailer after I cleaned all the rot out. There was a support beam there originally that was totally rotted away. I made a new one and with a lot of screws, glue and time you can't tell it's been fixed unless you go in the closet and see where I replaced some of the paneling that was rotted away. Denny
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