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5th-Wheel Hitch or Gooseneck ?


RV-Manni

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Good morning

 

I am cosidering to buy a 40ft 5th Wheel (GVWR 16000 lbs). My truck is a 2015 Ford F-350 Dually, long bed with original Ford hitch prep.

Now for a RV-Greenhorn like me, there is the question either to go for a regular 5th-wheel hitch like a

CURT Q24 5th Wheel Hitch or better to go for the Andersen Aluminum Ultimate Connection Gooseneck.

 

Does anyone can tell his experiences. I'm grateful for any helpful hints.

Thank you

 

Manni

Manni

________________________________

2016 Heartland Bighorn 3750 FL

2015 Ford F-350 SD Dually 4x4

Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection 2

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IIRC, unless the trailer was designed as a gooseneck, converting a 5er hitch to a goose can put additional stress on the 5er's frame. I have no personal experience with this, just remember something I read.

 

This guy says doing it is not issue; http://daily-blog.rv-boondocking-the-good-life.com/2010/04/stirring-up-fifth-wheel-to-gooseneck.html

 

Couple folks here say they will never do it and others who say they have done it; http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=28607.0

 

Looks like no definitive answers.

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In order to use the Anderson hitch your truck will need to have a typical goose-neck hitch installed first. My pickup has a B & W turn over ball goose-neck installed which I use with B & W's Companion hitch. It works well and I like being able to remove the Companion and having full access to the trucks bed. Being able to haul a horse or other goose neck outfitted trailer is also a plus. That being said I did not learn of the Anderson hitch until last year and must admit I am fascinated by the simplicity of the Anderson design that appears to remove the issue of increasing the fulcrum and hence related stress on the typical 5th wheel frame. If I were to hitch up today I think I would give the Anderson a whirl. Oh yea, personally I do not consider the Anderson hitch similar in any way to the typical goose-neck adapters I have seen.

Later,

J

PS Don't think I would ever go back to a fixed hitch in bed.

2012 Landmark, San Antonio

2013 Silverado CC, 3500HD, Duramax, DRW, 4x4

Backup, side and hitch cameras, Tireminder TPMS

 

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I think that New Fords come with the pucks installed into the bed to accomodate the Reese 5th wheel hitch. There are plenty used ones available for a really good price if you look and are patient. That being said if you want the ability to tow with the 5th wheel hitch and the gooseneck, Reese makes the GN plate that attaches the same way as the 5th hitch.

I like the Reese Elite/Signature hitch and have been towing with it for a while. Leaves my bed clear with not towing.

Marcel

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The Anderson doesn't apply the excessive lever arm that a "farm type" gooseneck adapter does. But I'm not sure how they modify the pinbox to a ball socket.

Another member here - RV - (who you can find on the financial forum has recently installed on and can probably better answer that question.

Ray & Deb - Shelbi the Aussie & Lexington the cat
2004 Volvo 630 500HP ISX "Bertha D" - 10 Speed-MaxBrake -ET hitch.SOLD
2009 Designer 35RLSA SOLD
Fulltiming since '07 - stopped 2016

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I am a contractor working in fabrication and welding. Understanding the stresses added to the 5th wheel when using a GN adapter, I would never do it. The fronts of those trailers arent designed for that stress. Just compare them to a gooseneck trailer, check out those big gussets in the front that reduce those stresses. They are there because they are needed and they work.

Marcel

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HI Manni,

I have one of the Anderson hitches you are looking at and it keeps the RV pin at the same height and does not add a lever to the pin box like a gooseneck extension does. We love ours and as stated you do have to have a gooseneck ball hitch installed first. A piece of advice. Do not let anyone because of cheaper price weld your gooseneck or any other hitch type to your frame. Have the hitch professionally installed and bolted to the frame of your truck. Do call Andersen up as I did for questions. They are nice folks and for that size and weight make sure to check with them first on the phone.

Welcome to the Escapees forums. No matter the screw up or mistake in RVing, someone here hashad to learn the hard way, learned it, and can pass along how to learn the easy way.

 

Lots of great folks here, we all look forward to your posts and questions, and eventually your helping some others out too.

RV/Derek
http://www.rvroadie.com Email on the bottom of my website page.
Retired AF 1971-1998


When you see a worthy man, endeavor to emulate him. When you see an unworthy man, look inside yourself. - Confucius

 

“Those who can make you believe absurdities, can make you commit atrocities.” ... Voltaire

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Manni, in our opinion and it from our experience we like a 5th wheel hitch better than a gooseneck hitch. Our trailer originally came with a gooseneck hitch and we had the B&W turnover ball setup on our dually. We found that it was difficult to get the hitch directly over the ball. Typically we over shot and after getting out of the truck and seeing the issue, had to get back in and move the truck back forward. Then the truck would roll a little bit after putting it in park, so then we had to set the ebrake which meant we had to remember to unset it.

 

Also when we installed a aux. fuel tank and a storage box in the truck bed, we then could not see the ball to get it lined up. Now the Anderson hitch with the ball raised would help that out, but I see from the video that they still had a camera mounted looking at the hitch.

 

We changed our trailer to a 5th wheel and added the companion hitch to the B&W hitch and loved it. Hook ups were faster and we do not need safety chains which were a pain to hook up with a trailer in the way. Now with the HDT we have an air ride 5th wheel hitch which gives a much smoother ride for the trailer.

 

Also if you go with the Anderson hitch, be sure to check how quickly you can change it back to a 5th wheel pin in case you break down and someone else has to pull your trailer.

Dave

2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch
2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler
Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you!

 

Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/

for much more info on HDT's.

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Dave,

I keep a tool set in the truck under the seat with the Andersen hitch guide to remember the torque values. I also have the socket needed for the hitch and the screwdriver to dismount the locking handle and cable. I would guess that I could remove the pin adapter in about ten minutes or less. I use a 1/4" allen socket and have the 1/4" Allen wrench, 5/16" socket for self-tapping screws, One 15/16" Box End and one 15/16" Socket, 1/2" drive Torque Wrench, 5/8" socket and box wrench. Here is the Manual in PDF file for install and removal with torque values: http://www.andersenhitches.com/uploads/Ultimate%20GN%20Manual%20(3220,%203221,%203225)%208-2015%20(lo-res).pdf

 

To remove it I just need to loosen the 4 set screws with the 1/4" socket, then remove the two locking pins with the 5/8" socket and box wrench. I keep it all in a Craftsman 13" canvas small tool bag. I have five matching sets of everything in Craftsman, and various brands for another several sets of Snap on, so have a full set of what might be needed in all three of our vehicles, and a house set.

 

There is really nothing to it. I only need the torque wrench for re-installing it. No mechanical skills needed except for setting and using a torque wrench. Mine is a decent one that reads 50 foot pounds I checked against a Snap on calibrated wrench a mechanic buddy uses for a living and it is within a couple of ounces. Harbor Freight $9.99 on sale. The Allen socket set is also Harbor freight.

 

I have to tell you guys that I was the biggest skeptic until I saw it and now used it. For folks with a gooseneck pin already installed these are a big money saver. For folks not full timing, and want their bed clear when not using the hitch, it is easy enough to remove at a campsite for only a two or three day stay. I'd chain it to the rig or store it in the basement, as it IS very light and an easy steal.

Here is the last thing, Hitching up is easier than with a regular 5th wheel hitch, and much easier than trying to see the gooseneck ball down at bed level. You still can't see the pin as clearly with a regular hitch as the hitch hides it thus they are designed with the wide guide so you do not have to get it perfect, the pin will slide over a half inch or so. As with every hitch it took me a couple of times to work it out for my self but the ball is above the bed, and perfectly visible as is the adapter and the hole it goes in. No need to get out to get a gentle perfect hitch as you can quickly get the hitch and ball aligned because it is easy to see both.

 

Here is a 2 minute video shot while towing with it shot through the rear window. That is why it is so easy to hitch up with. It is all visible out the rear window to get right under it. It's that easy to see while backing under it to hitch too! The end of the video shows a 12 year old girl removing the hitch from the bed.

 

Here is another 2.5 minute video where a user shows it hitched up and in the bed better.

 

This is a whole other animal than the old frame stressing pipe adapters.

 

To remove the hitch adapter only takes loosening the four set screws with the 1/4" Allen socket, and then removing the two locking pins with the 5/8" socket and box wrench. So removing the pin adapter could be done in under 5 minutes if taking your time. Using an 18 volt impact driver, and acting like a race car pit crew would take under a minute to remove it. Four allens loosened, two nuts loosened and the bolts pulled out.

RV/Derek
http://www.rvroadie.com Email on the bottom of my website page.
Retired AF 1971-1998


When you see a worthy man, endeavor to emulate him. When you see an unworthy man, look inside yourself. - Confucius

 

“Those who can make you believe absurdities, can make you commit atrocities.” ... Voltaire

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We also have/use the Andersen Ultimate and are very happy with it. I just want to clarify, as others have inferred, the Andersen Ultimate is NOT a gooseneck hitch (though one model is anchored to the truck with a gooseneck ball installed in the truck bed). The stress points for the trailer are essentially in the same places as with a conventional 5th wheel hitch. The main advantage for me is weight - 150 - 250# less than most conventional 5th wheel hitches and I can remove or reinstall it by myself in just a couple of minutes.

 

Rob

2012 F350 CC LB DRW 6.7
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes, solar, DP windows
Full-time since 8/2015

 

StatesVisited20210913_small.jpg

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I totally agree with the idea that using a goose box or ranch hitch adapter is a bad idea. I work at a nation wide Rv dealership in service. First off,when a person is attempting to get a particularly tight nut off a bolt often a cheater bar is used. The whole reason for that is using leverage, if you think of it as a cheater bar hooked onto the end of your fifth wheel connected to your truck with a lot of torque you have a large cheater bar attached your expensive RV.

Most of the adapters are bolted onto the existing pin box, adding yet another point of potential failure. There is one that actually replaces the pin box.

Curt, Reese and B&W all make quality hitches with both Ford and Ram puck system adapters. For the short bed fans, there is a picture frame with the puck adapters as part of the frame. Both Reese and Curt slider hitches then fit into the frame just as if it were being pinned into industry standard rails. Be very careful using the PullRite slider in these "picture frames". According to pull Rite there are some particular measurements that must be made regarding bed length to avoid possibly hitting the tail gate on Rams. Hope that helps. I have seen some pretty scary installs done that have come to me from some not too reputable shops.

For instance....NO GOOSENECK ADAPTER SHOULD EVER BE PUT ON A PIN BOX WITH MOVING PARTS SUCH AS THE MORYDE OR AIR RIDE PINS BOX. I have seen to catastrophic failures in my shop. Both folks are well aware of the meaning of Grace

2015 Cardinal 3850RL

F350 KingRanch using B&W Companion Hitch

 

And my funny little dog

DOVES Member

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I was going to get the Anderson set up but went with a B&W hitch instead. I did a lot of reading on it and the B&W seemed to be the best non air ride hitch I could buy. So I would go with the 5th wheel hook up vs the gooseneck one. There is a reason that they choose that style of hitch.

2015 Ram 3500 RC DRW CTD AISIN 410 rear

2016 Mobile Suites 38RSB3

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I was going to get the Anderson set up but went with a B&W hitch instead. I did a lot of reading on it and the B&W seemed to be the best non air ride hitch I could buy. So I would go with the 5th wheel hook up vs the gooseneck one. There is a reason that they choose that style of hitch.

 

Once again - the Andersen is NOT a gooseneck hitch. A gooseneck hitch has the ball on the floor of the bed and puts increased levered lateral (torsion) forces on the pin box. The Andersen elevates the ball to the level of the kingpin. Therefore, the torsion forces on the pin box are the same as with a standard fifth wheel hitch. I agree, however, that the B&W is an excellent hitch and many people are extremely satisfied with them.

 

Rob

2012 F350 CC LB DRW 6.7
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes, solar, DP windows
Full-time since 8/2015

 

StatesVisited20210913_small.jpg

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I have a 15,000 lb 40 foot fifth wheel pulled by a 2015 F-359 dually. I use the 32lb aluminum ultimate with the gooseneck adapter. Pulls GREAT and I can get the hitch out by myself in just a few minutes if I am going to haul something.

 

The Arctic Fox dealer told me they have a lot of people using them with very good experiences.

Dave and Lana Hasper

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For the people using the Ultimate Anderson Alluminum gooseneck hitch, is it nesessary to have a pinbox that cushions the "bucking and chucking" I hear so much about? Like a Mor/Ryde pinbox? According to the Anderson video if I understood it correctly, the fact that the entire piece is one welded unit the end play that is in a 5th wheel hitch is eliminated. Does that mean I can use the stock factory pinbox and not experience the "bucking and chucking"? Thanks for your input for this Escapees and soon to be fulltiming newbe!

Duane

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The Andersen system eliminates play in the hitch and the associated noises. Only an "air ride" type hitch or a dampened pin box can reduce or eliminate how a heavy trailer can affect the truck - especially fore-and-aft forces on rough road surfaces. You can certainly use the stock (rigid) pin box with the Andersen without any problems. In light of the shape some of our wonderful roads are in, I elected to install a Demco Glide Ride pin box to smooth things out even more. It makes the ride much more comfortable and, I'm confident, reduces the stress on the front of the trailer frame and the truck bed/frame. I was happy with the Andersen... I'm even happier with the Andersen/Glide Ride combo.

 

Rob

2012 F350 CC LB DRW 6.7
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes, solar, DP windows
Full-time since 8/2015

 

StatesVisited20210913_small.jpg

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I am sorry. I was not reading carefully. I have the Moyr/ride pin box and that in combination with the Andersen is what I find so exceptional. It is interesting that Andersen says you do not need them but in their installation videos they show a fifth wheel with a Moyr/ride Dave

Dave and Lana Hasper

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I would suggest staying with the Fifth Wheel hitch. It spreads the weight evenly across the bed plate and allows for easy setup and take down when you want to use the truck bed. I suggest considering the PullRite OEM hitch as another option. The easiest I've found to mount on factory OEM setup.

 

post-54731-0-49051100-1457977955_thumb.png

We're not here for a LONG TIME, we're here for a GOOD TIME! HOOH! :rolleyes:

'16 F350 DRW PSD CCLB, LKR Fx4, WH Platinum Tri, 4.3LSD, MR, PullRite OE 25K 5th, High CT, EB Heater, Tailgate Step, Recon RL's, Air Lift System, TruXcedo Lopro, DZ TG Assist, KC Lights, Pop&Lock TG, Cable Lock,'16 Fuzion 420 17.5k

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I would suggest staying with the Fifth Wheel hitch. It spreads the weight evenly across the bed plate and allows for easy setup and take down when you want to use the truck bed. I suggest considering the PullRite OEM hitch as another option. The easiest I've found to mount on factory OEM setup.

 

attachicon.gifPullRite Ford OE.png

 

The Andersen systems either mount to the standard rail systems or to a turnover ball system - both of which distribute the load to the frame rather than the truck bed. At 32 lbs (aluminum ball mount) or 40 lbs (steel rail mount), what could be easier to remove and replace when you need to use the bed?

 

Rob

2012 F350 CC LB DRW 6.7
2020 Solitude 310GK-R, MORryde IS, disc brakes, solar, DP windows
Full-time since 8/2015

 

StatesVisited20210913_small.jpg

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I guess it is all about how it attaches to the OEM frame setup. This one has 4, 1/4 turn levers that lock together and can be removed in less than 5 minutes. Time & weight are both key areas of ease of use . .

We're not here for a LONG TIME, we're here for a GOOD TIME! HOOH! :rolleyes:

'16 F350 DRW PSD CCLB, LKR Fx4, WH Platinum Tri, 4.3LSD, MR, PullRite OE 25K 5th, High CT, EB Heater, Tailgate Step, Recon RL's, Air Lift System, TruXcedo Lopro, DZ TG Assist, KC Lights, Pop&Lock TG, Cable Lock,'16 Fuzion 420 17.5k

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Lonewolf the Pullrite weighs about 6x as much as the Andersen and costs twice as much. Show me any review indicating it is a superior product. That type of hitch is a dinosaur. The Anderson uses Ford OEM attachment.

Dave and Lana Hasper

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