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Exile

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    West of Houston
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  1. Thank you. Talked to uncle’s mechanic buddy, and he said because the gasket has no visible defects, probably a cracked head, so get a reman head. I looked closer, and also saw a valve with a chunk missing from the middle. He told me to check liner protrusion also. i don’t expect to put a lot of miles on it, so i will get the injectors tested and slap a reman head on it. will price out and think hard about rolling in new bearings. i will try to find that middle ground between going overboard and being stupidly cheap. my shop rates are: one 300$ folding engine hoist one 3/4” 40” breaker bar one 30” 1/2” breaker bar 1/2” and 3/4” drive 5/8” 12 pt impact sockets 16 mm socket 22 mm bolt (cam gear tool) 3/8 milwaukee impact so far, about 700$ in tools invested - labor cost zero still need to get liner tool and build a gear lash tool for cam gear.
  2. Found bubbles in radiator this fall - well, actually more of a boil of gas than bubbles pulled it into my shop, tested compressor cooler, found no water in oil, and figured it’s the head. Series 60 detroit - found manual online and got the head out. Found several head bolts with water and rust on them, so pretty sure it’s not injector cups. now i’m kinda stumped, to get it checked, complete refurbish or swap it out? lots of things can be wrong with it- warped, cracked, bad cups, bad valve seats, bad valves i know the cam bearings need replaced. Seems like a waste to put it back in only to have a cup fail in a year or two, but a replacement head means setting the backlash, and i’m not sure what else. Cam, rollers, everything else looks ok by eye, i figure on having cam checked. last oil analysis said 73 ppm iron in oil, and flagged it- not sure if from head or another issue, some minor pitting on exhaust cam rollers saw that liner protrusion issues can cause blown gaskets, so will need check that also. hour meter and ecm says 2,000 something hours, not sure i believe it. Any suggestions as to how you recommend i blow, i mean spend my money?
  3. You were exactly right. I always hesitate to go there because their prices are sometimes high, but they had a kit for the truck and it was cheap. Maybe that’s why no one else carries it.
  4. Anyone know how to find an oring kit for my 98 379 a/c system? Or if they are some standard size(s)? i see kits from 27-127$, but not clear to me if they will contain the right sizes. Still damn hot in TX, even though snowed back home in Neb.
  5. Exile

    HDT with HD Trailer

    Drop a container onto a tandem gooseneck flatbed. Pick a length, chop the container to fit. Cut big holes in it, easy to weld reinforcements. Cheap and everywhere. Sell it as a tiny home when you’re sick of it. Low enough to mount a/c on the top.
  6. Thank you all for your help, it worked my last trip, I haven’t figured exactly what it was, either operator error or a bad park brake switch. Resource for older detroits: Fitzgerald manuals https://www.fitzgeraldgliderkits.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/owners-manual.pdf it says among other things, cruise must be turned on to work, if already on, must be turned off first. Also found detroit troubleshooting guide at http://www.detroitmanuals.info/ddec-singleecm-troubleshooting/400A07.html Someone on truckers forum suggested park brake switch, even if not in troubleshooting guide, so I disconnected that too. Will try it again with switch reconnected. Now, onto fixing a/c.
  7. And it goes on. . . local Peterbilt guys say they can’t change settings on a series 60, maybe Vanguard can. They claim they can, so i show up at 0700 when they said they opened . . .nope, shop door closed till 8. After 8 I get fussed at by a cyborg with a headset for setting foot inside the shop, i retreat to the lounge, where the cyborg comes to tell me they can’t change any settings. And magnanimously informs me there’s no charge. I refrained from any rude comments. It was difficult. I trespass into the shop to ask the techs if the ecm is fried, and they tell me their generic software can see the settings but not change them. And he tells me the cruise is set to 75 mph, so at least I got something other than an excuse to rant. dammit. Called some more, and Freightliner says if I show up when the old guys are in the shop they can do it. thinking i should just buy a gps to find out how fast i’m going.
  8. Omg. Looks like i might need to do the hokey pokey at each start up, hold my mouth just right, stand on my head and pour water in my . . . Bottom. Thank you, i will continue trying these things before i take it to the shop. i never ever use the clutch at startup, i figured the button is by the door so you can fire it up and go get coffee while it builds air without climbing in. The joys of thinking like a computer programmer.
  9. Thanks, my jakes do work, so might be a bad ecm
  10. Speedometer didn’t work when the speed sensor was removed. This was the only speed sensor the parts guy seemed to know of I think The idle up doesn’t work while truck is moving, i seem to remember trying that. It is a separate switch. i have to use the brakes to get out of my neighborhood, so shouldn’t be that.
  11. Yes, idle up switch works fine, that is what i meant when i stated cruise will rev up engine, my apologies for inexact language.
  12. Ah, thank you. I found a hall effect sensor on the back of the transmission, the plug did not look fully seated. I took it out, will see if i still have a speedo. it looked like there was another sensor on the transmission itself, so maybe that was where the speedo was reading from. It is an electronic speedo, i assume controlled by the ecu, because i could not find any dip switches to calibrate the speedo. will report back after testing. if i have speedo, and no cruise, should be the sensor. If i have no speedo, then i assume it is a programming item.
  13. I found one transmission sensor. . . You saying the cruise might use a wheel sensor? No wabco errors, so i think abs wheel sensors are ok.
  14. Damned thing has never worked. I would appreciate any insights you all have. 1. Clutch switch verified ok and adjusted ok 2. Cruise will rev up engine 3. Brake switch appears to be tied to brake light switch? and it is ok 4. Pto switch verified ok 5. When i connect with blue fire system, it shows cruise switch on at ecu, with speed of 0 (when i’m sitting In the shop) and moving the switches around shows up in the ecu 6. Driving and simultaneously fiddling with blue fire on tablet not a good idea, so haven’t done that yet 7. Peterbilt wiring diagram sucks, i have the one for my vin, it is really basic, i can only see what pin number the cruise is on the ecu, but don’t know how to test that. There is a rumor of a better diagram for units with the modular fuse block, but I don’t have it 8. Had a bad ground on the ecu, fixed it 9. Throttle position sensor was throwing a code, it cleared up after disconnecting and reconnecting it. No open codes. Engine is a 12.7 dd maybe i need to take it to peterbilt and see if the previous company set the highest available cruise speed to zero?
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