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Nuke-E

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  1. $500 for the wiring harness sounded expensive until I saw 19 hours of shop time! Is your truck able to read out a diagnostic code on the dash? Just curious what the first symptoms were. I had a SM code years ago on mine, and the instrument panel gave me the two digit code. I found a service manual published somewhere that had a code description that said the neutral button switch was erratic. I was able to unplug it from the shifter (which also unplugged the button you use to shift to reverse), and finish the trip relying on it shifting to neutral automatically each time I turned the key off. Fortunately, in my case, the problem was the spring under the plastic button cap getting caught on the microswitch.
  2. I've talked about this before--especially on the 2nd gen Volvos, this is a common failure point. Catching the hood hinge, cut zip ties from service work/bumper repair, etc., can either pinch the harness or leave it vulnerable to chafing on the bumper bracket. If it gets loose on the run across the lower edge of the hood, it can also be split in half by the torsion bars that help support the hood. It should be a somewhat regular inspection task to examine that part of the harness. It only takes a small rub to let corrosion get started, and I've seen where more than a foot and a half of wire needed to be replaced by the time the light failed. If you're lucky, the first wire to break is a turn signal, parking light, or temperature sensor wire; if you're really unlucky, the ground wire breaks first and everything attached to the hood goes dark. It was dumb luck the first time I stumbled upon it, but I've lost count of how many times I've seen it since.
  3. If you need a quick fix, you should be able to pry up the release tab on the contact and get it back in place. If not, any auto parts store should have the connector with a pigtail.
  4. Jim, Other places that might cause trouble include the daytime running light module, DRL relay, master light switch, as well as the interrupt switch and dimmer switch. The basic functions (high and low beam, not including flash to pass or DRL) are essentially kept separate left and right starting at the fuse box), which means that one side working doesn't let you rule anything out. The fact that both high beams work does help quite a bit. I'm assuming no power at all at the terminal at the bulb connector. Since high beams work on both sides (I assume fully switched on--flash to pass is a different circuit), you know both circuits (left and right) are getting power from the fuse box. That should also mean that the master lighting switch is OK--if only flash-to-pass works on both sides, hone on on the master lighting switch first. It has two sets of contacts, one for the left and one for the right, each carrying current for high and low beam. From there, the left and right side power heads to the dimmer switch, with the right (passenger) side having a splice along the way to feed the DRL relay coil. Again, if high beams switched fully on work, everything should be ok through that splice to the dimmer switch. Check the output of the dimmer switch--low beam for the driver's side will be terminal A. If there's no power there with low beams on, replace the dimmer switch. Now here's where it gets interesting (confusing might be a better word...). When the master light control is switched off, the DRL relay is not energized, and power passes from 87A to 30 on the DRL relay. Power to 87A comes from the DRL module (which looks almost identical to a normal 5-pin relay, just a little taller). The DRL module, when activated, puts out a reduced voltage on its pin 87A that feeds both low beam filaments. Check to see if the DRLs work (key on, parking brake released, headlight switch off). If you're getting low voltage (i.e. 9V or so) on the passenger side low beam, the relay could be stuck and powering the passenger side from the DRL module with a more convoluted series of failures. The fact that your passenger side low beam seems to be working with the parking brake set suggests that the DRL relay is operating properly. If it were stuck on, you'd have either a working driver's side headlight also (or a problem with the left side circuitry after the DRL module splice SR4 also). If it were stuck off, you wouldn't have a passenger side low beam with the parking brake on. Back to the DRLs--if both DRLs work, you have a problem between the dimmer switch and splice SR4. Either the dimmer switch itself, the connector, or the splice has failed. If still only the passenger side DRL works, the problem lies between SR4 and the bulb. There are 3 connectors between the splice and the bulb, not including the one at the bulb itself. If you're working solo, you could pull the DRL relay or the DRL module and supply power to terminal 87A. Both headlights should come on. If the left side still doesn't, you're back to a problem between SR4 and the bulb. Otherwise, back to the dimmer switch. This all presumes you only have one failure--there are a few scenarios where I could see a failed relay and DRL module or something getting to the behavior you're after, but it's far more likely that it's the dimmer switch or a harness problem. Mark Bruss has the schematics on his site: http://www.dmbruss.com/images/Schematics/V5_PV776_370_99218_2_Headlights_VN_B5_99.pdf http://www.dmbruss.com/images/Schematics/V4_PV776_370_98218_2_Headlights_VN_B2_98.pdf Note that the pinouts for the '99+ DRL module are wrong. The ones in the older diagram are correct for both sets of build dates.
  5. The 453 doesn't have projectors--I was referring only to the older version. Of course, the 453 could be had with a conventional manual, so I suppose it depends on who's driving!
  6. The projector in the earlier (451) Smarts can be upgraded, there's not much to do with the 453s. It's a butyl sealant on the housings, and easily opened up. The biggest downside to a better projector (in my opinion) is how much more you notice the car rocking back and forth with each shift.
  7. Here's the link to the registration page: https://eastcoasthdtrally.com/product/2020-rally-registration/ If you have questions, find a problem, or need help registering, send an e-mail to registration@eastcoasthdtrally.com.
  8. While I didn't get to stick around long enough to enjoy it, I'm sure everyone appreciated a great departure-day breakfast courtesy of you and your better half too!
  9. Milo helped finish off a bag of beef jerky on the drive to Hutch, so we had to actually cook something edible. I had help though, including an expert Oreo smasher borrowed from the Springfield gang, and two of his older . Kinda neat to think about the first time I did this in 2015--4 years later they're quite a bit more capable and independent! For anyone interested, recipes for what we made are posted here. Outside of a little traffic in Kansas City, the trip back east has been smooth sailing. Less than an hour to go tonight. As always, great seeing everyone who made it. Until next time!
  10. Sunday afternoon here. Daylight hours for a change!
  11. I know it's the wrong thread, but stop at the Malt Shoppe in Pagosa Springs. Ask for the biggest ice cream cone they have, and grab a burger if you want a meal. The restaurant just east of there is a nice sit-down place, good for a steak dinner by a fire overlooking the river when power to the town is out. Having been on the slopes at Wolf Creek, I can attest to how much fun it can be in snow. I bought chains (for the car) in town, where it was clear and dry, and was putting them on just a couple of miles east of the 84-160 intersection. In four hours the car was parked, an additional 24" of snow fell. It was a nice way to learn to fall on a snowboard, but a whole lot of work getting back on top of things.
  12. Nuke-E

    Crashes on I 10

    Just to be clear, you drink Dr. Pepper so you're always prepared for fire fighting? 😉 I mean, you wouldn't want to get caught with a case of Dr. Pepper and nothing with which to fight a fire...
  13. I'm slowly remembering why I like the RV. It's a whole lot easier to bring everything than to figure out what to bring and how to fit it in a car. Suit for the wedding, space for Milo, Milo's bed (he's that spoiled), Milo's food, Milo's treats, Milo's leash, stuff for the cooking seminar, tools, parts, spare parts, and hopefully enough room for a change of clothes or two for me.
  14. How many volunteer Smarts do we need to find the rest of the bad spots to drill?
  15. Nuke-E

    HDT sighting

    And despite how the crowd has grown, we're still all pretty recognizable, even from miles or years away! Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing...
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