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GlennWest

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Ok, I have an abs light, no curise and believe they are related. I have, according to access freightliner, a Meritor system which is Wabco. What I have read on Jack's site is some have a place 180 degrees on backing plate for abs sensor. Mine appear to need to pull tire and removed brake drum to get at them. My front axle is still in Houston at shop that singled. So, correct me if wrong, I need to go get sensors and mount on mine. If i do, this not job for me. I can't change those tires.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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You will more than likely need to get the computer re-programed to eliminate one of the rear axles. You have a speed sensor for each location (in your case you had 6). Your truck is only seeing 4 locations and has an error trying to find the missing two locations. If the light has been on since you had it singled, that is the issue. If it has already been re-programed when you had it singled, you will need a computer to see what is going on in the ABS system.

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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Don't need to remove wheel/drum. Hopefully your harness is still intact and just ty-wrapped in the frame. Remove brake inspection cover and the sensor is on the inside of the hub.

"There are No Experts, Do the Math!"

2014 Freightliner Cascadia DD16 600hp  1850ft-lb  18spd  3.31  260"wb
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I was going by what I read on line. I sure hope you right. And me being a welder what that got to do with this? Don't understand. They are tie wrapped to chassis. Will crawl under and see. Wiring a 3 way power assesory in now.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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You took that wrong. I misunderstood why you asked. I was wondering what welding had to do with abs. Sometimes I'm slow to catch on. Very tired. Working hard to get everything right in the limited time I have. Again please don't take offense to what I said. Another day like yesterday I can't take.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Now that I been doing some reading I have discovered my ABS valves are gone along with the sensors for the abandoned axle. So I will be calling shop morrow and see if valves are still there along with sensors. The wires are all there.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Glenn Mine is not reprogrammable. I have had an ABS light on for 7 years. I have had it checked at 3 different places and all said non reprogrammable. There is apparently a $3K part on mine to replace to make the light go out. As for the cruise. Try lifting the brake pedal with your toe and see if it engages. If so it is a pedal adjustment. You could also put a small bungee on it to hold the pedal up. that will let you use the cruise until you can get the pedal adjusted.

 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
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2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
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I will try that. I remember reading about that sometime. Had forgot. Is there a display that lets one know cruise is on like cars/pickups? Also Brad, according to Jack's website there are 2 abs systems, Bendix and Wabco. Bendix is programmable and the Wabco not. But with the Wabco if you hook up abs valves to ecm and install sensors in bottom of the axle you have now, computer is satisfied, abs and everything related works. Mine is the Wabco system.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Glenn,

 

Re the cruse control...when you do the brake pedal / toe lift test, do the clutch pedal too. It has a similar cut out switch as the brake pedal...I learned during a recent adjustment.

 

Jim and Laura

T2000 HDT Conversion

with Moto Garage

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radman, I believe Glenn has an Ultrashift so no clutch pedal.

 

Glenn on our Freightliner, if the cruise switch on the dash is in the on position when we start the truck, we have to flip it off and then back on again for the cruise to then work when we hit the set switch. We have to do this each time we start the truck.

 

Dave

2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch
2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler
Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you!

 

Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/

for much more info on HDT's.

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Glenn,

 

Re the cruse control...when you do the brake pedal / toe lift test, do the clutch pedal too. It has a similar cut out switch as the brake pedal...I learned during a recent adjustment.

 

Jim and Laura

I don't have a clutch pedal. Ultrashift. Thanks though

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Of course get your parts while in TX, but it sure seems like trying out some sort of Ebay type 4S/4M controller first is the way to go. Does Access Freightliner give a part # of your current? Does it say D version or E version? Maybe pull the controller out and give us a pic of what the tag says? Maybe we can find one out there.

 

Do know that the dual sensor per wheel end is a forum fix and not an industry fix. Not that there is anything wrong with that, but when finding a shop to do that you'll probably get a few that look at you sideways in the process. You need to take the drum and brake blocks off to get to the sensor block. Then it still all depends on how it all lines up whether you end up with the spider unbolted and the hub off. There's a 100 different combinations available back there. You may end up $ and time ahead to just buy a new sensor block so you don't have to deal with the disassembly and cutting it off of the old axle. Be real diligent in lining up the new sensor block and be sure to put it in with a new retainer. I can't imagine anything more frustrating than dealing with codes caused by a sensor that doesn't matter!

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Boy, you just opened a can of worms. I was under the impression I was wrong about having to pull wheels off. Be no problem at the shop, they have offered to help me before I even asked. Don't really care about the abs but cruise and jack brake I do. It is a version E according to pn

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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It version E according to pn. Edited other post to show this also. So pull wheels and brakes. I would have to pay shop or go to my property in Huntsville. Have no electricity there though. Don't think Escapees would appreciate me pulling wheels. Also are you saying changing the module may work. I see them on ebay for $3-400.00. also to answer question PN for module is WAB 446 106 205 0. But I don't know what a 4 wheel controller pn would be. List with this module pn is a 4s/4m S446 106 204.https://www.heavytruckparts.net/search.php?qsearch=TRUE&PartID=5915&keywords=FREIGHTLINER Description is same, notes same just 4 wheel.It is about end of page. Or how about this http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Wabco-446-004-603-0-ABS-E-12V-4S-4M-Brake-Control-Module-Freightliner-/152036407969?hash=item2366137aa1:g:d~MAAOSwnipWU74b&vxp=mtr

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Yes, you can just change the module to the correct unit. The one in your first link would be the correct unit by the books:

 

https://www.heavytruckparts.net/detailview.php?partnum=405&vendor=506271&store=1&searchnum=1

 

BUT Problem A is that frame mount, Wabco, and roll stability is a Volvo & Freightliner thing and not in my world at all. So I really don't know what I'm talking about on what you got. Problem B is that you singled a roll stability truck so it isn't as easy as i was first hoping. Its hard to put in words, but it'll probably still need to go to the dealer for a configuration program. I don't know how it is done in the Wabco world. Regardless, the 446 106 204 above is probably worth the $350 gamble.

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yeah 350.00 likely would not pay a shop bill to install that sensor. This is likely what I will try. No nothing about roll stability. First I have heard of this. Is that part of what version e about. I got a hard error display on dash and I figured it was the abs. Also abs light. It will be going to dealership soon to get computer dumped and reset. Might should wait until I change out module abs and get it all done then. Thank you

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Have the car with the squiggly line under it in the dash? Or an ATC light that stays on longer than the ABS light at key on? That's the stability control light for either when it is working or when it is faulted. 446 106 205 says it has RSC and ATC. I suppose a guy could put in a 201-203 version that is basic without the fancy stuff and be fine too? Seems like kind of a shame to lose it though.

 

usr_250311135640_dash-guages.jpg

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Hadn't noticed. Will check out tomorrow. Shows 4 faults on start up and after a minute goes to 1 fault. The air leaks way down and I assumed this causing faults and when air builds up faults goes to 1.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Went out to truck between showers today. Hope clears up tomorrow. Have no ATC light, no RSC light, just ABS. No picture of vehicles whatsoever. Truck only has ABS programmed in. So any 4S/4M version E should work, right?

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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