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jkennell

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  1. Thanks! Still here, gonna take awhile to "catch up" enough a vacation will be possible....
  2. Older IR air tool - unbreakable and works. Unfortunately your truck air will not run one for long. 6yo 18V Dewalt 12" impact - junk. Good for spinning loose nuts off. Don't know why I even keep it around. Everybody I talk to today tells me the Milwaukee Fuel is the go to tools right now. At the price.... I use a breaker bar. For those who remember me from back when.....just dropped in for a visit. Sold the truck a couple years ago, and the last 2 years we spent caring for my elderly mother- she slid deep into dementia. She passed very suddenly a couple weeks ago. Quietly, at home, holding my hand & leaning against my shoulder. Now my wife is already "agitating" for a camper.....
  3. I just replaced the bags on my farm semi, and got them thru Ryder. I agree on the local parts guy though! Run the truck, get the ride to normal height, block the frame to axle, and dump the ride air. I thought it was gonna be a big job, I think I changed all 4 in less than an hour. Took more time to undo the airlines than to replace the bags!
  4. It worked great Rick. Feel your pain on the 6 new tires...of course the LDT its a little easier to tell when the brakes lock up! Only brake "problem" I had was when some idiot in a minivan pulled out of a drive right in front of me. Thankfully empty at the time...I looked back after I got slowed down enough and blue smoke was billowing off the trailer tires. Other then that, nice smooth solid braking empty or loaded...just had to turn the knob to the right pressure! I did blow a tire--no idea why as the load wasn't that great (7500 lb load on a 12K trailer). Goodyear wrangler 235-85-16 Load range E tires, looked new. Properly inflated, 60 mph. Only thing I could guess is It hit something, sidewall blew. I had a spare, but was an old tire. Limped down the road 10 miles to a truck repair place, got a 235-85-16 load range G 14ply trailer tire, 110psi, 4400 lb max, no speed rating I can find. Nice tire for $152! Guy sold it to me said he's putting it on all the heavier trailers as its holding up way better than the E tires...basically a semi trailer tire in a 16"
  5. Thanks! Thats the part I was missing...how to calibrate the pressure sensor.
  6. Wondering if anybody could provide me a scan or photo of the CAL instructions for a MaxBrake? When I sold my HDT, I left the instructions in the truck. Since then, I've scored a used one to install on my farm pickup, I had the hydraulic sensor and everything, just needed to get it on the truck. I had a 250 mile trip to pick up a small tractor, so I knew the original "stupid" controller on the LDT would not cut it. Got the MaxBrake mounted no problems...and it worked as well as on the HDT, just could tell it isn't calibrated just right. (Yes, they really are the best braking controller!) If anybody could share the CAL instructions for calibrating the brake pressure sensor, I'd really appreciate it. EIEIO---the head unit you sold me works great. The problem was apparently the wiring for the air pressure sensor.
  7. My 90yo mom twisted her ankle and couldn't walk easily. I stopped at the local Goodwill and bought a perfectly good basic walker for $5. Why bother going thru the paperwork hastle - cheap, fast, and "recycle" ya know??
  8. You can have multiple charging sources at the same time to a battery bank w/o causing problems. In general, there is no issue with having an alternator, a solar charger, and a generator/Inverter all hooked up to charge the batteries, as long as the regulators in all the charging systems are working correctly. Overcharging/fried batteries is not caused by having lots of charge sources, its caused by having too high of a charging voltage from any source. Very occasionally, interactions between multiple sources may cause issues, but its rare. Usually, the sources all kinda just balance each other until the batteries are fully charged at which point they all stop charging. (Very simplistic view, and yes, fancy hi-cost charge controller systems MAY cause the batteries to last longer....). I have helped design power systems, and its not at all uncommon to have a battery bank hooked up to the solar charge controller and the generator driven chargers at the same time. I say all this not to try to stop you from whatever you feel would improve the system, but rather to suggest that you should check your existing system for proper operation first. If you fried the batteries, I'd strongly recommend checking the charge output of each source (alternator, etc) separately for overvoltage before you fry another set. For instance, if your truck alternator running at 16V (regulator wide open) redoing the charge circuit isn't going to prevent it from overcharging the next set. Others are free to disagree. I know several on here have much deeper understanding then I do of battery banks and all that goes into maintaining them. I just don't want you spending a lot of time and money on a bunch of stuff and then finding that the problem was as above.
  9. Dan:  If you are still interested, please send me a email at kennell.jeff@gmail.com   Your email may be blocking "unknown" addresses.

  10. I don't recommend unplugging things like modules, because I think the likelyhood of causing a connection problem are far higher than a ESD welding issue-- if you follow the above procedure of proper grounding and battery disconnection. Anytime you start messing with plugs, you just multiply the likelyhood of a failure at the connection. Now, I will caution against welding too near a "hall effect" sensor. I don't know if any trucks use them, but they might be used for the TPS on some vehicles. We found out the hard way that welding within 12" of a 'hall effect" sensor can demagnetize the sensing magnet! The arc creates a EMF. Not a ESD issue, unplugging doesn't help!
  11. IF the loader won't lift/rotate at full throttle, that's because the weight exceeds safe limits and if you could lift it, it might break something. On loaders, the hydraulic pressure/ram size/loader frame is designed so that the pressure quits first....and you don't break things. Hopefully. Now, if the motor is killed by simply trying to lift the loader, I'd say the design is underpowered. Of course, what do I know about little girly tractors...
  12. Just the thought of a reverse on a PTO gives me the shivers as a farmer. Just thinking about how many things your could destroy by having it turn backwards.... If you want to reverse something like a post hole auger, then you need to use a hydraulic motor drive and have a big enough tractor to run it.
  13. If you want to grade your lane--don't go with the Bobcat. Nothing beats a 3 pt blade or box scraper for that. I couldn't even imagine trying to do that easily with a Bobcat On the other hand, a small tow behind (NOT 3 pt) box scraper is awesome for the job. I'd seriously consider one over a 3pt blade... for a very simple reason. Any 3 pt equipment, tends to dig or raise based on the fore/aft rock of the tractor...this actually results in a "wavy" surface (picture your tractor going over humps and what the 3 pt blade hung off the end will do.) Skid steer, same thing. A towed box scraper on the other hand, rides between two axles, and tends to "level out" the high spots and fill in the low spots. You can buy them with side to side tilt, or even a blade style with angling blade (think road grader!) I use my box scraper and loader all the time, almost never use the 3 pt blade. Both JD and Kubota have very good small tractors. Kubota definitely wins on the rep, but JD service/parts is unmatched. You may also wish to look at the smaller New Holland tractors, they used to have a pretty nice machine. Just don't plan on using it like a bulldozer and you should be fine. Occasional use is the ticket on these machines. Agree on the backhoe--no need. It will just sit in the shed. I have a large 3pt backhoe for a 100+ hp tractor that I haven't got out in 10+ years. If I want that kind of work done--I call the excavator guy. As far as the PTO on the mower--its mostly common sense. Don't start or stop the mower at full throttle is a big one. Don't try to ram it through heavy wet grass or 3" brush. Slow down. Mow high--don't try to scalp the ground, and be constantly ramming the blades into the dirt. Keep the blades sharp. Pay attention to the instructions about adjustment on the slip clutch of the mower. (This is a big one, since they outlawed the use of asbestos, the clutch disks now "weld" to the plates. I have to take the clutch completely apart on my 8' Bushhog every year and loosen up the plates (they warned me, I didn't listen, I twisted a driveshaft... ) You want a mower wide enough to cover the tires of the tractor. I suggest you get a tractor big enough to handle that big of mower. I know that sounds like circular reasoning, but its really not...If the smallest tractor you are looking at needs a 5' mower to cover the wheels, make sure the tractor has the HP to handle that size of mower.
  14. Jeff

    Can you also send me pictures and info on your hitch. allenfahey@comcast.net

    Thanks!

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