Jump to content

K5RCD

Validated Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Optional Fields

  • Lifetime Member
    No

Recent Profile Visitors

3,215 profile views

K5RCD's Achievements

  1. How do you get the registration renewed online, without a current inspection notation on file in the state computer system? Are you simply sending in your money and foregoing the actual sticker or what? If you aren't getting a new sticker, what's the point, am I missing something here? Thanks.
  2. I have the Bellacorp TPMS system on both my vehicles. You can add more sensors than you will ever need for multi wheel operation. It works very well and is accurate and customer service is second to none. I've had these for several years with no problems, only the occasional battery replacement. I even use them on my boat trailer in salt water with no issues. I highly recommend them. https://www.amazon.com/Bellacorp-Pressure-Monitoring-Sensors-Tractor/dp/B00ZAIKLMY/ref=sr_1_50?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Tire%2BPressure%2BMonitoring%2BSystems%2B(TPMS)&qid=1630626426&s=automotive&sr=1-50&ts_id=2201763011&th=1
  3. Wow! I am amazed at the number of helpful replies I received regarding this subject. I have made a decision and ordered everything I need. I was in a bit of a hurry to get at least the generator on the way, as due to Hurricane Ida, I fear they may soon be in short supply. Only recently has the inventory on most portable generators started to return to normal following the dramatic cold snap suffered in the southern part of our country last February. Here are the decisions I made, and what I bought, and what went into the decision making process: First of all, the input I received led me to start a diligent search on the internet using Google, You Tube, Amazon, and other websites. I really spent a lot of time the last few days researching, as I've been suffering hyperthyroid health problems, which have made me really energetic, but suffering from insomnia, giving me time to consider all the issues involved. I have ordered a Westinghouse i4500 (gasoline only powered) as it is very reasonably priced on Amazon Prime, is in stock, and is RETURNABLE within 30 days. I read a lot of horror stories on the internet about the damaged condition many of them arrived in when shipped by UPS. Mine is already on the way, being shipped and to be delivered by Amazon drivers. I buy a LOT of things from them and they seem to take good care of the merchandise, and are always happy to bring it right into my garage. If it turns out to be a faulty item right off the bat, I can simply have a return label printed on line and request replacement or refund, no muss no fuss. On researching the reliability issues, I found hundreds of good reports, and a number of problem issues. However, after reading between the lines, only 2 issues were of undetermined cause. The others were all caused by the automatic choke malfunctioning, because it was shipped from the factory with the wire disconnected internally. An easy 15 minute fix for that issue is available on line, showing how to easily remove the side panel, loosen the front panel, and plug the connector together. It seems that the issue has now been resolved at the factory level, so if I should happen to receive one of the problematic units, I can easily deal with it. It is true that by all reports, Westinghouse Customer Service is the pits. However, once I can get through to Customer Service and receive a case number, I can take it to any Northern Tool Company location for repair, as they are the designated repair facility. Luckily, there is a Northern Tool location only a few miles from me. There are quite a few identical generators on the market under different branding, but all those except Champion seem to have as bad or worse CS than Westinghouse. Regarding the cost issue, any way I look at it, in order to buy Yamaha or Honda products to meet my needs will cost 2 or 3 times what the Westinghouse costs. Granted, they are probably better built, more reliable and have better customer service, BUT as I am a disabled veteran living on a rather fixed income, that cost difference is the difference between one of the premium quality units sitting in inventory in a warehouse somewhere, and one of potentially lesser quality being in service with ME. As far as the occasional use issue goes, I'm not concerned about the fuel going stale, as I (properly) treat all my stored fuel with Yamaha Fuel Treatment and Conditioner, which easily keeps even ethanol (E10) based fuel sweet and fresh for over 12 months. It is the best stuff on the market, much better in my opinion than Sta-Bil. I have 2 tractors I can burn the stored fuel in after a few months, before it goes stale. One advantage of the gas only Westinghouse unit(and clones) is a built in fuel supply shutoff allowing the carb to be run dry. I also bought an 8000 BTU window A/C unit for cooling my home bedroom, and a couple 12 gauge extension cords to reach my freezer and extra fridge in my garage during any extended summer power outage. That will allow me to hole up in the bedroom during an extended outage, summer or winter. Granted it won't allow for heating or whole house A/C (I have central heat and air in my home), but I can shut off the water, if necessary, in the winter and stay cozy in my bedroom with a couple space heaters, wife and 2 dogs, and a pitcher of vodka martinis. For use in my 30 ft. dual air 50 amp travel trailer which I keep in a campground at Rockport Texas (2 hours drive), I can use the generator to power everything. If power also goes out down there (which it did for several days in February), I can stay down there or bring it home and live in it here until the worst is over. Regarding the true need for an emergency generator, I fear that the future may hold some unpleasant surprises for us and our way of life. Political dissent, terrorism, rioting etc. may be in our future, and while I'm not a "prepper", I do want to be able to comfortably survive a short to medium term emergency such as an internet attack on the power grid. I have figured out and ordered all the wiring etc. that I will need with the generous help of y'all, and want to thank everyone for their input. My total cost for generator, air conditioner, wiring, fuel containers, hoses and supplies, basically everything needed for home and RV use (except the 2 excellent Vornado space heaters I already own) comes to $1600 Inc. tax. That's money well spent for peace of mind for this 75 year old geezer, and some options in case of an emergency. THANKS EVERYBODY!
  4. I am considering purchase of a quiet inverter generator of 3700 watts (4500 peak). After looking on Amazon, I found several brands that appear nearly identical; Westinghouse, Champion, Wen, and Pulsar. Most of the reviews state the terrible customer service on all of them, so I guess that's something to have to live with. Honda is completely out of the question due to cost. The generator will mostly only be used during power outages and on occasional RV road trips. I plan to use it at home to power a window A/C unit and a couple refrigerators in the summer, or a couple 1500 watt space heaters for the bedroom in the winter, again only during power outages. I don't really need a dual fuel setup. I am trying to determine the proper power cord that will be needed. A 15 to 20 ft. cord will be fine. My RV has 50 amp service and dual 15k air conditioners. I am aware that I will only be able to use one A/C at a time, and hope the 4500 watt max will be sufficient to start the A/C. The generators list being equipped with a 120v 30 amp TT-30R outlet. What model cord will I need to buy? I do have a 50 amp to 30 amp dog bone to plug in 30 amp power to the trailer 50 amp input plug when necessary. So, my questions are: Will the generator be able to start and run the A/C, along with a few other low draw items such as a few lights, TV, computer, etc.? Which brands if any, are deemed best from a reliability and customer service point of view? Exactly what power cord will I need? Amazon shows so many different types I am confused. Thanks.
  5. To run on AC only, press the on/off button to ON (depressed). Do not depress GAS button, do not depress auto button. Unit will run on A/C only, with no lights illuminated. To run on GAS only, open gas bottle valve (if not already open) and depress GAS button in addition to ON button. Unit will run on GAS only. No lights will be lit under normal circumstances. (unless gas is empty or not igniting for some reason which will illuminate the CHECK light). To run on AUTO, depress ON button and depress AUTO button. Do not depress GAS button. AUTO light will be illuminated and unit will run on AC and automatically switch over to gas in event of power failure and AUTO light will not be illuminated. It will automatically switch back to AC when power is restored and AUTO light will again be illuminated. CHECK switch will only be illuminated when it won't run on gas for whatever reason (igniter failure, empty bottle etc) or when AC power is out and you try to run it on AC only. Most folks keep their units on AUTO.
  6. After reviewing the Dish Network Website regarding adding an EHD to my 211 Z receiver, I decided to give it a try. The DISH instructions say the hard drive must be between 0.5tb and 2.0tb, and must conform to USB 2.0 standards, and must be externally powered and not rely on the USB to provide power to the unit. Here is my experience: I found the availability of powered EHDs to be outdated technology and now almost non existent. I could only find one unit (MY BOOK) and it was 1 tb and about the size of a paperback book. It seems almost all the EHDs being made today are quite small, only USB powered, and comply with USB 3.0 standards. So, I purchased a Seagate Portable 2 tb USB 3.0 compliant EHD from Amazon SEAGATE PORTABLE  USB 3.0 2tb EHD for about $65. It is not much larger than a credit card. It seems the 3.0 USB is backward compatible with the USB 2.0, and that this unit has sufficient USB power to work with the receiver without an external power source. I just powered down the receiver, (pressed the power button on the remote), plugged the included USB 3.0 cable into the EHD and connected it to the 211 Z USB port, and when I pushed the power button on the receiver to turn it back on, it found the EHD and gave a number to call DISH to have it authorized. There is a one time fee of $40 which I had to agree to (to be added to my next bill). After that, the DISH tech started the process, and the screen started downloading the authorization, and formatting the EHD. If there had been anything already recorded or otherwise entered into the EHD, it would be erased when formatted. It took about 30 minutes or so for the process to complete, and when finished, the EHD was installed and working. As a bonus, I found the Program Guide had been extended from the normal 2 day guide of the 211 Z to a 9 day guide, which makes it much more usable. It also allows scrolling back, pausing etc. on live programming similar to the other DISH receivers. I can't guarantee all the newer USB 3.0 EHDs will work, but they probably will if between 0.5 tb and 2.0 tb, but this Seagate unit worked for me. I''m pretty sure that most non powered USBs will work if plugged into a powered USB hub connected to the 211 Z. if necessary. The only drawback is that as the 211 Z is a single tuner receiver, it cannot record one program while watching another, but I can live with that.
  7. Thanks: I purchased a pair of power pass diplexers and it is working fine.
  8. I recently purchased a new Coachmen Freedom Express trailer. I am trying to figure out how to bring both satellite and cable television into the trailer at the same time, without having to go outside and unhook the coax from one or the other, and switch them around to watch either cable or satellite. The rig will be spending most of the time stationary in a campground at Rockport Texas, with an occasional road trip. I like having both services available. I don't want to drill any holes in the trailer. I have a Dish VIP 211K sat receiver, and a Cable One cable box inside the trailer. Both are connected to the television via separate HDMI. The trailer has the following connections outside: On the road side of the unit is a single input labeled "cable / satellite". That one brings either satellite or cable into the trailer, depending on which is hooked up On the curb side, is a connector labeled "cable TV". As I understand it, that one is for watching TV while sitting outside under the awning. Inside the trailer is a connector in the entertainment center that is wired to the outside input jack on the road side. I have tried it on both satellite and cable and it works on either, but of course only on one or the other, depending on which is connected to that outside connector and whichever box is attached to that inside connector. Also inside is the separate connector for over the air antenna reception with signal amplifier, but only the one inside connector for either cable or satellite. In addition, there is a connector in the bedroom ceiling for mounting a second television. I am unable to see how these cables all interface. Is there some way I can use the jack on the curb side to bring either the sat or cable signal into the trailer? I don't know how or where that coax feeds. I have thought of installing an A/B switch outside and another inside and switching both to cable when I want to watch cable, and to satellite when I want to watch the sat. HOWEVER, I am afraid I will forget to switch one or the other, and end up connecting the cable box to the satellite dish, or vice versa. I am thinking that could damage the cable box and or the satellite receiver or satellite dish. Simple splitters would likely cause the same problem. I hope I have explained this clearly. Any ideas of what I need to do to accomplish this will be appreciated. Help Mr. Wizard !
×
×
  • Create New...