Possibly Buying a HDT Need Opinions

[dirtrunner0519]

Looking at a T2000, with the N14 Cummins and the Eaton 10 speed auto. Truck has never had any issues and has been well maintained it has never had a rebuilt but has the normal service. It does have a new radiator up front, new steer tires, and interior is in excellent shape. The mileage on the rig is around 920k. I will not be using it as a full timer just to tow my desert vehicles.

 

Is there anything i should look for in specific?

I know injectors sometimes have issues, is this true?

How does the automatic transmissions last?

 

Any opinions experience etc would be greatly appreciated. What do you think something like that is worth?

[Darryl&Rita]

Problems inherent to T2's are mostly panel bonding issues. Check the door hinge attachment points on the doors, the door skin to door frame, and the hood seams. They can be repaired, but you can use it when bargaining.

The Cummins will run forever, as long as it has oil and coolant, but by this point, it's getting close to life expectancy. Without a means of testing it's internal condition, I can't say yay or nay.

The Eaton is simply a manual transmission, with the stick replaced by an electric over pneumatic shifter. It, also, is incredibly rugged, and will last many miles. I'd pull an oil sample after a drive, looking for shavings.

 

What it's worth is whatever someone is willing to pay. Off hand, it should be under $15k as a highway rig, or more as a ready to roll RV hauler.

[Chad Heiser]

Ditto above. The biggest issue (outside of drive train) on a T2000 is how the fiberglass and metal body parts are bonded together. It really only is an issue with the doors and mostly shows on the driver door because that is the one that gets used the most. The bond between the fiberglass inner parts and the metal skin weakens over time as the door flexes when it is opened and closed. This causes the doors to become "loose" when they are closed. As the truck runs down the road, and experiences different air pressures from head winds, cross winds, oncoming traffic, etc, the doors will flex open at the top. My drivers door was so bad, the top would flex out about an inch or so under the right conditions (I could stick my fingers out through the gap). I ended up "fixing" the issue by replacing the drivers door on my truck. It still flexes slightly, causing some minor wind noise, but no more open gaps.

 

The other annoying issue I had was in my dash. The dash skeleton that all the dash pieces screw to have nut inserts in them that secure the dash pieces. Much of the plastic around these nut inserts was cracked and loose, causing my dash to rattle and squeak quite a bit. I ultimately replaced the three main skeleton pieces (they weren't cheap). This required tearing the whole dash apart to replace them, but solved all the rattles and squeaks. While it was tedious to do this, it was actually fairly easy to do.

[dirtrunner0519]

What is the life expectancy of the N14 cummins motor. I thought they are good for around million miles or more. Will I have to do an in frame. What does an inframe cost, these days?

[dirtrunner0519]

Should i have them do an oil analysis or something?

[GoldRush]

Yes

[Chad Heiser]

I have 800000+ on my N14 and it is still going strong (knock on wood). The B50 life expectancy of the engine is 1000000 miles. That means 50% of the engines will need a rebuild/overhead/major work by 1000000 miles. It also means 50% won't. It's hard to say how many miles you will get out of a particular drivetrain. An oil analysis is a good start, but you really need a history of analysis to get a idea where the engine is. A Dyno would be another good indication of engine condition.

 

Really, how many miles are you going to put on an RV hauler. With my current annual mileage, it will be another 10 years before I hit 1000000 miles.

[SIBERNUT]

Couple things- I don't know how heavy you plan to pull. The N-14 can be turned up, but if it is the 435 HP version the internals are (according to Cummins) not heavy enough to go over 460 HP. Call Cummins with the ENGINE SNO off the block (1800-diesels) for an answer, and any warranty work performed. You might call KW with the VIN & ask the same thing. Check the mileage on the ECM matches the speedo. I'm happy w/ my autoshift, but don't get in a rush going from F to R (etc) or the boogie man inside gets seriously pissed. Good luck!

[tyates007]

Ditto to all said. Mine has 1.2 million on the chassis so there has been parts to replace. There will always be parts to replace though, that is most the fun. I have a Cat motor but the N14 is a great motor and not as expensive normally for parts as my yellow beast. What year are you looking at? T2000 is a truck all of its own. Parts are often unique to the specific model. I like mine so I say go for it if the price is right and it checks out. They are a truck that shows abuse so if it is in good shape it has more than likely been taken care of.

[jkennell]

AND--there are a million of those engines out there. If yours should fatally die...find a good used motor and drop it in---you just have to catch one before it is shipped to Mexico!

[NoDirectionHome]

You guys are gonna posts pics, aren't you?

[dirtrunner0519]

Anyone installed a bumper style hitch on these mammoths of a vehicle. I am assuming it would have to be custom, there is no off the shelf "draw" hitch i can install.

[DanBree]

I am working with an installer here in MN to install a Buyers 1801050L receiver hitch. I will post pics once the install is completed.

[NoDirectionHome]

 

 

That means 50% of the engines will need a rebuild/overhead/major work by 1000000 miles

That's misleading. It means 50% will make it to 1M miles and 50% won't. At 1M the engine is considered consumed.

[dirtrunner0519]

How do you post pictured. I used to be able to do this.

[DamianF]

Dirt runner, I built a hitch for my '83 KW which has an aluminum frame. Although it's a pintle, it easily can become a receiver style. Here is a link to a pic of it for some ideas. A steel frame would be a lot easier to work with. https://flic.kr/p/brJeeV

[CrazyCooter]

For hitches, have a look here:https://www.curtmfg.com/Category/273/Weld-On%20Trailer%20Hitches

[dan412]

Try this one it is weld on Im thinking of getting this for mine. http://www.etrailer.com/Heavy-Duty-Truck-Hitch/Reese/38124.html

[Pete Kildow]

Are you sure they did not spin new bearings in it? Lots of the high mileage engines. People will put new rod and crank bearings in. Just covering there butts, as its cheap to do. And makes it good for a lot of miles. Some engines did have injector issues. And for some reason the N14 injectors do not like being mixed with old and new ones. Buddy of mine had 2 go down, so he just added 2 new ones. The other ones did not last long. 2 years ago he replaced all of them again. Plus a new Turbo, and his 1.3 million mile motor is still going strong. He did roll in new bearings at 800,000 miles. I think this is the third set of injectors. He pulls heavy loads and still averages 7.9 MPG for the year last year. But he also keeps the boost down low. And drives for the Best MPG.

Pete

[beyerjf]

If the capacities are good enough, 16,000 lb towing, 1600 lb tongue weight, this is what I put on my Argosy. It bolts to the frame and the cross piece gets welded at the side brackets. No welding to the truck frame itself, can be removed. A bargain at $205 made in US by Drawtite.

 

http://www.etrailer.com/Heavy-Duty-Truck-Hitch/Draw-Tite/41990-16.html