MrSeas Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 This a simple filter I use. Just put the fittings you need on each end and your good to go! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014DEV6Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Yes, use "dried" air....but a couple of times with regular undried air is not going to be traumatic. If you are using it just for emergencies don't worry about it. If you are using it routinely then conditioned air is good. I have a filter on my utility compressor in the trailer. The Harbor Freight ones do a decent job. I'll have to look at the air system chart again...I thought that was before the dryer.....but that is from memory and my memory is not that great. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 I believe it is before the dryer. My governor is mounted drivers side behind compressor. Dryer is under cab. I can't see plumbing it from compressor to dryer and back to governor to unload the cimpressor. Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THE TRAILERKING Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 It's a Volvo thing...They route the air supply from the "Dry Tank" to a remotely mounted air governor. Unlike most that have it mounted directly to the compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 My bad....on my Volvo (gen 2) I use the RSV port on the remotely located governor (drivers side firewall) to add shop air. This air goes directly to the air tank without going through the dryer. I should have clarified that in my earlier post. I know Jim has a Volvo (Gen 2) so I was answering his question concerning a "filter" being used when adding air to his governor port. It seems from the Volvo diagrams if you have a Cummins or Detroit engine the "plumbing" is a bit different than on a Volvo motor but you get the same result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Refuzn-To-Grow-Up Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 This a simple filter I use. Just put the fittings you need on each end and your good to go! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014DEV6Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage Scott: Thanks. I will order this dryer. I also needed one for my airbrush. I will be doing some painting with some expensive paint and I need a clean air source. One of my HDT projects is to mount (on the outer left frame rail, just behind the APU) a Viar compressor and tank (removed from my F-550) on the Big Boy just in case I need a back up air supply. The filter will come in handy to clean up the air supply. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 It's actual use is for checking cut in/ cut out right there at the adjustment point (as well as giving a point more accurate than the truck gauges) but it does fill too. It'll always be in the RES line that goes around the dryer. Going in the unloader line doesn't work as it is going to the compressor head on one end and can't flow backwards through the dryer at the other end. Also be sure to use a good quality clip on chuck if you are going clip-on. That little thing is surprisingly hard to find if you mess it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big5er Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 Scrap, I hate to ask dumb questions but wouldn't it be easier to slap a "T" in line before the air dryer with either a quick connect coupler or a schrader valve? That way you are feeding the same way your compressor would feed and not have to worry as much about air quality? Whenever we are trying to fill the tanks on a wreck to check the braking, we always just tie in at the dryer...of course we don't have to "T" in since the engine isn't going to run anyway. MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~ 2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 2014 smart Fortwo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 The seal inside a Schrader melts in that line, but a 1/4" Parker 60 series does work (BH2-60). For permanent install on a truck it is best to drill and tap the side of an existing fitting so you don't make a catch puddle in that discharge line anywhere. They've actually been doing it as a factory option at the compressor outlet in the last few years so a guy could buy the fittings pre-made. I'll have to look up the #'s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 Scrap, I have a Volvo with the Cummins ISX and I have a "schrader" valve mounted in the "hard line" immediately behind my compressor. It is larger than normal size and I can't seem to find the fitting to attach an airline here. Any chance you could point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 Looks like this? If so, a Parker BH2-61 goes on there. it is a pretty nice fitting actually. Buy two cuz they have legs! http://www.zoro.com/parker-coupler-body-14-18-14-in-body-brass-bh2-60/i/G4694864/?utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted September 26, 2015 Report Share Posted September 26, 2015 That could be it! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 I finally looked up the elbow with the tapped hole. G38-1071 at a KW dealer. That's for the MX's Wabco compressor, which I'd assume has the same M27 discharge port if on a Volvo or Cummins as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHIEFWAHO Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Finally got around to chasing and fixing air leaks. Fixed 3 on the firewall bulkhead. Those old brittle O-rings are a PITA to fish out! Then I found the air filter/regulator attached to back of transmission has air constantly coming out the bottom. Any ideas if this can be repaired or must it be replace? Have not removed it yet. It was getting dark and I wasn't sure if parts would fly when taking off. Not my trans but picture represents similar filter/regulator: Picture of similar filter/regulator 1999 Volvo VNL610, Cummins M11 - 350/400 HP, 10 speed Rockwell - 'CHIEF' Custom flatbed with TrailerSaver air hitch. 3 cyl 8000 watt Kubota diesel generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHIEFWAHO Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 I ended up replacing the above mentioned air filter/regulator. The 2 parts places I talked to said they could not find a rebuild kit. I did take the original apart, cleaned it up and put it back on. It made the leaking worse. 1999 Volvo VNL610, Cummins M11 - 350/400 HP, 10 speed Rockwell - 'CHIEF' Custom flatbed with TrailerSaver air hitch. 3 cyl 8000 watt Kubota diesel generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big5er Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 I ended up replacing the above mentioned air filter/regulator. The 2 parts places I talked to said they could not find a rebuild kit. I did take the original apart, cleaned it up and put it back on. It made the leaking worse. LOL That sounds like my kind of luck, Chief. How much time did you invest in trying the rebuild? MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~ 2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 2014 smart Fortwo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHIEFWAHO Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 LOL That sounds like my kind of luck, Chief. How much time did you invest in trying the rebuild? Maybe a half hour or so. Guts are just a few o-rings, plunger type thing and a couple springs. Doesn't look like there is that much to go wrong. Must have overlooked something. The new part was around $60 so new big deal really. 1999 Volvo VNL610, Cummins M11 - 350/400 HP, 10 speed Rockwell - 'CHIEF' Custom flatbed with TrailerSaver air hitch. 3 cyl 8000 watt Kubota diesel generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHIEFWAHO Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Still chasing air leaks. Found one on the dash, front air pressure gauge. Anyone know if the collet will pull out of the back like the other push style fittings. Think just needs a new o-ring. 1999 Volvo VNL610, Cummins M11 - 350/400 HP, 10 speed Rockwell - 'CHIEF' Custom flatbed with TrailerSaver air hitch. 3 cyl 8000 watt Kubota diesel generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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