NA8M Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Folks: I have an eight cylinder gas Ford Class A motorhome, 1995 vintage. I have no idea what type of chassis is under the Damon MH. And there's a problem: The ignition switch will not start the vehicle every time. Here's the drill. Put in the key and rotate the switch past run and into "kick that starter, we're ready to go!" Just nothing except the sound of a fan or two. Silence. So, try it again from the top. Maybe the same result, maybe joy and the sound of the engine starting. Maybe more hushed words of frustration. The "fix-it" guy at the mobile home repair business said, "It's the transmission switch that 'tells' the MH that it's in Park. Move the gear shift to Neutral and it'll work. Did that to me, too." Well, about a third of the time moving into Neutral aligns the stars, other times it just adds to the frustration. Maybe, just maybe, and I'm struggling here, when the MH has been running for a while the switch is less likely to be recalcitrant? Maybe just wishful thinking. This has been going on for 15,000 miles or so. Seems to always, finally, start. But now I jinxed it and the problem will manifest more often? Here's hoping I'm wrong. Should I have posted this in the "Class A" subforum? If so and you're the forum folks you might do me the favor of moving this message? I am terribly sorry for any offense. Anyway, any of you folks have any idea how to fix this frustrating problem? I'm all ears, hopeful, and waiting with crossed fingers. Thanks so much your consideration of my plight. Bill, NA8M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBH Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 It probably has an engine compartment mounted starter solenoid (relay) which would be the first place I would check. If you don't hear a strong click when you turn the key to the start position either the solenoid is bad or it's not getting a signal from the ignition switch. If you can locate the solenoid you can jump it with a pair of channel locks or similar between the two large terminals. If it cranks then you know the starter is good. You will then need a test light or volt meter to see if you're getting 12v to the signal terminal on the solenoid. If you are getting 12v there, replace the solenoid (inexpensive) and pat yourself on the back. If you're not getting 12v to the solenoid you'll have to trace the circuit from the ignition switch to the solenoid to see where you're losing the signal. Hopefully the solenoid is the problem as is common. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 OR the shifter on the steering column ? If so there is a rod going down the column to a neutral or park switch and I suppose your linkage is getting a little loose. Try holding the key in the start position and then wiggle your shifter back and forth a lil bit an see if you find a good spot. If that works let me know and I will explain where and how to get to that switch.....1st buy a six pack. Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 My first thought is the same as RBH. I believe that all Ford F53 chassis have the starter relay that he speaks of. Often they were mounted on the frame that supports the radiator, or at least ours was and I have seen it there on many others. To find it, the best way is to trace the big electric cable from the starter back toward the power source. It is often hidden under some rubber flap or such. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 Sometimes those Ford starter solenoids go bad but you hear (and fell if you find it) a good CLICK which means its getting the 12 volt signal TO SMALL TERMINAL down from the ignition switch and activating BUT ITS INTERNAL CONTATCS ARE BURNED/PITTED so the starter doesn't crank over. However if there's no click whatsoever the solenoid may not be the problem but its NOT getting a 12 volt signal from the switch to its small activation terminal, maybe the switch is bad or maybe there's some sort of a neutral or other type safety switch failure (isn't closing) If you find the solenoid use a small jumper to jump from the battery side of the solenoid to the small activation terminal and see if the solenoid engages or not??? If the solenoid proves to be okay (will crank if activation terminal jumped) then there must be a switch contact problem or a safety or neutral switch etc. Does it help to jiggle the shifter??? If jumping the solenoid makes it click but still no cranking the solenoid may be bad or there's a loose or burned or carboned cable or connection on the starter or battery or a ground cable. Just to be safe check battery posts and cables and grounds On so many Ford solenoids Ive seen where they click in but still no cranking which is due to burned pitted internal contacts but they are relatively cheap and easy to replace You have to start at the solenoid to see if its engaging by trying to jump its coil as described above (if the switch isn't activating it). If its activating but no cranking I suspect the solenoid is bad,,,,,,,,,,, but if its not getting the 12 volt signal to its small activation terminal there may be a switch or a safety or neutral problem. Ive also seen starters that go bad and may crank now n then due to commutator or brush problems MAY BE THE STARTER AT FAULT NOT SOLENOID??? Its a bit scary to direct jump side to side on the big solenoid posts as that's a high current condition and may cause sparks and arcs or accidental shorts BE CAREFUL John T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimalberta Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 This "fix it guy" could very well be correct. If the neutral switch on the steering column is faulty it will do as you describe. It could also be a faulty solenoid and it could also be a faulty starter or a loose wiring connection at any of those points. <p>....JIM and LINDA......2001 American Eagle 40 '.towing a GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 with RZR in the rear. 1999 JEEP Cherokee that we tow as well. IT IS A CONTENTED MAN WHO CAN APPRECIATE THE SCENERY ALONG A DETOUR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NA8M Posted January 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 Thank you for all the great replies, suggestions, and hints. Tomorrow morning I will begin chasing this problem down using your directions. This is so nice of you to lend me a hand. Bill, NA8M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsinc Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Sounds like all the replies are good possibilities. I had a '94 Dolphin on the same F53 chassis. I bought from AZ and I lived in CA. So, had to do the dreaded smog. Smog guy couldnt get the ECM to communicate with his smog machine. Diagnosis-ECM needs to be replaced. $1000+ later, same problem. So, he hooked up his laptop and same problem. He took the doghouse off and with the laptop hooked up, took the rig for a couple drives and witnesses that ECM is in and out to his laptop. His smog machine showed that the 20K miles 460 was running clean and so he FOUND a way to smog it. I pick it up and drive it home. Leave it on the street till after work to have help to put into back yard. When I go to start it to put it into the back yard, no start. Call the guy, hey whats up, it wont start. I'll be over. Brings tools, meters etc. Head scratching commences. I have been through this before. Grabbed a hold of the wiring to the connector going to the back of the fuse panel, I had left the key on, so as I was jiggling it, click-click-click. Humm. I got it started and put it into the yard. I pull the connector apart and find corrosion and compressed spade connectors. After some hours of cleaning and bending out those spade connectors, plug the connector back in and voila, starts right up. Remembered that it had done what you have described with your Damon. But, being an old school mechanic and digging in my heels to the problem, I was bound and determined to find the problem After a couple of sessions, cleaning and bending out, I was satisfied enough to try it on a trip, and another and another. Yep, never had a problem again. BTW-also flushed that DOT 3 brake fluid out of that chassis too, as it was under engineered for the coach. Flushed all the DOT 3 with some DOT 4 and brakes felt brand new. Remember that brake fluid does absorb water and does need to be replaced/flushed periodically. I would have preferred doing this before I had them FAIL on a downhill part of the trip. That also didnt happen again. Lessons learned. Marcel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NA8M Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 You guys are really GREAT!!! I replaced the solenoid (it was tucked up under the "dog house"). The MH fired right up! Thank you, thank you, thank you. While looking for the solenoid I found the brake master cylinder and reservoir. Changing the brake fluid will be on the "to do" list. I consider myself lucky to not have to mess with the switch on the transmission shift lever. So grateful for the assistance. Bill, NA8M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted January 5, 2017 Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Congratulations You are now a certified shade tree mechanic Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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