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RV Armor roof experience?


Big Greg

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We are seriously considering replacing our rubber roof, seems a little early after only 8 1/2 years but we have experienced a couple leaks at the front and back cap. Rather than tape and seal the cap joints we might replace the roof as we like our RV home and plan to keep it for many more years. Kind of a pay me now or pay me more later situation. I have investigated a couple other RV roof systems also.

Does anyone have experience or comments on RV Armor? Greg

http://www.rv-armor.com/?gclid=CJf6jcGR3sYCFQYoaQodspoOsQ

Greg & Judy Bahnmiller
Class of 2007
2014 F350
2007 HitchHiker Champagne

Both sold 2/19, settled in Foley, AL after 12 years on the road

http://bahnmilleradventure.blogspot.com/

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Based upon what you posted, I'd bet that your leak problem now is only an issue of caulking. If you have taken reasonably good care of your EDPM roof, then it should be good for at least another 5 years and probably for 10 or more. There are products such as Eternabond that should eliminate the need for caulking maintenance for a long period, if that is your only issue.

 

At the same time, I too don't care for going up on the roof and so have considered some kind of permanent roof coating. My primary issue with nearly all of the added roof materials is that while they remove the air conditioner and perhaps vent covers, they do not remove the fittings for things like the vents themselves, the plumbing vents, and the TV antenna, along with other things of that sort. Where the rub comes in is that it is not unusual for those items to need to be replaced and I have yet to see any explanation of how that is to be done once you add any of the sprayed on roof materials. It would appear that such items would have to be cut out of the sprayed roofing and then you would have a far larger area to cover with caulking and no seal between the roof and the fixture that is normally done with butyl tape. It has been my experience that the plastic plumbing vent caps become brittle in 10 to 15 years if exposed to sun much and if they break you need to replace them.

I know that the roof installation would cost significantly more if they were to remove everything, but that is exactly what is done if you have a new EDPM roof installed by any competent RV shop. Thus far I have talked with two different spray-on roofing installers and neither was even willing to discuss removing everything. I would love to add that type of covering to our current travel trailer, right over the existing aluminum roof, if only someone would quote me a price to do it in the way I would want it installed.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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Thanks Alie & Jim for the link! I found it quite helpful and a pretty through assessment. A friend of ours had RV Armor roof installed earlier this year and is also pleased with the results. It's unfortunate that the product is new so there are no long term reviews. As the Gadget Man said...at least there are no negative reviews!

 

Kirk, I also believe that 20' of 8" Eternabond and a couple tubes of Dicor sealant will fix my leak. Like you we do not want to have to get up on the roof or have someone else up there. The older we get the less we climb. Over the years we have learned and upgraded our fifth wheel to exactly what we want and will keep it. When we stop towing it will still be a winter home, probably in Gulf Shores, AL.

Because our RV is 8+ years old I expect that the dish, an AC unit or something up there will eventually need replacement so I had the same question to RV Armor and Flex Armor.....what do you do? The answer was the same, cut out the roof coating to gain access, replace whatever then caulk & tape it as a temporary fix. Flex Armor said it was tough stuff and you'd have to work at removing it. In the case of RV Armor, have them return to your location and then reseal the work area. With Flex Armor you'd have to go to their facility to have it resealed..

I did consider a new rubber roof but that would cost as much and probably more and in 8 or 10 years I'd be back where I am today plus the added work & expense of checking it and caulking it.

The only time removing the rubber roof was mentioned by Flex Armor or Roof Armor was to access & repair rotten wood if there was any. Greg

Greg & Judy Bahnmiller
Class of 2007
2014 F350
2007 HitchHiker Champagne

Both sold 2/19, settled in Foley, AL after 12 years on the road

http://bahnmilleradventure.blogspot.com/

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I have scanned a number of the spray applied roofing websites and do not recall finding information or procedures on how they deal with slides. Anyone know?

Later,

J

2012 Landmark, San Antonio

2013 Silverado CC, 3500HD, Duramax, DRW, 4x4

Backup, side and hitch cameras, Tireminder TPMS

 

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I have some slide roof info......Flex Armor ( http://rvroof.com/ ) said they do not normally do slide roofs as their product is 3/16" thick and they are concerned about clearance issues. If asked to they will at $20/sq ft. and 2 additional days for 4 slides.

RV Armor ( http://www.rv-armor.com/?gclid=CJf6jcGR3sYCFQYoaQodspoOsQ ) do slide roofs but not warrant them, They were concerned about not brushing off a slide roof before retracting it. Greg

Greg & Judy Bahnmiller
Class of 2007
2014 F350
2007 HitchHiker Champagne

Both sold 2/19, settled in Foley, AL after 12 years on the road

http://bahnmilleradventure.blogspot.com/

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  • 2 weeks later...

I used to install RV Armor and other RV roof products. It is a VERY good product and if installed carefully, should easily give the owner the peace of mind against roof related issues for as long as the RV is owned by them. Its ability to be installed at your location adds to its benefit. As a LIQUID applied membrane, it provides for a monolithic layer of protection without the need to have to service the overlaid caulking typical on RV roofs. Its UV characteristics are also excellent. I have noticed that sprayed on coatings seem to be thicker but also more rigid. This has, on occasion, allowed cracking on the plywood joints on some roofs. A crack on a roof is not a good thing, so the RV Armor 800% elastomeric ability, provides great protection. Mobile earthquakes that we live in need products that protect in the conditions that they are subjected to. Elasticity is extremely important to that end.

With access to many products, I will choose RV Armor for my roof when that need arises.

 

Just my opinion

Marcel

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I have the same misgivings when it comes to rigidity. I was leaning toward LineX, but can't seem to get any assurance from an installer that it won't crack eventually because of our traveling earthquake. I'm still on the fence.

Fulltiming since 2010

2000 Dutch Star

2009 Saturn Vue

Myrtle Beach, SC

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Thanks for the good input everyone, we have an appointment in September to have our roof coated by RV Armor in Georgia. Greg

 

You stated in your first post that you were "considering replacing our rubber roof". Do they actually remove the rubber roof, or do they cover it like in the pictures? I'm just curious what happens if they cover a rubber roof which is partially detaching.

Everybody wanna hear the truth, but everybody tell a lie.  Everybody wanna go to Heaven, but nobody want to die.  Albert King

 

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Poor choice of words on my part. Rather than replace it and have repeat problems in 8 years with a new rubber roof we decided to use a less expensive and longer term fix. Our original rubber roof isn't detaching and we feel no soft spots. I was told that if there should be any bad wood the rubber roof in that area is removed and the wood replaced. The new roof is a coating that is applied over the rubber roof, you can see the process in their website video. I assume any new wood is coated over the same. I would also assume if the rubber is coming off that area would it would be removed before the coating is applied. For confirmation just call RV Armor, they were very helpful and answered all my questions. Greg

Greg & Judy Bahnmiller
Class of 2007
2014 F350
2007 HitchHiker Champagne

Both sold 2/19, settled in Foley, AL after 12 years on the road

http://bahnmilleradventure.blogspot.com/

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Poor choice of words on my part. Rather than replace it and have repeat problems in 8 years with a new rubber roof we decided to use a less expensive and longer term fix. Our original rubber roof isn't detaching and we feel no soft spots. I was told that if there should be any bad wood the rubber roof in that area is removed and the wood replaced. The new roof is a coating that is applied over the rubber roof, you can see the process in their website video. I assume any new wood is coated over the same. I would also assume if the rubber is coming off that area would it would be removed before the coating is applied. For confirmation just call RV Armor, they were very helpful and answered all my questions. Greg

 

Thanks.

Everybody wanna hear the truth, but everybody tell a lie.  Everybody wanna go to Heaven, but nobody want to die.  Albert King

 

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Any new roof areas(say that it needed new plywood because of damage) would be installed using the same liquid membrane as over the existing EPDM or TPO with the exception that the liquid would be installed using a polyester fabric that would emulate the rubber roof as with the OEM, but much better. The polyester will provide a superior roof to the original but that doesnt mean that the OEM with the RVArmor isnt great on its own.

A side note: The joints on the vents, skylights and front/rear caps are coated with polyester fabric in the liquid membrane over the prepped joints thus provide the monolithic roof. No more cleaning and caulking. Just wash it once a year to remove the environmental elements that appear over time on any roof surface. The roof does a better job of UV protection that the stuff that gets deposited on it as we travel along our paths.

Marcel

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