Jim & Wilma

Smiles and reminds me of a story. Technicians maintaining critical ground support equipment were using “graduated” popsicle sticks to apply and measure application of an adhesive. Use once and throw away the sticky sticks (sorry). Made lots of practical sense to them . . . but not to Quality. Quality went into orbit over use of non-calibrated measuring devices and made quite an issue of it. They argued, with some logic, failure to apply the adhesive to spec could result in system failure with potential for catastrophic consequences. I got unenviable task to address and resolve this but that's another story.

@SuiteSuccessCarl, I had a similar issue years ago. I would often test the switch and measure the current, sometimes taking a few minutes in the process. One of the times I just couldn’t pull the plunger out. Got me curious why it stuck. So I did a forensic exam of the switch. I found the plastic plunger, that separates the spring loaded contacts, had melted into the contacts. My conclusion was the contacts had previously made poor contact and became rather hot, probably glowing. When the plunger was reinserted to separate the contacts, the contacts also melted into the plastic plunger. After that experience,I paid a bit more attention to switch current handling capacity, though that data can be a challenge to find. It was one more reason I changed to electric over hydraulic

Functionally they’re all the same; contact closes when pin is pulled out. If you’ve got hydraulic brakes, it’s pretty low current and any switch should work fine. If electric/magnetic brakes, each wheel is 3 amps and I’d try to check and make sure it’s rated for the amp load. In either case, it’s a good practice to routinely pull the pin to make sure it works. For electric brakes, a clamp on amp meter will tell you if all the magnets are working; total current = 3 amps times # of wheels.

If you can keep your taxable income 150% of poverty level, ACA Marketplace cost will be near zero.

Is the 14.9mm measurement at the base where the wires are?

Measure the width of the wedge base and compare to this chart for bulb size. Probably a T10 or 10mm wide. With the bulb size, I’d go to Amazon or Superbrightled and select an LED 12 volt replacement.

Reduced to $9,000. Selling our 2017 Smart. It’s in very good condition, runs great and has just under 54,000 miles. 2017 is the last year the ICE Smarts were sold in the states. Rear bumper has a removable fixture I made to winch it up our BigBoy ramps. See Marketplace for photos and details.

That’s a good looking Herrin hauler bed. Some beds are made as well, few any better.

I believe Silverleaf application is still available for download. However there’s no interface hardware or technical support. Suspect eBay may be source for interface hardware. https://silverleafelectronics.com/?page_id=764

Had great ride on the Parkway in our Volvo VNL pulling a fifth wheel.. If time allows, consider dry camping at the Columbia Icefield Visitor Center, great view of the Athabaskan glacier.

There will be days where 400 miles in 8 hours is possible. There might also be days where you wait an hour for construction and then escorted by a pilot car for 10 miles at 15 mph.

Phil, would the other brand be Truck Systems Technologies? We use the TST-507 system and it’s consistently worked over the last 8 years. We've had a couple occasions where the tire was losing pressure and we pulled over before the tread separated and any damage occurred. We did have to upgrade to the new display to avoid occasional over 500psi false alarms it was picking up from other systems.

My preference would be to fly there first with down payment in hand and wait a bit to drive up and get it. We have a sister fifth wheel and if that was the size we were looking for, I'd do whatever was necessary to make sure I had first refusal. You'd pay 10 times their asking price for a better constructed new RV. Good luck!

If we were looking today for a quality, well built fifth wheel, this New Horizon would be our first stop. We’d probably throw another $20k into it for solar, batteries, residential refer if possible, new TVs; altogether way less than half price of new.

We were losing prime with cranking taking up to 10 seconds. Injectors and cups are a common cause along with a couple other culprits. Make sure the shop has evidence it’s the injectors, such as bubbles in fuel tank or diesel fuel in oil. We were “lucky” to have a leaking seal in our manual prime pump. Put some grease on the pump shaft a year or so ago to help diagnose it. It stopped the prime leak down and I haven’t done anything else since.