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Loading a CanAm on an HDT


Jack Mayer

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For those of you with CanAm experience (Paul?) what are the special factors to consider win building a body that will take a new CanAm or a NEW smart? I'm concerned with breakover angle, specifically.....I know that ramp storage needs addressing but that is pretty simple if starting "fresh". Also, chock placement is "interesting". Any factors that people can bring to light would be helpful.....

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
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www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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For those of you with CanAm experience (Paul?) what are the special factors to consider win building a body that will take a new CanAm or a NEW smart? I'm concerned with breakover angle, specifically.....I know that ramp storage needs addressing but that is pretty simple if starting "fresh". Also, chock placement is "interesting". Any factors that people can bring to light would be helpful.....

Having the flexibility to transport different vehicles and cargo is the reason I designed my bed system the way I did. To your questions:

  • Ramp storage is integrated, providing a cavity of up to 5"
  • Rail system for quick-remove multi-position wheel chocks, including the center wheel for the Spyder
  • The width of the Smart is 65". The width of the Sypder is almost 61.9". The difference in overall width is easily handled with the 5" wide 1/4" heavy duty steel support beams.
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"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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Brit,

 

Please do not take this wrong but there are two schools of folks relating to bed building. Those that want functionality and don't necessarily care about "cosmetics ". The others want some functionality but care a great deal about cosmetics. Of course, there are also those that want both. Your bed design is genius in my opinion and has the most functionality of any one presently out there but is cosmetically very industrial. I don't pretend to speak for anyone else but if I were going to replace my bed, I would be tempted to come to you and ask if you could build in a little "glitz" because I want both. Is that a direction you have considered?

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Brit,

 

Please do not take this wrong but there are two schools of folks relating to bed building. Those that want functionality and don't necessarily care about "cosmetics ". The others want some functionality but care a great deal about cosmetics. Of course, there are also those that want both. Your bed design is genius in my opinion and has the most functionality of any one presently out there but is cosmetically very industrial. I don't pretend to speak for anyone else but if I were going to replace my bed, I would be tempted to come to you and ask if you could build in a little "glitz" because I want both. Is that a direction you have considered?

 

I completely agree with what you're saying. I absolutely intend for this system to be integrated into a more refined bed. What I have been focusing on thus far in the process is purely the necessity, structure, and weight reduction of the major bed components. These components already have ability for sides, boxes, rear facias, etc. I just haven't gotten to that part yet as the other components warranted 100% attention. I want to make sure the necessary components are up to the task before moving to the cosmetics. Rest assured, there will be ample cosmetics. :D

 

I would also be open to working with any other bed fabricators out there to supply them with the components they need to build a complete bed.

 

Having options is always beneficial!

"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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Jack;

 

If you look into the CanAm Spyder a bit, you very quickly find out that the Spyder and the Smart are nearly identical in width, as measured at the handle bar height. The width of the front track on the Spyder and the Smart are also nearly identical. So far so good. The length is questionable. Center of axle to center of axle is about 70", so that sets your minimum width for support. Outside of tire to outside of tire is about 90". and overall is about 108". (These are not measured dimensions, they're just close enough to get you headed in the right direction) All of these dimensions go out the window if you change vehicle models. Ours is an RT base model. The RS is smaller.

 

You need 3 ramps. The suspension in these things is very soft so while the breakover clearance looks ok sitting still, When I sit my 240 pound butt down, you wind up with about 3 - 3.5" of clearance. The ramps we use for the Smart are 14' long, but were driven to that length mostly by the Spyder. Could have gone a foot or two shorter with just the smart. Also, remember that our bed is quite low, about 38" off the ground. The additional height on your (and most) trucks will adversly affect your breakover angle as well. One of the bigger issues is setting your load/unload system up such that the nose plastic doesn't attempt to dig a trench to China.

 

Send me a PM with your email / cell and I'll give you a call .

 

Paul

Paul & Paula + Daisy the amazing wiggle worm dog...

2001 Volvo 770 Autoshift, Singled, w/ Aluminum Bed - Toy Draggin

2013 395AMP XLR Thunderbolt Toy Hauler

2013 Smart Passion

2012 CanAm Spyder RT

2013 Harley Davidson Street Glide

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For those of you with CanAm experience (Paul?) what are the special factors to consider win building a body that will take a new CanAm or a NEW smart? I'm concerned with breakover angle, specifically.....I know that ramp storage needs addressing but that is pretty simple if starting "fresh". Also, chock placement is "interesting". Any factors that people can bring to light would be helpful.....

 

 

Jack,

I am likely limited to comment in detail about your exact question.......but maybe I can relate in some ways.

Presently the Dollytrolley has the flat bed removed and we have the Morgan 20 ft cargo van installed WITH the curb-side door as well as the roll up back garage door.

Recently I purchased a very nice set of fiberglass 16 ft X 18 inch (3,000 lb cap each) ramps for loading the Suzuki Sammy into the back of the garage and the break-over angle is nill.....but 16 ft long ramps are not for everyone obviously since storage could be a problem for most folks.....I just slide them along side the Sammy on edge and then just strap them to the side of the cargo box and still have 2 ft of aisle to walk along the side of the Sammy.

The curb-side door is another matter.......not only do share the task of loading from the side, but I have the edges of the door opening that I have to avoid hitting as I proceed up the ramps.

Perhaps what I am about to say might be classified as ….....”childern, do not try this at home” for some of the folks that read this post.......others would likely be just fine.

A old “Farmer / Logger trick for loading equipment is to find a loading location that has “variable elevations” that may reduce the ramp to bed break-over angles........

I was a wet-behind the ears kid but Grumps or my uncle Claude would coach me on the proper “elevation” and then I was told to maneuverer the truck and trailer into the proper location for loading whatever onto the trailer.....sometimes a ditch bank came close to the same level as the trailer deck height and so it was a level load with or sometimes without any ramps needed. More often we would find a location where the truck could be elevated on the side opposite of the ramps so that the break-over angle was minimized.

I carry a assortment of dunnage blocks and ramp chalks that allow me to tilt the Dollytrolley toward the ramps and minimize the break-over angle of the smaller 8 ft long ramps that I use to load / unload the Honda quad in front of the Sammy from the curb-side door.

Loading through a curb-side door into a confined cargo box is not for everyone but it works well for us and with some practice you learn to spot curbs and small ditches that allow you to tilt the truck at angles that help with the loading and unloading process.

Just some food for thought.......

 

Drive on........(keep the break-over angle.....small)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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A old “Farmer / Logger trick for loading equipment is to find a loading location that has “variable elevations” that may reduce the ramp to bed break-over angles........

 

Sooooo... who you call'n old?

 

I once parked the truck parallel to a railroad bed in Durango, CO to get my ramps nearly flat. Whatever works......

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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A old “Farmer / Logger trick for loading equipment is to find a loading location that has “variable elevations” that may reduce the ramp to bed break-over angles........

 

Sooooo... who you call'n old?

 

I once parked the truck parallel to a railroad bed in Durango, CO to get my ramps nearly flat. Whatever works......

Rick,

 

We aint..... oLd........we bee GEEZERS.........

 

Drive on.........(old is not a .....age)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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For someone who will use the Spyder exclusively, there are motorcycle lifts available. Rampage is one. At least one HDTer had a Rampage on his truck.

 

http://www.rampagelift.com/

I have an early model of a rampagelift that I am reworking to fit into my drom. My cousin and I have fitted a Harbor freight wheel chock onto the front wheel trolley and will be placing the lift in the truck soon to find out how much front elevation will be required to both fit the motorcycle inside the box, make unloading easier and ensure loading is possible.

 

New the lifts seem quite expensive and after owning one I would not purchase another for a two wheel bike. If I get something that is Three wheel it will be an Elio and that will be much different than a Spyder.

 

I have had little luck in making contact with anyone associated with rampage lift dot com. I hope you have better luck.

 

 

Rod

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

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I have an early model of a rampagelift that I am reworking to fit into my drom. My cousin and I have fitted a Harbor freight wheel chock onto the front wheel trolley and will be placing the lift in the truck soon to find out how much front elevation will be required to both fit the motorcycle inside the box, make unloading easier and ensure loading is possible.

 

New the lifts seem quite expensive and after owning one I would not purchase another for a two wheel bike. If I get something that is Three wheel it will be an Elio and that will be much different than a Spyder.

 

I have had little luck in making contact with anyone associated with rampage lift dot com. I hope you have better luck.

 

 

Rod

 

Sorry to hear you haven't had luck contacting the company. I called 3 times last year when I was having issues. I left a voicemail and the owner called me back. He called a few days later to follow up and make sure my issue was solved.

 

There is a certain truck bed height that requires the front of the lift to be raised for correct operation. I think the magic number is 3'. That is what I recall from my installation manual.

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I approached this issue from the cheaper side. I purchaced 2 6 ft. tri-fold aluminum ramps from Harbor Frieght. The bottom open ends are the right size for square tubing to fit in to join them together. I used 4 lengths of tubing about 3ft long. To reduce the break over angle at the truck bed I cut the tubing joining the Tri-fold ramps and added angle to this connection.. I made up some ramp supports to carry some of the weight. Overall length is about 12.5 feet. Ramp storage is behind the drive wheels attached to the frame. I winch my bike up to load and move the ramp to the other side to drive it off.

Total cost was under $200.00

2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler

Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/

Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN

 

You are not lost if you don't care where you are!!

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The thing that most folks seem to be missing is that the Spyder is NOT (DOT rules aside) a motorcycle. You have two choices, winch it up, or ride it up...and down.

 

Winching is a PITA because of all the plastic shrouding that makes getting hold of anything substantial to attach the cable to difficult. In the Unsprung mode, you still only have about 4-1/2 to 5 inches of clearance. If you use the Discount Ramps length calculator, it will come up with something like 15' - If you winch.

 

If you choose to ride, its a much easier setup, but the breakover clearance drops off to about 3-1/2 inches and the calculated ramp length goes up to almost 18'. Their ramp calculator is based on a 48" deck height. Our deck is 38". Our ramps work fine at 14'. They have a 12 degree angle built in at the mid-point hinge which helps with the breakover angle also. The specific ramps we have are custom ramps (really, only meaning that they are built to order, not off the shelf.) and the order to delivery time is 6 weeks. Really, 6 weeks. Our ramps are just thick/high enough that they will slide under the Smart. Haven't tried the Spyder yet, and I think the rear wheel may cause a problem. Right now, the Spyder is living in the garage.

 

Give some serious thought to how you want to attach the ramps to the bed of the truck. I had a great plan, I laid the upper ramp rest on the bed, marked and installed 2 RIVnuts per ramp, and figured I could run a finger tight 1/2" bolt through the ramp rest and into the RIVnut. Presto! Stable and correctly aligned ramp that won't pop off at an inopportune moment. As these things tend to go, it was not all wine and roses. The ramps were nearly impossible to align straight enough to allow the bolts to be installed at all, much less with your fingers. They would have to be number matched. But, we worked through that, loaded the Smart as a test, applauded the victory, and then realized we could not remove the bolts or the ramps because the rear wheels were sitting on them. More wasted time playing with an aluminum floor jack. Not a good idea. Worked, but not a good idea. Got the car down, Modified the ramps and the bed to use a Pin and Eye system which is not a great look, but isn't completely onerous, and it works like a charm. DW & I can load or unload in 25 to 30 minues, counting strapping and unstrapping.

 

The only issue I see with the whole setup is ramp weight. The hard part is teaching yourself not to pick them up, but rather to "walk" the ramps to where you want them, then spread 'em out, and never pick up more than half the weight at a time.

 

Paul & Paula

 

 

 

 

 

Think about how you want to attach to the truck.

Paul & Paula + Daisy the amazing wiggle worm dog...

2001 Volvo 770 Autoshift, Singled, w/ Aluminum Bed - Toy Draggin

2013 395AMP XLR Thunderbolt Toy Hauler

2013 Smart Passion

2012 CanAm Spyder RT

2013 Harley Davidson Street Glide

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One of the easiest ways I found to load things in and on my truck was to find a loading dock. If needed I would use my ramps to span the distance between. Hardly any worries about angles as there was rarely more than 6 inches difference in heights. Most places I approached were willing to allow use, at least once. After I would provide a gratuity to the person who watched and was then happy the boss made him do it.

 

I was backing the truck to the dock and loading that way. Loading from the side would be possible with only a few docks though.

 

One other way of loading is contacting a tow company with one of their roll back trucks. Depending on how you want to load, you either drive up or back onto the truck with it lowered , they flatten the bed and back to your truck make things level and you drive across. Depending on the tow company it can be expensive, especially if there are clearance issues approaching the truck bed. Used that method a few times when I could not locate a loading dock.

 

Rod

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

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