maggie blair Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 Could someone tell me if the water pump is supposed to make a lot of noise when I turn on the faucet? It sounds rough. Thanks so much! Maggie Maggie Blair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 While I wouldn't say that it is supposed to make noise, doing so is quite normal, especially with the way that many RV builders install them. The pump actually makes very little noise but it does generate vibrations and those vibrations become noise if transmitted via some rigid materials. Your pump is probably connected directly to some semi rigid water lines that transmit the vibrations and amplify them and those lines usually contact wall boards and paneling that then resonates the sound. A sound dampening kit such as this one from Amazon will usually go a long way to solve the problem. Something else that will also help to smooth out the sound and to cause less pump chattering is to install an accumulator which is also available from Amazon. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggie blair Posted June 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 While I wouldn't say that it is supposed to make noise, doing so is quite normal, especially with the way that many RV builders install them. The pump actually makes very little noise but it does generate vibrations and those vibrations become noise if transmitted via some rigid materials. Your pump is probably connected directly to some semi rigid water lines that transmit the vibrations and amplify them and those lines usually contact wall boards and paneling that then resonates the sound. A sound dampening kit such as this one from Amazon will usually go a long way to solve the problem. Something else that will also help to smooth out the sound and to cause less pump chattering is to install an accumulator which is also available from Amazon. Thanks so much. I won't be able to install those myself but I will check into ordering those things and having an RV place install the parts. Thanks again! Maggie Blair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skp51443 Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 You might also look for an RV repair guy that will come to your site to do the install, might prove cheaper. You could also get them to work on any other small problems and services on the same visit and save a bit more. First rule of computer consulting: Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day. Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rexandrose Posted June 3, 2016 Report Share Posted June 3, 2016 Maggie, The accumulator will solve some of the noise as will flexible hoses on each side of the pump. By flexible hoses I'm talking about high pressure hoses like you would find on a washing machine. I used the stainless steel encased ones. I second what Stanley suggested. Also, sometimes RV shops will not install parts you supply or will charge you more to install them. Just saying. Shop around, I am a big supporter of independent mobile RV techs. Rex and Rose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty77_7 Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Pumps.htm You might also check out the Aquajet series, and talk with the all things filters and pumps knowledge of the RV Water Filter Store:)! We don't have easy space for accumulator, and our 2016 mod's lists includes changing over to the 5 chamber and higher water flow Aquajet. This stops the noise, and also allows a shower and kitchen washing at the sometime. And reading the site, you can also augment poor park water pressure... Sure not as inexpensive as the flexible hoses, but also does more. Best of luck to you, Smitty Be safe, have fun, Smitty 04 CC Allure "RooII" - Our "E" ride for life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch_12078 Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Sometimes just adding some slip on foam pipe insulation to the pump piping is enough dampening to make the pump noise tolerable. Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBH Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Sometimes just adding some slip on foam pipe insulation to the pump piping is enough dampening to make the pump noise tolerable. A lot of the time a pex line (the tubing that carries the water) will be lying on a hard surface somewhere and that amplifies the sound. Putting the slip-on foam insulating stuff can really help if this is the case. I used it on every run throughout the trailer. I have also found that isolating the pump instead of screwing it down solid to the surface helps. In my case the pump is attached to a vertical wall and I simply used longer screws to "suspend" the pump so it doesn't touch the wall. Some variation of this could be used on horizontal surfaces. I have ended up with a water pump that is barely noticeable when running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trailertraveler Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Does your pump pulse (start and stop repeatedly) when the faucet is not open very far? If not, you probably have a variable speed pump. If that is the case, an accumulator tank may not do much as its main advantage is to smooth out the flow and prevent a constant speed pump from cycling on and off repeatedly at low flows. If the pump is mounted on the floor, placing a rubber pad (similar to a computer mouse pad) between it and the floor can help reduce vibration noise. As already mentioned, foam pipe insulation is great for reducing the noise created by the vibration of the water pipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsabouttime Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 There is another possibility. My rig already has a small accumulator tank, about a pint size. Recently the pump has not been cycling as it should, rattling on and off rapidly. With an air compressor, I added air to the tank. Now the pump cycles normally and runs smoothly. Lesson learned. Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 There is another possibility. My rig already has a small accumulator tank, about a pint size. Recently the pump has not been cycling as it should, rattling on and off rapidly. With an air compressor, I added air to the tank. Now the pump cycles normally and runs smoothly. Lesson learned. That is a good point if you have an accumulator. All of them come with instructions about how to preload them with air pressure before you turn on the water system. Most call for about 20# of air inside of the tank before any water is put into them but it does vary by the brand and size of accumulator. The pressure tank on our well, which is really just a very large accumulator, states that it should be charged to 2 psi more than what our well pump turns on at. The key is to have the pump start before the accumulator is completely empty but still leave some space for air at the top when the pump turns off. I doubt that Maggi has an accumulator since the model of RV that she has does not come with one. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch_12078 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 A lot of the time a pex line (the tubing that carries the water) will be lying on a hard surface somewhere and that amplifies the sound. Putting the slip-on foam insulating stuff can really help if this is the case. I used it on every run throughout the trailer. I have also found that isolating the pump instead of screwing it down solid to the surface helps. In my case the pump is attached to a vertical wall and I simply used longer screws to "suspend" the pump so it doesn't touch the wall. Some variation of this could be used on horizontal surfaces. I have ended up with a water pump that is barely noticeable when running. A non-RV'ing engineer at Georgie Boy thought the perfect place for the water pump in our Landau was in a cabinet right next to the bed! I pulled the pump and replumbed a little to move the pump down into the wet bay. It's mounted on four layers of foam from a worn out mouse pad, with flexible hose loop connections to the PEX. Now we can barely tell when it's running. I also foam wrapped all of the piping that I could access, especially the long hot water run from the heater to the bathroom. That helps a lot in maintaining the temperature during the mid-shower delay between wetting down and rinsing the soap off during Navy showers. Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappir Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 While I wouldn't say that it is supposed to make noise, doing so is quite normal, especially with the way that many RV builders install them. The pump actually makes very little noise but it does generate vibrations and those vibrations become noise if transmitted via some rigid materials. Your pump is probably connected directly to some semi rigid water lines that transmit the vibrations and amplify them and those lines usually contact wall boards and paneling that then resonates the sound. A sound dampening kit such as this one from Amazon will usually go a long way to solve the problem. Something else that will also help to smooth out the sound and to cause less pump chattering is to install an accumulator which is also available from Amazon. Kirk do you have experience with either of these products? I also note there are larger (2gallon) accumulators for just a few dollars more. If space isn't an issue I would think going with the larger would make sense. Would I be wrong? The only time my pump doesn't cycle every 20 to 30 seconds is when I am taking a shower or flushing the commode. All my other faucets apparently are "water saving" and don't allow enough flow to keep the pump running. The constant pulsing is what bothers me the most. Not to hijack the thread, but I am in a location of High water pressure. Have put my inline reducer in but now have just measly flow from the shower, so the pump is on to provide a more normal flow. Is there a better way to control the pressure, or do they all just diminish the flow? Rod White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors, JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift. 1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022 2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top. 2007 Honda GL 1800 2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Kirk do you have experience with either of these products? I also note there are larger (2gallon) accumulators for just a few dollars more. If space isn't an issue I would think going with the larger would make sense. Would I be wrong? I have done both but when I did so the sound kit was not around so I made up my own hoses. I just searched to find some of those sold for connecting plumbing to fixtures which were the proper thread and used those. The kit would make it far less difficult. On the accumulator, that is the same one as I have used an while I had good results, I do agree that a larger one would be even better. Space was the reason that I chose the small one and I just mounted it to the wall next to the water pump. I then connected it to the pump discharge with a flexible hose and then to the water supply line from the pump with another. Is there a better way to control the pressure, or do they all just diminish the flow? The problem that you are having is one of volume and the lowest priced RV pressure regulators have a very small water passage and so cause a restriction in flow when demand is high, such as a shower. What you need is one of the high volume regulators with a larger water passage. Pretty much any of the regulators from this link will do the job and there are now high volume regulators available that are not adjustable. When I first began to use one, the only such regulators were "whole house" regulators from plumbing supply companies but today there are alternatives. On our fulltime motorhome, I used one like the third one down but today on our part-time travel trailer we use the on at the top of this list. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skp51443 Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 We had both a large and small accumulator on our fiver. The small one was hooked directly to the pump outlet where it could absorb most of the water flow pulsation caused by the pump and followed by a loop of flexible hose to absorb as much vibration as possible. It did an excellent job of that but as others have said it did not make a big difference in the pump cycles as it only provided about a cup of water before the pump came on again. We remounted the pump on an old typewriter pad (remember them?) but today you'd probably be good with a knee-pad or other water-proof (NOT open foam) type pad as a cushion. We added a large accumulator in the basement to reduce pump cycling, no need for it to be close to the pump for that purpose. It provided about 1/2 gallon of water before the pump kicked on and really cut down on cycling the pump motor on and off. First rule of computer consulting: Sell a customer a Linux computer and you'll eat for a day. Sell a customer a Windows computer and you'll eat for a lifetime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappir Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Thank you gentlemen for your quick replies and answers. Rod White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors, JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift. 1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022 2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top. 2007 Honda GL 1800 2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch_12078 Posted June 6, 2016 Report Share Posted June 6, 2016 Instead of the Camco hose kit, I used two 40" shower hoses to make my isolation loops. The hoses are much more flexible than the Camco hoses, and the cost is about the same. Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscans Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 I had a 2005 Georgieboy that had the same problem. finally annoyed me enough that I tackled it. after tracing the sound, it appeared to be coming from under the galley sink, not near the pump area. Turns out that one of the water lines had been pushed into contact with the cabinet. Simply pushed the tube away from the wall and the noise went away. happy, easy fix. Happy Trails, Florida Mike EXPERTS AREN'T!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggie blair Posted June 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2016 Thanks so much for everybody's responses. Everyone on this site is so helpful and I'm so grateful for that. Maggie Blair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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