KodiakJack Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Adding the twist-on dump valve I posted about a while back completely eliminated my surprises (symptoms) but didn’t deal with the problem (disease). Unfortunately the disease raised its ugly head this morning as I could not get one of the grey tank dump valves open. It’s only been a week since I dumbed so I still have a little bit of slack before I need to do something. Changing the valve is the easy part its getting at it that has me on edge. Since I have experience getting up under the underbelly and chasing down and fixing a cracked ABS fitting I would like to come with a plan so that I never have to do it again. Still some variables to be determined such as the length of the cable to the valves. I say valves because if I am up and under again I want to make all of the dump valves as good as they can be. Two of them have felt pretty spongy, for lack of better term, for some time. Speaking of which I just looked at Camping World online and saw 144-inch replacement cables for dumb valves (sounds like accident waiting to happen to me). I like to think that my problem child isn’t that long, but on second thought if it’s at the tank it could be. Bottom line how do I get rid of these darn cable controlled dump valve and install something more positive (reliable would be nice too)? Appreciate any helpful comments you can give because I will have to start taking down underbelly within the next few days. Later, J 2012 Landmark, San Antonio 2013 Silverado CC, 3500HD, Duramax, DRW, 4x4 Backup, side and hitch cameras, Tireminder TPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 I rep limbed so I have external valves on each tank. Internal valves are still there, just leave them open. Ron C. 2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3 2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenp Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Last fiver we had was equipped with two gray tanks. Both had the cable operated dump valves. Black tank had a solid rod connected valve. One of the gray valves was easy to replace with a directly connected rod nut the other (rear) was not. I elected to install an electric valve. Of course I had to open the underbelly for access but when I closed it back up I installed an access door for future maintenance and/or replacement. Seemed to work well the remainder of the time we had the fiver - about five years. Lenp USN Retired 2002 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom 2012 F150 4x4 2018 Lincoln MKX 2019 HD Ultra Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NH2 Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 Like Lenp, I went with this valve rather than deal with that long cable again. The electric valve has been trouble-free for 6 years.No, it's not an easy task but I did a GREAT job of flushing before I began. Once you open the underbelly, I'm sure you'll be able to open the valve directly rather than using the cable. Mark Mark & Sue---SKP#86611 '06 International 4400LoPro DT570 310hp 950ft-lbs.-Allison--3.70 gears '05 36' Teton Liberty '12 BMW F650 twin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 I have the drainmaster http://drainmaster.com/site/products/full-view/166 which works real well be sure to coat the entire surface of gate with the grease provided ( both sides ) I can not visualize trying to keep 144" of cable working ! You would also need the wiring kit and while ordering order xtra grease for lubricating your manual no surprise valve. Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted January 5, 2016 Report Share Posted January 5, 2016 If I have a problem with mine, I will probably go to aircraft operating cables. MUCH more robust, sheathed and probably able to be lubricated. 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KodiakJack Posted January 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Finally got enough underbelly off to expose the two spongy valves. With the DW handling the cable handle and me down under with a pair of pliers we managed to get the stuck gray valve open. Hurry! I plan to replace both with electric versions but as yet haven't decided which to use due to the piping's configuration and the very tight location. Both of these waste valves are installed (more or less) horizontally and I wonder if this has something to due their degradation. Anyway thanks for the recommendations and comments above. Which leads me to to the following. Drainmaster mentions in one of their informational videos that their valves should be installed vertically. Makes since but will be hard to do in my case as they are a bit over 10" tall. So has anyone installed or had installed one of these (type) valves to actuate horizontally? Later, J 2012 Landmark, San Antonio 2013 Silverado CC, 3500HD, Duramax, DRW, 4x4 Backup, side and hitch cameras, Tireminder TPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 I had Drainmaster valves on our Carrilite that were installed horizontal and did not last. The gear system stripped out on the black tank valve. If there is room for them to be verticle that is the preferred method. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted January 8, 2016 Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 I had Drainmaster valves on our Carrilite that were installed horizontal and did not last. The gear system stripped out on the black tank valve. If there is room for them to be verticle that is the preferred method. It's strange that the gears stripped out because they have a clutch that slips when they hit the end, Mine is just slightly raised from horizontal being as there is no vertical room on mine either. The secret is that grease that comes with them be sure to coat both sides of the gate completely Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin H Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 I had Drainmaster valves on our Carrilite that were installed horizontal and did not last. The gear system stripped out on the black tank valve. If there is room for them to be verticle that is the preferred method. It's strange that the gears stripped out because they have a clutch that slips when they hit the end, Mine is just slightly raised from horizontal being as there is no vertical room on mine either. The secret is that grease that comes with them be sure to coat both sides of the gate completely It depends on how old your Drainmasters are. They used to use plastic gears which would strip like Alie & Jim experienced. Drainmaster has since gone to steel gears (SS I think??). I don't know about a clutch. I talked with DM and they told me to to make sure you do not press Open very long as it will blow the fuse, which I did multiple times The richest are not those who have the most, but those who need the least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Ours were 2009 vintage. We had a rocker switch, dual position, that you pressed to either open or close. Quick press to open, same to close. If our tanks filled to close to capacity the valves would "stick" and not open. You could hear what I assumed was a clutch mechanism but found out later it was in the gear box. About the 3-4 time I had to drop the bottom cover and manually open the valves with a 1/8" allen wrench in a wet rv site, I swapped the valves out. The gear housing was plastic that was sealed together. No way to easily open and see what exactly the problem was. But any pressure against the gate valve and it would not slide. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 re: your cables. Mine would get the spongy feel, then fail to close completely. I gave each a dose of Liquid Wrench ever few days, operate them several times, and within a week they began operating properly again. Now I dose them weekly, and the cables work as they should. Electric valves were suggested by Camping World, but they also said electric valves seem to fail at the most inopportune time, and if one fails when shut it must be opened manually. For my MH that would be quite difficult just removing panels to even see the valves while on the road. 2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KodiakJack Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I wound up installing Barker Auto Drains (http://www.barkermfg.com/auto-drains.html) for all three tanks. I appreciate folks taking the time to make recommendations but those being available only in 3-inch made for way too much work for my piping configuration. I came to like the simplicity of the auto drain which is not a valve at all but an "actuator" for standard knife valves. I like the idea of being able to disconnect the actuator to operate the valve manually if needed. The blinking open indicator light at the operating switch is also nice. If they hold up I'll let you know and if they don't I'll let you know that too. Later, J 2012 Landmark, San Antonio 2013 Silverado CC, 3500HD, Duramax, DRW, 4x4 Backup, side and hitch cameras, Tireminder TPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I wound up installing Barker Auto Drains (http://www.barkermfg.com/auto-drains.html) for all three tanks. I appreciate folks taking the time to make recommendations but those being available only in 3-inch made for way too much work for my piping configuration. I came to like the simplicity of the auto drain which is not a valve at all but an "actuator" for standard knife valves. I like the idea of being able to disconnect the actuator to operate the valve manually if needed. The blinking open indicator light at the operating switch is also nice. If they hold up I'll let you know and if they don't I'll let you know that too. Later, J Interesting let us know how well they work. And good luck Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewilso Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 I like the Baker concept....but is the 7 second operating time to slow ? Dave W. KE5GOH Stuck in the 70's --- In E. Texas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KodiakJack Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Just timed the valves operating several times. 3" valve opened/closed in 3 seconds. 1-1/2" valves opened/closed in 1.5 seconds. Thought they were way faster than advertised but this confirms it. Later, J 2012 Landmark, San Antonio 2013 Silverado CC, 3500HD, Duramax, DRW, 4x4 Backup, side and hitch cameras, Tireminder TPMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.