Shallow Draft Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Does any one know if the rear shocks can be changed on a gen 2 with out removing the back wheels? 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 I am not sure about a gen 2. I would not think that there is to much difference between gen 1 to gen 2 at the rear of the truck. I have a gen 1 truck. When I changed my rear shocks, I removed an access plate and the hitch. That gave me plenty of room to work in. The biggest problem for me was the bolts holding the shocks. My best advice would be to soak the bolts with some good penetrating oil. The longer the better. Be careful of the top shock bolt. My 2 top bolts twisted off. That will start an all new problem. Also look at your air bags. My air bags had some serve weather checking. They also got changed out. I hope this helps. My truck is a factory single. Good luck with your project, Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC and Angie Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 I did mine with the bed and wheels on. And yes I had to flame cut one bolt off. Use penetrating oil first. 2009 Volvo 780. D-16 500hp 1850 torque with a Herrin hauler bed. 2015 Continental Coach 2008 650cc Suzuki Bergman 2013 Mustang GT 500 convertible 2014 Smartcar convertible WWW.Hollyfab.com. (Metal Fabrication Company) Jamesc@hollyfab.com (preferred contact method) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 I watched as the dealer changed shocks on a fellow forum members Gen 2. Bed was on, tech took wheels off and had to grind off one bolt. Lots of sparks from under the truck. Cost to change the shocks was significant also, greater than $500. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Lots of penetrating oil will be used prior to start. When I did the front, I did have zip disk one bolt. Always a bigger job than it looks. thanks for the advice 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabbie Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Ok I just crawled out from under my 2009 mean machine. Funny you ask about rear shocks. I am in the process of changing all my shocks out. I just did the rear right front axle So yes you can do this yourself Tools penetrating oil air tools,minimum 1/2 impact gun 15/16 sockets, beaker bar and 15/16 wrenches Lots of different size extensions ,used in front and back Torches may be needed... you can use this to cut the shock off or burn the dang thing down As long as the bolt is not rusted to the shock bushing you can do both the front and the back without the torch. I had a front one I had to cut out so far. I could not break the other bolts loose with my 1/2 impact gun I had to use a breaker bar and a long pipe to break them loose then go to the impact gun. Also used my 15/16 wrench with a bottle jack to break a couple loose. If they are seized work on the Nut side and break that loose first then use the impact gun. Oh how can I forget....BEER!!!!!! Ok I am one of those fellows that say ..hey if it doesn't come off or fit right use a bigger hammer or a grinder. I am no Henry ...AKA phoeix2013 !!!! But again to answer your question yes you can get at everything you need to get at to do a DIY rear shock change out Flapper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 LOL Sounds like one of my usual afternoon projects that turns into a career. 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dollytrolley Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Shallow, Retirement seems to be a "career" without any days off........anyhow as other have said it seems that shock mt bolts love to rust in place and then when you try to get them off they love to break off so...........I have had good luck spraying the nuts with pent-oil for a day then taking a torch and QUICKLY heat the nut without catching the shock rubber on fire then when you shut off the torch spraying the nut cool again with pent-oil (be careful to not catch the area on fire). The heat draws the pent-oil inti the threads as the nut cools. While the nut is still warm take a impact gun and try backing the nut off and on and off until the nut will be lose enough to come off.........hopefully....... Good luck, Best regards, Dollytrolley 97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabbie Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 If you do use a torch remember the nuts are nylock so you will melt the nylon. Replace the nuts with new ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted May 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2015 all good advice!!! thanks. I am sure as per history 3 of the 4 bolts will be easy and the last will turn into a religious experience!! 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolpsaddles Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 Got mine done, had the nuts come lose but the bolt was rusted into the rubber bushings. I ended up taking the shock mount off the frame with the shock still attached and using a zip blade to cut the shock apart.The one thing I did not do and should have was coat the bolts with never seize so it will be esker the next time, well at least for the next guy as they will likely last my time with the milage I do. 2005 Western Star, MDE 4000 ,singled mid, 12' deck with Smart CarBison Stratus 3 horse with 16' short wall 12' slide out http://www.spottedhorsegallery.com/http://www.campingandhorses.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 More and more I am looking forward to this afternoon project. I think I will start spraying penetrating oil for a couple of weeks. 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappir Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 I did mine several years ago in a sandy overflow lot in South Florida. Started off with WD 40 and then went with something JW recommended. The propellant instantly cools the nut and if you keep it off the threads the change in temperature might break loose some of the stuff (or maybe it's the other way around.) I had a regular breaker bar and a 3 ft pipe, toughest part was the sand and getting good footing. Had a few knuckle scrapes in the end, but got them all done before the sun cleared the trees and made it unbearably hot. No grinding or fire required on my 2001 don't know when they had been changed before. Truck is at 870000 about now. Rod PS, I did spray WD 40 for several days before starting early one morning. White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors, JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift. 1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022 2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top. 2007 Honda GL 1800 2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 There is a a medical spray freezing product in a regular sized spray can. You could insulate the nut with a couple of layers of duct tape and spray the bolt or male threaded part with the spray freeze. This one comes with a straw for better directional control to avoid collateral contact. https://www.ncmedical.com/item_576.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Are new bolts and nuts included in the box when you buy new shocks? I know that in the car and light duty truck world, you reuse the factory bolts, or you buy new from your manufacturer dealer of choice. Before I go cutting bolts out, It would be nice to have some replacements on hand. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted May 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Are new bolts and nuts included in the box when you buy new shocks? I know that in the car and light duty truck world, you reuse the factory bolts, or you buy new from your manufacturer dealer of choice. Before I go cutting bolts out, It would be nice to have some replacements on hand. No new bolts or nuts. all extra cost. They are not cheap either. Best if they can be re-used 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray.service Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 No new bolts or nuts. all extra cost. They are not cheap either. Best if they can be re-used Metric Ray & Deb - Shelbi the Aussie & Lexington the cat2004 Volvo 630 500HP ISX "Bertha D" - 10 Speed-MaxBrake -ET hitch.SOLD2009 Designer 35RLSA SOLDFulltiming since '07 - stopped 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabbie Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 I don't care what you all think but no matter how much wd40 or what ever you use is not going to penetrate to the rusted bushing and bolt. The nut will come off, you will fight it all the way off since it is a nylock nut,(self locking nut) you fight it on and fight it off. The rusted on bushing and bolt are welded together, the rubber bushing will act like a water proof seal. Penetrating oils just cannot get through to the 1 and 1/2 inch steel bushing. I had to cut 2 of mine off with a torch, then peel the rubber off reheat the steel bushing cherry red. (Both were the bottom bolts on mine.)Then I used my impact gun and a pipe wrench. The pipe wrench to to hold the bushing in place while using the air gun to spin out the bolt. All this while working in between the two rear axles with tire on. Now I never looked at taking the shock bracket off. Nice idea may use that on the back axle shocks, I still have those 2 to do. No new bolts came with my shocks either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stolpsaddles Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 My lower bolts came out ok but the removal of the top shock mounts worked well and then a zip blade to cut the shock and rubber apart. Another trick to get a bolt out of rubber bushings is to us an air chisel and drive the bolt out, make site to leave the nut partly on to protect the threads. This works good sometimes but it did not work on all the shock bolts. I ground down my round chisel point to make a driver out of it for this purpose. 2005 Western Star, MDE 4000 ,singled mid, 12' deck with Smart CarBison Stratus 3 horse with 16' short wall 12' slide out http://www.spottedhorsegallery.com/http://www.campingandhorses.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted May 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 I have been spraying PB Baster every couple of days and I will do that until I get motivated to tackle this project. Hoping it goes well. When I changed the front shocks last year I had one top bolt that I did have to cut apart. It was welded solid and no amount of force or penetrating oil would free it. 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted May 25, 2015 Report Share Posted May 25, 2015 If you have room, use two opposing hammers on the nuts. Swing one and hold the other against the nut, on the flats. The shock will expand the nuts ever so slightly, breaking the bond of rust and allow the penetrating oil to do it's job. A fool called a "nut cracker" may also be helpful. http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-D-TOOLS-PARTS-NUTCRACKER-BREAKER-MODEL-715-PARTS-UNIT-/351370680146 KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted August 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2015 Just finished the rear shock install. the top bolts required a long cheater bar but did come off. I ended up cutting the lower shock bolts to get them out. The last person to change shocks obviously did it with the wheels off as the bolts were installed from the outside with the nut on the inside. I would have had to remove the wheels to have enough room to get the bolt out. It was cheaper [under $10.00] to get new grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers than a trip to the shop to have the wheels taken off. Two hack saw blades and an a little effort was better than an hours labour [at least] at a shop. Next will be the cab shocks. 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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