MsChrissi Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Now that we have the cut-though and bellows between the cab and the MH interior done there is considerably more noise in the cab coming from the back, mostly because of the unfinished MH interior. What we have become aware of is drive train noise. No way for the average HDT user to relate to this unless they also have a MH conversion not just a tractor. While the system is under load the noise is mostly stable engine noise, road noise and some stable drivetrain noise. When you back off it not much engine noise but noise is worse from mid/rear drive train. So we're trying to determine next step hoping it is u-joint(s) not differential noise. It may be this is all normal. Any hints or experience? How much trouble to replace these u-joints? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Could you describe the noise you hear on acceleration and declaration? "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MsChrissi Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Lets just say there is play, lost motion, in the drive train between the rear of the transmission and the first axel. The noise under load is what I would expect, the noise while coasting is a bit louder and maybe not as regular, I attribute this to the play in the system. Sorry it's been months since we were last out so I cannot sing you the tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beyerjf Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 Replacing U joints are a common procedure. If this is a long wheelbase MH chassis, I am guessing there are 1 or 2 support bearings because of the length of the driveshaft. The air suspension level is also critical to keep the U-joints in a straight line as much as possible. Any competent driveline shop would know how to check the driveline for problems. Chances are it is the driveshaft, not the rear differentials. At least it is cheaper to eliminate that as a possibility before you indict the rears. Jeff Beyer temporarily retired from Trailer Transit 2000 Freightliner Argosy Cabover 2008 Work and Play 34FK Homebase NW Indiana, no longer full time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 Two person check- have one person watch the input yoke of the front drive axle, other grab driveshaft where it comes out of trans. Person # 2 twist driveshaft both ways & see if any "slop" & where it is 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MsChrissi Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Thanks, we'll it a twist! Here's Red Flyer with her new aluminum diamond plate fairings, note the passenger step is folded up... automatic =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 That is the quality of work I've come to expect from the two of you, Chrissi. Looks great!! How are you actuating the step? Or is it an insert with a cover that rises? BTW, how are the sides holding up? You used Sikaflex if I recall right. Was it 221, or something else? Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Any pictures of it opened up with the roof top deck? Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Looks awesome girls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 I agree--wow. SHINY! Ever thought about a tasteful airbrushed scene on the side...you know, Mountains, Grand Canyon, personal logo.... As far as your noise...I suggest a couple things: Can you hear a noticable clunk when moving between accel and decel? Take your truck to a large parking lot and drive slow while applying/releasing power. If it clunks, probably a u-joint. It's HARD to pinpoint noise that only happens when you drive, but here is one more thought--what causes noise often will also cause heat. Drive for 15-30 minutes, then park and chock the truck. Crawl under and use a temp gun or feel (CAREFULLY!) the different u-joints, carrier bearings, rear ends, etc. If one is much warmer than the others, most likely that is a problem point. Good luck! Of course, trannys and rear ends do just make noise. I have a farm tractor with a Fuller 10 speed in it--at 2600 RPM in 5th gear it howls so bad you need earplugs--pull it back to 2400 rpm and quiets right down. Guess where you need to run it to pull the disk, etc.... No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MsChrissi Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 That is the quality of work I've come to expect from the two of you, Chrissi. Looks great!! How are you actuating the step? Or is it an insert with a cover that rises? BTW, how are the sides holding up? You used Sikaflex if I recall right. Was it 221, or something else? Thanks Jack, a big compliment coming from you! The step is actuated by a 4" 35 lbs throw linear actuator with built in switches from Firgelli Automation. Takes 2 seconds. It is hooked up to the door actuated light circuit via relays. There is a small relay box with a disable switch behind the seat next to the door. You can also override it with the switch for the courtesy light down by your foot on the door. The step is 8" wide extended from the fairing and gives solid footing. It is all attached to a steel subframe behind the fairing. We made a huge mistake with the siding, it may be the best gelcoated siding available, it retailed for about $99 a running foot new, we got it all for about $600. Fiberglass siding should be laminated to 1/4" plywood. This stuff heats and expands, shrinks and contracts and looks terrible depending on the time of day. It is stuck in place with Sikaflex 252 that stuff really sticks, except to stainless (all the front of the box that would be hard to maintain is covered in stainless steel, sikaflex will not stick to it, ask me how I know this) Randi would go with 1/16" 6061 at this point instead for the siding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Randi would go with 1/16" 6061 at this point instead for the siding. Thanks for the feedback on the siding project. That is a bummer, for sure. I think you can buy fiberglass already laminated to 1/8 backer in small quantities. I know you can buy it in bigger quantities since it is used to build RV laminations. You might look into that. That actuator is trick. I may come back at you offline on a project involving that. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MsChrissi Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Any pictures of it opened up with the roof top deck? Here you go: http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=119303 bunch of good pictures Last year at Oshkosh we added 400W of solar on a knock down rack mount: http://www.cozygirrrl.com/redflyer/RedFlyerNightsm.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MsChrissi Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 I agree--wow. SHINY! Ever thought about a tasteful airbrushed scene on the side...you know, Mountains, Grand Canyon, personal logo.... As far as your noise...I suggest a couple things: Can you hear a noticable clunk when moving between accel and decel? Take your truck to a large parking lot and drive slow while applying/releasing power. If it clunks, probably a u-joint. It's HARD to pinpoint noise that only happens when you drive, but here is one more thought--what causes noise often will also cause heat. Drive for 15-30 minutes, then park and chock the truck. Crawl under and use a temp gun or feel (CAREFULLY!) the different u-joints, carrier bearings, rear ends, etc. If one is much warmer than the others, most likely that is a problem point. Good luck! Of course, trannys and rear ends do just make noise. I have a farm tractor with a Fuller 10 speed in it--at 2600 RPM in 5th gear it howls so bad you need earplugs--pull it back to 2400 rpm and quiets right down. Guess where you need to run it to pull the disk, etc.... Thanks for the input. We designed this rig to be serviced so the floor section down the middle of the MH is all removable, just put the slideout out and you can pop down there and fuss with it. So our next thing will be to twist it and put a dial gauge on it looking for lost motion. A good starting point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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